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Lockleaf last won the day on March 18

Lockleaf had the most liked content!

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About Lockleaf

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Tiny Mtn Town, Utah
  • Cars
    '71 510 Goon, '90 240SX, '85 720, '69 Roadster, '06 Saabaru 92x Aero, '06 Saab Trollblazer 97x
  • Occupation
    Corporate Lawyer

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  1. I have a z22 in my 510. I cut up the oil pan to get proper clearance. Annoying but doable. If you are curious to see what i did its in my "half pint" build thread, linked in my signature. If you are trying to build a car fast enough to justify the expense of a custom built header, seems like keeping the steering box is a step in the wrong direction?
  2. Yup. Welcome to the dream factory.
  3. new control arms doesn't fix the problem. This bushing is not in the control arm. If it were you could simply use a press. this bushing is built in to the lower front section of the truck. It is not removeable from the truck. So you are hosed, no matter what.
  4. Today's Episode - "A Bracing Development" Still working on Driver's side C pillar panel. I built the side and lower braces that the panel bolts to. I drilled holes in it to plug weld to the body, and mounted a bunch of trapped nuts for bolting, just like the passenger side. Both of these are slightly different from the passenger side because I made what I consider to be improvements to them. Side brace Lower brace And primed. I need to grind back some primer before welding, but otherwise these are
  5. I'm not worried about the gearing. I just really want that silly 4 shifters thing... so really its the most ridiculous motivation possible. 😄
  6. Poly will squeak if not maintained with grease. It also doesn't have the "return to center" stretch and rebound of a rubber bushing. I'm not saying don't use them, I'm just saying be aware of side effects. The front lower control arm bushings in the crossmember are a nightmare. I've done two sets myself and heard many other horror stories. I had to burn the bushings out of the main casing, saw the casing with a hack saw, then use a chisel to fold, roll, and punch the casing out of the crossmember. For that one I now always use polyurethane just because of ease of install and removal,
  7. Very true. These things are built like tanks. In every way. The thing I really want to do is more with the transfer case. Its a twin stick dana 18, with PTO port which allows for the addition of a bolt on overdrive unit, also manually shifted. So with a manual trans you end up with this 4 shifter setup that would be hilarious to me. These pics are from a scout but you get the idea. I was doing research the other day to see what it would take to hook my T18 transmission to a GM engine. It looks like I would have to g
  8. the 345 seems like a perfect engine to turbo charge. Stock compression is like 8.7:1. I'd fuel inject it first though. Low boost 8-10 lbs, come on early in the rpm range. Wake it up a little bit 😄. I just dont currently have any vehicles I want to put such a ridiculous beast in to, so this will probably go live in storage as the T-All build progresses.
  9. After you do your repairs, is there a reason you don't just do an inner tank coating yourself?
  10. No keys, so I removed the key switch and just jumpered across terminals to see if I could start this thing. All it really took was a little fiddling. We thought we had no spark at the points, but as we messed with things and checked for voltage, we ended up with spark at the points. I'm not sure if we did something or just were wrong at first. Both are possible. We didn't even clean all the spider webs out of the carb, we just hosed it with some carb cleaner and cranked it over. It took a couple tries to get the starter to spin, but pretty quick we got it fired up and running. Stumbly,
  11. Its especially nice that many old key switches actually label what the the wires do for you, so you can hotwire them even if you aren't completely familiar with them. I did that just saturday on my Travelall to see if I could get the IH 345 running.
  12. Today's episode - "That's the spot" Hooray for spot weld hole filling! Especially when you don't realize that your welder is set just a little too cold, so instead of penetration, you get surface welds. Then grind those off and you have....nothing. Crap. So I basically did a bunch of this welding twice, cuz the first round wasn't really very good. The upper corner of the C pillar panel I'm working on got jacked up when I removed it from the truck, so I found a random piece of truck scrap with a similar bend in it and replaced the corner completely.
  13. Today's episode "Door Hinge Redux" With the B pillar essentially finished, it was time to move on to the C pillar and door hinge. Step one, remove the inner C pillar panel. Step two, mess up a hinge. Heres the two hinges again, one pre and one post modification. 90% of the way to finished with mods. Only took a couple of hours this time as I had a better idea of what I was doing. And also fairly close to the correct vertical so I avoid the sagging issues that have plagued me on these. For these cuts,
  14. Lockleaf

    Seat cover source

    Yeah, the $20 store shelf units are all crap. The browning stuff we used to sell when I worked for Oreilly wasn't any better than the regular stuff. I haven't seen the Carhartt ones but unless its made of their fabric they use for coats and coveralls, probably crap too. To get a decent seat cover quality, expect to spend at least $50. I think the hardest wearing but not stupidly expensive are saddle blanket type covers in my opinion. You can feel the heft of the fabric compared to the cheaper stuff, but to get nice quality covers in a different fabric can get expensive.
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