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Lockleaf

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Lockleaf last won the day on August 26 2016

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About Lockleaf

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 05/15/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Happy Valley, Utah
  • Cars
    '71 510 Goon, '90 240SX, '85 720, '69 Roadster, '05 Saabaru 92x, '07 Saab Trollblazer 97x
  • Occupation
    Lawyer

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  1. Hells yeah! I've loved these for years and have nearly pulled the trigger on one like 6 times. Never quite did it though. There's a rolling chassis near me right now for $500 that's always tempting but i have to much broken garbage as it is. Super excited to see where this goes.
  2. You don't need 720 knowledge. You need sound deadener knowledge. There are a few guys on ratsun who know a thing or two, but research into that topic on the internet will be your best bet. Home built by jeff on YouTube goes into some theory on his porsche build.
  3. Lockleaf

    720 4x4 KA24DE swap

    How is it a bad idea? The exact same engine in the truck has independent caps. 99% of engines out there have independent caps. There is no evidence that it will cause any issues what so ever. Only the supposition based on "it wouldnt be there if it didnt HAVE to be" which has been proven wrong repeatedly.
  4. Congrats on the start up man! That feeling of satisfaction you get when a huge project like this comes together is a major part of the reason I love playing with cars. I completely understand your frustration with the wiring. I have a '71 510 (Half Pint in my signature if you're interested) with an 80's nissan truck motor in it, and my wiring was mostly gone when I got the car, so I used the complete wiring harness from the truck as well. Integrating that harness with the factory 510 switches (headlight, wiper, blower motor) and also with the wiring to the back half of the car took FOREVER. All sorts of crazy little things I had to track down.
  5. Lockleaf

    720 4x4 KA24DE swap

    I've (over the course of many years) found 2 threads (i think both on infamous nissan?) where someone did it. One guy just took his grinder with a flap wheel and kept test fitting the truck pan until it fit over the girdle. The other guy went hardcore and cut the caps apart completely, then ground the caps until they fit under the pan. I should edit my previous comment to start with "According to the internets......" Unfortunately, I have never kept track of those threads and I have no idea what even led me to them in first place.
  6. Lockleaf

    720 4x4 KA24DE swap

    Girdle can be cut away to fit inside truck pan.
  7. Life has been massively busy for me for the last few months. We sold our house and relocated temporarily while we build a new one. That meant I had to move this beast, so I pounded out some more work on it to get it strong enough to move without tearing itself in half. I cut out at least 60 spot welds on the interior of the truck. Then I took measurements from the finished side to make all my cuts for this side. Where I spent something like 15 or 20 hours building the passenger side (badly), I only took about 3 hours to build the drivers side, and it's way better. Ah the beauty of experience and knowledge... The fitment was pretty darn good I think. Here's a bunch of pics of the pieces being fit together before welding. Upper door frame and window frame on top Center Pillar (B Pillar) Top window frame area Inner main upper support (inside of the above shot, connecting to back truck cab on left. Inside of B pillar, front cab portion on Right, "new" part of B pillar in middle, upper door frame on left. You can see the seams unwelded. I think they are pretty good fit. Inside shot of upper half of whole fabbed area Lower half of new door frame. Took me a couple hours to get it all welded up. The rocker panel is still not done. I need to replace both rockers completely, so I didn't even weld that portion of the new door frame on. Whole passenger door frame installed. Drivers side for comparison. If you look hard, you can see it is much more piecemeal. If you can't see that, trust me, its MUCH more piecemeal. Testing how I could reuse the INNER panels to build a new B pillar, also needs to fit properly over the seatbelt section. Both photos are the passenger side of the quad cab. I think I can split the orange B pillar piece and the black one and build the inner fairly similarly to how I built the outer, and get it all reassembled. That has not happened yet. Thats basically all I can do for now. I'm in a place I can't weld or really do lots of work to any of my projects. Focusing on getting my new house built, but we are only just getting the plans finalized so I have the whole thing to go. This doesn't get much work, but I'm overall pretty happy with how it's going. I've decided that much as I wish I could keep the two sunroofs that were installed in this truck, they are just in way too bad of shape and don't seem to have parts available. So I'm going to cut a roof off of something else (that has a sunroof), and install that roof as one piece on the top of this truck. That will fix the sunroof holes, and also fix the "step" I currently have in my roof. I will try to repair the dead pic links soon.
  8. Pontiac blue is the closest off the shelf engine color. Still not prefect though.
  9. Have you looked into shocks with coil springs over them?
  10. With the key on you should be able to trace power to that oil pressure switch, but not out of it. If that is the case, turn off key, unplug both wires from oil pressure switch and put a jumper wire across them. That should kick the pump on with the key if you wired it all up correctly. Then you can undo the jumper and plug back to pressure switch so it functions how you designed it.
  11. Is this your first real project car? Does it run currently? A running car is WAY easier to stay motivated and continue working, because you get to enjoy the car in between stuff you do. DO NOT start by pulling the stock drivetrain. Even if you plan to change the engine out, i would get it running and driving stock first. Simple fact is if you can't get an L16 running solid, its pretty much a given that you will not have the skills to complete a reliable swap. Once driving, get the brakes and suspension up to SR level. You don't mention those but unless your car recently underwent a massive restoration, those are priority one. Once most the other stuff is done, then go back to the engine swap. Plan on $5k for the swap to get actually reliably running. Yes it can be done for less, but its massively harder and time consuming. Then you can pick your favorite center console to match your redone interior and you're done. Bring thick skin around here. Everyone believes their opinions of aesthetics are facts handed down from God. Also bring lots and lots of pics.
  12. D21 should still be common in junkyards. Just make sure its a ka in it
  13. Lockleaf

    720 problems

    Vacuum leaks can be detected easily with starter fluid or break parts cleaner. Check youtube for videos how.
  14. No, the intake will not work. Exhaust will bolt up but the ports are the wrong shape so grinding is likely called for. Dizzy can be made to work if you also use the oil pump drive shaft. But only do that if you are staying carbureted. And then i would suggest getting a d21 throttle body fuel injection intake manifold, slap together an adapter and put a carb on it.
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