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620slodat

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About 620slodat

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    Newbie

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  • Location
    Albany, OR (out of town)
  • Cars
    1973 620, 1994 K2500 Chevy, 1998 Astro, 1971 Toyota FJ 40, 2005 Buick Century (wife/daughter's car)
  • Interests
    Camping, hunting, fishing(occasionally)

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  1. 620slodat

    Greetings! Intro/build thread

    I fully understand where you are coming from. I spent close to 40 years in a cabinet shop, doing cabinet installation, and other woodwork. If you don't have space for your livelihood you are fighting a losing battle. The shop space I have is full of Dad's stuff and my stuff because I always have something else more important to do. My Dad was a packrat (grew up in the depression era) and I learned his packrat ways I guess. I just hate the thought of getting rid of his stuff since someday it will be "needed", and since it is not work related I tend to procrastinate.
  2. 620slodat

    Greetings! Intro/build thread

    How true!!! The shop (24 X 36) is almost full with my Dad's stuff (he's been gone since 2001), and my stuff almost fills the rest. My vehicles have to set halfway in the roll up door because of lack of space.
  3. 620slodat

    v6 4.3 swap

    I have a 1997 (currently parked and uninsured because of lack of funds) and 1998 Astro vans with the 4.3 Vortec (6 of the 8 cylinders in a 5.7 V8) and 4L60E automatics in them. I don't know what rear end gears they have, but I run 225/75/15 tires (both vans drive and act the same). I have towed a single axle 17 ft. travel trailer, and a 21 ft double axle travel trailer over Santiam Pass with the 97. The 4.3 is Vortec is a very strong motor, and has a very long life if taken care of. Currently over 285K miles on the 98, and the motor is still running strong. But, in my experience the 4.3 Vortec will not be a good gas mileage motor. I get in the neighborhood of 15 MPG driven around here locally. I have gotten up to just over 19 on a long run (very heavily loaded down) on I-5.
  4. 620slodat

    What Paint To Use On The Frame

    Thank you everybody for chiming in with your experiences and opinions. Like has been mentioned by several, I'm going to have to be careful with my aspirations. I'm not after a show stopper finished item. What I want is a paint job that will hold up for many years without breaking the bank, and without any rust. I spent about 15 years total (three different jobs) installing cabinets, the last several years with custom cabinets in upper end homes. Because of this I tend to go for the shine, where I don't need that kind of polish with this frame. I'm going to have to keep that in mind. My dreaming tends to get out of hand with the finished product. What was said about most of the frame never being seen is true, however I've had some problems in the past with rattle bomb paint. From what was said on here, and with my experience, prep is the key.
  5. 620slodat

    What Paint To Use On The Frame

    I'm 70 miles inland from the ocean and we seldom have snow here, and when we do have snow the roads aren't salted (sand instead), so I don't have salt to deal with. But, I do have lots of inclement weather. Rain (humidity) and the temperature are my two biggest problems to overcome.
  6. 620slodat

    What Paint To Use On The Frame

    It sounds to me like Moist Lightning, Stoffregen, and rinigado are close in their processes, mainly just a difference in the type of paint used. Anyway, whats being said is cleaning and de-rusting VERY well is the key to success. The processes/paint may differ slightly, but the end product will show a lot of care if cleaning is carefully done. I will need to carefully check drying temperatures needed for the different products and compare to the air temperatures I am dealing with. I already have Ospho and what I am wondering about is if cleaning and then using Ospho for the rust left behind will keep new rust from forming if I have to let the frame set for a while for a warmer temperature. Maybe I should do whatever modifying/welding/changing needs done while waiting for warmer weather. Anyhow, my big question will be how much time after Ospho application can be allowed before starting the paint process. In my searching/looking for painting processes I found this video and found it interesting and informative. www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQMzUkEKaBo
  7. 620slodat

    What Paint To Use On The Frame

    What Crashtd420 said here is EXACTY why I started this thread. I spent almost 40 years in cabinet shops, but deliberately avoided doing anything with spraying a finish. Because of my experience I know that knowledge is important to a well done job, and I needed the knowledge available here. The only area I have for doing this frame is a corner of my woodshed (dirt floor). Rain comes from the south, southwest here and I have a bale tarp up on the south side and an enclosed porch (used to be a carport) is the west side, so rain cannot come in. That is why I stated what I did in my first post, dry, but no heat. The outside temperature is what I have to deal with here. The usual winter time temperature here is in the 30's to low 40's at night, with the daytime temperatures in the 40's and sometimes in the low 50's. I may be able to tarp off part of the woodshed that the frame is in and put a little heat in there at times. I heat with wood, so there is no problem with warming up paint ahead of time. I am really glad that several different people posted their experience and ideas for painting and type of paint. Because of external circumstances I may not be able to clean the frame all at one time. However, because of my experiences I expected to be told that the frame must be clean. The frame does have some dirt, pealing paint in some places, and lots of grease in places, but fortunately no heavy rust. Stoffregen, you said that you prefer a self etching primer from SEM, but didn't give a name for the top coat paint. Is there a name for something that you prefer? Moist Lightning, you said that an epoxy primer holds up the best, and gave your experience with primer and paint. Are there names for the ones you prefer? I know from my experience that professionals have preferences, and that often times different brand names can be just as good as others, or circumstances can dictate one brand over another. That's why I need information to make the proper decisions for my situation. Thank you everybody, and if others have different experiences that haven't been stated yet, I am open to hearing everything so I can make decisions.
  8. 620slodat

    What Paint To Use On The Frame

    I''m looking for first hand experience with a frame paint. What I am looking for is something that will be very durable and hold up for several years, and hopefully be UV stable/resistant. I have never yet used any of the specialty paints, but I have read about POR-15, and less about Rust Bullet and Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator. From others experience POR-15 sticks very well (even to your skin), but it needs to be covered over because it isn't UV resistant. An extra layer of paint is more expense IF POR-15 is used. Rust Bullet and Eastwood's I know very little about. Something other than these three is good to know about also, so if you have first hand experience with anything that fits these parameters I want to hear about it. What I am looking for is: 1. Tough (UV resistant), will hold up for several years, preferably without having to put a coat of something else over it. If it takes less UV resistance to get a very tough paint I will consider it, or if it takes top coating I will also consider it. 2. Once the can is opened the paint needs to be able to be re-opened within a few days and be usable. From what I have read POR-15 fails at this. 3. Being able to apply over a cleaned, but rusty surface is very important. 4. Being in the Northwet (misspelling intended) means that moisture is a fact of life. Before application, moisture resistance of the pre-applied paint is paramount. If waiting for dryer weather is needed it means that I won't be able to apply anything until summer. Not good! A little background is important. I now have a rolling frame, and I want to be able to clean and paint it. I will be working in an unheated, but dry and well ventilated area (partially open to the air). Because of previous injuries I MAY not be able to complete the cleaning and painting all at once. Depending on how I am feeling I may have to stop part way, close the can, and re-start at a later time (maybe later the same day, maybe the next day). I do have a spray gun I found in a place I lived several years ago, but have never used. Consequently, I most likely will need to brush on the paint. I do have a small compressor if needed, but no air dryer. As previously stated, first hand experience is important. I have been reading ratsun for several months now, but do not remember anybody saying anything, except maybe in a passing manner.
  9. 620slodat

    R1 Carbs, Smog Clean Up

    A slight sidetrack here. Datzenmike, you mentioned vacuum pumps that certain Volvos have. Can you tell us what models and years have them? OK, sidetrack off.
  10. 620slodat

    Introduction for 620slodat

    Wayno, put together an e-mail last night, but found it still on the computer this morning, not sent. I guess I got busy last night and forgot to send it. I did send it this morning though.
  11. 620slodat

    Introduction for 620slodat

    Datzenmike and wayno, thank you for educating me on how to do a PM on this forum. Starting a PM is really different on this forum than the Toyota forums I have frequented in the past. Wayno, I sent a PM reply to you earlier this morning. Datzenmike, I realize the 720 is wider. However, what I am working with is a 1973 620 pickup. I don't know how much difference in width there is, but I know that an early 620 like I have has a narrower rear axle than the later 620. I don't remember any difference if any, but isn't the late 620 about the same as an early 720? No diesel 4 X 4's were imported into the states so it stands to reason that the frame that wayno has is a 2 X 4. Since the frame that wayno has is a Kingcab I don't know yet what I will do to take up that extra frame length. Maybe add to the 620 cab to make it a stretched cab, or add to the bed to make it longer, or do a little of both. Knowing what some of the differences are between the 2 X 4 and 4 X 4 720 frames is helpful to me. Are there any differences in any of the suspension parts, especially the front suspension? I do know that there is a difference between the rear springs, but don't know of any others. If there isn't then I can use some of the suspension parts off the two 720's in the wrecking yard.
  12. 620slodat

    Introduction for 620slodat

    After reading that thread yesterday my memory is somewhat fresh, and I don't remember anything being said about wheelbase width problems. He did have a problem with the 521 cab setting higher on the D21 frame than he liked though. From the pictures he posted the cab and bed looked good on the D21 frame. That brings to mind a problem I'm having with the older threads that I'm reading. There are pictures that show up as only a set of numbers, and so far I haven't been able to get any of them to work for me, while the actual links work for me. Is it my computer, or is there a way to be able to see them that I'm not aware of? On a Toyota Landcruiser web site that I frequent it was well known that any exhaust that went straight out the back would have the exhaust fumes sucked inside the Cruiser, but if the exhaust was sent out the side behind the rear wheel the problem would go away. So, consequently, my plans were to send the exhaust out behind the rear wheel and not straight out the back, just incase somebody was to ride in the canopy. Yes, I am using a different name on the diesel forum. I called the local DMV today and talked to Nathan. Since I didn't have any specifics, VIN numbers, etc, he could only say that it was possible to swap frames and have it legal. First, the VIN numbers of both vehicles need to be checked by State Police for any problems, stolen, etc. The VIN number that they chose to use for the new title would most likely be the frame number, but the body number could be used if the frame number isn't found. So, I will most likely use the 720 frame. I"m assuming that it is a bare frame and will need both front and rear suspension and anything else that was bolted on also. One thing that I"m wondering about is if a 720 4 X 4 front suspension will work on the frame in a 2 X 4 set up since a couple months ago I knew where two were in a wrecking yard in Albany. I looked up at the top of the page and didn't see anything I recognized for doing a PM. What do i need to look for, or do, to do a PM?
  13. 620slodat

    Introduction for 620slodat

    Well, we will see how the five main block is done when I get to the point of pulling the pan. Until then I will just have to wonder. I just wasn't thinking I guess. You are right about the turbo exhaust outlet dictating the size of the exhaust pipe. I have either three or three and a half inch (memory isn't working) coming out of the turbo on my Chevy 6.5, with it changing to four inch under the front of the passenger floor. I can live with the sound until I am picking up speed with a load on, and it is my workhorse/firewood hauler. I'm going to have to go to DMV and ask questions about doing a legal frame swap, and soon too as I want to know if it is worth the hassle before the D21 on Craigslist is gone. I searched and found that same thread that you put in the link for. I read all ten pages today, and what I got out of them was that it can be done, but may not be easy. At minimum parting it out may be worth the few, or many, parts I can get out of it and selling the rest. Depending on what I find out when contacting DMV I may take you up on that 720 frame.
  14. 620slodat

    Introduction for 620slodat

    Wayne, I'm glad you brought up exhaust pipe size as that is something I have been questioning. What diameter of exhaust pipe do I want? I'm old school in that I don't want real loud, but I do want a real free flowing exhaust. I have about two feet of the stock SD-22 exhaust, which is about 1 5/8 inch outside and close to 1 1/2 inch inside diameter. You have both 2 1/2 and 3 inch exhausts and there is a real big difference in volume from stock to what you have. What is your preference for size? I realize that both are on motors with turbo's which need larger exhausts. I'm going to need to install a complete new system and I want to size the exhaust for a turbo. I don't want to install one for an NA motor, and then turn around and install a new system for a turbo when I add a turbo later. I realize that you have one system that goes clear to the back of your pickup, and another that exits in front of the rear wheel, and that both are without mufflers because of turbo's (NA will need a muffler). This will make a difference in sound, and to complicate things more each system is a different size. But, which sounds better to you, and why. Thank you for posting that picture of the inside of the crankcase. Now I don't have to question what to look for when I look for oil squirters. But, that does also bring a question to mind. Is their any difference in length of blocks between three main bearing motors and five main bearing motors. It seems to me that the crank would need to be a little longer with five mains. Charlie69 brought up an idea that I haven't really played with. Since you have experience with swapping frames, will a D21 frame easily swap over in place of the 620 frame? I looked on Craigslist this morning and found a 1990 D21 that was rolled and appears to have a straight frame. All the frame swaps I've read about involved putting a 521 cab onto a 720 frame. If this is possible it would involve putting a 620 cab onto a D21 frame. I'm thinking that if it is easily possible that it would have been done already. This makes me think that it would be more difficult than putting a 521 cab onto a 720 frame. IF-- it is not too difficult I would end up with ball joints and disc brakes without any difficulty AFTER the cab swap. But, I haven't read of this swap.
  15. 620slodat

    Introduction for 620slodat

    After looking back and re-reading what I wrote I should have clarified what I was talking about. I think we are talking about two different subjects. I'm talking about the intake up to the head and the exhaust after the turbo, and you are talking about the turbo itself. Both are very important to a properly running diesel. I understand that properly sizing a turbo for a diesel motor is very important to what a certain size motor can put out, and that too big a turbo for the motor size can be a problem to the way a diesel can run. Also, a larger intake and exhaust is important as you have to supply the motor with plenty of air for the fuel injected, and you have to quickly remove the spent fuel after the turbo has done it's thing (to allow the turbo unimpeded flow of exhaust gasses). Right now the motor will need to be pulled again as I don't have the flywheel or clutch in place. When I pull the motor to put the flywheel and clutch in I'll have to pull the pan so I can see how many mains it has. In the SD-22 you rebuilt do you remember what the bottom side of the pistons looked like? I can send you a picture of them when I pull the motor. I should also be able to see if it has squirters. We are looking at the gasket sealing situation from two different aspects. You are wanting to make sure the gasket never leaks after the sealer dries. And I'm looking at things as if I may need to remove things later and will want to re-use the gasket. I can understand where you are coming from as I also don't like leaks. I will need to consider where the item is (like the pan) and how much is involved with cleaning the gasket surface on the block.
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