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620slodat

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About 620slodat

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Albany, OR (out of town)
  • Cars
    1973 620, 1994 K2500 Chevy, 1998 Astro, 1971 Toyota FJ 40, 2005 Buick Century (wife/daughter's car)
  • Interests
    Camping, hunting, fishing(occasionally)

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  1. I haven't taken the transmission apart to do any measuring, but from what DM said, and what I could find, I will need a 56mm bearing. The gaskets would probably fit, but that bearing won't. So, unless you know somebody that can use a large bearing I will have to pass. Don
  2. DM is correct. What I have found is the same as he stated. So, I will need a 56mm bearing for the countershaft. I don't need any bearings right away, but because of the time the transmission set without use I'm planning on replacing them sometime after getting them into use. Don
  3. This was just a back up, so if the larger bearing wasn't until 85 or later then this bearing won't fit. The transmission I have is an 81. Haven't had time to do any checking yet, planning to do so this evening. Too many irons in the fire for this afternoon. Donj
  4. Will these work for a 5sp on an SD-22 diesel? I think they will, but haven't done any checking yet. If they will work you can consider them sold. I'm only about 25 miles away from OSU (wife worked there for many years). We can continue this by PM to keep this forum uncluttered. Don
  5. 620slodat

    Timing

    I have used the starter before, on a Toyota FJ40 with a straight 6. If my memory serves me correct the bolt was on with somewhere around 150 ft/lbs of torque. This works real good. You need to position the socket and long breaker bar so that it is almost on the frame, and make sure the socket is on securely. With just barely a bump on the key/starter the bolt will come loose. EVERYBODY needs to be out of the way first before bumping the starter though as there is a lot of energy in this method. Don
  6. I have another wheel to get the horn buttons/plate off of in order to remove the wheel. I think it is for a 1985 4X4. It is similar to the wheel i started this thread about In that there are no screws on the back of the spokes. The horn button is the non-round item in the center of the wheel, and is on springs which allow it to move. The silver part appears to be fastened solid to the main part of the wheel. I tried pulling, pushing and twisting, pulling and twisting, and maybe something else that I don't remember right now. I can just barely see two bolt heads at the top area between the horn button and the silver part of the wheel. Do these bolts need to be loosened/removed to get the cap off the wheel so I can get to the nut that holds the wheel to the shaft? If so, it is very tight quarters to get the wrench in there. Or is there another trick to getting it off? The steering column is temporarily bolted into place in a 620. Temporarily is the key word. That is why I haven't been too forceful yet trying different combinations to get the wheel off. Maybe I just need to be more forceful, but I am leary of the way the column is currently mounted. There is also no seat, so it is harder to do anything. The wheel is not something I am wanting to use. But, there are parts on the column that I may want to use. Don
  7. I think you are trying to make me feel old. Wait, I think I may be considered old by some standards. I grew up with them. They are good filters......as long as you don't go through rough terrain. Don
  8. 620slodat

    no 12 volt power

    I'm not very well versed on Datsun 620 wiring. But, I recently got a 1979 Datsun 620. This pickup, if the wiring is stock and untouched, has a fusible link at the battery positive terminal, maybe more than one. This link protects the 12V power going into the cab. Do you have 12V power at the always on portion of the fuse block? Always on means it will power the headlights, and a few other items, without the key needing to be on. If you don't have headlights check the fusible link and make sure 12V is going through it. Headlights not working can be other problems also, but check the fusible link first and make sure it is working properly. I don't have a picture of the fusible link myself. But, if you go to this link https://ratsun.net/topic/77764-shopping-for-fusible-links/ and go to the second and sixth posts you will get some valuable information. The second post gives the color of the fusible link wires, and other information. The sixth post has several pictures of Datsun fusible link wires. These pictures are not necessarily of a 1979 Datsun fusible link set up. But your fusible link will be similar. Don ps-datsunmike was faster than me. He posted a picture of part of post number two.
  9. Must be the deluxe wheel because the wheel I'm used to for a 1973 620, and all the subsequent years that I have seen, have been just two spokes. Also, I tried what DM said to try, and it didn't work for me. I have a cheapy steering wheel puller that I dug out. But, with all the bolts I could find I was unable to find an M8 x 1.25 thread that was long enough to fit the wheel puller that I have. Tomorrow is seniors day (10% off on most all items at Coastal Farm) and I will get some bolts the right size and thread there. By the way, if you live close to a Coastal Farm store they have gift cards available until Dec 31 (I think) where you get about 10% more put on the card than you paid, in other words if you buy a $500 card you will get $600 put on your card. To top it off if you are 55 or older you get 10% off most purchases on Tuesdays. Couple this discount with the discount card and you will get both discounts. Needless to say, I like Tuesdays at Coastal Farm. Coastal Farm is in western Oregon and a few places in western Washington, and maybe a few other places. Don
  10. Thank you to all who replied. With your help I got the horn buttons/front plate off without any damage. I haven't removed the steering wheel from the shaft yet, but that will be easy. First, I turned the steering wheel vertical (not really needed, but I did it anyway), then I applied outward pressure to the bottom spoke front cover(no horn button), and with only a little pressure to the left spoke front cover the cover popped off.
  11. Thank you! I will try that on Sunday. Don't worry, horn won't honk. No battery. Don
  12. DM, here are pics of the steering wheel. I am assuming it is a Datsun wheel because of the D in the center of the spokes in the first pic. The wheel is sideways in that pic as the spoke pointing to the right in the pic is actually the vertical center spoke at the bottom of the wheel. The second pic is of the back of the center spoke. I am used to screws showing up here and on the other spokes, and having to remove them to get to the nut on the steering shaft, but there are no screws. In the second pic you can see the dividing line between the front half and back half of the spokes. These are two separate pieces, and will be the assumed place where the front half comes off to expose the steering shaft and nut. What I am needing is someone who has experience with this type of wheel and can tell me how it comes apart. Don
  13. I have a 1979 King Cab that I need the steering wheel removed. I have removed the steering wheel on many different cars, but this one seems to be different. I just have removed the screws on the back of the spokes to remove the front of the spokes/horn buttons to get to the nut on the steering shaft. But, this is different, no screws on the back of the spokes. The steering wheel is different in that it has three spokes instead of the two like I am used to on early Datsuns. There is a dividing line between the front and back of the spoke, making two pieces out of the spoke, but no screws holding them together. Are the front and back just snapped together? I need somebody with experience with this type of wheel to give me some pointers as I don't want to damage this wheel. I am going out there to the pickup as soon as I finish this post and will get some pictures, if they will be needed. Don
  14. Thank you for the offer! I have pulled the instrument cluster out as of yesterday (a whole story in itself). The tach was wired in with a scotch lock and a wire nut. One of these two was just barely long enough to get the cluster out just a little ways. The third wire is stretched out through the dash cavity. How it is hooked up is yet to be found out. I haven't looked very close at the wiring yet, but seems to be OK. The tach and radio are not stock with this vehicle. This was all done to figure out the fuse block. The wiper fuse is still intact, and the scotch lock was on that wire, between the fuse and the wiper motor. I had only 10.5 volts at the wiper motor, and 12.3+ elsewhere. I carefully squeezed the fuse clamps together, and one was just barely held together and broke. All the rest seemed to hold together alright (haven't cleaned them yet). The short story is that I either need a different fuse block, or a new fuse panel. I do have a blade style fuse panel, but it is not wired in yet. The quickest thing would be to repair the original fuse block. I will take a look at it and see if the clip can be replaced. If so that would be the quickest way to get it going again. I have been planning to go up to see wayno and get a ride in his pickup with the stock rear leafs to find out what the stock 720 rear suspension is like. The rain is here most of the time, and outside chores are almost out of the question now because of the rain ( i had to work rain or shine growing up and I am now against working in the rain). So, consequently I have been thinking very much about seeing when he is available. If so, I would be going past there on I-5. I don't know yet when though. I will keep in touch. Don ps-I need your phone number so I can put it into my cell phone. I have looked for it, but so far no luck. I have been getting a LOT of scam calls lately and have been ignoring any calls that don't have a number/name in my phone. PM me with it so it won't be on the internet.
  15. I took a base out of my 1979 gauge cluster this evening and it measures about .610 across just above the electrical contacts that touch the board. So, .625, or 5/8ths, should be right. I didn't go out to measure the hole in the board, just about ready to go to bed. The one I took out looks like one on the far right in DM's picture. Don
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