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620slodat

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About 620slodat

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Albany, OR (out of town)
  • Cars
    1973 620, 1994 K2500 Chevy, 1998 Astro, 1971 Toyota FJ 40, 2005 Buick Century (wife/daughter's car)
  • Interests
    Camping, hunting, fishing(occasionally)

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  1. I like your idea. I personally don't have a use for these items as I am in the process of putting an SD22 diesel motor onto a 1982 diesel frame, and putting a 1973 620 body onto the frame/motor. Again, I honor your idea. Don
  2. Although you didn't have the information I was hoping for, I thank you for the reply and doing what you could. If you can get some information from the correct parties it would be very much appreciated. If they are not able to for whatever reason, thanks for trying. Don
  3. Do you have pictures of how the radiator was cut into the core support to produce this kind of look? Pictures of the process of cutting the core support, the panel in front, and how you rolled the sheet metal are what I am interested in. I very well might have to do this same thing to put a larger radiator into my 1973 620. I have modified the core support some already, but may have to do similar and want the modification to look real good like yours does. Don
  4. It looks to me like the outer diameter of the socket is the same size as the outer face of the nut. Is it? Can you fasten/weld something around the outside of the socket to center the socket on the nut? Adding something to the socket that would span from the side of the socket to the tabs on the socket would keep the socket centered on the nut and allow the tabs to engage the recesses in the face of the socket. The addition to the socket wouldn't have to be all the way around the socket either, it could be just at four equal distant points around the socket. I'm not sure if what I wrote makes sense, does it ? Don
  5. 620slodat

    Power steering

    Thank you for the pics. Some very good info that will help me with decisions when I get to that point. Don
  6. 620slodat

    Power steering

    Thank you for this info and the links for Borgeson parts. I have the steering shaft and box from a 1973 620 (spear made to look like a steering shaft) a 1985 720 shaft and box with power steering, and the manual box for a 1982 720. Don't know yet what I will use, but likely some kind of combo of what I have. Because of this thread I have more ideas, and the more ideas I get the better for the final outcome. I am seriously considering electric power steering because the area under the hood of a 620 is at a premium. I definitely am going to leave room for an AC unit (to keep the wife interested in the final outcome) and a turbo on the diesel motor, which will take up most of the available space. Don
  7. 620slodat

    Power steering

    I went out this morning and double checked my counts. On the manual box, 28 splines is correct. On the power box, 36 is the corrected count. I still wasn't confident in my count, so I counted again and came up with 28 and 36 splines. I'm a cabinetmaker (started in 1968), so accuracy is important to me. I don't know where I goofed up on the power box, (OOOPPPS!!!) maybe because the shaft was dirty, and the light at that time in the evening wasn't very good. Anyway, both boxes had the shafts cleaned with lacquer thinner, sandpaper lightly run over the tops of the splines to make them stand out, and a sharpie marker used on the splines to help keep track of where I was in the count. The power box was out of the vehicle so I could get a much more accurate count on the splines. Anyway, sorry for the confusion, and the spline count is corrected. I haven't looked yet, but what you found out about the u-joint availability will make a big impact on my decision of which box to use (and steering column). The next big hurdle for me is can the power box be used as a manual if the box has power steering (transmission) fluid put in it. The fluid ports will be hooked together so the fluid could possibly travel in a complete circle through the box and the "lines" without restriction. I plan to eventually put electric power steering in the pickup. Don
  8. 620slodat

    Power steering

    I have both a 1982 manual steering box and a 1985 power steering box for a 720. The input shaft sizes are different. The manual box is .5675 inch (or there about) and 28 splines. The power box is .6750 (or there about) and 35 spline. I used my digital calipers to measure the diameter with. The splines I counted several times (not easy when dirty and greasy) and came up with the same numbers each time. I haven't looked, but Borgeson has a lot of choices for u-joints. Don PS- something I almost forgot about. The inputs are different also in the way they are configured. The manual box has a flat end on the shaft with a milled area on the side of the shaft for a bolt in the flex joint that pinches the flex joint onto the shaft. The power box has an end just like the 280ZX box that D.M. pictured. But, then it had a groove cut all the way around the shaft about the middle of the length of the spline. This means that a u-joint, or flex joint, could be put on, and bolted, in any location around the shaft.
  9. I definitely am technically challenged. My daughter was able to get the pic here, but I don't understand how she got it here. Anyway, here is the drivers side of the seat. The pickup is under construction so the other side of the seat (and elsewhere) is covered with parts. It appears to be the same configuration as in the first post. I hope this picture helps you. Don
  10. I have a 1973 620 that was my dad's, which he bought brand new. I know the full history on it, and the straight front seat is the original in it. If I can figure out how to post it I have a pic of the drivers side of the seat. I am surprised in how good of condition it is considering the age. Dad put some foam rubber and an aftermarket seat cover on it. Although I only pulled the foam and seat cover off the drivers side to get pics and to look at it, the drivers side usually gets most of the wear. There is one rip in it, in the sewn section, the full length of the rib, and the foam under the original seat cover is in good shape. I will try now to see if I can post a pic. Don ps-the seat shown in the first post could be the same as the one I have.
  11. I found it interesting what the pic showed for the front cable. I will have to crawl under Dads 1973 standard cab short bed to see what I can see the "trolley" and how it hooks to the rear cable. I wonder if the system used there is the same as used on the 1978 King Cab. I don't remember what the 1978 used there. It may have been gone when I first saw it in the pick-n-pull. The cable shown in your link #2 has the same style metal end on the right end of the sheath as the one I have that has remnants of the bellows on it. None of the links shows the strain relief that both of my cables have. Both of my cables have a strain relief (like is used on power tool electric cords where the cord goes into the tool handle) where the sheath goes into the backing plate. I've got to go now, but thanks for the three links. I found what each showed to be very interesting. Don
  12. I went out and measured them and got these dimensions: OEM sheath 56 15/16ths inch, OEM cable 66 5/8ths inch; aftermarket sheath 57 7/16ths inch, aftermarket cable 66 11/16ths inch. There were two swagged knobs on the brake end of both cables. I measured to the inside edge of the farthest one, which was about 1 3/16ths inch beyond the first swagged knob. A difference in sheaths of 1/2 inch and cables of 1/16th inch. I'm calling OEM the one that has remnants of a rubber bellows that protect the cable from moisture and dirt because of the way that the bellows attached to the steel end on the sheath. The bellows attached with a ring (like an O-ring) molded into the interior of the outer portion slipped over the metal end of the sheath as part of the outer rubber. The aftermarket bellows did not have the O-ring molded into the interior. It was held onto the metal end of the sheath just by friction. The sheath was measured from the backing plate mounting surface to the other end where the metal end of the sheath touched the frame. The cable was measured from inside the swagged end (that pulled on the brake mechanism) on the end of the cable) to inside the other matching swagged end. As noted above, there is about 1 3/16ths inch between the swagged knobs on the brake end of the cable. The cable lengths were within 1 inch longer (at the longest swagged knob) on my cables to 1/4 inch shorter if measured from the inner knob than you listed above. Depending on whether you look at the specs for the standard bed or the long bed the sheath lengths are 1 inch, or less, different in length. From these dimensions listed I surmised that the cables for the rear probably will fit your pickup. I think there is enough adjustment in the e-brake system to allow for these length differences. (by the way, I spent almost 40 years working with cabinets so measuring accurately is in my blood)
  13. Wayno (on this web site) is the SD-22 and SD-25 expert. He would be able to tell you if the oil pan will work with the stock independent 4 X 4 front pumpkin ((I don't thank it will work). He put an SD-25 (22?) into a 720 frame. I think that he went SAS though instead of independent suspension. He also put the diesel wire harness into the 521 cab, and put that onto the diesel frame. So, he is well experienced in what you are thinking of doing. The motor mounts for the SD-22 are in a slightly different location than the gasser motors. I started putting an SD-22 into a 620 standard cab pickup. Then I was given a 720 long wheel base frame that originally had the SD-22 in it, so I went that way. By using a piece of 1/4" plate I was able to put the SD-22 motor on the 620 gasser motor mount. I don't remember the exact dimensions, but the gasser mount is somewhere around 1 to 1 1/2" behind the SD-22 motor mount. However, if you are a better welder than I am putting the motor mount in the correct location would be better than the plate. I did not have the diesel wire harness, but I was able to get the SD-22 running, like from the factory, with a rotary switch from Radio Shack and the stock IP controller. I now have an aftermarket diesel ignition switch, which is still up in the air if it will work for me in the final set up. By the way, could there be a typo in your location? I couldn't find a Wilerville in Oregon, but Wilderville is just west of the Applegate River, and a little bit southwest of Grant Pass. I lived in the Grants Pass area in the early 70's. Don
  14. I got back home about an hour ago, and went out and double checked what I saw this morning. When I took the cables off the rear end I never marked them for right or left side (making a trailer out of the bed and back half of the frame plus using cab and under hood parts for other things). Both cable sheath's were about 1/4 inch from being the same length. And the cables were also within 1/4 inch of being the same. However, the longer sheath had the shorter cable, and vice-versa. Both cables and sheaths were almost identical in looks. The only difference I could detect was in the end that would have been attached to the frame, not the rear axle. That difference was in how the rubber bellows protecting the cable might have been attached. The remnants of the bellows was on one cable, while the other was completely gone. The biggest difference might have been because one might have been newer than the other, but I'm not sure. The possibility of being manufactured at two different times, and maybe being manufactured by two different plants, could explain the slightly different lengths. Going by what I saw I think that one cable could indeed be used for either side like you surmised. By the way, for those that are not involved in these measurements this is for a long wheelbase frame. The pickup was a King Cab and standard bed. From what I understand the frame is the same length whether it is a standard cab and long bed, or a King Cab and standard bed. Don
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