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620slodat

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About 620slodat

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Albany, OR (out of town)
  • Cars
    1973 620, 1994 K2500 Chevy, 1998 Astro, 1971 Toyota FJ 40, 2005 Buick Century (wife/daughter's car)
  • Interests
    Camping, hunting, fishing(occasionally)

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  1. I didn't know about the Mustang yard. I knew about the Mustang place, but I never knew they had a yard also. Of course, I don't have a vintage Mustang either (my brother had two back when they didn't have much value). The Millersburg yard is one I never even thought about. In my mind it is only a scrap yard. It was there when I was in Millersburg Grade School back in the late fifties and early sixties. The Paul family actually lived on site at the time. The older son (deceased now) was about my age. We live on the property I grew up on, just north of the Grange Hall. The Goldfish Farm yard was there when I was in high school. It was family owned at the time, and I went to high school with the son of the owner. That yard is now owned? by a guy that is friends with somebody I used to work for (he has several throughout the Willamette Valley). There is another yard less than half a mile away (also several other yards), fronting on Hwy 20. It has also gone through at least one hand in my time. The yard at the end of Scravel Hill Rd used to be open as a wrecking yard, but has been a scrap yard for many years. So it is open only once in a while? It doesn't even look like it is open any more. Albany has gone through some MAJOR changes since I was in school. Don
  2. I was wrong. The contact points inside the transmission were not touching the metal plates. Also, the points may have been burnt. When I tried bending the contacts back into touching the metal plates the contact strips were not as "springy" as I thought they should be. Because of the softness of the metal strips I will see if I can find another wiper motor. I am concerned about future loss of contact with the metal plates. Because it is still dark here I will have to wait until later to try the wiper motor park function. But, I will try again. Don
  3. The wiper motor was out of the pickup when I checked function a second time, yesterday. I used the wire colors to check high and low speeds, and they were there. Although it doesn't show there, I used some fine emery cloth to get the tips of the contacts bright. I never thought about the contacts showing that they might have been hot at some time, but I will check it. I didn't actually check for contact with the metal plates. Looking back I'm sure that contact was made, but I'll double check the contact this evening. I tried joining the two wires on the harness side, but I didn't get any park function. I will see what I can do about getting the park function from the motor side tomorrow. Don
  4. Since this thread has ended up including the wiper motor, I added wiper motor to the title. I made a little bit of time to do some checking on the wiper motor today. I used my Astro van as the power source and did some checking of the wiper motor. I got low and high speeds, but still never got the park function to work. I kept the power (12V+) and the ground (12v-) hooked up and tried several ways to get the park function to work. But no success with getting the park function working. The output shaft stopped any place it wanted when the power to the low speed was removed. I may be doing things all wrong, so I need someone to go over again what is needed to make the park function work. In all my checking I kept the power (12V+) and the negative (12V-) hooked up since that is what I though the pickup would do. I bridged blue and yellow, no park function. I bridged blue, yellow, and low speed, no park function. Can anybody help me out with ideas? Don
  5. My daughter was here and had to leave again, so I got my son's help. I don't know what he did, but in just a few clicks he had the picture uploaded (he is poor at explaining in simple enough terms for me to understand). He had it done so fast that I didn't even get to finish a post I had started. So, another post here we come. This is a pic of the internals of a wiper motor transmission for a Datsun 620. If you don't know what a wiper motor transmission looked like, now you do. If you put this picture together with my ramblings you might be able to understand what I'm trying to say. If anybody has questions I will try to explain. Since I got low and high speeds to work, and I get continuity for the park function, the switch is probably needing to be cleaned up to get the park function to work properly. I will check that out next. It may take me a few days to find time to check out the switch. We are having clear blue skies when it is usually raining and wet. So, "I have to make hay while the sun shines". In other words, I have lots to do around the place that is best done when it is dry. Don
  6. DM, I appreciate you and your abilities. I'm glad that you were able to understand my ramblings. But, because you are not the only one reading this thread I'm still planning to get some help to post a picture of the inside of the wiper transmission.
  7. I got the wiper motor back out of the pickup, took the cover off the transmission portion of the motor and did a continuity check. The plastic connector is riveted to the wiper motor transmission cover. Both the blue wire and the metal connector for the yellow wire (for the park function from the loom/switch) go through the plastic connector block using two copper springy strips on the inside of the transmission cover carrying the park function into the inside of the transmission cover, without using any visible wires to carry the park function into the motor. That is why I didn't see the yellow wire from the loom going anywhere beyond the connector. There were only four visible wires, not five. The copper springy strips that go inside the transmission cover touch against a short metal plate on the side of the nylon gear. This short metal plate only goes a small way around the gear, but this short metal plate is wide enough to connect the two wires together and exciting the park function. The metal strip (closest to the center of the nylon gear) that connects to the yellow negative park function wire (from the loom) also runs against a longer metal plate. This longer plate goes all the way around the nylon gear, except for where the short metal plate is and about 3/16ths on either side of the short metal plate. This longer metal plate keeps the yellow wire in contact long enough for the park function to work when it is called for by the switch. I know this is confusing, and a picture is needed. I tried to put a picture on here, unsuccessfully. My daughter has been gone all day, and when she gets home later this evening I will get her help. Don
  8. I just now took some time to look at the wiring diagram. The diagram shows a yellow wire on the wiper motor, but I don't remember any evidence of a yellow wire on the wiper motor. It's dark outside now and I put the wiper motor back in the pickup, so I will have to look at the wiper motor some other time. I don't think I will have any time to look tomorrow. Don
  9. Thank you DM!! I've made some time and started doing some checking, and so far I have high and low speeds, but I haven't found any park function yet. To get the park function you say to jumper the blue and yellow wires. Are you talking about connecting the blue and yellow in the switch? My wiper motor does not have a yellow wire. There is a yellow wire in the wire loom from the switch. But, it dead ends in the connection block at the wiper motor. I only have four wires on the wiper motor side of the connection block. Red (12V+, connects to blue/red stripe in the loom), White/Blue stripe (connects to blue/white stripe), Blue (connects to blue), empty spot (connects to yellow in the loom), Black (ground, connects to black). I haven't had time yet to look at the wiring diagram. Don
  10. To start with I've spent several hours searching and can't find what I need. I recently purchased a 1979 620 King Cab for parts. It appears that the pickup was equipped with at least the delayed wipers (I found the delay set up, and it seems to work), a 5 speed transmission, and maybe more. The following are the first set of questions I have. There will most likely be more to come as I may not get all the information needed between the wiring diagram and my searching. 1 & 2--There is no cover over the fuse block, and I need to know what size fuses are needed, and what each fuse goes to. A pic would be ideal if you have a cover over your fuse block. The fuse block in there has one flat edge and one edge with a semi-circle for part of it. I have 12.6+ volts up to the fuse block, but only about 10.5 volts at the wiper motor. Is this enough? 3--Is there a relay in between the fuse block and the motor? I can't find any on the wiring diagram, and searching under the dash is very time consuming, and hard. 4--The motor appears to work when I test it out of the vehicle, but the motor will not park. If anybody has experience with the wiper motor testing I want to hear it. 5--Will the park function work properly if the motor is rotated where it mounts to the firewall, but the wiper arms are put back on compensating for the different park position? I think it will, but have no experience with doing this. Don
  11. Just out of curiosity, where did you get your information? There are not two wrecking yards on Queen St, only one. The wrecking yard on Queen, although quite small, is the first place I check when I am looking for something. There used to be a yard (several years ago it closed) on the very west end of Queen, but small and very messy, and located between the old OE Line railroad and the end of Queen. It actually fronted on Riverside Drive, and close to where the east end of Riverside ended Queen crossed the Calapooia River, turned south and became Oakville Road. The rest of the yards in the area (that I did not include) may have Albany addresses, but are several miles out of town. Also, if there is a yard in the Millersburg area I would like to check it out as I live about a half mile north of the north edge of the "town". It is a very spread out, and rural, "town" that has the north/south main railroad as it's eastern boundary. Don
  12. I have my Dad's 1973 that he bought brand new, so I know it is the original seat. It was manufactured in July of 1973. It doesn't have any cutout in the center of the seat. And, as you can see the metal slider appears to be the same as your 1974. I didn't take very much time to see how the seat frame was constructed, but maybe the seat frame could be lowered some without changes to the slider mechanism . If this could be done you might get anywhere from 1 to 2 inches. You might be able to modify the seat mounts slightly to gain another 1/2 to 1 inch in height. This might get you enough clearance to the steering wheel to be able to get into the pickup without touching the "new" seat (it looks too good to do anything to). While doing this you might be able to move the seat back just a little bit also. Moving the seat back would depend a lot on the distance between the gas pedal and the seat cushion, and the length of you leg. The original seat cover is there, as is also some foam that my Dad added, and the aftermarket seat cover that he added on top of the foam. The original padding seems to be just "horsehair" padding, and the foam he added would reduce the height of the seat to steering wheel distance. However, the steering wheel and column is not in the pickup, otherwise I could measure that for you also. Don
  13. 620slodat

    L16 to L20 swap

    I don't know the Datsun motors very well, but from your description (backfiring through the carb) it sure sounds like it is out of time. Double check, and triple check your timing sequence. Maybe 180 out? I know you brought all these symptoms up, but my experience is that sometimes the simplest things that will cause the problems. Once I spent several hours on Dad's 1973 620 (died in downtown Albany) and once I replaced the rotor it started right up. We had been to Ukiah, Oregon the day before, which happens to be many miles from the nearest town with any parts stores. Don
  14. 620slodat

    Hand brake repair

    North Oregon is very vague. That can be anywhere from the coast, to the northern Willamette Valley, to the farm lands and high desert east of the Cascades. The coast can be very rust prone, and even the northern Willamette Valley IF the e-brakes were not used regularly. However, east of the Cascade Mountians tends to be much drier. I'm assuming that "north Oregon" meant on the coast (very wet), or the Coast Range mountains (very wet), or maybe even the northern Willamette Valley (can be wet at times). This area can be very prone to rust, especially if the e-brakes were not used regularly. I'm assuming that the cables are rusty, and maybe even the brakes will need adjusting additionally. Pay real close attention to what datzenmike said, as he is probably spot on for where/what the problem is. Once you have the problem with the e-brakes fixed used them regularly and the problem (except for adjustment of the rear brakes) will be non-existent. Don
  15. Many years ago I saw a motor that sounded similar to yours that had about half a container of carb cleaner(?) poured down the throat of the carb while the motor was idling. It was poured just fast enough that the motor just barely was able to keep running while it was idling. Once the valves had been thoroughly coated with the cleaner a LARGE amount of the cleaner was then poured into the carb, killing the motor. The ignition was then turned off and the motor was left setting with the cleaner in the cylinders and all around the valves. After about 30 minutes (maybe less) the motor was started and it was run real hard (on the road) to get all the goo and carbon out of the motor. I was surprised at how well this worked to get the motor running real good again. I am thinking the valves were gummed up and sticking and this helped get the valves cleaned up. I don't remember many details since it has been so long. Probably since the late 60's, maybe mid 70's. It was a farm truck that didn't get used every day, so that is probably why the valves were gummed up. I'm not saying this is your problem, but it is something to check out. (I just read datzenmike's reply. What he says goes right along with what I'm wondering about, except that he is thinking possibly tight valves. Doesn't matter, it will give the same result, popping back.) Don
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