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About 620slodat

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Albany, OR (out of town)
  • Cars
    1973 620, 1994 K2500 Chevy, 1998 Astro, 1971 Toyota FJ 40, 2005 Buick Century (wife/daughter's car)
  • Interests
    Camping, hunting, fishing(occasionally)

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  1. Most likely the oil leak from around the head is from the valve cover gasket, not the head. My experience with motors older than these (the 50's) is that the valve cover is the most likely culprit. Replace the valve cover gasket and put the motor back in the pickup. You have already done a lot of cleaning of the motor (and replacing gaskets and fixing known leaks), make sure the head and valve cover area is very clean, drive it, and watch very carefully for oil leaks. I would guess that with replacing the valve cover gasket you will not see any leaks. The valve cover gasket is usually tightened too much, creating a leak. The gasket is thinned down too much, close to cutting it in half, or even cutting it in half in several places around the valve cover. It needs to be snugged down good, but not too tight. Don
  2. After doing some web surfing I found a website that I found very helpful. http://www.electricsubaru.com/vacuum.html This website gives part numbers for a Hella UP30 pump, wiring connectors, and vacuum switch. I also found this website https://www.hella.com/microsite-electronics/en/Vacuum-pumps-43.html for Hella vacuum pump specs. If you click on this link, then if you scroll down to just above the legal notice you will see three thumbnail pictures with captions. The center one is for the UP30/32, and clicking on it will rake you to the specs for the UP30/UP32. The Hella UP30 pump is not cheap at $260 (at Amazon), but is the best price I found for a new pump that was for sure a stand-alone vacuum pump. Through more web surfing I may come up with something I can possibly find in a wrecking yard. If so I will post the info here. This is partly for anybody that needs this information, and also for my possible future use. I will keep all the info that everybody has also posted on this thread. Don
  3. This may be the best solution. I didn't realize these motors had an electric fuel pump stock when I suggested an aftermarket electric pump. A momentary switch for the stock electric pump and bypassing the stock wiring would be an easy solution. Don
  4. Good to know DM. Thank you!! The parts used on OEM usually seem to be better than a lot of aftermarket items. The only question I would have at the moment is how quiet it is. Don
  5. Will do MikeRL411. Thank you for the heads up!! So far I have used several junk yard parts in my build, all Nissan so far. Do you by chance know the approximate year? I know there were Rally Sports in the earlier years. I had a 1969 Camaro, but it was not the Rally Sport so I'm not familiar with them. Don
  6. It sounds to me like you need a secondary electric pump. It will need to be flow on fail like the electric pumps on the 90's era Chevy and GMC diesel. These pumps are stock on them, are used as primary pumps, but will still flow fuel if they fail and the pump on the IP needs to take over. The pump probably should be wired so that when you turn the key to start the motor the pump will run, and then shut off when the motor starts and the starter is shut off. Flow on fail so that fuel continue to flow when the electric pump shuts off and fuel will still be pumped by the stock pump. The electric pump is a metal canister like a king sized fuel filter, with inlets and outlets on each end, so it would be easy to add in line just after the fuel tank. It will need to be wired through a relay that is triggered by the wire that triggers the starter solenoid. I think this would fill the fuel line faster so the stock pump will work quicker and reduce the time the starter is engaged. If you use the pickup/car as a daily driver it sounds like the electric fuel pump won't be needed. Don
  7. 620slodat

    SVO 620

    Idaho Hillbilly, I'm assuming the very first picture in your last post is of the interior of the cab you plan to eventually scrap. That picture is a great big help to me as it helps me compare cabs with the one I bought for parts and practice. The one I got has a very rusty floor, with several holes through it, so I don't mind using it for parts or practice. Time will tell if it has all the parts I need. Don
  8. DM, I'm willing to hear your reasons for this. Doesn't mean I agree or disagree with you. I just want to hear your reasons so I can evaluate them, along with all the rest of the information I have been given or found. Don
  9. Hooking an electric pump to the brake lights, through a relay, is something I never though about. Doing some thinking about it, and it sounds good so far since I have yet to think of any situation when you would run out of vacuum. It would also keep from having to wire in some kind of vacuum control system. I have found a couple different systems that have a built in vacuum pressure switch. Both are very good looking systems, and hook up to just 12V positive and negative and switched power, but are in the $350 and UP class so are out of my financial area. If anybody isn't concerned about cost they would take more scrutinizing to make sure they are reliable. If anybody else has experience with any kind of electric vacuum pump please chime in and let me know your experience. Don
  10. Wayno, I've got a diesel alternator (that came with the SD-22), although I haven't had it checked to see if it is any good. I can use it and it's built in vacuum pump initially, but my future plans call for adding items, which may go beyond the 60 amp capacity that it is supposed to have. I may need to go to a higher amp alternator, and alternators with a vacuum pump are usually very expensive. I'm just looking to the future at the moment. If I can afford it I may need to add a bit of amp capacity, and I'm trying to stay away from anything that needs a v-belt to drive it. My Chevy pickup has a power brake booster run by the power steering pump, and I like the system that Chevy has, but to put a similar system on the SD-22 would require adding a power steering pump.. The SD-22 doesn't have any power steering pump on it, and I plan to go to electric power steering. I do have an alternator from a 2000 Nissan Altima, but I don't know the condition of it or the amp capacity yet. IF, it is a good alternator, and has enough amp capacity, I will need a vacuum source to replace the SD-22 vacuum pump that is on the stock alternator. I also have found online a diesel alternator for an NPR diesel truck. It is 110 amp capacity, with a vacuum pump, for just over $100. It appears to be a direct fit for the SD-22 alternator, needing only an upgrade to a newer electrical plug from a newer Nissan. The only downside is the 12V positive lead comes out aiming directly into the block. But, is it Chinese? Would the Altima alternator be a good choice, with the addition of an electric vacuum pump? How good and reliable are electric vacuum pumps? How much would a good electric vacuum pump cost? That is why I need more information to be able to make an informed decision. Don
  11. I just recently learned there were electric power brake boosters for motors with low/no vacuum available. I have a diesel Chevy pickup, and am very slowly building a diesel Datsun 620 pickup, which has no vacuum for a brake booster. I'm using the internet to learn more about them, but I also need your first hand experiences. I want to learn as much as possible, so let me know your experience with an electric brake system. Availability, reliability, and cost are important to me. I don't know that I will go this way, but I can't make a truly informed decision if I don't know all about them. Mods, this might get a better response in the brakes section, but I thought I would try this first. If you feel that a better response would be given there it's O.K. to move this. Just let me know. Don
  12. I see no problem with replacing all fluids. Just keep a written record of all you do to the pickup (date and mileage), every time you do anything. This will make it easier on the memory. Don
  13. I don't have the alternator yet, but as soon as I get it I will do a write up. It may be at least after the new year as I will have to wait and see how much money I will have then. Don
  14. It's my understanding that because of the type of intake system used in the SD-22 it is not easily turboed. Look up wayno on this forum and use his diagram as he is one of the few who have successfully added a turbo to the SD-25. The SD-25 is a bigger version of the SD-22, and uses the same intake system. Don
  15. I spent some time looking at it last night, thinking about it over the last several days, and looked again this morning. With some minor modifications to the alt mount it looks like the alt can be dropped up to an inch and the incoming and outgoing oil to the vacuum pump will still work properly. The vacuum hose routing to the brake vacuum canister won't change much at all. The space between the steering box and the alt won't be affected much. And best of all, a little more room for a future turbo will be allowed. Moving the alt down just a bit should allow the 12V stud enough clearance to the boss on the block to clear the 12V stud. This is all good news to me as this will allow me to almost double the available amp capacity, and still allow me to use a vacuum brake set up. After spending a lot of time thinking and planning, this Isuzu alt should be a good improvement for me. Now, I just have to see if I can come up with the money this month. Don
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