Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

158 Excellent

1 Follower

About 620slodat

Profile Information

  • Location
    Albany, OR (out of town)
  • Cars
    1973 620, 1994 K2500 Chevy, 1998 Astro, 1971 Toyota FJ 40, 2005 Buick Century (wife/daughter's car)
  • Interests
    Camping, hunting, fishing(occasionally)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Madkaw, please let us know how this turns out. It sounds like we are wanting similar results, with different reasons. Don
  2. South Puget Sound, very much like the area I live in, although no ocean water here, and as wet from rain. Don
  3. First, I'm not a wiring guru. I can do wiring, but I have to study things a bit. However, I do have a 1973 620 (my Dad bought it brand new), built in July 1973. It is not running, and the wiring to the motor is not hooked up. Although it is in a tight spot I can get into the drivers door if you need any wiring info, particularly from inside the cab. I'm on here usually a couple times a day, and sometimes during the day also (retired). I see you are from Sps, Washington. The only place I could think of off hand that comes close to Sps is Spokane, but I couldn't think what that second "s" is for. I've been to Spokane several times over many years. My Grandfather lived there for quite a few years before he passed away. A pretty area. Don
  4. Thank You!!! Those pics give me lots of good information, especially the last one. The last two pics I never even thought about, but it gives me a real good perspective of the wiper motor. Pic 4 (D) and pic 6 show me something I never considered, the electrical connector is riveted to the metal body of the wiper motor, not hanging loose. Pic 4 shows that it is around 2 5/8ths from the mounting plate to the extreme edge of the electrical connector. That shows me I need one more measurement, from the firewall metal surface to the mounting plate where you are putting the end of the tape measure in pic 4 (D).. This measurement and the measurement of 2 5/8ths will get me the total depth of the wiper motor. I'm guessing the missing measurement must be around 5/8ths inch. After seeing your pics I can understand why you said measurement C was confusing. I think that with the new measurement, and the D measurement (2" plus 5/8ths for electrical) C won't be needed and I will have the all the needed measurements. Don .
  5. While I was feeding chickens I stopped at the cab shell to refresh my memory about the wiper motor mounting surface. The plan is to use the dimensions you provide, your picture, and make a wooden mock-up of the wiper motor so I can see what I am up against with using the AC unit, and see if it is possible. I spent many years as a custom cabinet maker/installer (ability to solve problems), so I am real hopeful about the possibility. Don
  6. The motor is an SD-22. I have the diesel motor, 5 speed transmission that came with the motor from the factory, a 1982 diesel frame I got from wayno, and a 1973 620 that my Dad bought brand new in 1973. The most that I need is the funds to complete the project, so it will be slow as I come up with the funds. Don
  7. RustedRails, can you help me out? This pic is really good for my purposes. I need some measurements if you are able to get them for me. The standard cab I am going to use still has the dash in it, and the King Cab I am using for mock-up is just a shell. With my daughters help I got the picture below. I am needing the total depth and extreme size of the wiper motor. The dimensions are the full depth of the motor from the surface it is mounted on to the extreme back edge of the motor, and the dimensions from the end of the bracket that holds the dash to the same points used for the above measurements.. With your help I can see if I can use the AC unit from the 95 Pathfinder. The wiper motor is the biggest fly in the ointment so far, and I need to see what I'm up against. Your help can save me a lot of time if you are able to get these dimensions.THANK YOU!! Don
  8. The ride in my Dad's 1973 620, and his 1967 Datsun pickup, was a bit rough as I remember. When he got the 1967 pickup it was broken in with a trip to Crater Lake, and this was with a home made camper shell on it. Home made is almost always heavier than what can be purchased commercially. Wayno, the 1994 Chevy 3/4 ton K2500 that I have is one of the better riding 3/4 ton pickups that I have ever had. My wife will ride in it occasionally, but she does complain about how it rides. I am hoping that before the winter rains start I will be able to take your offer. I just need something else to make the trip up there pay for itself. Don
  9. As far as advice is concerned, I did get great advice. Wayno, datzenmike, charlie69, Stoffregen, and even you, all gave me sound advice. I probably didn't initially give all that I was looking for. But, since I already have a heavy hauler, and many parts of the 620 will be from my Dad's pickup, I am wanting something that will haul only lighter stuff. And, my experience is only with the early 620. What I am looking for is a mileage maker that might haul a few tools on rare occasions, but mostly a mileage maker that will allow me to have a DD that I can afford to drive, and take my wife when she wants to go. One thing I really want to do is take up wayno's offer and know first hand what a 720 longbed diesel rides like. He lives probably 80 miles away, which is not very far for many people, but on my income it will take a bit of planning to do more than one thing per trip. If his pickup rides good enough with leaf spring suspension that I think my wife can take the ride it will save me a lot of work. But, I am ready to use the coils if need be. I already have a plan of attack for the leafs if needed. I just need an actual leaf spring vehicle comparison to see what it should ride like. Don
  10. I just checked the 1973 620, and it has a total of 5 leafs. The first has the eyes on it, the second and third are slightly progressively shorter and about the same thickness of the first leaf, the fourth is a little bit shorter than the third leaf but it is probably about three times the thickness of the first three, and the fifth leaf is thinner like the first three but much shorter than any of the first four. I just might take you up on the ride comparison if I ever get up your way. Riding in an early years 720 would be a clincher for me. I was just up there at the airport (twice) a week and a half ago. Our son and daughter paid for themselves and my wife to fly to the southern tip of Texas for a wedding. Otherwise I don't get up there very often, but if I do get up close then I will contact you and see if you have the time when I plan to be up there. Don
  11. Some very good information there Stoffregen. Thank you!!! If I use the rear suspension I am planning to use all that the Montero had for suspension, including the sway bar. Also, needing to start with a totally level frame is good info. I spent several years installing cabinets in expensive homes (stone countertops) so I know for sure what level means. I am aware that the Montero is a lot heavier than the 720, and the Montero coils vs the 720 leafs is also good information. I have never rode in a Montero, I have rode in a diesel 720 just once so I don't remember it, and many times a 1973 620 (which was stiff). The Montero had a third row of seats as an option, but the Montero that I got didn't have the third row in it, and the second row was setting in there loose and sideways. However, the interior is torn up just enough that just by a quick look at it I am not sure if it had the third row or not, and I have not spent any time looking through the stuff in there yet. At the moment I don't know if the third row came with a heavier spring or not, and I haven't come across any information that says that a heavier spring was used. I was recently able to take the rear tires off the Montero and get some accurate measurements. The rear axle is 5" wider than the 720 axle. The Montero wheels are inset deeper than most rear wheel drive vehicles, almost as much as newer front wheel drive vehicles, but I don't remember at the moment what the back set is. What I am planning is to soon put the Montero rear wheels on the 720 rear axle/frame and see what the width is, and compare that measurement to the 1973 rear axle and bed. Thank you for the pictures, especially the jack stands, as I am a visual person. Your first pic looks to me like you are working on a modified Toyota FJ40 frame, and the second pic is of a Toyota FJ40 cowl and front seat area, maybe the same frame as the first pic. Charlie, thank you for the info about bushings. I am planning to replace bushings, whether for coils or leafs. Replacing the front bushings is still up in the air. It all depends on the condition they are in compared to the difficulty of replacing them. Other items will probably be changed, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. Don
  12. Dad bought a 1973 620 brand new, and the surround around the tail lights was silver from new. Don
  13. DM, no you didn't come across as critical. That was meant for another person. As far as the first post not mentioning an end result, my apologies. The first post was put together real quick, for me (I usually take a bit of time to write something). All I was looking for was information, both for, and against, both leafs and coils for rear suspension. I just need information about them, and if that is a link to information on this site, or another, I will definitely read it. Wayno gave me good information that 620 leaf suspension for the early years of 620 was harsher than the early 720 suspension. Good information as my experience was with a 1973 620, and it was harsh enough that I think my wife would have problems with it. What I'm really wanting is a front and rear suspension that my wife will accept as good for her, and the fibromyalgia she is dealing with. The front suspension I think is good enough, except for the restriction that the torsion bar gives for exhaust systems. That spring rate information is real good as that will give me something to compare to the Montero. I'm real surprised that the 1973 max spring rate was close to double the 1982 2wd rate. I realize that was maximum, but the lighter end of the spring rate must have been close to double for the 620 over the 720. That says a lot to me. I just looked at my Dad's 620, and it was made in July of 1973. He had a 1967 pickup (I was in high school then) before the 1973, and as I remember it, they rode very similar. He usually used it for freeway driving, so I never saw it loaded very heavy, but he did haul some gravel with it. He used passenger car tires (4 ply rated), so they would show the weight before any springs did. Don
  14. Wayno, what you say is important to me because you have experience with a pickup on a diesel frame, (the frame I got from you is a 1982 according to Oregon DMV). It sounds to me like you used 4wd leafs in your diesel pickups. The pickup I have is a 1973, and as my memory tells me it rode very firm/rough. Because of what my wife is dealing with I don't want her to have to deal with that ride. Simply put, she won't ride in it very often, if at all, with the stock 1973 rear suspension in it. I want it to be comfortable enough for her that she will enjoy riding in it as I want it to become my daily driver. That is why when you say "even using 4wd leafs in the rear of my 520 and 521 kingcab the ride is smooth, I even notched my rear frame in both trucks because I lowered both of them," I will very carefully consider it. I had to lift the cab 2" to get the radiator/condenser package out of a 2000 Nissan Altima in there. For this reason I'm considering eventually using a 2" drop spindle, and maybe lowering the rear end also. Don
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.