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A guy named Rick

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    California
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    1986 720, 1973 240z

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  1. Ended bottom at 100 ft-lbs, upper at 70 ft-lbs, tightened brake caliper bolts like 36, steering mount to back of hub assembly about the same, ball joint mount bolts backed off to 36. Didn't want to over-tighten anything. Should I increase? I also didn't use any threadlock on anything.
  2. Fastboatman on Nicoclub had a write up, castle nut is 87-123 for bottom and 58-72 on top. Wonder how close to the upper end i need to be. I have bottom at 100 right now, 62 top
  3. Ok, so I'm good then right? I think I torqued the 4 bolts to about 45lbs. Didn't want to over tighten. What's spec for those 4, plus the steering linkage to backside of hub, and brake caliper to hub?
  4. Hoping to get the drivers side done tonight so any help is appreciated
  5. Metal ring I am talking about pictured on the ballpoint Holding it against the knuckle.. Sorry, I meant the knuckle. Not the lower control arm
  6. Or wait, I just thought about it.. Does it go on top of the boot between it and the lower control arm. It is molded on one side to fit snug in the opening of the boot.
  7. I'm having trouble uploading images. I am installing ball joints on my 720. I have the old ones out, but it looks like they had a washer on them where the dust boot would have gone, which was missing. There was a metal washer on the bottom of the lower control arm. I basically had to pry it off. The new Moog has a white ring that looks like that it would sit under the dust boot. Is this correct? K9045
  8. I wasn't even thinking the starter is the problem.. and yes it is a recent problem. My battery is from Walmart, less than a year. My alternator looks to be original, it had been tested earlier this year and was fine (according to O'Reilly auto parts) but I will have it tested again. I read somewhere if a battery is charged 80% or less, acid stratification can occur. This means that the electrolyte collects at the bottom of the battery, causing the upper half to be acid-poor. Acid stratification reduces the battery’s performance and may cause it to fail. I'm wondering if the cables I have neglected could have caused that to occur.
  9. Forgot to mention I have lights, fuel pump runs, I hear relays clicking on, but not enough juice to turn the starter at all. No stereo or clock, definitely no amp or alarm system. You may be right, time for new battery but why so soon? Something with my charging system must be killing the battery too early.
  10. So I had started noticing that the battery in my truck would get weak, especially after not driving it for a day or 2. Now it has gotten to the point that it dies completely overnight, even after having it charged up at Autozone and not driving it for a couple of days after. I had it charged Thursday night, only started it that day and the day after but didn't drive it, now it's dead again. I can hear the relays clicking off when turning the key, so I don't believe any relays to be sticking on. I have a corroded positive cable and the negative is a little corroded where it mounts below the thermostat, and also the thermostat does seem to leak a tiny bit (it causes the cable to get very sticky for some reason). The battery is only 6-8 months. Any ideas why this drainage is happening?
  11. Forgot to air them up >.< I probably was at 35 on a tire with max of 50, but the rims aren't as wide as the tire so they kind of bulge out over a little bit. Also I was about same height as with 800lbs. Not far off the bump stops either. The bed right behind the wheel opening was about 5 inches off the ground, maybe just shy of 5. Afterwards, I was about 9, 9.5 inches. Brakes? What brakes? My booster is bypassed. Hell I don't even know what the pads look like. Yeah, it was a bit scary 😳
  12. I just loaded up 1300lbs (mostly dirt) and took it 5 miles down the road to the dump. It did pretty well. Takeoff was a bit shakey if I didn't give it enough gas but I'm not used to that weight. I was 3960 in, 2660 out. It just cruised through town like it was on a Sunday drive.
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