Jump to content

A guy named Rick

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars
    1986 720, 1973 240z

Recent Profile Visitors

302 profile views

A guy named Rick's Achievements


Explorer (4/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges



  1. Yeah like mine, built in June of '85. I always tell the parts guy at the auto parts stores it's an '85. Makes it easier.
  2. So I didn't know if I should make an advert for a vehicle that's not mine, I found on Craigslist. But someone is selling an '85 4x4 in SoCal supposedly with the fuel injected 2.4 but I was under the impression those weren't until 1986. Anyways, here's the link. https://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/d/simi-valley-85-nissan-4x4/7352672994.html
  3. Wow I completely just realized I'm stupid. Under 2 turns means it's too rich. So I need to jet DOWN, not up. Hmm 🤔
  4. I saw that diagram earlier. Should I maybe remove the plug for the EGR and use it? I do have the vapor vent line hooked up.
  5. I am sitting at 1-3/4 now after fixing vac leak. It should probably be mentioned too that I capped off the vac lines to the EGR too now, so no T off of the vacuum advance line.
  6. ...gives me something more to re-do. Haha Well, I added loctite, added my gaskets, reset to factory settings and then adjusted. They're not kidding when mentioning it "may run like a tractor". I am now idling fine around 1 and 3/4 turns out from lightly seated, indicating i am lean. Before, with the slight vac leak, I was around 2 I believe. I know it was for sure 2 or more, obviously to compensate for the extra air leaking in. Should I jet up to 65 idle, and maybe 145 main? Or leave at 140, idle to 65, and mess with air correctors/emulsion tubes first? I just realized too that I capped off the T from the vacuum advance to the EGR, and also the line from EGR to the other round vacuum device above it. Thus, breaking the "do one thing at a time" rule.
  7. What elevation are you at, and also any mods to the engine or is it stock?
  8. My jetting is the fifth carb down, the 32/36 DGEV. Exactly like that, and I'm experiencing week feeling acceleration, but like I was saying I have vac leak to fix. Hey OP, how'd you go about installing the AFR gauge? I want to put one on my truck to help tune the carb. BTW, my elevation is less than 100 feet, and no dieseling out at all when shutting off
  9. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea for me to go back through the bolts on the intake manifold and put some on those too huh? I didn't use any when I had did the intake gasket. But yes I will use on the allen bolts too. Hopefully when I get it all back together it will run better. Like I was saying, with only the primary open it runs rather sluggish compared to stock, but not rough, just like it feels a little limp. I'm thinking leaning out from vacuum leak. Also I hear the carb sucking air when driving but not a whole lot happening you know?
  10. Some hand crafted gaskets made from rubber-fiber gasket material. Going to throw those on tomorrow with some blue threadlocker on the studs.
  11. Got home from work, went for a quick drive, and uh, it sounds like I lot of air being sucked in the carb when it's just the primary going. But man when you let the secondary open it comes alive. You get that angry intake sound people love when they put a cold air intake on. Maybe now I just need to work on jetting? Mains 140/140 Air correctors 170/160 Emulsion tubes F50 Idle jets 60/55 Pump jet 50 Float jet 2.00
  12. Quite similar, in angle, I need to get a little more upper pull on it because I'm able to still rotate it the tiniest amount that allows the idle to change. You may not be using the linkage that came with the carb huh? A lot of people swap the old linkage to it.
  13. This is my return spring rigged up currently. Definitely Roadkill style.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.