d.p Posted November 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 Was planning on doing them together. You are saying I can pull the drivetrain forward with the hoist which will give me more room to get those front shaft trans bolts? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 1 hour ago, d.p said: Was planning on doing them together. You are saying I can pull the drivetrain forward with the hoist which will give me more room to get those front shaft trans bolts? Yes that's basically the idea... 2 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 8 hours ago, d.p said: Anything I need to do the slave or can I just pull it off? And anything else to make pulling this fucker easier? Pull the starter or leave it? Leave the starter in and it will seem stuck but yank it hard and it should just disconnect. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 I pulled it already as I was planning on getting a Troy Ermish starter. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 1 hour ago, d.p said: I pulled it already as I was planning on getting a Troy Ermish starter. We need to start calling you Mrlittletanker.... The items you buy vs what you seem try not to buy is confusing.... Not my money, but I swear the one I got from autozone was a gear reduction starter.... it's been on the truck for 3 years now.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 Man I don't even know why I do the things I do lol. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 I have a Maxima gear reduction starter on my L20B. I figure if it's for a six cylinder it's good enough for my L20B. Pretty large. If I had a stock oil pressure sender it would be better. Goes almost to the engine bracket. I converted to side mount, the cables from a Chevy Lummina van were perfect for this. The ground goes right to the starter lug. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 TSI Automotive sells the same Troy Ermish starter I think 40 less. You don't need a gear reduction but most of these starters have been rebuilt numerous times by now. The TSI is a HI TORQ starter, should be about 200$. the O Rileys starter or AutoZone, don't seem to last but once I put a Hot start relay in they lasting longer. Maybe the key switch reisitance just made the selionoid look like it was going out and been pulling the starter prematurely. since you got the money I say get the NEW starter so they will still make them. When nobody buys them they will stop making them 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 I did not know that. Got a link to that starter on their website? Cant seem to find it. I have a pep boys/autozone starter which works but I figure while this shit is out I might as well replace it and keep whatever I pull as spares. Was thinking a koyo radiator as well and probably some other shit. So while I ponder more ways to spend $$$$ how do I detach the shifter from the trans? 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 @banzai510(hainz) this them? http://tsimportedautomotive.com/gearreductionstarters.html 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 The bottom of the shift lever is threaded and goes down the holes in the rubber cone washers Above. There is a washer and a nut to hold it on and compress the rubber. 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 9 minutes ago, d.p said: how do I detach the shifter from the trans? There should be a pin down there you can remove... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: The bottom of the shift lever is threaded and goes down the holes in the rubber cone washers Above. There is a washer and a nut to hold it on and compress the rubber. Oh ya no pin , forgot I hacked mine up.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 Ahh #17 has very small drift pins keeping it in place, I wouldn't mess with that one, but #19 can be removed and it let's you swing the whole thing out of the way.... 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 So this big flat washer with a tab at the bottom comes off and I can then unscrew it? 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Or do I just unscrew 4 from the bottom? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 You have to remove #4 to pull the shifter up and out. The other stuff is way too hard to get at with the transmission in. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Shiat that #4 is tight on there. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 It’s out my dudes. But fuck me if that coconut seat or whatever we it’s made out of doesn’t make a huge mess. All that’s left is to unbolt the trans and engine mounts and pull this fucker out. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 (edited) While you have the seat out vacuum out the cab. Baby Tanker!!! LOL Edited December 1, 2020 by Charlie69 1 Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 6 hours ago, datzenmike said: I have a Maxima gear reduction starter on my L20B. I figure if it's for a six cylinder it's good enough for my L20B. Pretty large. If I had a stock oil pressure sender it would be better. Goes almost to the engine bracket. I converted to side mount, the cables from a Chevy Lummina van were perfect for this. The ground goes right to the starter lug. We have been using a Wilson brand, rebuilt, factory Nissan gear reduction starter on all of our vintage race 240Z's. We tried other cheaper rebuilt 280ZX units, had two literally fall apart under the racing conditions, so we will only use the Wilson brand rebuilt...........available from NAPA, but most importantly listed under a commercial application ie a forklift or ?? Our guy at NAPA knows what we want, but I can get the actual Wilson part # if anybody needs it! 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 I just vacuumed it. Lol call me that but I do have a limit of what I am willing to spend on this mfer. What that limit is yet I don’t know but I am getting close to it now that I think what I could back if I ever sell it. Share the part number yenpit. Can I just remove the trans mount from the cross member? I don’t need to remove it from the trans itself to get it out do I? 2 Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 (edited) 23 minutes ago, d.p said: It’s out my dudes. But fuck me if that coconut seat or whatever we it’s made out of doesn’t make a huge mess. When I rebuilt my bucket seats I went to my local Move it yourself store and bought some of the plastic foam "cloth": that movers use to cushion dishes when they get packed. The sheets are pre perforated and are a good fit for the butt end of the bucket seat. Put the plastic directly on the springs, then the jute padding. Problem solved. Edited December 1, 2020 by MikeRL411 typo 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 (edited) Oh and pretty sure my slave popped out. Unless it’s just under pressure so the rod won’t retract. Might have to add that to the list of parts I need to buy. I may just have the seat redone while it’s out. Just another place to spend my dollars. Edited December 1, 2020 by d.p 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 On 11/29/2020 at 10:44 AM, datzenmike said: Starter has to come off. It sticks through the engine plate and it's in front of the flywheel and has to come away with the engine. Wire it up on the fender out of the way. I hate to disturb that copper nut and stud. The transmission switches, start signal and oil pressure sender wires can just be pulled up out of the way with the starter. Have a zip tie handy and clamp it on the slave so it can't push the piston out and fall on the ground. Some do some don't. My 710 does from the weight of the fluid above it in the line. Like the starter just tie up out of the way Take the distributor out, it's in a bad location to get bumped. 1 Quote Link to comment
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