My 1971 521

[d.p]

Old vs new PP:

 

 

[mainer311]

Accuracy of 0.0005”? Haha, yeah right.

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, d.p said:

Old vs new PP:

 

 

 

The release bearing doesn't push on the housing, it pushes on the diaphragm fingers. This is meaningless.

 

 

Bolt the PP onto the flywheel with the clutch disc. Place the collar and bearing against the diaphragm fingers and measure from where the clutch fork touches the collar down to the flywheel clutch disc surface. Should be 90mm. That's 3.52" if you have the correct collar.

 

The 90mm is constant for all the different diaphragm finger heights and keeps the clutch arm, the slave and the slave push rod always in the same stroke position. This is why there are dozens of collar lengths.

 

[d.p]

Not that it matters but It’s right around 3.5” give or take on my l16. L20b is still on the stand so I can’t measure that one but I will tomorrow.  I also read somewhere that the magic number is 92mm so if you have that with any combination it will work. 

[datzenmike]

2mm is hardly worth worrying about. Originally, about 15 years ago I was told 89.4mm and I wrote this down, so I'm sure there's some wiggle room.

[mainer311]

I don’t think anyone has mentioned this, but make sure you put some thick grease on the clutch arm pivot ball, or else that son of a bitch will squeak every time you push the clutch.

[d.p]

3 hours ago, mainer311 said:

I don’t think anyone has mentioned this, but make sure you put some thick grease on the clutch arm pivot ball, or else that son of a bitch will squeak every time you push the clutch.

Thanks I will try and remember to do that lol.  Back to the to collar bearing. Talking to crash again and is this the distance I should be measuring?  
 

back of the ear to the clutch face? 

[datzenmike]

I think so.

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, d.p said:

Thanks I will try and remember to do that lol.  Back to the to collar bearing. Talking to crash again and is this the distance I should be measuring?  
 

 

 

 

Also pack the cavity inside the collar (and the pivot ball) with thick bearing grease.

For the transmission spline, the two finger tips of the fork where they contact the collar and both ends of the slave push rod use white (lithium) chassis grease.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I thought I went thru this with the T/O bearing?????????????????????????????

 

its just a Plastic vent that broke off. Trans is STILL GOOD don't throw it away

Edited December 7, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[d.p]

10 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I thought I went thru this with the T/O bearing?????????????????????????????

 

its just a Plastic vent that broke off. Trans is STILL GOOD don't throw it away

Haha I was waiting for you to chime in. And I think you are right from all the reading and questions I’ve been asking.  Agreed on my 4 speed....I just try really hard not to hoard things.  

 

 

Edited December 7, 2020 by d.p

[banzai510(hainz)]

cant tell from the photos.

 

But to get the most lift use the fartherest extension on the beam. also you can shorten the chain up to get some extra lift. Use a shorter bolt for that can than the LONG one . so the bolt screws in flush is better. That long one that can slip and really hold less weight.

also be nice if you had the leveler that goes in between so one can slowly adjust the angle going out and in.  Someone can post a photo.

 

the T/O bearing. to revome it I put in a vice with the ring on top reasting and close the vice where the t/o collart is still loose. then I get a 22/24mm scocket that fits inside the bearing and hit the collar out.  then reverse but pressing back in side ways using the vice squeezing it to gether.  NOW don't be a MORON and put it backwards that I have seen.

Edited December 7, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[d.p]

5 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

cant tell from the photos.

 

But to get the most lift use the fartherest extension on the beam. also you can shorten the chain up to get some extra lift. Use a shorter bolt for that can than the LONG one . so the bolt screws in flush is better. That long one that can slip and really hold less weight.

also be nice if you had the leveler that goes in between so one can slowly adjust the angle going out and in.  Someone can post a photo.

 

the T/O bearing. to revove it I put in a vice with the ring on top reasting and close the vice where the t/o collart is still loose. then I get a 22/24mm scocket that fits inside the bearing and hit the collar out.  then reverse but pressing back in side ways using the vice squeezing it to gether.  NOW don't be a MORON and put it backwards that I have seen.

 

 

Its the furthest out and right up to my bumper to get it out.  I read that the lever requires more height which I don't have.  When I first pulled the motor the front was on jack stands so I took them out, removed the crank pulley and was able to get it out.  but you can see how much height I had left.  Also I could move the truck forward has my ceiling slopes down towards the middle of my garage to give me some more room.   Will try shortening the chain and using shorter bolts to see if I can't buy any more room.  Assuming I will need it with the longer trans?  

 

Edited December 7, 2020 by d.p

[banzai510(hainz)]

you don't have the use those flat plate on the chain hoise to the engine.  don't use a few link and just run the bolt thru the chain link to shorten the chain up when installing to save some height on the hoist beam

 

 

GOOOD     LUUUUCKK                  !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[greenthumb]

regarding the longer trans, you may find you need to slip the trans in first and lower the engine by itself and mate them in situ. 
I hate doing it that way, but my KA and 5 speed would not go in as a unit. Stupid non removable crossmember 🤬

[d.p]

32 minutes ago, greenthumb said:

regarding the longer trans, you may find you need to slip the trans in first and lower the engine by itself and mate them in situ. 
I hate doing it that way, but my KA and 5 speed would not go in as a unit. Stupid non removable crossmember 🤬

I thought about that but read it’s hard to get the trans and engine to mate up doing it that way.  
 

 

[jagman]

In my limited experience, I mate the trans and engine before I put them into the vehicle then take them apart again for the install.  I have done this with my english cars to make sure that the splines all line up and will go together with minimal effort.  I keep the tranny in gear for the reassembly to keep the splines lined up.

[mrbigtanker]

1 hour ago, d.p said:

I thought about that but read it’s hard to get the trans and engine to mate up doing it that way.  
 

 

You can do this,  as I have done it many times. You will swear a lot, but you will mate them together. Get a Jack under the tranny of course and if you have 2 people all the better if you are by yourself it will take a little back and forth action.

[datzenmike]

Like Ginger or Mary Ann there's really no wrong choice although some have their favorite. The transmission is a pain to lift up and into the engine and get at the bolts in the vehicle, but this is compensated for by not having to need a cherry picker, drain coolant, remove rad, wiring, throttle cable, exhaust, engine mounts, heater hoses, and fuel line(s)..... and then reverse the process. 

[greenthumb]

1 hour ago, jagman said:

In my limited experience, I mate the trans and engine before I put them into the vehicle then take them apart again for the install.  I have done this with my english cars to make sure that the splines all line up and will go together with minimal effort.  I keep the tranny in gear for the reassembly to keep the splines lined up.

Now that’s a good idea! I still need to pull my dummy out of the bay and install the true eng/trans and I’ll do that for sure. 
you’re right DP. It can be a bitch to do it that way, but the biggest issue is usually spline engagement. Jag man has that covered

[Charlie69]

2 hours ago, greenthumb said:

regarding the longer trans, you may find you need to slip the trans in first and lower the engine by itself and mate them in situ. 
I hate doing it that way, but my KA and 5 speed would not go in as a unit. Stupid non removable crossmember 🤬

This is one of the reasons I went to a 720 chassis under my 66 520.  Other reasons were no king pins, steering box and idler arm on the outside of the frame, no bell crank on the e-brake just cable to the back.

[d.p]

Man I don’t go no time for all that. There is a limit to what I will do with this truck and I think new drivetrain might just be that limit b

[Charlie69]

It is easy ask Wayno.

[mrbigtanker]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Like Ginger or Mary Ann there's really no wrong choice although some have their favorite. The transmission is a pain to lift up and into the engine and get at the bolts in the vehicle, but this is compensated for by not having to need a cherry picker, drain coolant, remove rad, wiring, throttle cable, exhaust, engine mounts, heater hoses, and fuel line(s)..... and then reverse the process. 

How is a pain to lift ? I use a normal jack and jack it up, the problem will be if you still have the torsion bars then there is a little less room to move around. But once its set its set. Also need to get the truck high off the ground to work easier. If i can do it any one can do it.

[datzenmike]

Lift by hand. My 521 I did by hand in the '70s on the lawn. I did my 620 but it sat so high you could almost crawl hands and knees under it. My 710 I wrestled it onto a hydraulic jack but was wobbly and I had the car on blocks and a trench in the dirt for added clearance. That kind of pain.