thisismatt Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 That's not coconut, it's wookie pubes 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: Lol I had the zip tie(s) ready to go but didn’t bother putting it on. Oh well Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 I just prefer saving the original equipment. The replacement stuff is crappy quality. Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Get a new slave cylinder. It’s like 20.00. There cheap and that’s the one time I was on a trailer or AAA because it popped out on the freeway and I was done. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 What’s a better exhaust manifold. L16 or L20b? And I ordered a new slave yesterday. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 L20b: 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Regarding priming the oil pump before I start this...I read that you can grind down an oil pump/dizzy shaft and spin it counter clockwise. Is that needed? I have a spare shaft and I can get it on a lathe to grind it flat but wondering if its even worth my time to do. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 If the L20B was rebuilt it will have oil or assembly lube all over the bearings. If it was run it would have oil on them. Starting doesn't impose much of a load on any of the bearings. Prime the oil pump and half fill the filter. Turn the engine over with the starter for 2 ten second bursts with the coil wire off. Then start it Further proof this is from a 610. All other L20B exhausts are 4 into one. Have a look and make sure there are two separate pairs of pipes. 1/4 and 2/3 Above... the left side has 1 and 4 on their own pipe and 2 and 3 on theirs. This enhances the scavenging effect of the exhaust pulses and separates each firing cylinder as far as possible from the next in order. The manifold on the right jumbles them together. I'm thinking you want to use this one... 4 minutes ago, d.p said: Regarding priming the oil pump before I start this...I read that you can grind down an oil pump/dizzy shaft and spin it counter clockwise. Is that needed? I have a spare shaft and I can get it on a lathe to grind it flat but wondering if its even worth my time to do. You could but Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Ty. Manifold off my l16 BARELY clears vent pipe so unless I get a new vent pipe that one is probably less than ideal. Lots of clearance with the L20b manifold. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 L20b manifold. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 L16 vs L20b manifolds.... would I really notice any difference going with either one? This motor is cammed and bored 40 over. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 23 minutes ago, d.p said: Regarding priming the oil pump before I start this...I read that you can grind down an oil pump/dizzy shaft and spin it counter clockwise. Is that needed? I have a spare shaft and I can get it on a lathe to grind it flat but wondering if its even worth my time to do. Just fill the pump when you install it... If you really wanna prime it by spinning it dont waste a spindle drive just get a piece of round bar that fits and grind flats on it.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Also I'm guessing the spare spindle is from the L16, it wont be long enough... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 It is and they are the exact same length..9” one with blue tape is from that spare l16. At this point I’ll have 3 spindles and not trying to hoard parts. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 20 minutes ago, d.p said: It is and they are the exact same length..9” one with blue tape is from that spare l16. At this point I’ll have 3 spindles and not trying to hoard parts. And the other one is from an L20b? I could have sworn the L20b used a longer spindle shaft..... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Guess I'm wrong.... Quote from another thread from datsunmike.... All L16/ L18 and L20B spindles will fit if anyone has one. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Yup, came out of the l20B that is pictured above. And I read that as well but I have also read that they are same length across 16,18 and 20. Never had confirmation of that but seeing as I have one from an L16 and an L20B and they are identical I would tend to believe they all use the same length. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 (edited) Also that L20B vent pipe wouldn't work on my block because my vent hole is parallel to the ground vs perpendicular on the later L20Bs. So unless I am robbing myself of HP by going with the L20B manifold I think I will just go that route. Talking specifically about this one (glad I didn't buy it): Edited December 1, 2020 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 24 minutes ago, d.p said: It is and they are the exact same length..9” one with blue tape is from that spare l16. At this point I’ll have 3 spindles and not trying to hoard parts. Still it's not a cheap part to come by, modifying a piece of round bar takes only a couple minutes to make by hand vs trying get It turned down on a lathe... 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 1 minute ago, Crashtd420 said: Still it's not a cheap part to come by, modifying a piece of round bar takes only a couple minutes to make by hand vs trying get It turned down on a lathe... True. Modify with a grinder and just use the shit from Home Depot? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 (edited) 12 minutes ago, d.p said: True. Modify with a grinder and just use the shit from Home Depot? Basically, just use the spindle for measuring, go a little smaller and you wont have to worry about centering the tab... there is also a diameter in the cover you dont wanna mess up.... An old long flat ead screw driver would also work.... Edited December 1, 2020 by Crashtd420 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Prime the pump before installing, pull the valve cover, pull the coil wire (no spark), crank the engine over while watching for oil coming from the cam tower bearing area. After you have oil from all cam towers replace valve cover & coil wire and start the engine. This is why engines are assemble with assembly lube. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 When you say prime the pump that simply means fill it with oil? I lathered assembly lube all over the rings, cam, lash pads and so forth when I put it together. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 I just filled my new pump with oil, but I didn't take the rest of the engine apart. If I were you, I would fill it, and then prime with with the above method. If you end up modifying one of the drives, just keep it in your "Datsun tools" bag. We all have one. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 If this one has the 1/4 and 2/3 pipes separate, run it. Grind the flashing off the casting and dent the tube for more clearance Don't bother spinning the oil pump with a modified spindle. Just crank the engine over for 20-30 seconds with the starter with the coil wire off. My Z24 sat out on the lawn for 3+ years and when I changed the main and rod bearings they were covered with oil. 2 Quote Link to comment
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