My 1971 521

[d.p]

50s today but all that stuff is in a conditioned space so not exposed to the elements.   I’ll try and soak them. 

[bilzbobaggins]

51 minutes ago, d.p said:

Also anyone have brakekleen spray just stop working? I swear they only some of it out of The can.  Make you buy more. 
 

every single one of these mfers has fluid in it but won’t spray. 
 

 

 

Brakleen is utter garbage anymore in my opinion.  I no longer use it due to never getting all the product out.  I dont waste the propellant by holding the can at the wrong angle and wasting the propellant.  

 

I was using the advance brand.  With the discount I was getting the larger can for 2.24 a can.  I was getting almost all of it out of every can as well.  Very rarely was any left over.

 

  Then I tried the walmart brand.   1.97 a can.   Never had a can leave a drop in it.   I hate buying shit from them but its cheaper and works.   

[d.p]

No shit? Was heading to Lowe’s which is right by Walmart so maybe I will pick some up from there. 

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

Maybe a gasket from nissan is NLA but you can still get a gasket....

 

True. Or make one.

[jagman]

I buy mine at Advance Auto and complained about this problem.  The store manager will replace those cans that will not spray properly.  I have returned 4 pb blaster cans and 2 of brakleen this year.  Check with your supplier and see if they have the same policy.

[datzenmike]

Were they left outside for the winter. I find the propellant leaks out. Might even say on the label protect from freezing temperatures.

[d.p]

They are brand new from Amazon less than a week old. Can’t return them but can probably get a refund if I complain.  

[Charlie69]

On 11/26/2020 at 3:34 PM, d.p said:

Nice I got some of that bbq high heat black paint.  Did you media blast it first? 

Sand blasted to get all the crap off.

[d.p]

Well today is the day I pull this mfer.  What a difference an impact wrench makes.  Fuck me for using ratchets and sockets on the intake and exhaust manifold bolts so many times.  
 

Also super glad I had them out a flange on my exhaust to make it easier to get out without having to detach it at the manifold. 
 

 

[d.p]

Anything I need to do the slave or can I just pull it off? And anything else to make pulling this fucker easier? Pull the starter or leave it? 
 

 

[datzenmike]

Starter has to come off. It sticks through the engine plate and it's in front of the flywheel and has to come away with the engine. Wire it up on the fender out of the way. I hate to disturb that copper nut and stud. The transmission switches, start signal and oil pressure sender wires can just be pulled up out of the way with the starter.

 

Have a zip tie handy and clamp it on the slave so it can't push the piston out and fall on the ground. Some do some don't. My 710 does from the weight of the fluid above it in the line. Like the starter just tie up out of the way

 

Take the distributor out, it's in a bad location to get bumped.

[d.p]

Thanks now how I’ve the driveshaft out? Just the 4 bolts at the diff? Should I drain the trans first? And do I need to disconnect the carrier bearing bracket? That appears to be a bitch to get to 

[jagman]

I would drain the tranny if it is like the 720.  The drive shaft seal holds the gear oil in and once it is removed the stuff pours out all over you and the floor.  Easier to get off the floor! 

[datzenmike]

The 521 has a bolt in spline, just separate from the driveshaft. Leave driveshaft in truck. You can leave the oil in if you choose, it can't get out.

 

[d.p]

Say what Mike? I have to get it shortened so I assume the entire thing has to come out.  280zx 5 speed is going in its place. 

[d.p]

Are you saying if I separate the drive shaft from the front where it attaches to the trans it won’t leak? 

Edited November 29, 2020 by d.p

[datzenmike]

11 minutes ago, d.p said:

Say what Mike? I have to get it shortened so I assume the entire thing has to come out.  280zx 5 speed is going in its place. 

 

Probably easier to take engine/transmission out..... then do the drive shaft. You only need the front half of the 2 piece driveshaft shortened. Separate it just behind the carrier and leave the back half on the truck. Unbolt the carrier support and lift it out. Mark the front and rear drive shafts so they go back in in the same orientation. 

 

 

10 minutes ago, d.p said:

Are you saying if I separate the drive shaft from the front it won’t leak? 

 

Yes. Once the front drive shaft is separated you'll see the nut that bolts the spline to thew mainshaft of the transmission

[d.p]

leave the front half of the drive shaft attached while I pull the engine and trans? The detach once it’s out of the truck?

[datzenmike]

Once the front drive shaft is separated you'll see the nut that bolts the spline to the mainshaft of the transmission

 

 

You'll need this spline so loosen it on the truck, would that be easier? Unbolt completely when out. Even if you drain the transmission it will drip all over so leave spline removal till out and on the ground.

 

Once the spline is removed it can be used on the shortened drive shaft, but first the hole covered by the nut needs to be plugged to keep the oil in. I think a 40mm core or frost plug with some sealer does the trick.

 

[d.p]

I disconnected the shaft at the carrier bearing and will try to pull it all out through the engine bay.  
 

[datzenmike]

Disconnect behind the transmission or you'll be pulling a sausage train out with the engine.

[d.p]

Lol. I thought you said leave the front half connected but I will disconnect it from

the trans side as well.  Doesn’t look like much room to disconnect it from that side.  

any tips?  

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

Yes. Once the front drive shaft is separated... FROM THE TRANSMISSION... you'll see the nut that bolts the spline to thew mainshaft of the transmission

 

 

Yeah that helps

[d.p]

Got it.  Those carrier and shaft bolts were the biggest bitch.  Not looking forward to the front four.  
 

Those, trans mount bolts and the engine mounts all I got left then I can pull it out.  Done for the day and will revisit sometime this week.   

[Crashtd420]

18 minutes ago, d.p said:

Got it.  Those carrier and shaft bolts were the biggest bitch.  Not looking forward to the front four.  
 

Those, trans mount bolts and the engine mounts all I got left then I can pull it out.  Done for the day and will revisit sometime this week.   

 

Are you doing the motor first by itself or with the transmission?

Either way once you start pulling them out it should give you more clearance to get at the flange bolts easier....