jagman

Are the later models such as the d21 equipped with 15" rims and are they the alloys or just steel?

I know that this has probably been covered before but I am looking for 15" wheels for mine. The 14" tires are becoming difficult to find in an aggressive tread. Any recommendations as to what rims will fit?

All the harness checked out. I had 12 volts to the fuses, 12 volts to the switch, new bulbs, changed out the relay and the right side came on. Flipped to high beam and two lights died but one on left came on. Started over from the battery checking wire and connections. saw a fuse holder on the red wire and promptly broke the fuse pulling it apart. Replaced it with a 15 amp mini and reconnected the wire to battery. I charged the battery turned on the lights high and low beams. I have no idea what the fix was. The wiring loom is original as far as I can tell. THE GREAT UNKNOWN has bekond. Thanks Mike Steve

Nathan, If it is a rod and you have been having blow by problems you want to have a machine shop either bore or hone the block. They all have access to top of the line rods, pistons, bearings and rings. Check with a good machine shop for pricing. A piston slap can sound like loose rod too! When I got my chysler straight 8 disassembled we thought the pistons were swapping holes they were so loose.

Vacuum grease can be used to replace the O-ring for a water tight seal. Bear tallow has become hard to get in a tube.

I followed your advice Mike and I am replacing all the bulbs. Thanks Dim and None! Steve

I have an interesting problem. Using low beams I have two of the four lights as O X O X , when I switch to high beams I get X O X X , where O is on. I have checked for 12 volts at the switch and have it there. I have switched the relay with no change. My dash light for high beams / head lights does not work either. I am getting only 6.5 volts at the low beam lights. According to the manual there should be a ground wire from the headlamp relay but I can't find where it goes to the frame. Any help would be very welcome.

I just remembered what the thing in the big can that goes back and forth is, a diatrump.

Hi Mke, I admit to being a dinosaur when it comes to taking pics and trying to send them. The vacuum advance has a barb on the side next to the distributor and one on the other side of the big round can (I have forgotten what the membrane in there is called). I have a vacuum line to the outer one and it goes to the carb If you have access to a B210 manual or someone does it might help me figure where the other was originally connected and if it makes a difference. Thanks again, Steve

On my A15 vacuum advance I have two hose barbs for vacuum lines. One line must go to the intake manifold but where does the other line go? Do I need both?

I had the same problem with my 720 not starting at times. It got to every other time and multiple key clicks. The starter tested at Advance Auto as good. I took it to my starter rebuilder and they rebuilt it. Works great now. Take it to a rebuilder while it's out it may be bushing wear. That's what was wrong with mine.

If you want them to be consistent build a jig to 1 make sure your angle is right and 2 to clamp the piece for your welding.

My background is financial operations. I also work as a poll worker and have seen the voting process up close and personal. The voting process is as secure as any double count and well supervised financial operation in a bank. If you believe otherwise I have a bridge you'll want to buy.

When you borrow against real estate the higher the value of the asset - the lower the rate of interest due to the lower risk of default. With insurance you lower the value of the property and are more cheaply able to insure to 80 or 90 percent of stated value. One statement for the banks and another for the insurance companies. It's nice to know that he is cheating everybody not just the contractors that built the properties. At least he is consistent.