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About jagman

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Claudville, southwestern va
  • Cars
    riley, jags, la salle, jensen, 720's, chrysler
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  1. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    Thanks to you that job is now complete!!!!
  2. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    Datzenmike I seem to have misplaced your description of the oil pump shaft position to set the distributor. I remember the 11:00 oclock but don't remember which halfmoon is to the right. Please tell this dummy one mo time? Thanks
  3. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    Thanks for the torq specs and the info on the oil pump. I have the new engine partially assembled. I will torq the pan bolts and install the oil pump and distributor soon. As with all my projects some bolts seem to have wandered off so I need to find them before I complete the install of the timing (or is it timming) cover.
  4. jagman

    No Heat!

    I had a similar problem with a heater on my beater. I reversed the flow to the heater by disconnecting the heater hoses from the engine and used a garden hose to check flow through the heater valve and core. If you have a garden hose nozzle that fits the heater hose it makes less of a mess. If no flow, bypass the valve and try again. It will be either or both but you will be able determine if it's one or both using this method of elimination.
  5. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    Again I misspoke . The hose goes from the thermostat housing to a fitting on the intake manifold beneath the carb and from there has a hose going to the block and the heater. The hitachi oil pump arrived today. Charlie69 sent me the torque specs I needed so I will spend some quality time in the shop tomorrow.
  6. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    Yes. I misspoke It has 8 plugs and is a z24. You have now an indication that I don"t multi-process or have a memory worth a s--t! However, I have sent my starter and alternator to the rebuilder for an update since I have no idea how many miles/hours are on them. I will need some info on the bypass hose that goes to the carb from the thermostat housing. The autoparts stores here have a hose that they say fits but is a 1/4" too large. Rock Auto has a hose they say is 1" in diameter but is this the right hose? Thanks Steve
  7. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    I bought the Haynes manual for the 720 and finding that the torque specs are not easy to find and in some cases are confusing. I cannot find the torque settings for the cam tower bolts anywhere. The book has an entry for cam nuts? Does anyone have a definitive listing of torque specs for the KA 24? Thanks!
  8. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    OK! I ordered the oil pump today. As of now I have the old engine disassembled for removal from the truck. I hope to pull it this weekend and begin assembly of the "new" engine. I will undoubtedly have more questions as I get farther along. One I have now is the hose mounted from the water pump outlet to the intake manifold and the heater. Can this be disconnected and the heater hose run from the block line without causing a problem? If not, does anyone have a single outlet fitting to replace the multi outlet?
  9. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    Where do I get a KA pump and does it have part number? I am also sending the alternator and starter out for a refresh.
  10. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    Hi Grannyknot, I usually use brakeclean to remove the machining oil and 170 lbs of air to blow out all the oil and water passages. I have found that the brakeclean gives me a good surface for repainting the block and head. I don't do many engines and if this is not good practice let me know. I also use a 15w-40 oil for assy lube when I install the pistons and con rods. I am thinking of using 15w-40 Rotella oil for the running engine. Do you have another oil you have found to work?
  11. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    Got the engine block and head back today and have the block on the engine stand. Reassembly will begin shortly. I noticed that the pistons are dished but I will check them against the originals before I install them. The head and block were shaved 25 thou, and block bored 20 over, the crank is polished not ground so is original spec. No new cam but the original is within spec. He tried to get me a new one but they are not available thru his parts sources. Other parts like the timing stuff is part of the kit as are the gaskets. Oddly enough it also comes with a new oil pump.
  12. Crashtd420, I had no choice but to remove the wedge setup in order to get the hydraulic wheel cylinder into the drum. The original setup was full mechanical with the wedge driving the shoes apart and the ebrake cable just engaged the rear brake wedges. I will check to see if I have clearance to put a rotor on the drive shaft just forward of the diff. My 48 chrysler has a tranny brake on it but it is a band brake and I know I don't have the mounting or clearance for anything similar there. Good suggestion!
  13. Hey Wayno, The e-brake on the Riley was a cable to a swing arm that rotated a wedge in the drum to apply the brake. Now that I have deleted the mechanical shoe wedge I have no way to apply brakes with a cable unless I can come up with a way to lock the rear brake until it is released.
  14. I have engineered the rear brakes and have converted to full hydraulic. I am now trying to mount the master cylinder without changing the pedals for the brake and clutch in the car. I am wondering what to do about the e brake though. I have been trying to find a valve I can put in the rear brake line to act as an e brake. If you have any ideas I would welcome them.
  15. jagman

    Rebuild begins!

    My machinist told me he has overbored the block 20 thou with pistons to match. The rest of the kit is on order which I assume is comprized of the valve guides and valves. I am waiting for him to let me know how extensive the kit is.
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