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Everything posted by yenpit

  1. www.kfvintagejdm.com here in Florida should have them! We have used three of his 240Z floor pans "sets", including his lower front fender patch panels for the Z & they are excellent fit & quality! He has sent me some of the 510 panels for me to see, but we have not installed any yet. I expect the 510 panels to be just as great as the Z panels! TJ Denver CO
  2. Curt, as the pic that I sent you before shows, my 1980 720 L20B cast bracket holds both the AC compressor (lower) & the air pump (upper). My particular truck did not have the air pump on it, perhaps removed, but the mounting boss is there on the bracket. As I stated above, there must be a NON AC bracket, as the factory AC was an option. I have an L16 block, so I can hold the L20B bracket up to the block to check bolt pattern, but iirc the bolt patterns are different on the block............ TJ
  3. yenpit

    Hood release cable

    Sounds like your latch needs cleaning, greasing & adjusting! Could be the latch on the hood shut panel OR the adjustable striker on the hood. Just because a cable is longer, shouldn't cause an issue, unless it is kinked/bent at some point.
  4. I think I have an L16 emission air pump bracket, but it is welded steel plate, not cast. Also, don't think it bolts up to the L20B..........?? The L20B cast bracket that I have that we talked about, is both AC & emission air pump. So there must be a NON AC cast bracket off of the 78-80 620/720 L20B??
  5. Emission air pump or AC compressor bracket?? TJ
  6. I have a stack of sunvisors, but every single one has oxidized hardware...............the J hook rod & the 3 per side screws. The chrome was so THIN from the factory, that it barely protected the metal! The long rocker panel trim is now available in reproduction out of Australia............haven't seen any suppliers here in the States offering them. If you want function over originality, I install late model Subaru Mazda Honda Toyota rear view mirrors. Here in the States, the 3 screw mounting was Federally mandated, so almost every other imported car (not trucks), with the roof mounted mirror (not glass mounted), are the same 3 screw mount. They are "breakaway" mirrors, so I grab the mirror stalk firmly, give it a pull/yank, it POPS! off in your hand, then be sure to grab the 3 screw mounting plate! These mirrors look good. The original 510/1600 mirrors were very cheaply made & get sun baked, so hard to find good clean ones! Hope some of this info helps! TJ
  7. Crazy, cuz we buy parts for other cars out of the UK often & shipping costs are not that bad. I'm afraid it is what it is from the USA to the UK, cuz of the bulk of the package. If you get some other 510 guys to buy the same (I know, not many 510's in the UK!), the spoilers would "stack" together, so the size/dimensions of the package would not necessarily increase with more of them. The weight would increase marginally cuz only fiberglass, but the bulk/dimensions of the package are the big issue! FYI Troy Ermish is on his way to Road America right now, loaded with 510 vintage race cars, so if you inquire, you may not get a response right away. He should be back in CA mid next week..........only reason I know, is cuz I usually go to the same event.........😐
  8. My co-worker at the time & I always say hello via text etc on the anniversary, remembering that day. RIP 🙏
  9. If the ball type linkage connections you are referring to are like the factory USA spec Hitachi linkage at the firewall, yes, carefully pry apart. There is a tiny hole on the back of the plastic ball cup..........you can squirt some WD40 around it, hope some gets thru the hole, which will lubricate & perhaps allow it to pop off easier. I always lightly grease mine when re-assembling! If your Mikuni set up has the aftermarket metal type of ball/socket, I think they had a small spring steel clip, but same idea........yes, carefully pry apart!
  10. Yup...heavy duty shipping tube. I'll see what I have left, will let you know!
  11. yenpit

    chevy 350 swap

    2012 price, based on post! Yes, the CA18DET turbo engines WERE cheap back then, but either can't find that one today cuz inventory all used up, or twice that now! My buddy has two 510's with the CA18DET's 😎
  12. My Dad worked at the Nat'l Archives for 35 years, in the Presidential Libraries division, from LBJ through I think Reagan. He must be rolling in his grave over this mess............😒
  13. You will need to CNC the top layer of plastic out, cuz the "Z" is indented, not raised. Yes, I have planned to do this too! I might still have a set of these, will look! If I do, I can get my boss to CNC the center down..........not CNC it out, just down until the "Z" is gone. He could even create a perfect circle around the circumference of the "Z", not all the way out to that black indented "ring". PM me if interested! TJ Denver CO
  14. Wow, I never went back to the beginning of this thread, which Mattndew76 first initiated in Feb 2020! 😎 Gone a long way, with LOTS of changes & LOTS of input! Who knew we would be where we are! 😐
  15. I bet u-joint axles would hold up just fine with an L20B AND some "spirited" driving. Yes, you can simply upgrade later!
  16. Subbie DID make a 4.11!! That's a no brainer to me.............yes, those later Subbie R180's are easily had & I think the custom stub axles are available from a couple different sources! And the fact they do make the 4.11 is killer! The earlier Subbie R160's are really getting hard to find. I'm in CO where they sold lots of Subbie's throughout the 80's & I haven't found an LSD in at least 3-4 years in the junkyards..............
  17. The top trans is a Z 4speed, easily identified by the 6 bolt plate on top of the tail housing, in front of the shifter. None of the 5speeds had that plate. The other trans looks like a second or third generation 280ZX 5speed, identified by the SINGLE forked ear, but we can not identify the speedo pinion housing bolt location (12 or 6 o'clock?), as iceman pointed out. I think this one is the third generation late 280ZX 5speed, cuz I think I see it has the small 2 bolt plate on the drivers side of the tail housing.........?? That 2 bolt plate was an access hole to get to the then new reverse lock out.
  18. All Datsun R160's (510) & R180's (Z car) had a BOLT IN stub axle. All 84-89 Subbie's had a similar BOLT IN stub axle, but you will need to use your existing 510 stub axles. Datsun Competition offered an R160 4.11 clutch type LSD diff, sold over the parts counter, never offered in a production car. That said, they are kinda rare, hard to find. The 84-89 Subbie turbo R160 clutch type LSD units bolt straight in to the 510, again, using your existing 510 stub axles. Pretty sure Subbie only offered 3.7 & 3.9 in LSD, never the 4.11 in LSD. The early Subbie LSD's are getting hard to find. If you find the same 84-89 generation Subbie R160 4.11 OPEN (very common in non-turbo AUTOMATICS), you can swap the 3.7/3.9 LSD carrier unit into the 4.11 diff. This way, you do not necessarily need to shim for proper lash. If you do it the other way, swap a 4.11 ring & pinion into the 3.7/3.9 LSD diff, you MUST properly shim for lash, otherwise you risk premature wear by not having the lash set up! Around 1990, Subbie switched to the SNAP RING style stub axles, thus you would need to purchase the custom made 510 style stub axles with the snap ring. The 70-83 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX R180 open diff's all bolt right in to the 510. You would use the Z car stub axles, not the 510. The 75-83 280Z 280ZX R200 open diff's are overkill for a 510 & much heavier than the R160 or R180 diff's, unless you are running a big power turbo swap and always running your 510 really hard. We run the R180's in our full blown vintage race 240Z's............again, we think the R200's are overkill & they are much heavier. I don't think in the 6++ years of balls to the wall vintage racing, we have ever blown up an R180........they are stout! The current common diff swap is to use the later Subbie R180 viscous or Torsen LSD diff's, but you must purchase the custom 510 style stub axles with the snap ring. I don't think the later Subbie R180's ever offered a 4.11 ratio...................I think you are limited to only two ratio's...........?? Unless you are hard on your car, doing hole shots & burnouts, the stock 510 u-joint axles should hold up just fine. Always a good idea to replace the u-joints & have the axles balanced, but not imperative. We DO run CV axles in our vintage race 240Z's & most guys running any combo of turbo engines in their 510's are typically running CV axles. Pretty sure I got that all correct!
  19. Nice welding! 😎 I've seen absolutely horrible welding in some swaps!
  20. Maybe a backyard mechanic at $1-2k or if you are just buying parts & do it yourself. These days, a proper full on rebuild, from a reputable shop, will likely cost you $4000-8000k. A full on race rebuild is closer to $12000-15000k 😣 Nuthin' is cheap any more!!
  21. Our USA spec 1970 first 6 months of production, had it own wiring harness...........IIRC from 10/69-6/70. My buddy's early 1970 shorted out at the headlight switch & burned the harness out to the fuse box! I tried to modify a later 1970-1972 dash harness to work, but was not successful. It took me 6 months to locate the correct early 1970 harness, by part #, but plugged it in, replaced the H/L switch & off it went!
  22. Also messaged you on the510realm! I have a good 510 mirror assembly, no damage but needs glass & paint. PM if interested! Sorry, I do NOT have any passenger side mirrors!
  23. Sounds like you want THE correct 510 mirror.................that one on Dallas CL will not fit correctly. I might have a good solid one, that likely needs paint, will look today........... TJ
  24. I should have a pair (they are handed!). PM if interested! TJ
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