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yenpit

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About yenpit

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver Colorado
  • Cars
    1972 510 4dr project, 2000 Impreza Outback

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  1. If you are going to sandblast your OE hardware to retain the OE hex head sizes etc, you must use a less aggressive GLASSBEAD media.......not aluminum oxide or any of the aggressive media's! Glassbead leaves a much smoother surface, so the silver OR yellow zinc plating will be shiny like it's supposed to be. If you use a more aggressive media, the finish WILL be dull! If the hardware is heavily oxidized or pitted from rust, you really can't get past that...............it will look kinda crappy once re-plated. Every 510 or Z that I strip for parts, I toss EVERY good OE nut bolt washer bracket etc in a box & then send out most of it for yellow zinc re-plating........but I do keep some USED "raw" dirty hardware for Ratsun projects that don't need nice clean re-plated hardware! Most hardware stores do NOT offer the Japanese standard hex head sizes.............they are typically one mm bigger ie OE 10mm would be 11mm, OE 12mm would be 13mm etc etc. We race 240Z's, and sometimes we need every second in the paddock to repair something. We re-plate OE hardware to retain the OE hex head sizes, so we don't have to GUESS what size wrench/socket we need. Sure, there are components that require Grade 8 etc, or sometimes we will use SAE hardware on the aftermarket RACE parts, but we can usually identify those quick enough! We have a specialty hardware supplier here in Denver called AAA Metric.........they DO offer most of the OE Japanese standard hex dead sizes, but expensive! You can still buy SOME of the OE hardware from Nissan, but much of it has recently gone to SILVER ZINC instead of the mostly OE yellow zinc. Riley at Lynchburg Nissan in VA 800-443-2117 has alot of the OE hardware available, but you need to order by size, NOT application. Good luck! TJ
  2. Yup part #FW204 is the aftermarket glass.........works fine!
  3. Nice find...............hope the paintwork is good! PS you will need to pull the back glass out to install a new headliner.........install headliner BEFORE installing the front & rear glass! If you don't already have, but a NEW rear glass seal! 😎
  4. Was at Pull n Pay Aurora. That was 2++ weeks ago.............. Sorry I can't help......we are just now finishing up a Ferrari P4 replica build TONIGHT, for a car show at the movie theater TOMORROW, for the Ford vs Ferrari movie! Then I fly out Monday on business! Good luck! TJ
  5. yenpit

    BadPenny LIVES!!!

    Just WOW!! 😎
  6. I have two 69 column covers but both have a piece broken out, same spot........would one help with the project? TJ Denver CO
  7. If you wanted to keep the AC & use it, the most important component is the under dash unit. FROM that unit out into the engine compartment is basically universal fit AC components, including a condenser. If you have a basic understanding of the system, you just need to buy what parts would work for you. We did exactly that on a 240Z.....kept the underdash unit, had hoses made from unit out to a universal fit receiver drier & compressor, used a NEW late model Sanden compressor (way more efficient than original HUGE York unit!!), a 280X aluminum block mounting bracket (lower drivers side of engine), fab'd up a simple spacer to mount compressor to bracket, & a modified 280X belt tensioner. We had the original condenser, so just used that, but you can measure & buy a universal fit. Blows c-c-c-cold! If you don't want to use the AC, carefully pull out the underdash unit & sell it! You can give the buyer all the other stuff, but again, most needs to be replaced with universal fit parts anyway!
  8. If the sending unit is old, the "rivet" electrical connection that goes THRU the unit loosens up over time & leaks. You can clean the crap out of it, seal it with something unaffected by fuel & try to carefully "pinch" the "rivet" tighter again. Unfortunately the tank units are NLA NLS, and good USED ones are getting harder to find!
  9. 😎😎 Wow, great video clip!! 😎😎
  10. Have no idea how difficult these are to find, but there is a 1985 720 4x4 in one of our local PullnPay self service yards. Problem is it's self service, so they won't pull it & I simply don't have time to pull it for you right now. Do you have any buddies in Denver region that could help you with it? TJ Arvada CO
  11. ..........don't forget that the 280ZX (NOT 280Z!!) struts DECREASE the track width (can't remember how much, maybe 1/2 inch per side??), thus the FRONT wheel offset/backspacing can be different. Like datzenmike said, decide on what strut assemblies etc you want to use, THEN buy the wheels to fit! Also, some aftermarket 13 inch wheels will clear the larger ZX calipers, but I've never seen a chart or listing! Here in the USA, 13 inch tire choices are terribly limited, so most are going to 14 inch (still limited tire choice) or 15 inch (lots of tire choices!).
  12. Never heard of either............and what a GREAT way to introduce yourself!! 👍 A 620 could have an L16, an L18 or an L20B 4cyl engine......OR some other swap! The L16 L18 should have the same 2 bolt lower alternator mount, unless somebody modified it. The L20B has a 3 bolt lower mount & is different then the L16 L18......it too could have been modified. We are all here to help each other, but if you can't play nice, well......... 😟
  13. I can't PM you.............says "not receiving messages"! Let's talk via EMAIL..........yenpit@hotmail.com. Email me a list so I can print it! We have snow this week, so can try to get there this weekend! BrothersGarage.........I will take a look! TJ Denver CO
  14. yenpit

    My Intro

    Nice! Do you know Steve Bonk in Chicago? Might be a good local resource for you, as he is neck deep in vintage racing 510's & Z's! Let me know if you need his contact info. Check the port size on the intake vs the cyl head........there are two dual Hitachi SU manifolds K14 & 220, one is small port, other is big port. U60 head should be big port. TJ
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