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About yenpit

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    Denver Colorado
  • Cars
    1972 510 4dr project, 2000 Impreza Outback

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  1. The eBay international program just makes selling overseas so much easier for the seller! As far as I know, the buyer gets a discounted cost on shipping too, but I leave that decision up to the buyer!
  2. There are two original 510 shift boot styles......one is round, other is oval. The stamped steel "base" tells you which one. Sorry I can't help with a new round boot. Have you tried new-datsun-parts.com or the seller on Facebook.....maybe Jay Datsun?
  3. A potential seller will need to know if 2dr or 4dr..............heck Wagon might even be different like the 510's!
  4. Mike responded via PM.........looks like some cool stuff! Gonna get on the road first, then chip away at upgrades.............. 😎
  5. I'm new to the 521 scene (510's 20++ years, Z cars 6++ years), having just bought a 1972 flat bed! mklotz70 what parts did you make? What parts are you considering making now? Only 521 parts or other Datsun models? I've been in & out of the British parts market since the mid 80's, have seen early repop junk & how that repop market grew to what it is today. Sure, there is still repop junk out there, but a good solid 75% of the British repop parts are quite good to even better then original! The one thing I am seeing here in the Datsun market, is that the 510 & Z car values are going thru the roof, which to me means that the 520 521 620 720 truck values will follow suit by going up in value.......sure, likely NOT as quickly or as high as the 510's & Z's, but at least up! I chuckle when I see people asking 510 & Z car money for some of the other Datsun sub models, but that is typical in ANY classic car market. FYI I sell quite a few USED 510 & Z car parts on FleaBay. One of the best things to happen with eBay was their introduction of their Global Shipping Program......at least for sellers. If an international buyer purchases something, it gets processed thru that program...................I only have to ship the part to eBay's GSP facility in KY, which means I do NOT have to do ANY of the international pain in the rear stuff to ship it! I have even sold parts internationally thru the forums or Facebook, made a deal with the buyer for me to set up a listing on eBay, I purposefully misspell Datsun or add asterisks etc so nobody else will find & buy out from under the guy I'm working with, the buyer buys it (Buy It Now) & all I do is ship it to KY! I still sell directly internationally every once in a while if the sale is dead simple, but eBay has really made it easier! I know......eBay fees fees fees! Fees are the cost of doing business on an international level, so I gladly deal with it................ TJ
  6. If your existing wood knob that you like has a metal threaded insert that is smaller that your new short shifter lever thread, drill & re-tap to your new thread...... I never liked those newer nylon threaded inserts, cuz under hard use they strip out!
  7. Always replace the old flasher units, both turnsignal AND hazard, with a heavy duty electronic (not just electric like original!) flasher unit! I use Novita part # EL12 (AutoZone) on ALL of our classic cars & even on a recent Factory 5 Shelby Daytona build in our shop! It is a direct plug in, they have never failed me & they seem to "power thru" the old original potential wire harness corrosion!
  8. FYI I just bought the NEW NOS OEM "Niles" 521 headlight switch off eBay from Thailand, but it is a SIX wire switch.............I'm ASSUMING this switch matches the SIX wire schematic mentioned above, that I do not think is USA spec.......?? Again, my 72 521 only has FOUR wires coming out of the main harness for the headlights. This NEW six wire switch also has a "twist" position like the courtesy/overhead light on a later 70's-80's car ie Ford Chevy etc when they still had headlight "pull on" switches, but I heard (DanielC??) that the JDM trucks might have had fog or driving lights, which MIGHT explain the "twist" on position........?? FYI the "twist" does not work in the OFF position, it only twists in the first (sidemarker lights & tail lights) & second (sidemarker lights, tail lights & headlights) positions. Our tech just ran a continuity test for me on the NEW NOS six wire headlight switch & he does NOT think I can make this NEW six wire switch work by deleting the other TWO wires. Crap! 😝 At least this NEW NOS switch was cheap............... 🙄. Still on the hunt for a FOUR wire switch that will work............. Funny......I grew up with these "pull on" switches on cars. Our tech is much younger & has never had a car with a "pull" on switch..........only the rotary style headlight switches of later cars! (oddly the 70-83 Z ZX's all had a rotary headlight switch). I feel old!!
  9. All of the above ^^^^^^, but there is also an OEM headlight RELAY that can go bad, yes? Man, if you are only getting the sidemarker lighting with key ON, something is really amiss! Soak the fuse box (if it is original????) in white vinegar for a day or two to clean it. If you can post pics, a pic of the top & bottom, clearly showing all of the terminals so we can help verify it is correct. That might help the headlights, but I'm not sure simply cleaning the fuse box will fix the sidemarkers, cuz like they said above..........ALL of the lighting should work WITHOUT the ignition on.............. Be aware that most of the wiring schematics in print & online are NOT correct for our USA spec 521's (same issue with our 510's!). The most common color coded schematic that I see the most online shows SIX wires at the headlight switch, pretty sure ours only had FOUR wires at the switch, my 1972 521 only has FOUR wires!
  10. 280Z/280ZX 5speed is the "bolt up to the L series engine" upgrade, but you would need to shorten the driveshaft & fab up a trans crossmember/mount. I think Techno Toy Tuning (T3) here in the States sells a trans crossmember......? Be sure to match your throw out bearing mounting sleeve (attaches to the throw out arm) to whatever clutch kit you use............ ie 280Z Coupe (2+2 uses a different clutch kit) clutch kit you must use the matching 280Z Coupe t/o bearing sleeve. There are at least three different "depth" t/o bearing sleeves. I would expect that you can upgrade to the S13/S14 5speed, but iirc you will still need a 1971-1978 Z car 4speed or a 1977-1983 Z/ZX 5speed bellhousing, either of which requires having one of the front bearing holes machined out larger to suit the larger S13/S14 bearing...........just that one bearing, all else is good. If you decide to lower the car, one of the best budget upgrades for the front is to use the 79-83 280ZX (NOT the earlier 240Z-280Z!!) front strut assemblies with coilover adjustable springs. You have more available choices of replacement strut insert cartridges (shocks) for the ZX struts, a better more conventional caliper, vented rotors & larger wheel bearings. Of course you can also upgrade the rotors & calipers with various suppliers ie Wilwood, Ermish etc etc. Good looking 4dr! Love the dual Weber DCOE's!
  11. They were never sold separately, only with the hinge assembly & they are long NLA NLS. PM me if you need a good USED hinge, as I might have one. Waterford.......do you race the 510 at Waterford Hills? I was in Kzoo & Holland 22 years, but sadly NEVER made it to that track, always attended Gingerman & Grattan! TJ Denver
  12. yenpit


    I've got some original 510 rads, but none are known to be good as is...........I would sell as a rebuildable CORE unit. Shipping to the UK would be painful $$, but I can do it if you want one! Only way to get an exact shipping cost would be to actually box it up, which I just can't do unless it is sold. I can measure one, weigh it & GUESS, but sometimes that bites ya in the rear once it is actually sold & boxed up, cuz of added weight of packing material & added dimensions to accomodate! Another option is buy the aluminum rad & paint or powdercoat black, so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb! I bought an aluminum rad for my 65 Mustang GT, thought about painting it black, but simply didn't want to spend the time, so in it went as aluminum! I got used to it!
  13. You plan on retrofitting a 280Z heater assembly?? 😣 Ugh, you would be MUCH better off locating another 521 unit and/or heater core..........MUCH MUCH better off!! Since buying my truck a month ago & spending time on this 521 forum, I will start buying parts trucks! I've been buying & selling 510 & Z cars & parts for many years, just didn't pay enough attention to the truck series & the need for good parts! I know where one parts truck is in an old school junkyard that is closed down, so I am already working at buying that one, as I know the owner! TJ
  14. yenpit

    521 Fuse Blocks.

    The brass crossovers on the bottom are different on the Niles fuse box that is currently on eBay. Am I seeing that you SIMPLY swapped the RED BLACK with the BLUE RED terminal to terminal? As far as I can see, the rest of your wires match mine.............
  15. yenpit

    521 Fuse Blocks.

    Old post, but what was the outcome? I've got a 1972 521, working on electrical, want to replace fuse box. Currently there is another OEM Niles fuse box on eBay out of Thailand, but it too is NOT the same as mine. Reading thru Chrlie69's post now, so might go Blue Sea fuse box & modify as instructed.........
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