My Yello620

[yello620]

Small update. Installed a "used" windshield yesterday with a new seal. This window does not have any rock chips in it yet. :D Not a Nissan glass though, has PPG markings on it. As long as it does not leak like the old seal did with the rock pitted windshield.

 

Also installed some Maxima sway bar end links on the rear sway bar. I had Sentra links. The maxima links are about an inch longer. I was never happy with the angle of the rear sway bar, and the maxima links helped with that, still not perfect though.

 

Sorry no pics.

 

Also started with some rubbing compound on the paint, it was getting very oxidized. Got the hood and the tops of the fenders done this evening. lots more to do.

 

Got the shifter pin properly installed too. Still dont know for sure what is up with the shifting, it is only in 1st and 2nd gear. I think that it has a detent spring problem. And that can be checked without removing the trans. I am needing a reverse light switch for the 5 speed. Apparrently the 4 speed switch is different. It fits in the hole, but the lights are on all the time unless it is in reverse.

[yello620]

Another change in the 620.

I replaced the centerlink tierod ends and idler arm with stock stuff. And i replaced the four outer tie rod ends with HB 4x4 tie rods and adjusting sleeves from an Eagle premier. Truck drives better than ever now too.

Here is a couple pics of the outer tie rod assemblies. :D

 

I also made my sway bar end links about 3/8" longer so that the tie rod adjusting sleeve would not rub the sway bar.

 

Also visible in the first pic is my shock mounting relocation on the lower control arm. :D

[]2eDeYe]

That's a great shock solution. :cool:

 

Did you just remove the stock mount and base plate and drill the new hole in the control arm?

[fastdadd]

i need to talk to you about doing a set for me

[yello620]

2eDeYe' date='20 June 2011 - 07:17 AM' timestamp='1308579449' post='497026']

That's a great shock solution. :cool:

 

Did you just remove the stock mount and base plate and drill the new hole in the control arm?

 

No, it is easier than that. I will try to get better pics.

 

Just trimmed the existing shock mount down flush with the arm, and drill a new hole. But the new hole goes through the entire arm, not but the shock mount. So you end up going through four layers of steel. The outer holes(control arm body) and the inner holes(shock mount). So no you need to drill the outer holes larger to fit a crush sleeve up against the inner shock mount. Weld the sleeve at the outer holes, and a tack if possible(tight fit) at the inner mount. You will need a much longer bolt now.

 

The next problem is that the shock body will hit on the bump stop pad. So i pursuaded the pad into a round shape that cleared the small shock body. I now have a set of larger body Bilsteins, and they will not clear the pad and i dont want them dented either. So i am going to have to trim the pad a little bit.

[]2eDeYe]

Nice, gonna do this instead of raising the towers. Thanks for the pic and the description. :cool:

 

Bumpstops? :lol:

[yello620]

2eDeYe' date='20 June 2011 - 07:22 PM' timestamp='1308622977' post='497313']

Bumpstops? :lol:

 

 

For what?? This shock mount mod created so much more travel that it is almost funny. I took the bumpstops out about three months ago, i had bumpstops in it so that my larger tires would not rub when entering a driveway to fast while turning. Replaced those tires last summer and went down on size. I have never heard these ones rub, ever.

 

Her is a pic of tire to fenderwell and frame contact with the control arm. Those are only 16" wheels too.

 

Shock easily still has an inch of shaft left showing in this pic. I actually plan to install a slightly longer shock, and install a very thin bumpstop.

[Wide14u]

it looks sharp

[]2eDeYe]

That's what I meant, I haven't had any bumpstops since lowering mine. :lol:

 

I just realized you have the later style lower control arm, I'm not sure if I can relocate the shock mount the same way on the later style. :(

[yello620]

This shock mount relocation into the lower arm does not work with king pin style arms. Sorry. It could work, but more fab work than it would be worth.

[]2eDeYe]

Yep, back to raising the shock towers :)

[yello620]

Ok, i am looking for some opinions on value of my used parts. My VG30 conversion should be happening very soon.

 

So i will have a L20b/5spd, Weber, EI dizzy, Radiator, Driveline w/good carrier bearing rubber(good last i checked).

 

L20b/U67 was freshened up about 60k ago. Gave it a 20k breakin and then switched to synthetic oil. However it uses one quart of oil about every 2-2.5k miles. 60k ago it got new piston/rings(std bore), bearings, 8 valves, oil pump, and clutch. Will not include my polished valve cover, it has already been removed and a stocker replaced it.

 

The 5spd should probably be considered a core. First and second gear syncros are shot, and it is popping out of second gear often. Longtail.

 

Weber w/tall adapter and short air cleaner, about $75.

 

Matchbox dizzy w/pedastal and coil, about $75. Actually have two of these.

 

Driveline with good carrier rubber.

 

Radiator, needs one corner of the top tank resealed. I might even do that before i sell it.

 

Motor is still in the truck, and you can still hear it run or test drive it before i pull it. But this is about Ratsun opinions of value, before i make a sale thread.

 

So i am looking for your opinion on the value of this stuff before i make a for sale thread.

[motavated]

yyyyyyyayayayayyayaayyay! CANT WAIT TO HEAR HER RUN WITH A VG!

[RadioRedline]

Anyone know if the elec dizzy etc from his L20b will fit an L16?

 

Radio

[izzo]

Anyone know if the elec dizzy etc from his L20b will fit an L16?

 

Radio

 

 

Yes, it will. May have to find a different pedestal for it. You will need an EI coil to go with it.

[yello620]

Well, i believe that the countdown has begun. I will be prepping the VG with a fresh gasket kit on the 12th and 13th of August. Then going to the Blue Lake show on the 14th, and on the Monday the 15th the motor is coming out. The VG swap is happening. :blink:

 

I have about three weeks off of school to get it done, and it has to get done in that time. should be a good time. :)

[jesusno2]

If ya need any help jason hit me up man.

[]2eDeYe]

Sweet! :cool:

[yello620]

OK, i am adding a couple of pics here for my future reference after the VG swap.

 

First pic is front ride height, i like this height and just want to be able to easily readjust it back to here after the VG install. This pic is 12.5" from fender to center of wheel.

 

Second pic is with my truck sitting on the local truck scales, not perfectly accurate, but better than nothing.

Pic shows 2400lbs. 1/4 tank of fuel. Nothing else in it adding weight.

 

I was hoping to start pulling the L20b tomorrow, but i am already about a day behind of what i planned. No point in pulling my motor until the VG has the gasket kit installed.

 

EDIT: Checked my gas mileage from the tank i drove to Blue Lake on. 24.1 mpg. Not too bad at all. This tank was about a 50/50 mix of city/highway driving. Hoping the VG does that well or better.

[yello620]

Didnt pull my L20b today.

 

Started the cleanup of the VG that i was hoping to do last thursday. Installed the oil pickup tube, oil pan, and a new thermostat today. Will install new valve cover gaskets tomorrow(if i find the missing container of bolts). After the valve covers are on, i plan to roll the engine stand outside and scrub the oily motor and squirt a little rattle can on it. :D

 

Used a bit of duct tape to seal it up for tomorrow washing.

 

I also did a little rattle can rebuild on a few hard parts. Coolant tubes, motor mount brackets, alternator mount.

 

That's all for today, tomorrow might not see a lot of progress. :(

 

Was planning to use the clutch that came with the trans, clutch looks great. But, that is a long ways back, so i might get a new one tomorrow. I also think i am going to pick up a new timing belt and idler pulley. Belt looks good, but again a long ways to go back and it is an interference motor.

 

 

 

EDIT: this is more of a future note for my reference.

Moved the front sump dipstick tube to the rear sump position in the block. But the rear sump position is spaced 10mm up do to the block casting. So for the dipstick to read correct oil level, it needs to read 10mm below the full mark on this stick. Should probably install a proper rear sump dipstick tube and dipstick.

Wow, that was an awful lot of Dipstick. :D

[izzo]

:thumbup:

[Z chopper]

sweet gotta post vids of it running when your done

[jon521]

cant wait to see this in there, its gonna be sick

[motavated]

You will sell this kit if everything works good right???

[yello620]

You will sell this kit if everything works good right???

 

Could consider that. But that would not be cheap at all. Motor mount brackets, oil pan, alternator mount, heater hose fittings is the short list of custom parts.

 

 

Todays progress, still have not touched my L20b, still driving it too.

 

Installed the upper and lower intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds. Replaced the cam seals, cant get the lower timing pulley off at all. Was hoping to replace the front crank seal.

I was planning to use the clutch that came with the transmission(looks good), But i went ahead and ordered a new clutch kit today. I also decided that i should be installing a new timing belt, so i will pick that up when i pick up the clutch kit.

I also installed a new water pump bypass hose.

 

So just one pic today. :D