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My Yello620


yello620

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I'll call you guys this week. I'm trying to sell some parts to people in the Portland/Vancouver area on Saturday. I'll try and set it up for early on and maybe Jason and I can have some fun coming back. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, i now have two small updates.

First, I cut my exhaust off just below the manifold so that i could start my intake/exhaust manifold swap. I was running the stock 76 manifold that are bolted together to create the carb heat riser, and it always leaked between the two pieces. So i found a L16 intake/exhaust manifold setup. I spent a lot of time porting the intake manifold. Ported too deep and made a hole so i had to get another intake, the second one seemed to be cast a little thicker too. Spent a lot more time porting it till i was happy.

Started the removal on Thursday evening after work, and had it all back together and running after work on Friday. But, only running about six inches of exhaust after the manifold. I goes to the exhaust shop tonight(maybe).

 

Second update is back to the headlight relays. After discovering the poor output of my GM 10si alternator (12.2 volts), I did some research and found that the GM 12 si has the same size case and i had one laying around. So of course i installed it. It is also not a one-wire conversion alternator, so i had to wire it properly, and my dash light works now too.:D This alternator is putting out 14.6v too.

 

So back to the headlights. I now have 14.1v to the low beams and 13.8v to the high beams. That is at idle, i havent been able to drive it yet due to the lack of exhaust as mentioned above.

 

Ohh and i installed my polished valve cover.

yello620003-1.jpg

Edited by yello620
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, new update.

I picked my truck up from the exhaust shop last night. Wow, totally different power.

Completely new pipe from the manifold to the tailpipe. He didnt like my headpipe flange, so he had one laser cut for a better starting point, then built a new headpipe that is like a longtube header. The two pipes dont combine for about twelve inches past the manifold. Then he installed another flange/gasket(2 1/4") about the middle of the transmission area. Should help if the trans needs to come out. Then he flattened one side of a section of 2 1/4" pipe for clearance at the crossmembers. Then tapered it down to the 2" pipe that i wanted the muffler to be. Asked for a quiet muffler, This one is reasonably quiet but it could have been a little quieter. Then out the left rear corner angled rearward using the stock rear mounting location After it took some serious bending to get it around my swaybar.

 

Way more power throughout the RPM's, and it doesnt seem to run flat at 4500 like it used to. And the intake is about as loud as the exhaust at full throttle.

 

Sorry, no pictures. Maybe next time i am under the truck.

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  • 1 month later...

More polished parts.:D

 

Started with a spare(non working) GM alternator and polished the case. Then removed the internals ffrom the alternator in the truck and installed them into the polished case.

GM10sipolished002.jpg

GM10sipolished003.jpg

 

Flame away.:D

 

I am wishing now that i had painted the fan and pulley.

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  • 2 weeks later...
New update.:D Did a little more polishing. Looks better, but definently not perfect. Only tried to get the area that can be seen while the air cleaner is on.

GM10sipolished005.jpg

 

man

 

that looks sharp. I take it your not using the 620 for a daily driver right now?

 

was that just from sanding, and then using a buffer on it?

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that looks sharp. I take it your not using the 620 for a daily driver right now?

 

was that just from sanding, and then using a buffer on it?

 

Ya, it is still my daily.:D It takes about two minutes to pull the carb top.

 

That work there was all done with a Dremel.:D A little bit with a rough rotary bit for some of the rough cast edges. Then a sandpaper wheel to smooth out the enges that were just done with the rough bit. Finally a buffer bit in the dremel.

 

Super easy too.

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Ya, it is still my daily.:D It takes about two minutes to pull the carb top.

 

That work there was all done with a Dremel.:D A little bit with a rough rotary bit for some of the rough cast edges. Then a sandpaper wheel to smooth out the enges that were just done with the rough bit. Finally a buffer bit in the dremel.

 

Super easy too.

 

I use my dremel to buff things as well. but yours seemed like it turned out well

 

Can you get me the part # for the bits you used? might have to buy them online not sure if HD or the hardware store carries some of this stuff.

 

Only sand paper ive seen is kind of course stuff for the dremel.

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