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My Yello620


yello620

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Your not even done yet. How can you say it isn't fast enough? How can you get any speed when your leaving one lane of smoke? biggrin.gif

 

Tire spin has not been a problem yet, but i am not one to side step it either. Anything past 10mph and traction is not a problem, provided that i wasnt spinning before that 10mph. :rofl:

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Just ordered some silicone intake manifold parts, a 90* elbow that reduces from 3" to 2.75" to fit the nissan throttle bodies, and a straight 3" coupler.

 

After i get the intake stuff sorted out, maybe the idle will be happier and maybe it will be faster too.

 

Having starter problems though, probably going to have to pull the starter. Jes know how i feel about that. :D

The solenoid is not working very often when hot, already put it on a factory nissan relay, helped a little bit but did not fix the problem.

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Dont feel bad jason I could never get the idle stuff to work in my ka either. Got it to work with my brothers engine though. and they both are a matched set ecu and all. mine just wont work for some reason so i just blocked it all off still run fine that way just wont high idle on a cold start up.

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I spent a little time in the JY this morning before it got to hot out.

 

Found a few goodies, but nothing to further the VG project. I did get a correct rear sump dipstick and dipstick tube.

 

I found another set of Cibie headlight lenses in a Peugout. I really like these lenses in my truck, so another set for cheap makes good spares, as i have broken one in the past.

Found a pair of excellent black armrests that look identical to the 620's, but i took them out of a B210.

Also got an excellent condition shift boot out of a 720, and it fits the 620 shifter hole perfectly.

 

Kinda just waiting on the silicone intake boots to arrive, so that i can get everything hooked so to be properly metered air.

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Did a bit more work today.

 

Modified the transmission tunnel cover. The shifter hole needed moved back 1.5". So i cut two covers to make one with the hole where i wanted it. Warped the shit out of the metal welding it too. I have never really welded sheet metal before, nor do i have the patience to do so.

IMG135.jpg

 

Figured out what was wrong with the starter problem. Stupid mistake made by me.

 

Also researched why my cooling fan was not coming on when i thought it should be. 200* fan switch, and it just seemed too hot before the fan came on.

VG's coolant flow is backwards, so the fan switch was on the cool side of the radiator. So i am moving it to the thermostat neck that was previously modified for alternator belt clearance. This puts it an the very closest point of the hot side of the coolant flow.

I would like to find a 190* fan switch though. Seems like to much difference between the 170* thermostat and a 200* fan switch. The other option is to install a 180* thermostat. I am told that the VG likes to run closer to 200* so the 180* thermostat would be good.

 

The 1984-89 300zx turbo factory fan switch is 212*. So 200* should be fine.

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Did a bit more work today.

 

Modified the transmission tunnel cover. The shifter hole needed moved back 1.5". So i cut two covers to make one with the hole where i wanted it. Warped the shit out of the metal welding it too. I have never really welded sheet metal before, nor do i have the patience to do so.

 

Figured out what was wrong with the starter problem. Stupid mistake made by me.

 

Also researched why my cooling fan was not coming on when i thought it should be. 200* fan switch, and it just seemed too hot before the fan came on.

VG's coolant flow is backwards, so the fan switch was on the cool side of the radiator. So i am moving it to the thermostat neck that was previously modified for alternator belt clearance. This puts it an the very closest point of the hot side of the coolant flow.

I would like to find a 190* fan switch though. Seems like to much difference between the 170* thermostat and a 200* fan switch. The other option is to install a 180* thermostat. I am told that the VG likes to run closer to 200* so the 180* thermostat would be good.

 

The 1984-89 300zx turbo factory fan switch is 212*. So 200* should be fine.

 

 

Sheet metal is not to be welded with a constant ark, you need to spot weld/tack it like in the photo below, I spot welded/tacked this top on, by tacking it every 4 inches or so, then between each weld(2 inches) and so on and so on till they are almost touching each other, if you click on the photo below you will see that none of them actually touch each other, I don't even use a welding helmet, I aim, close my eyes, pull the trigger breifly, open my eyes and move on to the next spot, that way the metal doesn't get hot enough to warp. When the spot welds/tacks start getting close together, I skip over a few so the metal in that area doesn't get any hotter.DSCN0105.jpg

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have you had a chance to figure out why the motor turns off when the cooling fan comes on

 

Maybe, i am waiting on the silicone intake boots so i can get a proper intake system going. So right now the motor is seeing unmetered air coming in, which pisses off the computer and the Idle solenoid. So then the idle solenoid cant keep up with the unmetered air either. Few more days and i should have the silicone boots.

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I got the intake system built yesterday, and finished installing it and the assosiated hoses today. Got my thermostat neck back today too, this allowed me to move my cooling fan switch. Still not sure that it is right yet though. I got my temperature gun out to check the block temps when the fan comes on, and the fan comes on right at 200* like it is supposed to. I just dont like where it is reading on the stock guage at 200*.

 

The exhaust still smells super rich, but i still need to adjust the TPS, and set the timing.

 

I think that i am going to need to order a different muffler, this one is really loud. Fun, but to loud for a daily for me.

 

Now, off to read the FSM, need to figure out the TPS.

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Put about 50 miles on the truck today, starting to run smoother with the intake system done.

 

Have a small bug to work out with the lower radiator hose rubbing the alternator pulley. Not sure what my solution will be yet, but should be a reasonably easy fix.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Adding this part number to this thread for my future reference. 12100-30P00. 93+ Z32, 08/88-02/94 maxima j30chassis.

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