hacked's 521 (turbo bagged right hand drive)

[hacked521]

well got some pictures for you guys, they kinda suck but theyre still pictures.

pic of the new turbo set up

the down tube going to the side pipe

the side pipe !!!!

oil line

oil line

more turbo stuff

more turbo stuff

and finally a shot of the back

 

i ordered a blow off valve. i really need to take this thing down to the car wash now that i actually got the leaks to stop on the dam thing. need to paint it one color too haha.

[Charlie69]

Hey Hacked looking good. I hope you paint it to look like your avatar picture that is bad ass. Happy New Year!

[hacked521]

havent posted anything new in a while so i got lots of updates and lots of pictures...some include a garret ball-bearing t25 turbo :]. well on to the stuff you guys like... pictures:

my freshly painted horn

cant remember if i put up a picture of this but i did a quick polish on the l20 front cover.

my block off plate, getting the 280zx fuel pump this weekend.

oil line for the turbo

return line

new door panel...not too bad for the first one

start of my homemade buckets

some foam, i got one wrapped the other ill wrap soon but ill get pictures of the finished product up

quick polish and painted the letters

thats it for tonight, ill have more stuff up later.

[hacked521]

no replys...thats cool. haha, well i got the new header made up for the turbo, got the air filter pipe made, got my 280zx fuel pump and gonna run new lines from the tank up. I need to run a couple coolant lines and it will be set and ready to start tuning the carb, that might be the part thats going to take the longest, im gonna have to switch over to plastic floats or fill the brass one with foam. get some pictures up later.

[shancerlelby]

haha okay i'll bite. im diggin the rat rod vibe. this is home brew rodding at its finest!

[Farmer Joe]

haha that turbo setup was badass! i would have liked to see a video pf it driving.

 

get a video of the new setup!! and lots of pics of said manifold!!

[hacked521]

well i turned on the fuel pump just to get the fuel pressure set for idle but its just pushing right through the regulator...im gonna try a couple things like putting a pill in front of the regulator to get the fuel slowed down. hopefully it will work... oh and i got some pictures of the Header, ill take a couple more once it stops raining and upload them. Im also thinking about adapting a 2barrel holley instead of using the rochester. trust me, youll get plenty of videos of this thing running...and dragging... and boosting.

[Charlie69]

Hey hacked, some fuel regulators are for low pressure only 1 to 5 psi. what size Holley? I ran a Holley 650 2 BB on my 283 in my 55 Chevy 2 door hard top back in the early 70's. I know before you were born! LOL Oh what it would be to be your age again! Hope you all are doing fine.

[hacked521]

well i was talking to my dad about the problems i had with the fuel system last night and we agreed that the restriction before the regulator wasnt enough. im gonna try a smaller jet in the regulator and see what happens. im gonna ask my dad if he knows what pressure the spring in that regulator was setup for and hopefully it isnt too light of a spring. Charlie, i would give damn near anything to have a '55 chevy 2 door hard top...those are just awesome! especially with a set of mechanical fuel injection velocity stacks sticking up through the hood... alright back to datsuns! haha as for the size, i need to look. hopefully its not too large of cfm.

[Charlie69]

I have read on the internet of people using 350 cfm holeys on L motors but no mention of how they worked.

 

Hey Hacked I have a Weber DGAV 32/36 with mechanical choke I would sell you. PM if you are interested. I also have a mechanical Weber 38 I might part with but it would be expensive.

[bonvo]

there is a guy on ratsun who has a 390 holly on his l20b he hasent posted in a while though i asked him for info on it the manifold and the carb can be found on jegs

[bonvo]

there is a guy on ratsun who has a 390 holly on his l20b he hasent posted in a while though i asked him for info on it the manifold and the carb can be found on jegs

[hacked521]

ill have to talk to that guy about the holley setup. I started up the datsun today with the new turbo :D . It sounded awesome! Getting to hear it spool was nice. I have a video of it which ill put up here once i get done uploading it, i have dial up so it takes just a little while.

Still left to do on the turbo set up:

mount the regulator

tie up all the hoses

finish the airfilter tube

make the down pipe

On the truck so its driveable again:

run the copper airlines

wrap the bucket seat

 

a video of it driving is coming soon!!!!

[hacked521]

the video of it running. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56xd8gmoCDc there you guys go, watch and enjoy!

[CharlieBucket]

cool shit man, i always loved your truck.

[Farmer Joe]

damn! that runs good for a homebrewed setup. how many psi will it push when you get it drivin?

[hacked521]

well im not going to go anywhere past 7psi on this motor, gonna start out at 5 then slowly increase it to 7. However on the next engine im planning on doing low compression forged pistons, copper head gasket, and a bunch of other goodies and run a lot higher boost. Im not going any higher just because ive heard of the ring landings not being able to handle the boost. Im not going to risk it haha.

 

Farmer Joe- not too bad for an 18 year old either haha

 

CharlieBucket- thanks, i got tired of having just a bagged truck. I needed something to when someone looked under the hood they were also surprised.

[hacked521]

well after searching for a couple days, i cant find just a flange for the outlet on my turbo to build a downpipe. of course i can find numerous downpipes for the turbo but im not going to pay $150 when im just going to use a flange. Its come down to that point. Does anyone know where i would be able to find just a flange? The turbo is off a 90-96 300 zx twin turbo of course. Its the 4 bolt not the 5 bolt pattern.

[Farmer Joe]

i bet your best bet would be just to have a flange cut out. prolly your cheapest bet too.

[hacked521]

yeah i kinda figured that, i allready started on a flange just in case. thats lame. I started to make a cover for my bed out of aluminum today, looks pretty good. Ill take some pictures tomorrow and get those up. Im thinking about using the top of the bed as flat bed and making wood posts and supports for the sides, either will look really good or really cheesy haha. well see.

[hacked521]

ok so i got the exhaust pretty much ran from the turbo back, i have one tube left to weld. I got some pictures of a moroso valve cover that was originally for a sbc but im making it fit an l series head. Oh and some pictures of the start of the bed cover and the airfilter guard. test drove the truck the other day without the downpipe or anything, turbo spooled up fast but could tell there was not nearly enough back-pressure. gonna have another go at it once i get the rest of the exhaust hooked up. Hopefully it cures a lot of the bugs.

bed cover

air filter shield deal

flange

how the valve cover started

cut it up to start the fit

one side fitting

and the other side

 

it should be killer once its done :cool:

[Icehouse]

Hacked your truck looks AWESOME!!! I wish I was close so I could go for a ride :)

 

 

So what happened to the turbo box? The boost may blow the seals out of your carb. When we did the turbo setup on Dave's car I bugged Keith (Carb'd 510 turbo dude in Canada) about a million times, man was I full of questions :) The fuel system for that setup is SO damn complicated. I'm used to EFI and had a really hard time getting my mind wrapped around the way it worked. I will try to explain it and I will also give Keith the link to this thread, maybe he will chime in and add a bit of advice.

 

The fuel pressure ALWAYS needs to be 3.5PSI higher than the boost pressure if not the boost won't allow the float bowl to fill resulting in a lean mixture and we all know what that does to our engines :( So first the carb needs to be in a box to keep the gaskets from blowing out, then the fuel pressure needs to stay 3.5PSI higher than the boost pressure so the carb is always full of fuel. Also the jets need to be changed out in the secondaries so under boost the mixture is accurate. (That's where Keith comes in)

 

Now to for the fuel regulator... Man it was tough for me to even understand how it worked trying to explain it may be kinda tough.. Since the zx pump flows so much fuel but you only need 3psi at idle you need to run a very interesting system. I wish I could find the drawing... I will post a pic of dave's engine and explain how it works.

 

 

 

 

In the bottom of the reg is the fuel supply, we installed a cheap gauge there because we wanted to make sure that the fuel pressure was going to be above 13.5PSI because our goal boost was 10PSI and the fuel always needs to be 3.5PSI higher. If I remember correctly we ran it at about 18PSI on that gauge, it was kinda the happy spot for that fuel pump. The aluminum block was our T, the top line in the photo goes to the carb with another pressure gauge on it, that gauge needs to read 3.5PSI at idle, off the front of the T there is a valve which then runs to the tank as a return line. The valve is the KEY ingredient for us backyard guys. by adjusting the valve it will change both pressures but the locknut on the top of the reg will change the income pressure. It's weird to adjust but with a bit of fucking around you will see how the work in relation with each other, just remember your target pressures and go from there. Off the top of the reg in the adjustment stud you will need to drill a whole (which it looks like you did in the pic) and run that vacuum line to "box" pressure, this will insure that your fuel pressure is always 3.5PSI higher than "box" pressure and always have fuel when needed. The only other thing I can think of (It's 1 AM and my brain is only half on) is the reg requires the "high pressure spring" Which if you order the rebuild kit it comes with both springs and its under 20 bucks from Summit.

 

 

Man Dave's car was such a blast t ride around in, I can't imagine how much fun it's going to be in your truck.

 

O you should also pick up an Innovate XD-16, they are great widebands and somewhat affordable :)

[metalmonkey47]

Holy crap! This has gotta be one of the coolest builds I've seen. Kinda reminds me of this rat rod I saw at a car show a few years back.

[bertvorgon]

Hey Gang, Keith here, new to the Ratsun Forum!

 

I am the "dude" that Jeff refers to, with the turbo blow through system.

 

As Jeff said, getting the fuel delivery system to work with a carb takes a bit of patience, and knowing WHAT to do. What Jeff said is correct, that you NEED a pressure differential between the air box pressure, and the fuel pressure that the needle and seat are seeing. This is ABSOLUTLEY critical, otherwise the carb will run out of fuel in a very short time, depending on load. THis if course will cause a leanout condition, that most engines do not like, specially if it happens time after time...usually the rings go first, if it does not detonate itself to oblivion. I have a very simplfied diagram of my fuel system, I will scan in later today.

 

What Jeff is showing you is basically correct, other than he is using a valve to control the return line. In my system specifically, I have the high pressure feed to the regulator ( which is the higher pressure springed Holley regulator) I am using the 280ZX turbo fuel pump, PUSHING fuel from the tank, through the fuel filter. MAKE SURE YOUR FUEL LINES ARE LARGE ENOUGH TO HAVE GOOD VOLUME!!!!!!!

You will chase the moon of you keep running out of fuel, thinking you have everything else right, when it is a VOLUME problem.

 

Then, out of the regulator, I have a line that goes to the carb of course, and then....and this is what myself and others use......a line that goes back to the fuel tank ( a return line) that has a .030" restriction in it. That restriction HAS to be there, otherwise you would NEVER develop any PRESSURE..PERIOD. It serves the function of both help to keep the fuel cooler as it can keep recirculating, and, helps with pressure spikes at the needle and seat. I would think to, that it helps with keeping the pump from dead heading, at low load situations, ( read IDLE).

 

I am not sure why Jeff could not get his to work with the restriction, but that is what we have used up in Canada.....maybe it's an American thing..ha, ha....

 

Sorry for my ignorance..how do I post pictures on this site?

[datzenmike]

Hey Keith. Can't really call you a noob. :lol: