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Icehouse

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Everything posted by Icehouse

  1. Pertronix sells a coil to match their setup so you don't need a ballast resistor. I have that combo on my VW bus. Some places sell it together even.
  2. Welp... I just bought this car. I now own a sports car!
  3. Did you ever get the ECU issue figured out? Maybe I missed it.
  4. post a picture of the axles
  5. Here are a couple pics I took. Turns out I need to take way more! Carter at the track trying to fix our fueling issue. more fixing Removing the old cage. The new one sure is nice! Sorry Steve my new neighbor has a tube bender so we don't need your help any more. I think will will think of something you can help us with 🙂 door bar. Hmmm something new coming with the steering too!
  6. My NA SR hits 10's at full throttle at the lower RPM's then goes into the 11's. Full throttle is never above 12 and it's a stock ECU NA motor.
  7. You can use the stock mounts. Don't buy the solid mounts you will be hating life.
  8. Time Left: 12 days and 11 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I know you guys like these cars too. Let me know what you got. I got cash and some datto's if you want to trade.

    $510

    - US

  9. Yeah we need an update. Also what clutch and flywheel did you use?
  10. I new if I searched I would find the answer..... Dang I just wanted to sneak the KA24E head on my D21 Z24 just to get a little more power until I motor swap it. Guess I will just have to wait for more power.
  11. No feel comparison at all. I have a 86 power rack with a zillion miles on it in one of my 510's that has stock tie rods and ball joints. It feels tighter then any box car I've owned or driven. Anyone who says the "band aids" will make the box feel the same is a liar. Yeah it's a pain to keep an L with our kit. Sam did it. A 1980 510 oil pan and a header with a hug dent in it allowed it to work.
  12. We just reclock the cock and run the hoses inside the car on swaps.
  13. Icehouse

    SR20VET

    O boy I'm close!!! Got the RWD trans almost modified. Machined the 3/8" thickness of the adapter off the bell. I think it would have worked without it but I wanted maximum spline engagement on the clutch disk. I need to mount a slave cylinder and it's done! My disk came in today too! I "machined" the flywheel to, with a sharpening stone. It's ready for some clutch kicks. Used a RWD exhaust manifold I got from my old buddy Spreadburry. He and some other pointed out the DE exhaust manifold doesn't line up with the VE exhaust ports. To me it looked close enough. Maybe not for the race engines he builds but it's good enough for my back yard builds. Added the water return line like the S14/15 Gotta mod the drain. Waist gate didn't work in the RWD layout. So I built a sweetgoogamoo new bracket. Next I had to sort out the water lines. Which looked way harder than it ended up being. I just made a bracket to hold the thermostat housing and welded up some sort of manifold. The factory metal is not easy to tig weld. Luke told me to use stainless filler rod. It did help, actually a lot!!! Here is the factory location on the back of the head. So many hoses!! The idea. Welding fun.... Still looks like a mess. Now it's looking close!!! It's funny because at the beginning it looked like such a mess compared to a S chassis SR. Now it looks so much cleaner!!! Just those 2 170 degree hoses and the oil cooler hoses.
  14. Icehouse

    Lowered Wagons

    Yep "old man low"!!! That's why the only 2 wagon's I ever owned had IRS swaps. 510's gotta be low to look good. Can't wait to get my goon all sorted nice and low. We need to figure out the stock fender lip to center of hub measurement. I think 6"-7" drop is what it will take to look good.
  15. Icehouse

    Lowered Wagons

    My buddies goon from way back. It had a 3" and 1" block in the back. Had to cut out under the seat and some of the frame to make it ride nice. Here is a goon we built later. We converted to sedan IRS. It's about 1" off the ground not sure how much lowered that is. haha. My buddy Aaron owns it now. In this photo it wasn't as low. My current goon. Was converted to IRS by a local shop. It will be even lower soon. A slammed goon is the best!!!!! I need to rebuild the rear arches. It had flares.... 😞 Although 5" isn't achievable easily it's where they look good.
  16. Those are rivnuts. I need to repair that to. Mike I could paint it and get it back to it's former glory. Not sure I want to invest that much time.
  17. You're loving the D21 aren't you! The wheels were on my 2 door and fit fine. They must have done some camber correction. If I didn't have to rebuild the lips I would find other wheels. Since it's all chopped up I will look into what is needed for clearance.
  18. Got it running!!!! hooked up a bunch of wires, added battery cables and hooked up fuel lines they were installed backwards. It fired right up. The goal is to have it running for Carters B-day. He will have his goon running then. The rear arches need to be repaired and radiator needs a fan. Also the front grill, headlights and wiring needs to be gone through. So yeah. Lots of work left.
  19. Can the stock ECU be used? Or does it have some sort of anti theft / check for all important systems like Nissan or Honda?
  20. 15x8 is doable with rolled fenders. I'm sure if you got super aggressive with the right offset you could fit 8.5" maybe even 9". The rear is the tough part. The step inside the door on the fender lip will give you some issues.
  21. 70 is the change over year for the harness. Did you use all the wiring that came with the car? some items don't swap over such as headlight switch, although if you had the low beams working Hainz is right, the relay is most likely bad. Which is an easy fix. Did you soak your fuse box in vinegar and check all the fuses? Also pay very good attention under the dash where the dash harness connects to the engine room harness. You can plug things in wrong. Make sure the colors line up. Get yourself a test light and see where the power stops. That will help you solve some issues. Then get someone to help you upload pictures. That would be a big help.
  22. My coupe had a "2" stamped on the strut tower, it wasn't a SSS coupe. The seam between the firewall and the inner fender was off by 1/4" and you could see light throw it after I removed all the undercoating. Must have been built on a Monday morning.
  23. I was arguing with some of the oldschool guys on Facebook, Kelvin pipped up with his car that had the "Penultimate" rear crossmember. He raised the crossmember to some crazy height in his tube frame car. Which to me was odd. I would have put Miata suspension or something good back there before putting the stock stuff back in. Never the less, I couldn't remember how the roll center works with semi trailing arms. It looks like it's not ride height dependent, it's calculated using the rear swing arm pivots point angles. Yes a super low car will have really bad squat when accelerating. So for fun I thought I would scan the rear suspension and make a model out of it so see what exactly happens. So guys what do we really know? Looking up pictures of how the roll center works it's hard to see exactly what happens since the sketches are always with level arms...... Is it just squat that makes are cars feel odd in the back when they get super low? Yes my model is crude, maybe later I will clean it up.
  24. Does rust only sleep if it's in a bed?
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