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Icehouse

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Everything posted by Icehouse

  1. The CAN/AM box just makes the wiring easier. I would leave the car as is. Install the SR and enjoy it. If you make it to nice you won't want to drive it unless it's a nice sunny day or you will end up getting so deep into the project you might loose interest. I would keep the shell as is and focus on the drive train. I can tell you from experience the beaters are the fun cars. I drive my SR 510 every day, rain or shine. Me and my good buddy Sam make a rack and pinion kit that allows you to keep a bottom mount turbo setup. Saves money and time while making it drive nice. Not sure if you've ever driven a datsun with a steering box....... rack and pinion conversion
  2. The finished product.
  3. If I had a nickle for every 510 I've welded a front clip on..... 🙂
  4. Sure am loving the turbo SR! Even with no intercooler and tinny exhaust its way more power then before. I've now driven it at 3 events. My next upgrade will be brakes. The stock brakes are fading by the end of 1 lap. At the last event they were so bad they didn't even last a 1 minute lap. Which allowed a few guys on Hoosiers to beat me..... Damn. I am surprised how fast I got used to the power. It already feels normal and I want more haha. There was two driving instructors at the last event. One of them said if there was an award for the most wreckless driver I would have got it. Which I took as a compliment. My thoughts are if I botch a lap why would I not find the limits on the remaining coarse? If it slides a lot I will try and connect the gates with a drift 🙂 Also when my car was low powered you had to carry every drop of speed you could. Might as well continue to do that or at least test. On a more technical level I asked Jeff who runs the timing system if he would text me my top speed at the last gate since his system can do that. I was very surprised that no matter how well I did the final transition onto the last straight my top speed was within 1/2 MPH of 75mph my goal was to get to 80mph which turns out wasn't possible... There was a Porsche GT3 and it make it to 93mph!! That's out of 12 laps too. Sometimes I drifted onto the straightaways, sometimes super clean without a slide at all...... All about 75mph
  5. I did once have 3 68's. I only have 2 now. Sold one.... shouldn't have done that.
  6. Dude you need a lift! So nice. I'm already wondering why I didn't buy one years ago.
  7. Time to get this one back in the shop! Needed some help pushing it. little dusty from 10 years of sitting.
  8. Had it up on the lift installing a wide band 02.
  9. Some update pics of the truck.
  10. The answer is always Honda bond. I've tried others OEM glues and they just aren't as good. You can get two tubes on Amazon for the price of 1 at the dealer. If the surfaces are clean it works amazing!! I even used it on my kitchen sink as plumbers putty is a joke.
  11. Here are the photos of the damage
  12. Icehouse

    Honda powered?

    I feel like any person should choose the motor they like. I didn't feel like they made the best pitch for the K24. In the end it was fully built even though it can handle high power without being built.
  13. Icehouse

    Honda powered?

    anything on factory ECU is going to be the most reliable. IMO
  14. Icehouse

    Honda powered?

    It's going to be the same things that the honda needs. Actually probably less since it's already turbo.
  15. Icehouse

    SR20VET

    After witnessing Sam's awesome VE plus T build and going for a ride I decided I wanted to try a VET. Sam and I both want to build full on race cars. How fun would it be to build a VET Racecar! We did look into the K24 Honda engine it just seemed like a better idea to go with the VET since it's 280hp stock and I'm sure it will handle a few more PSI making it 300hp on a factory setup which will make it a reliable Racecar. The K24 didn't come turbo so it's about 200hp.... not enough. Since the VET's are getting so low in price especially compared to the DET's. There are a list of things that need to be sorted out. We will go over them in this thread. We each needed on of coarse so we had them shipped to work. First issue is converting it to RWD manual transmission. We wanted to use the RWD flywheel like Sam did. One company that's working on the conversion. Not sure if they finished it or not cut the flex plate starter gear off and welded it onto the RWD flywheel. Since Sam already crossed this bridge we thought... Pulsar vs. VET bell pattern fffewwwww They are the same. Aww and just like that there is the solution. Sure glad we paid more for the engine that came with the MAF and starter.... Two motors and one MAF that we got... the other harness doesn't even have the MAF plug... Now to get a transmission to fit. We do need to sort out the pilot bushing at some point. This is a scan of the RWD block VS. FWD block. Although in this shot they aren't clocked perfect (somehow didn't get a shot of them clocked perfect) You can see how lots of the holes do line up. Since we don't really want to run a 71C since they are getting hard to find and these motors start 300hp we are going to skip to a bigger transmission that's easy to find. So the CD009 won. The Z32 was an option but it weighted the same as the CD009 120lbs. In the rough can you can see the starter side is different. Sam doing some scanning. Looks like it can work. Gotta get the clocking correct and make a prototype. Testing the scans. Everything looks correct.
  16. Thanks. For an 86 it is in killer shape. I want to get the bumpers and ladder rack powder coated to match the wheels. Then it would really look slick. I get flashed sometimes because they are so bright! I need to aim them down maybe. Since I don't daily drive it I haven't gotten around to it. I use it only for truck things. The sealed beams I had were so dim it was pathetic. Turns out after buying the LED's my headlight switch was bad.... The sealed beams were only getting 8v! So I bought a brand new Nissan head light switch from the Stealership. only 20 more bucks then the after market unit which I bought at first, turned out to also be bad in a different way..... I think someone may have done the old swappy swappy to save some dollars and I got their junk unit. O yeah... And the first set of headlights had a bad bulb.. So I also had to return those for a new set. Was a long project.
  17. So you did a blow through setup? You didn't have to retune it?
  18. Will do! That car is still around. Which is good.
  19. Got new wheels and tires. The wheels are just SE wheels I had powder coated black. The tire are BFG's. The old tires were really old, which makes sense since the truck only had 61k on it when I bought it. Now it has 72k! The new tires have 2 more plies then the old ones. You sure can tell when hauling anything heavy or towing our little trailer. I just buffed it a few days ago. Sure shines up great! Plus on the computer you can't notice any of the dings and small dents 🙂
  20. Since everything has been canceled, well except work.. It's time to swap in the turbo motor. Since the future economy is looking gloomy I decided to just make it work with all stuff I have laying around. So for now I won't be running any sort of cooler. I plan to add an air to water setup later. For now it's like the FJ20 I have in the corner of my shop. J-piped like 80's turbo motors. Also just going to send it through the old 2" exhaust haha.
  21. Inner and outer are the same size.
  22. Icehouse

    Microquirted L20b

    Pull the plug wires and flip them. swap 1 and 2 and then swap 3 and 4 so they are on opposite coils.
  23. Icehouse

    Microquirted L20b

    I agree with the above. I've Megasquirted 3 L series engines. I hate the 36-1 wheels, they get such a shit signal. I think you have your coils flipped. Swap them and see if it lights.
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