Charlie69 Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 Hey Hacked, what are you using so the fiberglass does not stick to your dash? Do you need a turnsignal switch? This is going to be fun to watch your progress. Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted July 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 covering the entire dash with masking tape and then spraying it with white lithium grease. after that i spray it with plastic spray paint, seams to work allright. the turn signal switch i dont really need. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 Great progress dude. Can't wait to see a vid of it boost'n! Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 Tin foil doesn't stick to fiberglass...... masking tape doesn't either........ mylar makes stuff smooth If you can find "Roma Plastina" at a art/ceramic store..... it is automotive sculpting clay for making fiberglass molds Quote Link to comment
TheProcess Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 damn cool! i seriously gotta get out and start doing something, but this rain is balls, i think its time to build a full workshop!! Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted December 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 Finally, some updates. Its been a while since the last one, ive actually been busy working on other projects. Like putting a 750 v4 into a quad and some other more mild ones. Pictures of progress on the quad: My trucks progess: I decided to back half my truck and use a different frame after finding some kinks. I'll get some more pictures up when i get a chance. Sorry for the bad cell phone pictures. Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted December 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 better pictures!!! and I got some more work done. I just about have the back done, its going to be seeing a narrowed rearend that has five lugs and can fit the tires ill be running. On the front end ill run a 2" dropped pinto spindle with a granada hub and gm metric brake callipers. Kinda a Frankenstein setup but it works out, we use it on our dirt modified. :cool: my rear tires the lower link i made these bungs, haha bung, anyways that i welded in to mount the bag to. picture of the frame picture of the panhard bar mount another picture of the frame and another one of the frame. picture of the fuel cell, its a 16 gallon. tranny crossmember some of the bracing for the frame. I gotta finish welding every thing in the back and then pressure test the two lower rails to try and find leaks, seeing that these are going to be my air tanks. :D Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 keep posting this is coming out great Quote Link to comment
greengo Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 Take some buffing compound and tape the vavle cover up and buff it then take tape off and wash with hot water and soap.. Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 all right got some updates I started doing the 5 lug conversion on the front end. im using 2" dropped pinto spindles, which are surprisingly close to a 620 spindle. The 2" drop lets me not have to pie cut the upper a-arm to allow it to truly lay frame. first problem, lower balljoint hole on the spindle needs to be reamed bigger to accept the lower balljoint on the 620 lower arm. second problem, the tierod end to connect to the spindle is too small...no big deal i was going to use heims and swedge tubes anyways. my rotors new bearings and seals calipers caliper to spindle bracket it all came in a kit with all the hardware from speedway and is really good quality so far. i also got a little more work done on the frame. I capped the back two tubes and welded all of the underneath welds on the 2x4 stuff...i gotta test the frame rails now to see if they're air tight. oh and a little ball joint separator tool i made Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 i like the ball joint separator but everything is else even better Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted February 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2011 small update. decided that since i have almost all the parts, to run the carbed turbo setup with the airbox and everything. So i started to make a new turbo header, didnt come out as nice as i wanted but it will work a lot better than a log manifold. I still have to finish all the welds, put in a a pipe for the wastegate and weld on the flange for the turbo to mount to. Pics: i have to cut the pipes back a lot shorter. im gonna run by the nearest Volkswagen shop sometime next week to get some jets and a rebuild kit for the weber carb. next on the list, start running lines for brakes, fuel, and air.... oh and the battery and mount for battery. then once thats all done i can start fitting my cab. Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 I got the header pretty much welded up with a flange, need to put a waste gate on it and call it good. Im gonna end up getting rid of the stock steering box and going manual rack and pinion. Im tired of clearance issues with the steering. Ill post up pictures tomorrow of how it all looks. Also might have gotten my hands on a stock 521 bed :D hopefully. What is everyones opinions on v bands to use to connect the down pipe to the flange? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 I dont know how I have never clicked on this thread before, but it is definitely one of my favorites! Good work, and keep at it!! Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 What is everyones opinions on v bands to use to connect the down pipe to the flange? Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 allright then v-band it is, i had the flange allready made i just need to do the downpipe side of the v band. and for those that think it doesnt snow in Tucson, Arizona.... it melted quite a bit but you get the idea Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 figured since i was watching a repeat episode of top gear on tv, i could post an update! Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 Looking good Hacked. I am curious as to how you are going to put the collumn in. I have a 1980 steering gear box and tie ro rods & center link that put the bos on the outside of the frame rail & is rag jointed if this might help you. Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 Thanks Charlie, im switching it over to rack and pinion and right hand drive, pulled a rack out of a honda hatchback. Should have pics of the rack mounted by the end of the day. Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 got the rack and pinion mounted on the frame. having it rack and pinion and rhd makes it sooooo much less complicated than having it lhd. Having this rack and pinion just took a huge weight off my shoulders. Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 Well just about got a battery box done just have to notch it for the battery cables, planning on mounting it in the back next to the fuel cell. Started to get the front brakes all done too. Quote Link to comment
Zeke- Aus- Li Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 lookin gooood :D Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 Care to share what the R&P came out of? How wide is this R&P at the inner tie rod pivots? Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 its out of a 96 honda hatchback, im not sure what the width is i can measure it later today. You cant use it as lhd drive, it would be backwards steering. thanks for the compliments!!!! Quote Link to comment
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