hacked's 521 (turbo bagged right hand drive)

[datzenmike]

Hey Keith. Can't really call you a noob. :lol:

 

Posting on line photos on Ratsun

[Charlie69]

Hey Hacked you have some really good help on this turbo thing. Even help from Canada. This is wha tmakes me continue to be a member of Ratsun, the world of knowledge from helpful people.

 

Your truck rocks Hacked and I can not wait for the day you pull up in my driveway with it!

 

Keep up the good work Hacked!

 

I thank all that contribute to Ratsun!

[bertvorgon]

I think you first need to figure out WHY the regulator is bypassing. What sort of fuel pressure does your pump make? My 280ZX pump puts out about 55 PSI, and that Holley regulator, with the higher pressure spring handles it just fine. By putting a restriction before that regulator, you are defeating the purpose of have a good fuel delivery system, in regards to volume.

 

In reality, and obviously depending on how much boost you are going to try to run, you only need maybe a max pressure of 20 PSI.

 

Say you want to run 7 lbs of boost...you only need a fuel pressure at the needle and seat of 7 + 3.5 = 10-11 psi total.

 

Sorry, I not going to get the whole photo bucket thing going, maybe I can send stuff to Jeff, then he can post it up.

 

I will read through this whole post, and see if I can get a sense of what is going on. There have been many of these types of systems like mine lurking about over the years, and they have worked just fine with this type of fuel system. The carb/motor combo works just like any carb setup that works well, and can make awesome, reliable power. James's 1800 made 180+ HP at the rear wheels, and mine made

250 HP at the rear wheels.

 

Fuel octane will be your limiting factor, as the 91 octane you get, will only support some quick blasts at higher boost numbers. Maybe pop over to the 510 Realm website, and read the section on turbocharging.

 

Personally, I would get rid of that plastic oil pressure gauge line, I have seen more of those things fail......we just had a similair situation almost get one of the 510 guys up here, this past summer.

 

http://www.the510rea....php?f=30&t=407

[hacked521]

Keith, ive heard a lot of good stuff about you. Glad you could help me out with this deal. Ok heres what i got so far, i have no restrictions before the fuel pump. I have my pressure setup at 3.5 psi at idle. I have a valve on the return line, at the gas tank that acts as the restriction. The plastic oil line is just temporary for now so i made sure i had oil pressure, i know they dont deal with heat too well. I have a boost line going into the top of the regulator that has the hole drilled all the way through the adjuster bolt. Im going to make sure tomorrow that the regulator is doing its job as boost goes up with the air hose tomorrow.

 

I did a test run today, in nuetral its perfectly fine. Ill let it warm up and then rev it and hold it at 2000 and it wont run out of fuel. However when i took it out for a drive, different story. Its acting as if its running out of fuel, i have to pump it while in the throttle to keep it going. I had to do this before i had the rest of the exhaust attached to the turbo but it was a lot worse when i didnt have a muffler and the rest of the exhaust hooked up.

 

The fuel pump is out of a 280zx and it is brand new. I have been reading some over on the 510 realm and saw that a majority of people are using the 280zx fuel pump.

 

It took me about two weeks to get the fuel pressure down to where it wouldnt push through the needle and seat, so i know about the patience it takes haha. i ran too small of a line then on the return, which i should have known was going to create pressure.

 

Keith, would the valve work on the return or should i try drilling out a peice of material to .030. Oh! and i bought a book turbochargers by Hugh Maclnnes that has been somewhat helpful. I am welcome to all sources of information i can get. Its nice having the internet because it makes it easier to grab this information from people like you Keith and everyone else on ratsun and other forums as well.

[bertvorgon]

Morning World,

 

Sounds like you have a handle on it..almost.

 

I would think, just thinking of the valve vs drilled restriction, that either should work...but....I would maybe go with the restriction. I say this because that valve may still flow more as the fuel pressure starts to come up.....not sure about that, as that is an unknown variable that I have no experience with.

 

Are we sure that the carb is ok? What you describe almost sounds like the carb is not fueling properly, once you try to get past the idle circuit. This is only valid IF...the needle and seat is not sticking open for whatever reason. Assuming you have a fuel pressure gauge on the carb side of the regulator ( to show fuel pressure at the needle and seat, it should just rise up as the pressure rises in the air box. IF you are not boosting, fuel pressure should stay at the 3.5 PSI, or whatever you have it set at.

 

Are you also talking about, that past 2000 rpm, with NO boost, it starts to die? Again, if you have to "pump it", that means you are needing the accelerator pump shot to try to keep it running, which again suggests that the main circuit is plugged or restricted,,or just plain way too lean.

 

Describe the carb to me, does it have a primary and secondary barrel(s)? Is the float level ok? Lets say the float level is way too low, that would fuel the idle circuit/no load situation ok, but, as soon as you start to drive, the increased LOAD, which requires more fuel, cannot sustain the engine running cleanly.

 

Also..that 3.5 PSI needle and seat pressure is for a Weber 32/36, which is what we all have used. If your carb is not that, you need to double check what it's pressure reqirement is. Not all carbs are the same.

 

Hope that helps some...

 

keith

 

Hey Brandon, I just noticed you are in Tucson...cool, I have an aunt and cousin that live there! I was down there many years ago, really liked the place, sure was HOT. They live up on the Bluffs overlooking the city.

 

OH....now I see where everybody goes when they are not on the REALM...I recognize a lot of names here this morning.....

[Charlie69]

Hey Hacked, I have a manual choke 32/36 Weber I will sell you cheap if this is what you decide. Please post some pictures of your truck we need another fix!

[hacked521]

The carb is a two barrel rochester that I had on there before the turbo setup. The carb does not have a secondary but does have an accelerator pump. When I was driving my truck before the turbo setup it ran great, that's why I didn't see it as a problem.

[hacked521]

ok so i think i found my problem with the fuel issue. when i went to check to see if the regulator was doing its job as boost increased i found out it was leaking. i dabbed some silicone on the threads and set the fuel pressure back at 3.5. I'm waiting for it to dry so i can try it out. Since it was leaking, it makes sense as to why it was running out of fuel.

 

Sorry Charlie, no new updates except some minor stuff; got heavier gauge battery cables ran on the ground and power for the battery. been trying to work out the bugs on this turbo setup haha.

[hacked521]

well the regulator was the what wasnt working, ran good and strong for the 1/4 mile that i tested it. That is until i heard a loud screach. The shaft on the turbo now has play in it. <_< I'm going to have it rebuilt and while its down probably do disk brakes on the front. i need to get this thing to stop. Does anyone know how much a turbo rebuild generally costs and on any clues as to where to send the turbo to?

[hacked521]

Well the rebuild for the turbo is gonna cost around $200 <_< , gonna do that once i get back home. Im getting a weber for it also thanks to charlie69 and should be able to have a much better turbo setup. soon coming should be some front disc brakes :D , nothing you guys are new to.

[sssr20det510]

Looking good keep up the good work

[hacked521]

I was wondering how I could get the title on this to change over to ratrod bagged turbo 521.

[INDY510]

You should be able to edit the first post....

 

 

And change the "topic title"

[fisch]

Done! Though I added your name so it is easier to search for!

[Charlie69]

Thanks Fisch for hookin hacked up with name change. He is a really tallented mechanic fabricator.

 

OK Hacked Pictures Please we need a fix! :D

[hacked521]

Ok so i finally got my computer back after it got a pretty nasty virus. I got some updates for you guys

- Pulled the motor and tranny to install the 5speed and a new clutch kit.

- Started to make a center consol that will have...wait for it... Cup Holders!!! and a spot to put my papers.

- Started making alluminum inner fender-wells to try and clean up the engine bay a bit and i just got bored

- Going to get started converting the steering shaft over to a collapsible type and move the steering wheel away while im it, i need more room.

- I got the new airbox and carb on the motor and installed a set of MSD spark plug wires.

 

Ill get pictures up here by the end of the day. Dial up takes a while to upload pictures.

[hacked521]

pictures finally, i hate dial up.

motors out

old 4 speed

the start of a better looking engine bay

the other side

the center console

the air box on the motor, definitely gonna have to do a cowl hood when i do a body drop itll barely fit as it is.

new to me msd plugs wires, theyre better than what the stockers were.

 

there yuh go, ive been working on putting an enclosed trailer back together, not to mention keeping a racecar going for the weekend races, which doesnt leave much time to work on the datsun project. but the trailer is almost done so i should get back at it within a couple months.

[hacked521]

All right, gonna bring this build thread back from the dead. Got some new parts in and still have to get more.

heres the new stuff that i got:

-intercooler

- external wastegate

-new t3/t4 turbo

-single piece adapter plate for the carb

 

Still need to get...

-t3 stainless flange for the header side

-rest of the v band stuff for the downpipe

-stainless 3" exhaust bellow

-stainless weld elbows for turbo header

-stainless header flange

-correct weber jets and float

- all silicone connectors for intercooler and turbo connections.

-maybe a new wiring harness

 

well thats it for now, ill get pictures up eventually of how the truck and motor sits now. I got the intercooler pretty much fitted where i wanted it. I started on removing the innerfenderwells. pollished and painted the distributor. and something else that i know im forgetting...oh well.

[hacked521]

new turbo

downpipe flange

new wastegate

cleaned up the front of the engine a little bit, couldnt stand how greasy it was.

painted and pollished the distributor a bit, i think it looks a lot better

an idea for the valve cover, i want it all black except the letters and ridges on the top to be pollished and then on this side i want to pollish in a rising sun. let me know what you guys think.

[sssr20det510]

Get it done, let's see some more

[Charlie69]

Looking good hacked.

 

So whats up with your L20B 5 speed? Are you going to switch the turbo to the L20B in the future?

 

I here it casts between $1500 & $2000 to turbo an L motor. I sthis true?

 

What about FI or throttle body injection?

[hacked521]

the 5 speed will be going in when i put the 1600 back in just to get me a vehicle to drive...with a turbo haha. The l20b is going to be a true turbo engine; forged sr20 pistons, z22 crank, oringed block bored out, ported and pollished head. If i have the money by the time all that happens, i really want to do fuel injection but with two sets of four injectors; one set to go off with just regular fuel and as boost goes up the second set will quench the engine with methanol.

 

well, if you want to do it right, dont have good people on ratsun that help you out and dont get a deal on a new turbo...i say yeah it does....the flange for this stainless header in material costs alone, is about $194.

[hacked521]

started to get the intercooler fitted, i need to weld in the front body piece back in once i hammer out some dents and clearance a little more for the intercooler.

also got the inner fender wells cut out and will be putting bracing back in.

[Charlie69]

Looks like a good fit Hacked. Keep at it. Little by little and soon you will be driving again.

[hacked521]

well got some stuff to show you guys and some news. I figure with all the trouble of pulling the engine out later just to put the l20 in, i might as well do a quick rebuild on the l20 and throw it in there with the 5 speed. I also started making a fiberglass dash, not just and overlay. Gonna start cleaning up the firewall, fenderwells and engine bay area and will spray a coat of gloss black enamel on it. Also started on making the steering column separate from the steering box, similar to what charlie69 did.

first layer of glass for the dash pieces

boost gauge

start of the turning signal switch mount

steering column

turning signal switch

battery shut off switch (the oh s#!t switch)