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My 1971 521


d.p

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I switched to the cardboard + copper spray and put that one to bed.  I then had to the beat the shit out of my exhaust to get it to clear the trans and torsion bar but it still doesn't mate to the rear section.   I think at this point I am just going to have to leave it and take it to an exhaust shop once its running.   

 

But when doing all this I noticed a fairly large puddle under my truck right under the slave and brake tee but I couldn't figure out where it was coming from.  There was liquid up on the firewall and behind the head so whatever leaked had enough pressure to get that high up.  There is only brake fluid in the truck and the only thing I did was top off the rear master cylinder reservoir.  Neither of the 2 brake reservoirs or the clutch reservoir were empty so I really don't know what happened.    Both the clutch and the brake pedal still have pressure so at a loss as to where it came from.  

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2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't like those gaskets with the siamesed middle exhaust ports, but it's super hard to find one that has them separated these days. The Remflex gaskets look good, but are super thick and I wonder if this could lead to manifold warpage or cracking.


It takes very little to crush the gasket. It’s layered graphite. The whole point of their gasket is that is seals off imperfections better than other gaskets. Neil and I run them and have had good luck with them.

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Making progress on the mfer.  Just need to mount the alternator, oil pump, battery and make some spark plug cables.   I also need to figure out what I am going to do about my exhaust but will probably have it towed to an exhaust shop and have them figure it out. 

EE4FFBE2-E021-4BE6-8757-75275188364E.jpeg

Edited by d.p
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On 2/7/2021 at 9:45 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't like those gaskets with the siamesed middle exhaust ports, but it's super hard to find one that has them separated these days. The Remflex gaskets look good, but are super thick and I wonder if this could lead to manifold warpage or cracking.

 

I have the same problem with the R1600 engine in my RL411 [ and will also apply to the 1600 roadsters ] so I got some good gasket material. cut a patch and fixed it in place with a dab of muffler sealant,  The open exhaust hole of the gasket fits around the patch and works well.

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1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

You mean the temperature sensor for the electric fans?


Autometer water temp gauge but guess I don’t really need it if the stock one works?  Can you even use both? Or can I tee of the stock wire to an aftermarket guage? 

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4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Reading temperature of the rad is... meaningless. You want something inside the engine. Some thermostat housings have multiple threaded holes for sensors or senders. 280z/zx do.


Goddamn it I have the two threaded lower t-stat housing that I took off to install the single threaded housing because I didn’t think I needed two threaded holes.  
 

fuck me.  

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Anyone know the thread and pitch of the second threaded hole on these housings?  It’s the one facing away from the block towards the drivers side fender.  Circled in red below is the one I am trying to figure out as the other bigger one accepts the standard adapter and sender.  

 

E5919A42-69B2-43C5-858A-3B810A8C97BF.jpeg

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13 hours ago, d.p said:

Anyone know the thread and pitch of the second threaded hole on these housings?  It’s the one facing away from the block towards the drivers side fender.  Circled in red below is the one I am trying to figure out as the other bigger one accepts the standard adapter and sender.  

 

E5919A42-69B2-43C5-858A-3B810A8C97BF.jpeg

Probably bspt..... my guess is 1/4... 

 

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11 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Amazon has thread gauges for under $10. This thread question has been asked a lot.


If everyone got their Datsun information from somewhere else what would you have to post about Mike? 
 

 

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