Draker Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 That looks better than the adapters you had before. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 2 minutes ago, Draker said: That looks better than the adapters you had before. I figured as much, I was just buying things to try and get something to work. I have a straight 3/8 - 24 x 1/8 NPT on its way which will give me a options without have to string a daisy chain a bunch of adapters. But if I want to run the dummy switch + oil pressure gauge then its going to have to look something like this because I have to get around the 3/8-24 bullshit. Or I do what stoffgren says and run it all to a block on the firewall. But I think for now I will just use one or the other to keep it simple. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 (edited) d.p the 720s use an elctric oil pressure guage with a dash warning light. The sender for these have 2 wires. The pictures show the oil gauge and the volt meter. The second picture is the sender included. These are found in the 720 4x4s and most of the ST models. These are Nissan factory parts. The thread on this sender is the same. Edited January 22, 2021 by Charlie69 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 What do you have that requires the 3/8 - 24? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 1 minute ago, Charlie69 said: What do you have that requires the 3/8 - 24? He has an L20b block modified by previous owner.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 That sucks! Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 Can someone tell me how to disconnect the throttle cable from the gas pedal? Is there an easy way? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 (edited) MCMaster-Carr shows a 3/8 NPTM to a 1/8 BPTF reducer bushing. https://www.mcmaster.com/bspt-to-npt-pipe-fitting-adapters/brass-and-bronze-pipe-and-pipe-fittings/ Edited January 22, 2021 by Charlie69 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 In my McMaster-Carr post above I added a jpg with the 1/8 BPTF to3/8 NPTM circled in red. I like this option. This give you the ability to run what ever you want. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 You don't really NEED that adapter for the sending unit. One cool thing about the remote aluminum block is that you can tap the hole to BSPT instead of NPT for your Datsun sender. Sure, the threads won't be perfect, but with sealer like Threebond 1211 on the threads, you'll never know the difference. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 (edited) 33 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: You don't really NEED that adapter for the sending unit. One cool thing about the remote aluminum block is that you can tap the hole to BSPT instead of NPT for your Datsun sender. Sure, the threads won't be perfect, but with sealer like Threebond 1211 on the threads, you'll never know the difference. Sorry I actually disagree.... You can retap a bspt to an npt but not really the other way.... you remove material making the npt thread... However you could screw the bspt into the npt with some sealant.... it goes in looser but will snug up and it will sit a little deeper in the hole... Edited January 22, 2021 by Crashtd420 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Fuck if it were that easy to tap the block I would but I don't think that is even an option at this point. But fuck me if this isn't turning out to be the biggest pain in the ass with this entire truck. Having to figure out thread sizes, adapters, switches, and all that other nonsense is just crazy to me. Those McCaster-Carr adapters wouldn't even work because they don't even pass through (2 of 3 don't) so not even sure why I thought they would. So I sent those back, and that 3 way that everyone uses that I got is a POS because the 2 holes aren't even the same thread (supposed to all be 1/8 NPT). So right now my only hope is that scuba gear adapter works or I am stuck using that brake line adapter to AN then to a gauge or a block. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 One other thing to consider is the length of the thread going into the block. If the threads are too long, they can block the oil galley. Best to measure the depth before you commit to anything. Worst case, you can hack off a couple of the threads and install a copper crush washer. But don't forget the sealer on the threads. Crash is right. The BSPT is a tad smaller than the NPT, but my point was that you have some wiggle room to fudge it. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Well I spent about $200+ on adapters, AN hose, gauges, oil blocks and other shit so I should more than enough to solve my oil pressure problem. So while I wait for all that nonsense to be delivered I decided I should figure out my throttle cable and the dual Mikunis but struck out there as well. I spent like $300 on a Kyusha House throttle cable with a lokar cable only to find out it that its a bitch to make work. I wish there was a simple way to use my stock throttle cable but if there is I don't know about it. I also had the throttle cable that came with the engine (out of a 510) but its female cap that screws into the firewall is bigger than the male end on my firewall so it wouldn't screw in so that was out. That would have been the easy way because it was already setup for the dual mikunis. Spent like 4 hours trying to figure out what to do and still don't know. I may just run my weber and stock throttle cable just just so I can the truck moving. Does anyone knownif a weber 32/36 on a l16 would use the same jets on a camm'd and bored l20b? 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 You might have to rejet it. Did the Weber run rich on the L16? Easiest way to check is take you finger and run it around the inside of your exhaust pipe. if your finger comes out black it was running rich. I would putthe Weber on and see how it does. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Yeah it ran rich, plugs were always black. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 (edited) You might have to re jet but try it first. You might get a pleasant surprise. Man you are sure do one. Edited January 26, 2021 by Charlie69 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Ok dummy light and or oil pressure gauge (electrical) options. Not sure how to mount the tee but I did order the one @Stoffregen Motorsports suggested but it hasn't shown up. What say ye? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Purdy, but over complicated for sure. This.. would have done. Bigtanker is rubbing off on you. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 5 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Purdy, but over complicated for sure. This.. would have done. Bigtanker is rubbing off on you. Is one pin the resistance reading for the gauge and the other for the dummy light? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Yup. You can't watch the gauge constantly so best keep the red dash light functional. The 720 gauge is nice, has matching volt meter and it's own pod. It's damped so it doesn't jump around like a mechanical or some electrical ones. Auto makers could run un-damped gauges but the public has no clue how to interpret the readings. A sudden stop can cause total loss of pressure. I had this when young and freaked me out. Turns out the oil just slopped forward uncovering the pick up tube and the pressure was back in seconds. It did this thousand of times before the gauge told me. Ignorance is bliss. This is why the idiot light is set for only 8 PSI, the driver doesn't need to know and it's only going to upset them. Many factory gauges don't even have numbers just a dial. Hot idle is much lower that cold engine idling. Owners would only obsess over why their friends engine runs with 3 PSI more than them. Hell the 720 only has 45 and 90 marked. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Well no way I would install that 70s porno looking gauge setup in my truck. I have auto meter oil pressure and water temp gauges that are going in under the radio. 2 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 46 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Bigtanker is rubbing off on you. Wasn't directed at you. (well.... the quote was) I imagine you can interpret oil pressure readings and fluctuations unlike most on the road. They don't need to know.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 26, 2021 Report Share Posted January 26, 2021 3 hours ago, d.p said: What say ye? I would go with just the idiot light with a single fitting in the block to keep it simple.... If you really want to add the gauge I'd use this setup, seems like it would do the same as the fancy block you bought.... Do you need to bleed the air out some how? Does the block have something on it to allow that? Just wondering.... 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2021 I bought the gauges so I figure I might as well use them. But I agree I can use that 3/8-24 to 1/8 NPT adapter in the block if I just want one or the other. I don’t know whether I have to bleed it but the block doesn’t have a way to do that. Fancy block was $20 and that tee was $15 I think but the fancy block has mounting holes which the tee doesn’t. I’ve learned through all of this is that advertised 1/8” NPT is not always 1/8” NPT. Seems to be a lot of variance to what threads in nice and tight and what doesn’t. 2 Quote Link to comment
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