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My 1971 521


d.p

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Yeah could be. Just so I understand when you put in R then the trans pushes on the switch/plunger which turns the reverse lights on?  I will go ahead and order another 280zx one as whatever I have isn't working anyways. 

 

Regarding my steering wheel @datzenmike said this in other thread " The underside of the wheel has a circular brass ring. The steering column has a small spring loaded  brass pin sticking up.  When the wheel is fitted, the pin rubs the brass ring in any position the wheel is turned to keep in contact. The wheel transmits this through the horn button to ground to activate the horn relay." 

 

 

 

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Yes, they all have the ring, but the "button" itself is a POS.  On mine it's a stupid ring making electrical contact through a spring, suspended by rubber grommets.  Basically, I'm suggesting your "button" is stuck in the shorted/pressed position, so you need to disconnect the S wire at the relay so the relay isn't constantly on, then figure out your button situation.

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9 hours ago, thisismatt said:

You don't have a meter?


yeah but no idea what I am supposed to test because it has power.  

 

As soon as put the turn signal collar/ring on the column and either tighten the screw (pic below) that holds it to the column or put the steering wheel on the horn activates.  

 

I don’t know what the “button” looks like. Is it the copper pin on the wheel itself? 
 

 

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The horn switch wiring is the light green w/black stripe that connects through the turn signal switch wiring.  You need to test the wire for continuity to ground.  The horn switch relay should have green to H, green w/blue stripe to B, and light green w/black to S.  Disconnect the light green w/black to S at the relay so you can test the circuit without the horn relay engaging.  Then, with the horn button off, I would start testing all the parts where the horn button interfaces for ground continuity.  Test the springy metal that the steering wheel ring makes contact through.  If that is open to ground, put the wheel on and check the part that makes continuity through the wheel to the "button" areas.  Since you say that it sets off the horn as soon as you put that screw in to the turn signal switch, without the wheel on, then it sounds like the problem is in the switch and you need to check that there is no short between the light green w/black stripe wire and any of the turn signal switch metal - for instance, the springy metal bar that contacts the steering wheel ring should have a plastic standoff under it, and an insulating washer between the screw and the springy metal, otherwise it is shorted to ground.

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Alright so if I disconnect the harness at the column and leave the S connected (horns disconnected) and test continuity from the switch I get noise when touching the black/green stripe wire in the harness (side attached to turn signal switch) and the steering column.  The other 3 wires in the harness don’t have any continuity. 
 

should that copper strip/arm on the turn signal switch be touching the back of the wheel? 

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Have to do something about my exhaust as it dumps right under the cab and the open tunnel is no bueno.  Not even sure I want to start it up with it like this.   Surely no interest in driving it around in its current state.  There isn’t enough room to push the rear section up to meet it.  The rear section hits the bottom of the cab. 

 

 

 

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Got my exhaust sorted thanks to @Crashtd420 who told me to buy a flex pipe and cut it to make it work.  I did but the stupid torsion bars get in the way so I had to cut it higher then I wanted to.  Should work and only temporary to allow me to get it running and then take it to an exhaust shop.  

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11 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Would you do that to your BMW or your wife's Mercedes?

 

Do what exactly to my BMW or my wife's Mercedes?  

 

10 hours ago, thisismatt said:

You gonna finish tightening that nut? 😄

 

Did you fix the reverse lights?

 

That pic was right before I finished it up but the pic I took after had some weird flare in it so I just posted that one instead.  Good eye though.   Reverse lights are working with the new 280zx specific switch.   I guess a 521 4 speed switch just doesn't work in a 280ZX 5 speed. 

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1 minute ago, thisismatt said:

I think he's referring to the flex tube, but yeah...temp

 

Odd question to ask for obvious reasons but no I would never do it to either of our other cars.  Mainly because I would never swap the drivetrains out of them as they are plenty fast and capable unlike a stock L16 and 4 speed out of a 521.  🙄   

 

Temp until I can get it to the exhaust shop and get a 2" exhaust done.  Crash has $10 saying it will be months before I get it fixed so we will see. 

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Hell I could do that, get one of those 4" dryer pipe and go to town.  My intital cost would increase though from $9 to double digits I would imagine.  

 

Anyone ever watch roadkill?  I love that show and I felt like one of those dudes when I was doing it.  

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Yeah Finnegan is good.  You ever watch Roadkill Garage with Dulcitch?  HotRod Garage and Faster with Finnegan are good ones too although it seems new content is far and few in-between due to Covid.  

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I was talking to crash about starting this engine up the first time and whether I need to break it in.  Reason being is the cam, pistons, valves, crank, etc.. are not new.  The only new things inside the engine are the rings and bearings so what if anything do I need to do?  

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Make sure it's primed. Pull the spark plugs and use the starter to spin the engine until you get oil everywhere. Keep it up off of idle for a while so that it can maintain a decent oil pressure. Technically that's more important to protect a new cam/rockers, but you'll want to make sure your new main and rod bearings are getting plenty of oil.

 

Fill it up for the first time with conventional oil. Better for ring break-in, plus you'll be changing it fairly soon after break-in anyway.

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