d.p Posted March 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2021 Just now, mainer311 said: Make sure it's primed. Pull the spark plugs and use the starter to spin the engine until you get oil everywhere. Keep it up off of idle for a while so that it can maintain a decent oil pressure. Technically that's more important to protect a new cam/rockers, but you'll want to make sure your new main and rod bearings are getting plenty of oil. Fill it up for the first time with conventional oil. Better for ring break-in, plus you'll be changing it fairly soon after break-in anyway. I read and Crash mentioned that I can fill it up with oil (I use conventional Shell Rotella ), fill the oil pump and spin the oil pumpcounter-clockwise until oil comes out of the cam. But you are saying just fill it up with oil, fill the pump and just turn it over without the plugs installed until I see oil come out the cam? I have a remote starter that I got from Amazon but I also read somewhere those are a bad idea but why I don't know. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 3, 2021 Report Share Posted March 3, 2021 5 minutes ago, d.p said: I read and Crash mentioned that I can fill it up with oil (I use conventional Shell Rotella ), fill the oil pump and spin the oil pumpcounter-clockwise until oil comes out of the cam. But you are saying just fill it up with oil, fill the pump and just turn it over without the plugs installed until I see oil come out the cam? I have a remote starter that I got from Amazon but I also read somewhere those are a bad idea but why I don't know. You have the spindle cut so you can prime the pump why not use it.... either way works.... Why would using the remote starter be bad? Your just using it to engage the starter to spin the motor not actually starting it..... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2021 3 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: You have the spindle cut so you can prime the pump why not use it.... either way works.... Why would using the remote starter be bad? Your just using it to engage the starter to spin the motor not actually starting it..... Just some shit I read on here or some other Datsun forum about using a remote starter. Anecdotal at best I guess. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 3, 2021 Report Share Posted March 3, 2021 3 minutes ago, d.p said: Just some shit I read on here or some other Datsun forum about using a remote starter. Anecdotal at best I guess. I mean if you had it in gear you might run yourself over but that's about all I can think might happen... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2021 7 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: I mean if you had it in gear you might run yourself over but that's about all I can think might happen... Mental note.."make sure truck is not in gear." 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 3, 2021 Report Share Posted March 3, 2021 Yeah, either way works. I don't have a modified spindle, so I use the spark plug method. Removing the plugs prevents compression/suction so the engine spins over faster and gets the oil going. Just preference. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2021 1 minute ago, mainer311 said: Yeah, either way works. I don't have a modified spindle, so I use the spark plug method. Removing the plugs prevents compression/suction so the engine spins over faster and gets the oil going. Just preference. Word. Haven't installed the plugs yet so no issue there. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Ok I got it primed with oil until it came out the cam. Got the spindle clocked and dizzy installed. But I only have BR5ES plugs well I have BR6ES but only two of them. Can I use the 5s and if so what should I gap them to? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Change to BR6ES or BPR6ES later at your convenience. I can't remember everything from everyone's posts so if this is high compression perhaps over 9 a 5 heat range might be better. For now it not important. Gap 0.032" for a points dizzy and 0.038"-0.042" for EI. Idle only long enough to confirm a safe ignition advance. This is not a chev so you don't have anything valve related to break in. Chevs rely on oil flung off the rods to lube the cam and why they need a 20 min 2,000 RPM break in. This is a Datsun. It has it's own oil fed from the pump. There is no advantage to a slow or prolonged 'break in' of the rings. Bring up to temperature and drive it. Avoid idling or steady prolonged RMPs. Keep accelerating and decelerating as much as possible. Don't baby it. Check for coolant and oil leaks. Check oil level often. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Already got it out back together and it wants to turn but when it almost does it backfires out the last horn towards the FW. I HAVE no idea how to tune these mikunis and also wondering using this pedestal which is advance and which is retard?? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Twist the loosened distributor counter clockwise to retard the timing. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 It’s running and running pretty damn well if I do say so myself. Two issues, 1 the fan hits the bottom of the shroud and 2, leaking coolant out the top of the thermostat housing. Not sure what to do about either of those. video of it running here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FLGVOWhEibdhg32V9b75P_qv-TY6fNYh/view?usp=drivesdk Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Leaky t stat housing. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Hitting the bottom of the shroud. And now that I think about it the PO had glued washers to the inside of the fan and am now assuming the reason why is it hit the shroud. Wish I could zip tie the shroud closer to the radiator but nothing to zip tie it to. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 POs shroud, is metal or plastic preferable? Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) Mine is plastic and mine hit in the same spot. I trimmed the bottom portion off and all is well. Shroud material doesn’t really matter, it just allows the fan to pull more air through the radiator when you’re not moving. Looks pretty good so far. What jets came with the Mikunis? As for the leak, make sure the bolts aren’t too long and bottoming out before the cover gets clamped down. Edited March 7, 2021 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Push and pull asross 150 sand paper on a piece of glass. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Cool. I zip tied it to the crash bar for now. Also realized I installed the thermostat on top of the gasket which caused the leak. Fixed that and now driving back and forth in my driveway. Clutch engagement is SUPER short. Meaning I barely have to let it out for it to start moving. does anyone have a link for tuning mikunis? I mean is there anything other than the idle screws on these mfers? The rest is jetting? Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 5 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Push and pull asross 150 sand paper on a piece of glass. I think his housings are brand new. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 3 minutes ago, d.p said: Cool. Clutch engagement is SUPER short. Meaning I barely have to let it out for it to start moving. This could be air in the hydraulics. Does it grind from neutral to reverse? Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Sounds like your clutch throw isn’t long enough. Step 1: make sure you bleed it. Step 2: the ball on the slave may need to be screwed further out to press the throw out bearing farther. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Nah it shifts fine in and out of all gears. Just super short engagement. It’s been bled a couple times already and if it had air wouldn’t it go to the floor? Just feels like as soon as I push down on the clutch pedal it engages. Took it around the block and shifting is fine no grinding or anything but it struggled above 2k. I put the timing light on it but only checked for 12 at idle. Not sure what to shoot for at idle and above 3k with my setup. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 And slave ball further out meaning towards the back of the truck?? Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Well, I’m a little bit confused. You said as soon as you touch the clutch pedal, it disengages? Or does it engage right when it’s barely off the floor? Because those are opposite problems. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 So I have to barely touch it to engage/disengage when changing gears. not sure which is which I always get them confused. Quote Link to comment
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