My 1971 521

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I sometimes build cables with motorcycle or HD mountain bike cable stuff. Charlie's right. Rob the new cable for its components and simply get a new housing and inner cable.

[d.p]

Alright so I have a working (somewhat) throttle cable but I can't get it to go WOT.  Meaning there isn't enough pedal travel to pull the throttle all the way down to open the butterflies a 100%.  I don't even know how I could solve this as the pedal has 0 travel left at this point.   Here are a couple videos showing much it travels with the pedal and how much it needs to travel to get to WOT.  Excuse the horrible squeak as well as I have no idea why they are doing that but I just assume the springs or something needs to be lubed.  

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lDRPiOGmpunGR9pYTAYxBJLSBw-OWsDU/view?usp=sharing

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yIyEUkQ8WXaJ_O4YtkR2-hY-UnYRvpRp/view?usp=sharing

 

FIXED THIS SHIT BELOW.  

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 6, 2021 by d.p

[d.p]

shit no looking at the pics I dont even know if I can go WOT with that setup...meaning how can it with the bracket that high up?  It's pulling it back and not down.  

[thisismatt]

Longer cable and turn the bracket around (or set it clocked farther counterclockwise), and/or using the lower mounting position.

Edited February 6, 2021 by thisismatt

[d.p]

Just now, thisismatt said:

Longer cable and turn the bracket around, and/or using the lower mounting position.

 

Man I was just looking at how z cars do it and that arm is reversed on some of them.  

 

[thisismatt]

 If your pedal doesn't have enough throw at the cable end, then you need to lower the cable mount position on the lever arm at the carb end, or modify the pedal for more throw.

[datzenmike]

 

Cut the cable mount in half, drill new screw hole, make 90⁰ L bend, then move the cable down to the next set of holes or maybe even the bottom ones. This will pull closer to tangent and shortening the arm will increase the opening travel for the same pedal movement.

[d.p]

Ok this is what I did.  
 

I cut the ends off the 521 cable crash sent me and the end of the 510 cable that came with the engine.  The goal was to get the nut and ferrule from the 521 cable on the 510 sheath.   So I cut the ends off, pulled what little bit of sheath was left in each.  Slid the 521 nut on the 510 sheath and forced the 521 ferrule(firewall side) on the end.  Basically flipped the 510 cable 180 and i think I am sat.  
 

This is what it looks like now (excuse the zip ties as I didn’t want to clamp down on the cable until I was sure it was right).  
 

The butterflies open like 98% of the way and not sure how to get them fully open as I am out of cable and really don’t want to fuck this up and have to start over. 

 

 

 

Edited February 6, 2021 by d.p

[d.p]

I think part of the lack of travel was from the lokar cable uses a nut on the inside of the firewall. My firewall is totally caved in right where the cable passes through into the cab.  My ebrake mount is pushed inwards and the sheet metal is kind folded down towards the gas pedal.  Its like someone dropped an anvil there or swung the engine into it.  Anyways the lokar inside nut seem to have shortened the total distance the pedal could travel and it caused the. pedal to move and click but YMMV.  
 

So if you have a 521 and need a throttle cable to run dual Mikuni's then you can make one using a 510 and 521 throttle cable.  You basically swap one end of the 521 cable onto the 510 cable and flip it 180.  The reason is the 521 firewall side ferrule has a stop (and threads through the fw) at the back of it whereas the 510 has a stop at the front of the ferrule.  

 

Quote

 

1. Get a 510 cable, cut the end off that goes to the carb right above the ferrule and slide the nut off.   Throw the nut and ferrule away cause they don’t fit/work on a 521.    Keep the 510 inner cable as you will reuse it.  

2. Cut the end of the 521 cable that goes to the firewall , slide the nut off and keep the ferrule. 

3. Take the 521 ferrule and nut and slide them on the end of the 510 cable that you cut.  The ferrule can be tough to slide on but I cleaned up the inside and used a little bit of oil and jammed the sheath in there.  Make sure to put the nut on BEFORE the ferrule with the threads facing the end you cut. 

4. Attach the sheath to the firewall. and slide the 510 inner cable from inside the cab through the pedal and the firewall and bob's your uncle.   

5. You will need something to attach to the throttle linkage...  I had the Mikuni cable end/stop but I tried to use the lokar end piece (https://www.amazon.com/Lokar-S-1034-Carburetor-End-Assembly/dp/B001Q4XCS6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=lokar+cable&qid=1612583105&sr=8-5) but the 510 inner cable was too thick.

 

  

*If you fuck up the inner cable you can always use one of these (just cut one end off) but you need to use the 510 sheath.   I first used this but cut it too short so I went back to the 510 inner cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EP65AS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I would have preferred the thinner cable because I could then run the Mikuni or Lokar end.  

 

From L to R:

521 510 Lokar

 

 

Edited February 6, 2021 by d.p

[datzenmike]

The denting of the firewall would only shorten the length of the cable overall so it might not reach the carburetors. It would not shorten the length the cable pulls. That is a function of the pedal lever. Take a look an you'll see it's like a teeter totter. If the fulcrum point is moved down towards the pedal pad it increases the distance the cable is pulled. For now I wouldn't mess with that. However the carburetor end can be adjusted. If you are not getting enough opening of the carburetor move the cable connection down lower on the lever.

 

Set the carburetor to full open and adjust the cable to it. When the carburetor closes the pedal will follow and lift up from the floor.

 

 

The carburetor end on the Hitachi carburetor pull end is about a 1" radius and the pedal built to pull this. When I installed my R-1 motorcycle carbs the carburetor pull is only 3/4" radius, so a small amount of pedal made a big opening of the carburetor. The pedal was hardly off the floor at all and had much less distance to travel. Regulating the throttle was kind of jumpy. I couldn't change the carburetor end so I moved the fulcrum point upwards away from the pedal pad about an inch. This increased the pedal travel and evened it out. 

[Charlie69]

The 521 throttle pedal can be bent to get more cable movement.  Denting the firewall is a hack move.

[d.p]

2 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Denting the firewall is a hack move.

Say what?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

2 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

The 521 throttle pedal can be bent to get more cable movement.  Denting the firewall is a hack move.

Right, bend the throttle pedal arm towards you. Easy peasy.

[d.p]

Is this the right exhaust gasket for my head? All the holes in the gasket are round but two exhaust port are square.  

[datzenmike]

The gasket is for a W58 head that had 4 round exhaust ports. Yours has 4 square ports. It will work but the gasket does slightly interfere with the corners. Most specially the middle two. Use tin snips to trim it if concerned.

[d.p]

Ahh shit I got a couple new felpro intake gaskets from my l16 that are right so I’ll just use one of those.  
 

Making a lot of progress but found out my exhaust from the collector back doesn’t mate up.  It hits on the larger trans so not sure what I am going to do about that.  And I hate how nasty my alternator looks.  
 

also there two hoses on the drivers side fender that I don’t know what to do with?  I think one is the gas evap?
 

 

[d.p]

2 lone hoses...

[d.p]

L16 gasket:

 

 

[mainer311]

I think those cardboard gaskets are shit. Get a Remflex RF15-001.

 

Those two hoses are both part of the evap shit. Just get rid of them.

[datzenmike]

 

This is the flow guide valve. You have L20B so this isn't going to work. You could install a charcoal canister and connect the fuel tank vent and get that working, otherwise you can remove it.

 

 

 

 This is a universal gasket for L16/ L18 and L20B through '77.

 

 

[john510]

32 minutes ago, d.p said:

L16 gasket:

 

 

Now get a can of that copper spray and coat that gasket.I used that same gasket with the spray and haven't had a problem going on six years now.

[datzenmike]

Nothing wrong with FellPro gaskets. Failure is from improper tightening or stud failure (stripped) or improperly installed cone washers on the bolts shared between exhaust and the intake (specially is a header!) or bad mating surfaces. (not cleaned of residual gasket) There are a lot of reasons but the gasket isn't one of them.

 

There's never enough time to do it right but always time to do it over.

[Charlie69]

6 hours ago, d.p said:

Say what?

I did not studder!

[mainer311]

1 hour ago, Charlie69 said:

I did not studder!

Stutter

[d.p]

Duck it then I’ll just use what I got as it’s not charcoal and 

3 hours ago, john510 said:

Now get a can of that copper spray and coat that gasket.I used that same gasket with the spray and haven't had a problem going on six years now.

both sides??