My 1971 521

[mainer311]

Are you running a matchbox dizzy? Use the mount on the far right, but the bolt hole faces the radiator, so flip it 180 degrees. If I remember right, I had to flip the thin plate over as well.

Edited February 26, 2021 by mainer311

[d.p]

Just now, mainer311 said:

Are you running a matchbox dizzy? Use the mount on the far right, but the bolt hole faces the radiator.

yeah.  Bolt hole that you use to adjust the timing (A/R) faces forward?  

[d.p]

Like this??

 

 

[mainer311]

Sorry, I was wrong. Mine is how you originally said. I did have to widen the slots in the plate to allow for a little more adjustment. I basically rigged mine together to get the matchbox away from the exhaust a little bit, and still have the timing line up.

 

Edited February 26, 2021 by mainer311

[d.p]

Yeah that’s the way it sits with that mount.   I think I read you can turn the el dizzy 180 so that the electronics face the radiator vs the exhaust manifold.  You just need to reverse the firing 4231 or whatever the opposite of the normal firing order. 
 

@datzenmike should know?? 

[mainer311]

Firing order is always the same counterclockwise 1-3-4-2 and you’ll have to remove the spark plug wires and re-plug them because it’ll turn the cap.

Edited February 27, 2021 by mainer311

[Charlie69]

The 1980 720 L20B had the distributor with the matchbox forward.

[d.p]

9 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

The 1980 720 L20B had the distributor with the matchbox forward.

I assume the timing plate was forward as well then?

[Charlie69]

Yes, the 79 620 was the same.  78 620 had electronic ignition but had a box on the passenger kick panel instead of a matchbox.

Edited February 27, 2021 by Charlie69

[d.p]

Ahh ok. This is the thread I was talking about where Hainz mentions a way to do it.  

 

[d.p]

This is regulator is clicking when I connect the neg battery terminal.  What is it and do I need it? Seems to be 
 

 

 

Also when I turn the key my reverse lights come on all the time regardless if I am R or not. 
 

I pulled the reverse switch out of the trans and they stayed on.  I did buy a 280zx reverse switch but it broke so I just swapped it from my 4 speed but no idea if they are interchangeable? Or if this regulator has something to do with the reverse lights???

Edited February 27, 2021 by d.p

[thisismatt]

Horn relay lol

 

Disconnect the S lead, sounds like it's shorted to ground

[d.p]

5 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Horn relay lol

 

Disconnect the S lead, sounds like it's shorted to ground

well my horns are disconnected and which one is the S lead? Just plugged them back in and they don’t work.  Interesting. 

Edited February 27, 2021 by d.p

[d.p]

Well something not right with the horns. I reconnected them and one slipped down and touched the steering column and started sparking. So I mounted them back and and when I reconnected the S wire they just honk constantly.  
 

No idea what the fuck I did to cause this. Lol
 

 

Edited February 27, 2021 by d.p

[thisismatt]

It's literally marked on the relay, H (horns) B (battery) S (steering wheel switch) 😅

[thisismatt]

The wire going to the horn button is grounded by the button. I don't remember if you have the stock wheel, but if so it's a stupid design and has rubber insulator/bumpers that break down and horn starts going off all the time.

[d.p]

3 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

The wire going to the horn button is grounded by the button. I don't remember if you have the stock wheel, but if so it's a stupid design and has rubber insulator/bumpers that break down and horn starts going off all the time.

my dude the terminal is so old and faded I didn’t even notice it. I do now though.   

I have the stock wheel but it was working before I did all of this so I figured I messed it up somehow.  I have pretty much touched everything forward of the diff on this POS.  Or I put it back together wrong but could just be a coincidence as well. 
 

I was going to buy a Nardi wheel but really trying to not spend money on this fucker until I know it will run and drive.  
 

Any thought to why my reverse lights are on all the time?  I connected it to the Red/black wires.   

[d.p]

Looks right to me but I have a terrible memory so who knows.  

[d.p]

Hornhub. 

[thisismatt]

Ok, there were two different make steering wheels and it looks like you have the odd one that I've never messed with, so I can't be much help unless you want to start checking things with a meter.

 

Are reverse lights on even with key off? If they are off I would assume the switch is the issue...

[d.p]

Ok.

 

Reverse lights come on with the key, key off then they don't come on.  I think it was you who said it was the r/b wires for the reverse lights right? 

[thisismatt]

Possibly, as those are the correct colored wires for the reverse lamps in the 521 wiring.  But what switch did you hook them up to?

[thisismatt]

Ok, so I believe the stock 4sp reverse switch is opposite from the 5sp switch.  5sp switch being normally open (NO), and the 4sp switch being normally closed (NC).  I bet if you shift into reverse the lights will go off.  Super helpful.

[d.p]

 

1 minute ago, thisismatt said:

Possibly, as those are the correct colored wires for the reverse lamps in the 521 wiring.  But what switch did you hook them up to?

 

1 minute ago, thisismatt said:

Ok, so I believe the stock 4sp reverse switch is opposite from the 5sp switch.  5sp switch being normally open (NO), and the 4sp switch being normally closed (NC).  I bet if you shift into reverse the lights will go off.  Super helpful.

 

I had a new one for a 280zx (what my trans is out of) but the contacts broke off so I grabbed the one off my 4 speed which I thought was the reverse switch.  There are still 2 switches in my 4 speed trans but no idea what they are for.  First thing I tried was putting in R and it made no difference and from the 521 wiring diagram it looks like r/b are the reverse light wires.  

[thisismatt]

Well I wouldn't be surprised if it's the wrong switch and possibly the plunger is the wrong length for proper engagement?  Honestly I haven't messed with them so Mike will probably have to chime in.  I would start by unplugging the switch and putting my meter on it in diode mode for the audible continuity beeper and cycle the switch to make sure it's turning off in one of the positions.