My 1971 521

[mainer311]

Okay, that doesn’t sound good. That means that the clutch is adjusted too tight, and there’s not enough free-play, but it’s extremely hard to tell via the internet.

 

If the clutch is adjusted too tight, you don’t want it to slip even when your foot is off the clutch.

[d.p]

Sure but too tight means move the ball back? Or adjust it at the pedal?   I never really understood how it all works.  But I struggled with it since I installed the five speed but obviously never drove it until today. 

[mainer311]

The ball would get threaded towards the slave cylinder. Probably wouldn’t take much. 1-2 turns, maybe?

[d.p]

1 minute ago, mainer311 said:

The ball would get threaded towards the slave cylinder. Probably wouldn’t take much. 1-2 turns, maybe?

ok I’ll move the nut forward a little bit and see what it does.  

[mainer311]

There are some real clowns over there on "Church of L series." Take everything there with a grain of salt.

 

Like the guy who said I should list my location so that I can see if there is anyone local to borrow some allen wrenches and NPT tap.

[datzenmike]

3 hours ago, d.p said:

 

 

 I put the timing light on it but only checked for 12 at idle.   Not sure what to shoot for at idle and above 3k with my setup.  
 

 

12⁰ at 650-750. Initial advance.

 

As it revs up say above 800-900 RPM a mechanical advance in the distributor begins, so make sure the idle is low enough. Full advance should be 'all in' by 3,000. L series like around 32⁰. (this is 12⁰ initial plus 20⁰ centrifugal or mechanical) As this is done without any load, the vacuum advance will interfere so unplug the vacuum advance line if you have one.

 

 

2 hours ago, d.p said:

So I have to barely touch it to engage/disengage when changing gears.  
 

not sure which is which I always get them confused.  

 

Sounds like you're saying the pedal is only pushed down an inch or two to work the clutch???

 

Make sure you can wiggle the slave push rod in the clutch arm. Just a tiny little bit of play assures that the arm is not pushing against the pressure plate diaphragm fingers.

[datzenmike]

30 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

There are some real clowns over there on "Church of L series." Take everything there with a grain of salt.

 

Like the guy who said I should list my location so that I can see if there is anyone local to borrow some allen wrenches and NPT tap.

 

 

W in TF is the church of L series????? Do you have to handle snakes if you join?

 

[mainer311]

15 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

W in TF is the church of L series????? Do you have to handle snakes if you join?

 

It's a Facebook page with a handful of smart people, and a lot of dumbasses. It's kind of like Ratsun.

[thisismatt]

° mike, °, it's not an exponent 😅 ³²¹

[thisismatt]

2 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

 

It's a Facebook page with a handful of smart people, and a lot of dumbasses. It's kind of like Ratsun.

As bad as hybridz?

[d.p]

Mainer is right.
 

Some smart guys and some not so smart.  Usually take what they say with a grain of salt but they do seem to know the most about side drafts.  “Moon man” seems to be one of the latter lol. 
 

and @datzenmike yes push it an inch or two to work it. Spooked me the first time I drove it because it lurched forward so quick after I let off it.  I then realized I had to push it very little to get it engaged or disengaged??   
 

no vacuum advance whatsoever but the PO had a hose on the canister but I don’t remember where it was connected to.  I read that you don’t need it with dual side drafts though. 

Edited March 8, 2021 by d.p

[d.p]

10 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

As bad as hybridz?

join it and find out.  

[d.p]

@thisismatt I invited you to the group on FB and I doubt Mike is on there but if you are let me know and I will invite you too. 

[mainer311]

20 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

As bad as hybridz?

 

🤷‍♂️

[datzenmike]

9 minutes ago, d.p said:

join it and find out.  

 

 

Been trollin' there for years as "@we'reallgoingtoL". Who'd you think suggested to someone that you list your location?

[datzenmike]

38 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

° mike, °, it's not an exponent 😅 ³²¹

 

[d.p]

Well been reading "Mikuni PHH Carburetor service manual" which has taught me a lot.  http://www.tuning4performance.com/documents/Mikuni -44-PHH-SM.pdf I think the only guy in this 521 section running these is @banzai510(hainz) right?  Going to get a synchrometer and check the jetting and timing as well.  Getting warmer here so the time is right to get this fucker running.  

 

Also while I wait to figure these carbs out my oil pressure gauge jumps around but never really gets above 30psi at idle.  I think it was right around 50 when first turned it over , at least my son said it was so I can't be sure.  But wondering what I should be seeing and what could cause it to jump?  bad ground? The oil pressure dummy light is off on the dash but it does come on when I start it so I know its working and I have pressure.   

 

I also noticed that when I start the truck the alt charging light is on but if I give is some throttle it goes out.  Wires are tight so not sure why it does that but I did swap to an internally regulated 1980 200SX alternator and jumped the wires.  

[Crashtd420]

50 minutes ago, d.p said:

Well been reading "Mikuni PHH Carburetor service manual" which has taught me a lot.  http://www.tuning4performance.com/documents/Mikuni -44-PHH-SM.pdf I think the only guy in this 521 section running these is @banzai510(hainz) right?  Going to get a synchrometer and check the jetting and timing as well.  Getting warmer here so the time is right to get this fucker running.  

 

Also while I wait to figure these carbs out my oil pressure gauge jumps around but never really gets above 30psi at idle.  I think it was right around 50 when first turned it over , at least my son said it was so I can't be sure.  But wondering what I should be seeing and what could cause it to jump?  bad ground? The oil pressure dummy light is off on the dash but it does come on when I start it so I know its working and I have pressure.   

 

I also noticed that when I start the truck the alt charging light is on but if I give is some throttle it goes out.  Wires are tight so not sure why it does that but I did swap to an internally regulated 1980 200SX alternator and jumped the wires.  

 

Not sure what to say on the altenator,  after you give it some throttle does it stay out?

 

As far as the oil pressure that sounds kind of normal,  once the oil gets hot it does give lower readings at idle.... 30 should be fine at idle....

 

And atleast your starting at the right spot on the carburetor... synchronizing should be done first, after that start with the idle and make small changes, then move on to the main circuit... no idea how the mikunis are setup but with the weber changing the idle circuit affects the main... 

Do you plan on reading the plugs to tune or are you investing in an air fuel gauge?

Edited March 8, 2021 by Crashtd420

[d.p]

Yeah it stays out once I give it some gas.  Odd almost like giving it gas knocks something loose or tight?  Like engine vibration causes the light to go out or it to start charging?  Good to know about the oil pressure gauge as well. 

 

Dunno on the AF guauge as I really wasn't trying to make this into some kind of high performance truck but I think I might have ended up there lol.  I really just wanted a five speed and some more pep but being this is the only L20B Iocal to me (and the price) in all the years of owning this truck I guess it choose me. 

 

 

[d.p]

Video if anyone cares:  

 

 

 

Edited March 8, 2021 by d.p

[Crashtd420]

49 minutes ago, d.p said:

Yeah it stays out once I give it some gas.  Odd almost like giving it gas knocks something loose or tight?  Like engine vibration causes the light to go out or it to start charging?  Good to know about the oil pressure gauge as well. 

 

Dunno on the AF guauge as I really wasn't trying to make this into some kind of high performance truck but I think I might have ended up there lol.  I really just wanted a five speed and some more pep but being this is the only L20B Iocal to me (and the price) in all the years of owning this truck I guess it choose me. 

 

 

The plug method will get you in the ballpark,  but If you really wanna tune the carburetor correctly the air/fuel gauge is about the only way to do it properly on your own....

You could always just do a temporary installation,  when your done pull the o2 sensor and plug the hole.... 

 

The alternator is still confusing,  maybe check belt tension..... 

Are you sure its wired properly?

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

If belt is tight as mentioned it means the alternator brushes are wearing out and when you speed it up it will go out.

Since we are on page 128 Im not going back to look what you got in there if it s a external or internal volt reg in your Vatozone alternator.

Like I said use that cig lighter volt meter you got years ago and monitor  the voltage and load it down with lights ect and that will tell if the brushes are wearing out as the volts will drop down pretty fast even above idle.

 

as for the carbs be honest thats what 44s sound like. almost over carbed sounding. Mine sounded like this.

I would sync it up best you can  and dont fuck with anything elese for right now.  then look at the plugs and carry a few spares around and a socket in case one fouls out but mine  ran rich and I didnt give a fuck as it seem ok and never failed me.

With the low gear ratio of the 521 Im thinking once above 1500rpm it should really wake up.

my 510 with mikuni 40 once started it almost seem like Fuel injected as it dont have hardly any pops to the carbs.

 

I really cant believe you go this going. My Rich BMW friend(ok Im over doing it) can get a simple car running.

Im so PROUD!!!!  sounds GREAT also

[d.p]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

If belt is tight as mentioned it means the alternator brushes are wearing out and when you speed it up it will go out.

Since we are on page 128 Im not going back to look what you got in there if it s a external or internal volt reg in your Vatozone alternator.

Like I said use that cig lighter volt meter you got years ago and monitor  the voltage and load it down with lights ect and that will tell if the brushes are wearing out as the volts will drop down pretty fast even above idle.

 

as for the carbs be honest thats what 44s sound like. almost over carbed sounding. Mine sounded like this.

I would sync it up best you can  and dont fuck with anything elese for right now.  then look at the plugs and carry a few spares around and a socket in case one fouls out but mine  ran rich and I didnt give a fuck as it seem ok and never failed me.

With the low gear ratio of the 521 Im thinking once above 1500rpm it should really wake up.

my 510 with mikuni 40 once started it almost seem like Fuel injected as it dont have hardly any pops to the carbs.

 

I really cant believe you go this going. My Rich BMW friend(ok Im over doing it) can get a simple car running.

Im so PROUD!!!!  sounds GREAT also

 

Belt is tight and brand new alternator so I guess it could be a dud?  Idk but it seems to charge once I gas it.  I got a voltage meter as well and it shows 14-12 volts depending on whether its running or not.  All I have done is adjust the idle stop screws on the carbs and nothing else.  I had originally put BR5ES plugs in cause that is all that I had and when I swapped them out today #2-4 were black and #1 was tannish/brown.  When I drove it around yesterday as soon as I got above 2K it stumbled pretty bad, even going up hill any kind load it seemed to struggle.  Obviously more work involved to get this thing running right so I will put in the time and if it doesn't work maybe just go back to the 32/36.  One thing is the dual carbs are LOUD, driving it around yesterday with no hood people were giving me the stink eye just around the block.   

 

Lol thanks I guess.  Still have some work to do so you can congratulate me when its running and driving without issue.  

[d.p]

2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

The plug method will get you in the ballpark,  but If you really wanna tune the carburetor correctly the air/fuel gauge is about the only way to do it properly on your own....

You could always just do a temporary installation,  when your done pull the o2 sensor and plug the hole.... 

 

The alternator is still confusing,  maybe check belt tension..... 

Are you sure its wired properly?

 

 

Yeah working with Taka/Kyusha House right now to get the carbs sorted.  I still need to get the exhaust fixed and don't want to put/have a bung installed only to have to do it again if and when I get a bigger exhaust (2').   Regarding the alternator pretty sure..but you tell me?  I think I posted a picture of the jumper wires on here but deleted it off my phone, otherwise I would post that as well.  

 

Edited March 8, 2021 by d.p

[d.p]

Oh and I just realized the PO did have the vacuum advance hooked up, but not sure as to why.