mainer311 Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 18 minutes ago, d.p said: And I can install the weber + intake no problem, but that would mean I would I need a water line to the intake/carbs? If so I would need to swap the lower water inlet or t-stat housing to get that. But I would prefer not do that and get to the point the carbs are right and move on from there. No, just block the port off on the intake manifold. I don't think swapping back to the DGV is necessary. All this talk about surging makes me wonder if your fuel pump is putting out enough fuel to keep the bowls full. Have you verified that it's pumping decently? Keep in mind that the DGV had one bowl. Now you have to keep 2 filled. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) yeah just check it out first as for the water line ect I forgot if your head was plugged or not. if head dont have water hole you dont need to do nothing ,Dont run no water line as for the valves I just rotate the motor till a cam lobe is pointing up and just wiggle it to make sure its not tight then move to the next one. Getting the exact .008 or what really isnt needed . If rocker arm is loose you know the valve is closed unless a valve seat is loose or something major Edited March 10, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 1 minute ago, mainer311 said: No, just block the port off on the intake manifold. I don't think swapping back to the DGV is necessary. All this talk about surging makes me wonder if your fuel pump is putting out enough fuel to keep the bowls full. Have you verified that it's pumping decently? Keep in mind that the DGV had one bowl. Now you have to keep 2 filled. yeah no interest in swapping the Mikunis for the weber at this point. Dudes on the church of L mentioned it may be fuel related but I don't know how to test it. Other than putting an electric pump on what are my options? I have a handful of mechanical pumps and Taka suggested running an electric one regardless. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) check the jet block on top of carb. make sure they screwed in I run a manual fuel pump. on my car with 40s. So dont g spending on shit and hook up you dont need. do all the cks mentioned and this shouldnt take more than a half hour rocker arms carb jet blocks how about the ignition? B goes to pos C goes to minus coil, feel coil if gets HOT.(photo be nice on this) Edited March 10, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 If you have an electric put it on. This will eliminate the pump at least. It does not eliminate a carburetor running out of gas because the screen is clogged or float level too low. You mentioned the #1 plug was clean.... maybe this carburetor is the one running out of gas? Sorting out an engine is a process. Eliminate what you can and try not to assume anything. Running #3 hole will retard the cam about 3-4 degrees from the stock position. I'm saying the valve events will be moved. Intake and exhaust openings will be sooner and closings will later. This amount won't be what you describe but it does subtly add upper RPM power and take away slightly from the low speed torque. When you get this all sorted out, you should try the #2 and maybe even the #1 position and see if this gives better running where ever it is you like to drive it. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 5 NGKs when I switched them for the 6s. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Cool and dizzy wiring. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 3 plugs are rich. One looks like chocolate milk and is very close to being correct. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Isnt the +power a white wire with a blk stripe that was plugged into the Ballast resistor??? I see you have a blk wire with white stripe But have to look at mine when I get home. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Yeah that’s what I was saying. So what would make 3/4 rich? Just got back from driving it around the block like 5 times and it goes just not very well between 2-3k. Once I get above 3k it gets better but not great. And it’s so loud (no hood) that I have hard time discerning between the carbs and an exhaust leak. Seems my shade tree exhaust fix might not have worked all that well. have a leaky valve cover too which is weird. Brand new gasket but just doesn’t want to seal up. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 1 minute ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Isnt the +power a white wire with a blk stripe that was plugged into the Ballast resistor??? I see you have a blk wire with white stripe But have to look at mine when I get home. I don’t know but that wire is going to the pos side of the coil and it doesn’t run with it disconnected. oil pressure is good as well but truck seems to run hotter. Left of the middle line but really maybe not driving it long enough to get it to cool? 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Goddamn I want nothing more than to rip around in this mfer. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Damn that truck looks clean! I need one more good rain up here to wash the salt off before I rip mine around... Sounds like your getting close! 1 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) When adjusting the lash do the lock nuts butt up against the adjuster nuts or do they sit tight at the bottom? Been awhile and second guessing myself on all of this. Edited March 10, 2021 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Forget I even asked. They lock at the bottom. Got them all adjusted but it’s a bitch getting a wrench on the frank bolt now with the koyo rad. Takes forever to turn the motor. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Checked wiring, checked and adjusted lash, checked plugs and made sure all the jets were tight. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) Alright so I said fuck it just went and ripped around the neighborhood in it. Just sent it so to speak and it moves above 3K and was easily going 60 at 3k in fourth but there just seems to be a dead spot between 1500-2000 RPMs give or take in second and third If I get north of 2500 it drives smooth and no hesitation but something isn't right down low in 2nd and 3rd. Its just so loud around those RPMs to so its hard to tell what its doing. Maybe I will just drive it to get the exhaust fixed so I don't have to listen to it anymore. Edited March 10, 2021 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Change pilots to 50 or 55 and open up the pilot screws 2 turns out. I think you're running rich down low. Look at the spark plugs, you can't even see the white porcelain anymore. Also, you really need to do all of this in the correct order. The carbs need to be synced for airflow, and the idles all set properly. Throwing things at it is just going to leave you chasing your own tail. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Are 2 and 3 joined where it says MIKUNI ??? If 3/4 are running too rich for some unknown reason, might not #2 suck some of the richness in through the balance tube??? #1 would be separate. Just an observation. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Yeah at this point not going to mess with it until I get the meter like Mainer says. Just happy to know it drives and moves under its own power. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: Are 2 and 3 joined where it says MIKUNI ??? If 3/4 are running too rich for some unknown reason, might not #2 suck some of the richness in through the balance tube??? #1 would be separate. Just an observation. could very well be. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) Also I noticed a strong sweet smell or tangy smell but it’s hard to describe. But when I took the valve cover off it was super strong. And I Can smell it while driving around but I have hole in the floor and I just assumed it was coming from the exhaust. Could I be burning coolant somehow? I don’t notice any white smoke out of the exhaust either. Edited March 10, 2021 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 11, 2021 Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 you sure your choke plates are OFF. my 44s if the choke wire wasnt attached the choke would come on one of the carbs. sidedraft carbs are LOUD/ I dont know what you expect. quiet is the stock carb on a L16 with the stock airfilter. THIS IS queit!!!! as for balance tube?? You sure it has a balance tube. I thought that in the middle was a solid casting. there is no balance tube 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 30 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: you sure your choke plates are OFF. my 44s if the choke wire wasnt attached the choke would come on one of the carbs. sidedraft carbs are LOUD/ I dont know what you expect. quiet is the stock carb on a L16 with the stock airfilter. THIS IS queit!!!! as for balance tube?? You sure it has a balance tube. I thought that in the middle was a solid casting. there is no balance tube Got a pic of what you are referring to? This it? I have no choke wire connected and the Mikuni manual mentions 'starter' vs 'choke.' And I had no idea what to expect because I have never had side drafts and never heard them in person. I will be fine with it once its sorted, the exhaust is fixed and the hood is back on. More so just observations as I progress through all of this. Balance tube? Its a 'jet block' according to the Mikuni service manual. 1 Quote Link to comment
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