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My 1971 521


d.p

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30 minutes ago, d.p said:

Crash aren’t you using a 200sx alt? If so what brand? Not having much luck with AC Delco. 

 

I have a 60 amp Remy, which started life as a Hitachi before it was remanned. RockAuto P/N 14118. It's externally regulated though. 

 

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

The stock 521 is around 34 amps and is small diameter to fit near rad hose and idler arm between block and frame. Car alternators of 50/60 amp are difficult to fit in that space.

 

Who cares? We've all gotten the 60 ampers to fit. That's not his problem. 

Edited by mainer311
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16 minutes ago, d.p said:

Crash aren’t you using a 200sx alt? If so what brand? Not having much luck with AC Delco. 

I was... I can check the brand when I get home.... I got it from oriellys,  so whatever they sell....

I'm currently running a 100amp from a maxima I think, from oriellys too....

 

I like seeing 14.4 volts which I usually get when I first start the truck regardless of what I turn on but while driving mine eventually runs around 13...

I haven't had the best of luck either but I have a feeling it has something to do with my battery being all the way in the back.... 

I maintain a charge so I haven't cared to get back into the issue yet.... 

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Yeah the one I have now works but just squeals like a pig and is totally embarrassing driving around.  If I take it out and spin the pulley by hand I can hear it whine so I know its the alt and not the belt.  I wonder if I took it the alternator shop if they could fix it?  I returned the one that didn't charge (but didn't whine) and really not trying to give RockAuto anymore of my money if I don't have to.  

 

Is that 100AMP from a maxima plug and play? 

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9 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

 

I have a 60 amp Remy, which started life as a Hitachi before it was remanned. RockAuto P/N 14118. It's externally regulated though. 

 

 

Who cares? We've all gotten the 60 ampers to fit. That's not his problem. 

 

This one?  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37404&jsn=3  If so dang thats cheap!  And I still have my external VR so I could always throw it back on.  

 

And let @datzenmike rant, he does have a wealth of good knowledge and less than useful opinions.  Lol

Edited by d.p
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1 minute ago, d.p said:

 

This one?  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37404&jsn=3  If so dang thats cheap!  And I still have my external VR so I could always throw it back on.  

 

And let @datzenmike rant, he does have a wealth of good knowledge and less than useful opinions.  Lol

 

"a wealth of good knowledge and less than useful opinions" - boy, if that doesn't sum this place up, than I don't know what does.

 

That's the one.

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25 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

This one?  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37404&jsn=3  If so dang thats cheap!  And I still have my external VR so I could always throw it back on.  

 

I think they sell a Remy 60amp with the internal regulator... now that I think about it I think I got mine from rockauto .... it's been a while....

 

Remy 14303...

Edited by Crashtd420
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Said it was a poor fit on a truck. Has to hug the block more and usually a shorter belt. Closer to the block means less belt around the pulley and squeal from slipping not to mention the increased drag when charging a low battery. If you convert a higher amperage alternator to V belt even more slippage.

 

There is no opinion here. I've put a 50/60 amp Z car alternator in my 620. Changed the rad inlet to a Z car one that is more swept back and moves the hose more out of the way. Changed the alternator 3 bolt mount to one from a 720 which is slightly higher than the L series. To clear the idler arm with any chance of a tight adjustment had to use a shorter belt. To make it work the belt had to go over the pulley first then onto the block mount. Later I fitted a Dodge K car 90 amp and it would squeal if charging a low battery. On my 710s where fitment isn't a real problem I had an S13 KA 80? amp and it would squeal sometimes on start up. My 710 goon has a 100 amp Altima alternator. Both had to be converted to V belt and both have a different style plastic plug in the back after '86.

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16 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

You probably have spent as much on alternators as Mr Tanker did on his 1 high dollar alternator.  At least you have a selection of alternators to show for your money.  LOL


image.gif.6ea99492e6b46942998fb5377f116ab5.gif
 

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3rd times a charm for a working alternator from Rock auto and the truck is running well. Still not snappy like I expected but not sure what I was expecting was warranted.  Meaning maybe what I have is expected. A 4 banger NA engine.  
 

anyone who has driven a cam/bored/dual side drafted L20b what is your take on it?  Does the throttle snap and climb the Reba quickly? 

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5 hours ago, d.p said:


 

anyone who has driven a cam/bored/dual side drafted L20b what is your take on it?  Does the throttle snap and climb the Reba quickly? 

That's like asking if chicken nuggets are yummy. No two nuggets are made the same.

 

Tuning. It takes time and patience. If you don't have those, it will always be just another rat trap. With proper tuning, your L20B with duals and a cam could be tire smoking fun.

 

Learn the methods and tune it to your desire. Once you understand the theory and how to apply it, it will be supremely rewarding. Only then will you have something that's not frustrating to own.

 

Sounds like a Mr Miyagi quote...

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Well took the truck for a long drive today (75 miles or so) and it fine for the most part.  But towards the end it started to miss a little bit and not sure why, maybe heat?  Hood is off but the truck runs hotter than my L16 ever did and not sure if that is expected or not.   It doesn't seem to miss when I first start driving it or for short periods of time, just anything prolonged it seems to start to struggle up top and at idle.  

 

For instance it will idle right around 800 for the first 30 minutes or so but then it starts to hunt and fluctuate and make like a lopey sound because the idle is too low.  I didn't pull the plugs but I am assuming #2 is fouled again because this is what it did last time on a long drive, got tired on the way back and #2 was completely black.  

 

What could cause that?  

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5 minutes ago, d.p said:

Well took the truck for a long drive today (75 miles or so) and it fine for the most part.  But towards the end it started to miss a little bit and not sure why, maybe heat?  Hood is off but the truck runs hotter than my L16 ever did and not sure if that is expected or not.   It doesn't seem to miss when I first start driving it or for short periods of time, just anything prolonged it seems to start to struggle up top and at idle.  

 

For instance it will idle right around 800 for the first 30 minutes or so but then it starts to hunt and fluctuate and make like a lopey sound because the idle is too low.  I didn't pull the plugs but I am assuming #2 is fouled again because this is what it did last time on a long drive, got tired on the way back and #2 was completely black.  

 

What could cause that?  

Your running rich.... why on just the one,  not sure.... it comes down to tuning.... 

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I adjusted #2 a couple days ago by turning it in but I had no alternator so I didn't drive it until today.  I also put a new plug in #2 so if its fouled again then safe to assume that one is still too rich?

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I adjusted #2 but need to check the plug and no I haven't run a compression test yet but I will soon.  Is the best way to do that with the coil disconnected and the throttle wide open?  Then just turn it over a couple times with the key?  Should be hot as well?

 

I have a screw in compression testet.

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