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My 1971 521


d.p

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Be honest I like Germany. And its Made in Germany Goods

Nice clean, calm country. moslty friendly

nice roads,

Castles, the big River, beer and wine fests

 

Dislike

COLD weather,

Taxes on everything

Rules and regulations on everything

small towns dead after 5pm

They are ashamed to say were in the military. Dont spend on their own defense.

Tax american goods at high rate or not let it in the country at all.Especially Farm goods

 

 

These are the better of the unisyncs made.

Just put in on till the needle moves to a spot then record it in your head before it cuts the air off the carb

 

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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15 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Supposedly these STE meters won’t cut airflow to the carb. I have a Unisyn that I use on my SU’s (with the vertical tube and float) and those will definitely choke out the engine.

 

Is this what you have?  

 

71L6feyQdGL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

 

 

Edited by d.p
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Got my carbs synched and idle mixture adjusted.  Idling around 800-825 and its running really well, synchrometer shows roughly 5 across all 4 stacks. Truck is a little sluggish down low but expected with my setup but it screams above 4K and is a blast to drive.  Love having a 5th gear but yet to go on the freeway to really enjoy it.  

 

Happy for the most part except for a couple things, 1 - the smell, not sure what it is but its nauseating (even with all the windows open) and leaves me slightly light headed even,  2 - I need to cover the trans hole as it generates a lot of heat and noise; 3 I need to get the exhaust fixed and 4 my stupid reman'd alternator is so fucking loud.  Squeals like a pig and I guess I just need to buy another reman'd one and hope its better because at this point its embarrassing.   It does seem to be charging because at idle its around 12 but driving around it hovers around 14 or so.   Oh and I need to put the hood back on.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

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12 is not charging and why the light is on and goes off when revved up. I still say take it back as not working. Surely they have a return policy????

 

I doubt you have a PCV now so block and the valve cover vent are spewing also.

 

Did you paint the exhaust manifold?

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Its 14 under load and the light is off so that would tell me it’s charging no? Just not charging at idle right after starting it.  
 

Alt came from Rock auto and their return policy sucks dong.  Can’t even get anyone to contact me to exchange or warranty it. 
 

I had the exhaust manifold powder coated with high heat powder.  But the smell appears to be coming from the block because when I take the valve cover off the smell is very strong.  No idea what is causing it. 
 

 

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Fuck just figured out how to warranty the alt so have a new one on the way.
 

could the smell be coolant in the combustion chamber?  I do see white smoke at idle and a fair amount of condensation out of the tail pipe.  But for coolant to be getting in I must have a bad head gasket or a cracked block or head??  Hard to believe with a basically completely refreshed block and head. 

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I cant remeber if you had water port hole in the head. If those are plugged then water will not suck in thru the intake manifold gasket . so rule that out.

 

Now at the block. where the vent tube is. When running dual carbs most people just open vent this. Means  at idle you put your hand down there youll fill here coem out of the tube. Then when you rev up the motor it will start sucking air in.  At idle is when the crank case over pressureize and lets the air out. If its real stinky then maybe have a bad sign or issue. Personally I would drive this around awhile till things burn off. Paint oils ect.....  3 days should be enough.

 

make sure gas is not dripping soemwhere esp on a heated exhaust manifold I had a weber DGV the accle pump diaprhame had a hole and would squirt gas and drip doown on the exhaust.

Exhaust I always ck the gasket at the Y pipe when I intially start up when the cast iron manidold is still cold and I can feel the hot exhaust leak if the gasket is bad. Cab do this with header or and weld joint if you think a leak

 

anytime you have really bad gas smell issues att idle and loos of power. al  ways start by making sure the jet blocks are secure in the carbs. go thru the top cover. and choke plate is OFF.

 

The alternator? now if it squells that would concern me also. It seems to work but maybe the belt went bad caused it slipped and made the inner side with a gl;aze and not it cant grab the pulley.  But really a 35 amper ALT at idle barely charges anyways.  I run them as they are small and  I use the L16 mounting bolts and EAR bolts which are smaller. as I have a L16.  14volt above idle means it GOOD.  I would change the belt first and feel if the pully is hard to turn.

 

As for smells??????? running 44s is stinkier than running 40s as its kinda over carburated for a dialy driver but I run them and it was fine.

They are going to be loud and stinkier. I guees stinkier is what your used too. I only had stinky carbs untill I got my Jeep and Toyota pick up and say dam how far we come from stinky carbs.  I got behind a 71 cougar the other day and I said Fuck that car stinks going up a hill.

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16 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

They are going to be loud and stinkier. I guees stinkier is what your used too. I only had stinky carbs untill I got my Jeep and Toyota pick up and say dam how far we come from stinky carbs.  I got behind a 71 cougar the other day and I said Fuck that car stinks going up a hill.


That probably has more to do with catalytic converters vs. straight piped. 
 

Hainz, I thought you loved stinky cougars?

Edited by mainer311
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Its hard to describe the smell but I have never smelled it before if that helps.  Meaning its not gasoline or oil or anything I would have smelt in my lifetime.  I just have no idea what it is.  I can't describe it because I got nothing to compare it to.  No gas leaking either as I made sure of that, all clamps are tight to the carbs, pump and filter.  All the jest are tight and the chokes are OFF.  The only thing I can think of is something burning off or in the block itself but what I don't know.  Will just keep driving it I guess and hope it subsides.  

 

@banzai510(hainz) Here is the head, can you tell me if I had a water port jacket?

 

49487191413_0c5fd6fd42_c.jpg

 

49487191443_fc11b0c4c2_c.jpg

 

As far as the alternator goes it squeals with the RPMs but if I turn the headlights on/off it stops squealing, so what does that tell you?  Its an AC DELCO 60AMP 200SX reman'd alternator, not the stock 35 Hitachi (which I still have).  Belt is brand new Dayco so not sure why it would go bad so quickly?  And the pulley spins freely as far as I can tell.  I ordered a new alt so hopefully it will solve the issue and if it doesn't I guess a new/different belt is in order.   

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Only the U67 came without the water cooled intake ports and those (like the one I have) can be drilled out. You probably have an A87 head there.

 

 

Catalytic converters were mostly used from mid '70s. If anything it's the gas formulation used today.

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Sticky Cougars

Dont ask dont tell!!!!!Is my motto. really when I was in the airforce I seen these Army guys and they went out with anything , So I figured hey dont need to be a slave to fashion  , or pier  pressure these Army guys where like electron flow, path of least resisitance. So I joined them !

 

"Low hanging fruit" also at the bar/night club where ever.  In the long run its just alot cheaper!!!!!!!!!!!

So when you do meet the girl of your DREAMS you dont have that HUNGRY look) (Ill kiss your ass  ) on your forehead that says SUCKER. Then youll control the narrative!!!!

 

Im leaning more the alternator is good. I just suggest of putting a new belt on if it was intially loose it could put a glaze on the belt and cause it not to grab once you figure its loose . But if you put a load I guess it will be harder to turn. Its a 50/50 guess, just a new belt is cheaper to try first.

 

as for the smells if you drove only new fuel injected cars it hard for you to know whats what But its a great sign that you know there is a smell but a 40yr old vehicle just has certain smells but since you had this already and never complain about it before you know your truck more than anybody what it smelled before and after. But a new motor might burn hotter , paint gasing off. little leaks here and there and your new exhaust. But read what I said before maybe you got a exhaust leak ans smell the crank case if real bad

 

Your head has the water ports. if it doesnt leak out the bottom when warm your ok. I like to get them plugged on a sidedraft set up as when one takes the manifold off 99% of the time water will go in the intake and exhaust ports. Now remember this!!! if you take the intake manifold off its best you drain the radiator so this dont happen!!!!!!!!

1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

Hainz, I thought you loved stinky cougars

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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6 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Sticky Cougars

Dont ask dont tell!!!!!Is my motto. really when I was in the airforce I seen these Army guys and they went out with anything , So I figured hey dont need to be a slave to fashion  , or peir  pressure these Army guys where like electron flow, path of least resisitance. So I joined them !

 

"Low hanging fruit" also at the bar/night club where ever.  In the long run its just alot cheaper!!!!!!!!!!!

So when you do meet the girl of your DREAMS you dont have that HUNGRY look) (Ill kiss your ass  ) on your forehead that says SUCKER. Then youll control the narrative!!!!

 

Im leaning more the alternator is good. I just suggest of putting a new belt on if it was intially loose it could put a glaze on the belt and cause it not to grab once you figure its loose . But if you put a load I guess it will be harder to turn. Its a 50/50 guess, just a new belt is cheaper to try first.

 

as for the smells if you drove only new fuel injected cars it hard for you to know whats what But its a great sign that you know there is a smell but a 40yrold vehicle just has certain smells but since you had this already and never complain about it before you know your truck more than anybody wht it smaelled before and after. But a new motor might burn hotter , paint gasing off. little leaks here and there and your new exhaust. But read what I said before maybe you got a exhaust leak ans smell the crank case if real bad

 

Your head has the water ports. if it doesnt leak out the bottom when warm your ok. I like to get them plugged on a sidedraft set up as when one takes the manifold off 99% of the time water will go in the intake and exahaust ports. Now remember this!!! if you take the intake manifold off its best you drain the radiator so this dont happen!!!!!!!!

 

 

There are no ugly women at closing time at  the bar.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

What kind of oil are you using? The Royal Purple that I use in my Cummins has a very distinct smell. Red Line has a distinct smell. If you're smelling it when you remove the valve cover, it might be the oil.

 

Shell rotella and yes it smells when I remove the valve cover.  Used the same oil on my L16 and never noticed it before so who really knows.  Could be my strewn together exhaust too,  

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