My 1971 521

[Racer X 69]

18 minutes ago, d.p said:

Should I be able to turn the alternator pulley by hand?  I thought I read somewhere that I shouldn’t be able to  

With the belt on and properly tensioned it should be very difficult to turn, if not impossible.

[d.p]

9 minutes ago, Racer X 69 said:

With the belt on and properly tensioned it should be very difficult to turn, if not impossible.

 

Ok well I can turn it fairly easily and there is tension on the belt.  What does that mean? Meaning I can spin the pulley while the belt doesn't move. 

Edited April 8, 2021 by d.p

[banzai510(hainz)]

3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Did you test your fuses on your Toyota?

Wire harness Fryed from back alternator to the fender ,all grounds melted from bloc to chassis and thru the connector up close to the coil.  cant believe it ran much as it did.

 

I just bought another one a 91 pick up 22RE for 700 I get it today after work but has alot of miles on it.  But I just need 2more years then I might retire from work then liquidate all this stuff. I want a Jeep Gladiator  but lear of all the electronic on these new cars. Give a guy a jump in the woods and Ill be back in this situation again(if somebody cross the jumper cables)

 

 

DP that  fryed wire what you show is not that bad  long as it makes it to the other side and connectors look good the majority of the strands.  Like I said before I just cant believe all those alternators are that bad.  Yes you can turn them buy hand. just slight resistance from the brushes but that night be a more learned what to feel for . spins too ez one can tell its worn out.Spins forever.

Edited April 8, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

2 hours ago, d.p said:

 

Ok well I can turn it fairly easily and there is tension on the belt.  What does that mean? Meaning I can spin the pulley while the belt doesn't move. 

 

That ain't right. That would indicate the reverse... the belt turns but the pulley does not.

 

 

1/ is the frayed wire loose on the crimp on spade terminal?

 

2/ Is there any indication that these wires were cut previously, somewhere on the harness near the alternator, and put on reversed?? I had to change to a KA alternator with different plug and got them reversed. Ran fine for 3 years like that till I installed a volt gauge that told be it wasn't charging randomly. 

 

[d.p]

I bought a new belt specific to a 200SX and replaced all the fuses in the fuse box.  Time will tell if either of those fixed the problem.  But its the same wiring as my L16, the only difference is I put a new ring terminal on the power wire to the alternator, using a 200sx alternator and made the jumper plug.   That are the only 3 things that changed on the charging side of things.  

[d.p]

Well I replaced all the fuses, charged the battery and tightened the belt by moving the alt as far from the block as I could and now it’s charging. 
 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Looks good to me.

 

I went with a turnbuckle set up on the alternator to keep it tight.

 

put the lights on and run at 1500 rpm and if still above say 13.2 or higher its fine

[d.p]

Did all that. Didn’t drop all that much like down to 14 or so.  At least know I know what to check.  Belt and fuses when it’s for sure happens again.  

Onto another issue and this truck running much hotter than my l16.  I do drive it a lot harder (way more RPMS)  but it still perplexes me why it’s so much hotter. 
 

I may try and throw my thermostat from l16 in it as I don’t remember which one (temp) I bought for the L20b. 
 

I could also throw on my water temp gauge to see what it’s actually at.  
 

 

Edited April 9, 2021 by d.p

[d.p]

And #2 plug still fouling.  Getting nowhere with that.  I assume I would have to take the head off and see what #2 looks like? Or is there something I can do to see if oil is getting past the valve seal? 
 

I did switch the pilot screw from 1 to 2 and it made no difference.  

[d.p]

Still don’t have the hood on and it makes it super convenient working on it. Maybe that fucking douche konig was onto something.  On the freeway today in 5th speed reading  90 (more likely 75) and it was humming along.  Still some weird issue where it seems To stumble after driving it for awhile but it still moves which is cool.  It sounds great too n
 

 

Edited April 9, 2021 by d.p

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, d.p said:

And #2 plug still fouling.  Getting nowhere with that.  I assume I would have to take the head off and see what #2 looks like? Or is there something I can do to see if oil is getting past the valve seal? 
 

I did switch the pilot screw from 1 to 2 and it made no difference.  

 

Put a new seal on. You don't need to take the head off for that. Find the compression stroke, shove 2 feet of nylon rope in the plug hole (tie a big knot on the end so it can't fall inside) hand crank up towards TDC to compress the rope up against the valves and hold them. Compress the valve spring and remove. Replace the seal and put back together in reverse. You don't need a compressor or hoses and fittings or electricity and you can leave for weeks and come back later and finish it. Could do this on the side of the road even.

[Racer X 69]

7 hours ago, d.p said:  Still some weird issue where it seems To stumble after driving it for awhile but it still moves which is cool.  It sounds great too n
 

 

The stumble could be carburetor icing.

[datzenmike]

For that, below about 35/38F in fog or drizzle/freezing rain or melting snow on the ground. Has to be damp. When gas is mixed with air it absorbs heat and can super cool a carburetor to well below freezing. Damp air builds up frost on the insides just like in a freezer.  I don't think this is the case here. It's too consistently on #2 and when this has happened to me the venturi plugs and the engine goes leaner and leaner till you can't drive it. It will idle though (different circuit) and warms fast enough and melts, you drive another km and it does it again. 

[d.p]

10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Put a new seal on. You don't need to take the head off for that. Find the compression stroke, shove 2 feet of nylon rope in the plug hole (tie a big knot on the end so it can't fall inside) hand crank up towards TDC to compress the rope up against the valves and hold them. Compress the valve spring and remove. Replace the seal and put back together in reverse. You don't need a compressor or hoses and fittings or electricity and you can leave for weeks and come back later and finish it. Could do this on the side of the road even.

 

I just watched a video of some dudes doing it on a L28 and they used compressed air to hold the valve up ?  

 

[d.p]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

For that, below about 35/38F in fog or drizzle/freezing rain or melting snow on the ground. Has to be damp. When gas is mixed with air it absorbs heat and can super cool a carburetor to well below freezing. Damp air builds up frost on the insides just like in a freezer.  I don't think this is the case here. It's too consistently on #2 and when this has happened to me the venturi plugs and the engine goes leaner and leaner till you can't drive it. It will idle though (different circuit) and warms fast enough and melts, you drive another km and it does it again. 

 

It was 70F yesterday and the truck was doing it, don't think it has anything to do with cold weather because it hasn't been cold here.  Just something is messed up with #2 environment and I am not sure what.  I even put a hotter plug in #2 and it didn't seem to make a difference.  If it matters the plug is dry carbon fouled, not wet at all when I pull it out.  Could a vacuum leak cause an issue with only 1 cylinder/plug?  

Edited April 9, 2021 by d.p

[banzai510(hainz)]

yes that is another way to do it just hope your wife dont shut the power off!!! using compressed air

 

 

Mike, you really think one of these valve seals are bad when they all brand new?   maybe a insulator is slightly leaking on the intake manifold between carb and manifold. If a Mikunini set up its a O ring I think in the plastic white insulator.  Just me if its not fouling out the plug fuck it it and drive it.

Edited April 9, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[d.p]

26 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

yes that is another way to do it just hope your wife dont shut the power off!!! using compressed air

 

 

Mike, you really think one of these valve seals are bad when they all brand new?   maybe a insulator is slightly leaking on the intake manifold between carb and manifold. If a Mikunini set up its a O ring I think in the plastic white insulator.  Just me if its not fouling out the plug fuck it it and drive it.

 

I wonder what they are using to constantly send air into the cylinder, everything I have requires you to hold a trigger. I will just drive it but would like to get to the bottom of it eventually.    

[banzai510(hainz)]

check the nuts between the carb and the intake insulator. I highly doubt thats the proplem but its all simple checks.

 

most aircompressors when they bleed off a certain amount of air they kick back on I believe( I dont own one). wire the trigger back I guess.  put this last in methods to fix right now I hate for you to drop a valve, Best it the rope meathod and run the piston up is safer. What are the chances the valve stem is bad???

Edited April 9, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[mainer311]

A vac leak isn’t going to cause a rich condition.

[banzai510(hainz)]

15 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

A vac leak isn’t going to cause a rich condition.

Yeah I was always confused on this then people say check for carb tightnesss ect...

[d.p]

14 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

A vac leak isn’t going to cause a rich condition.

 

Wet and Dry Fouling:

.......... Dry fouling, or carbon fouling, is often caused by an overly rich condition, and the problem may lie with your air cleaner (clogged) or carburetor. Other possible causes could be low compression, vacuum leak, overly retarded timing, or improper spark plug heat range.

 

That is from NGKs website and I know its to be taken as fact not sure what else could be causing it.  

[datzenmike]

Vacuum leak would usually let in more air leaning the mixture. This would affect mostly idle (high vacuum in intake) as the leak would remain constant and less air drawn in as the vacuum in the intake drops when under load and revved up. Unless they explain this I think they have made a mistake.

 

 

The whole point of the 'rope trick' is to avoid electricity, air pump, hoses, fittings and having to complete the job while you have an air supply. Too much could go wrong. With rope, that valve is going nowhere and a monkey couldn't fuck it up.

[d.p]

I guess the next best thing to do is swap the carbs between 1/2 and 3/4 and see if the problem moves to #4.  That would effectively rule out the carbs if it doesn't.  

I replaced the dizzy rotor and the cap I got was too small for my matchbox dizzy which is odd.  Dizzy rotor didn't seem to make any difference obviously as I am still taking about it.  Also swapped the BRE6 for a BRE5 on #2 which didn't make a difference either.  No matter what #2 plugs comes out covered in carbon.  

[thisismatt]

I think the only way to fix this is with a Tokyo Twirly Bird and EFI

[datzenmike]

I suggested the swap a while back but wasn't sure if they were L&R specific. Points caps and rotors are smaller than the EI distributors.

 

BR5ES IS a hotter range plug. I've always assumed the BPR5ES used on the exhaust side in the Z24 was a colder plug because of the exhaust blowing past it heats it up more. It's what the manual recommends.

 

 

 Did you swap the 2 and 3 wires see if it moves to the #3 plug? Easy and cheap.