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My 1971 521


d.p

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1 minute ago, d.p said:

I adjusted #2 a couple days ago by turning it in but I had no alternator so I didn't drive it until today.  I also put a new plug in #2 so if its fouled again then safe to assume that one is still too rich?

That screw you adjusted Is mostly for idle... 

 

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3 minutes ago, d.p said:

I adjusted #2 but need to check the plug and no I haven't run a compression test yet but I will soon.  Is the best way to do that with the coil disconnected and the throttle wide open?  Then just turn it over a couple times with the key?  Should be hot as well?

 

I have a screw in compression testet.

Mine as well do a compression test when you pull the plugs...

I'd pull all 4 just to see....

And I have never heard of checking the compression with the engine hot...

But I'm not saying that I'm right....

Edited by Crashtd420
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Fuck now this new alternator isn’t charging. Voltage while driving never goes above 12.4.  Was working fine all day today.  After checking the plugs it’s now not charging.  All wires are tight? IGN light goes off while driving around but doesn’t seem to charge. 
 

I was seeing 14 all day today driving around.  Could a worn old battery be the culprit? Bad ground? Hard to believe I have had this many bad alternators.  

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Ok so I took the original squealing alternator to the local alternator shop and had them rebuild it free of charge.  I have yet to install it but while there they spun it up and it charged so I should be ok.  But he did say it takes too much RPM to excite it and that is exactly what I have experienced with all the 200SX AL Delcos I have been through. 

 

As far as #2 plug fouling I got a new compression tester and got 180 across the board on all 4, no deviation whatsoever so not sure what the deal is.  Could my dizzy cap or rotor be causing it?  Running out of ideas why only that plug is fouling.  

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16 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

As far as #2 plug fouling I got a new compression tester and got 180 across the board on all 4, no deviation whatsoever so not sure what the deal is.  Could my dizzy cap or rotor be causing it?  Running out of ideas why only that plug is fouling.  

 

I had 2 ideas for you...

1 st check that the idle jet is seated properly....

 

2nd swap the #2 wire with the #3 and see if the problem moves to the #3 cylinder....

( and I mean disconnect both ends and switch the entire wire)

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

I had 2 ideas for you...

1 st check that the idle jet is seated properly....

 

2nd swap the #2 wire with the #3 and see if the problem moves to the #3 cylinder....

( and I mean disconnect both ends and switch the entire wire)

 

Ill check both and see. 

 

I did swap all the wires for brand new ones because the ones I had on there were the MSD ones that I made my self but didn't seem to matter.  

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11 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

Ill check both and see. 

 

I did swap all the wires for brand new ones because the ones I had on there were the MSD ones that I made my self but didn't seem to matter.  

Just ideas....

Trying to determine if it's the carburetor or the spark..... 

 

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2 hours ago, d.p said:

 

 

As far as #2 plug fouling I got a new compression tester and got 180 across the board on all 4, no deviation whatsoever so not sure what the deal is.  Could my dizzy cap or rotor be causing it?  Running out of ideas why only that plug is fouling.  

 

You would hear or feel a misfire. Sounds like a Subaru.

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I hear and feel it only after driving for awhile. Like 30-40 minutes.  When I first get in it it’s fine doesn’t miss.  Seems to be only with extended distances. So maybe heat related?  Grasping here.  

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Could be the throttle plates sealing/not sealing completely?

 

when are you checking your plugs? Technically to get a proper plug reading you should romp on it and shut it off immediately and then pull the plugs, no idling or cruising.

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46 minutes ago, demo243 said:

Could be the throttle plates sealing/not sealing completely?

 

when are you checking your plugs? Technically to get a proper plug reading you should romp on it and shut it off immediately and then pull the plugs, no idling or cruising.


First question, no idea.  Second just seems to be anytime I check them it’s the same story.  But I can certainly romp on it and then check them right away but what is that going to tell me? I say that because it’s eventually fouling while the other three seem to have no issue.  

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The plugs are only going to tell you what was happening just before you turned it off. Give-er for several minutes out on the highway where you can do this uninterrupted so the plugs self clean. Safely stab in the clutch and get the ignition off and pull over. Examine them on the side of the road. Heavy throttle may be fine. Part throttle or even idle may be the cause.

 

I have a wide band and can tell you the mixture does crazy stuff.

 

Does #2 have it's own float chamber or one float chamber for #1 and #2 ?

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9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The plugs are only going to tell you what was happening just before you turned it off. Give-er for several minutes out on the highway where you can do this uninterrupted so the plugs self clean. Safely stab in the clutch and get the ignition off and pull over. Examine them on the side of the road. Heavy throttle may be fine. Part throttle or even idle may be the cause.

 

I have a wide band and can tell you the mixture does crazy stuff.

 

Does #2 have it's own float chamber or one float chamber for #1 and #2 ?

 

9 hours ago, mainer311 said:


It’s one float chamber for both. There has to be something screwed up on one side of this carb.

 

I'll check the plugs at WOT sometime today hopefully.  I also considered buying a wide band sensor but figure that will be a last resort.  And like @mainer311 said its a single float chamber shared between #1 and 2.  

 

1 hour ago, demo243 said:

What are the turns for each mixture screw?

 

since that’s showing idle it could be as simple as that.

 

Roughly 2 out for each and maybe 1 -3/4 or 1 - 7/8 on #2 (turned in to lean it out).  

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