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My 1971 521


d.p

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29 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

I’ve heard those Ramair foam ones like to collapse, but I don’t have any first hand experience. The ITG’s have an internal frame.


I have a set of k&ns with a frame but don’t think they will even fit with my longer stacks.   Love the look without filters and it’s a shame I have to cover them up.   

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DP man you like spending money on those filters. Lucky to have folks like you keep the ecomomy going. Cause most Datsun owners it would COLLAPSE!.

 

 

I ran no filters on my yellow car as the horns were long and BIG 44s. it would splash back on the fender which needed cleaning.

 

long as you dont have a locas invasion your fine.  That yeelow car made it thirty years w/o filters, but if you got filter and fit I would run them

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Filters cost me $50.  

 

Went by the exhaust shop and got a quote for 2.25” SS exhaust with resonator and muffler for $800 so I’ll probably do that in the next couple weeks.   And honestly the money I spent on this truck is probably equal to what I spent on just wheels and exhaust for my other car.  
 

 

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Back pressure helping an engine is a myth.  A pervasive one.  The benefits of properly sized exhaust are found in scavenging ability and exhaust velocity.

 

https://drivetribe.com/p/how-does-exhaust-backpressure-work-UVtF94NcRtGs2lm_FD8dlg?iid=ag_X6s2nS2mx7GIZAo2FEA

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:


It dropped a main jet on #2.

I mention earlier to ck the jet blocks.  so figured it was done already.

 

 

mine back out all the time cause of vibration

 

 

as for the exhaust I think 2in is fine and ezer to hide under neath. But it his vehicle. My 521 510 I did with 2.25 and with I didnt  but was too late. I bet this motor be lucky to put 25hp over a stock l20 with a 45% increase in exhaust size.

There was a old grass Roots motor sport. report on exhaust and the cheap 2in but good made in USA Turbo muffler was just as good as those fancy exhaust.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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1 minute ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I mention earlier to ck the jet blocks.  so figured it was done already.

 

 

mine back out all the time cause of vibration

 

Funny story, I did check them but just from the top to make sure they were tight.   The thought never cross my mind to back them all the way out and see if the bottom jets were tight.  It was only after I switched the carbs and actually pulled them completely out of the bad carb to see that the it had come completely free.   When I was trying to get it out I dropped the 2 pins and 2 ball bearings and lost 1 of the BBs in my stone driveway but luckily I was able to find it and put it all back together.

 

I also put that 160 t-stat with 1/8" hole in as well but that upper t-stat gasket was nearly completely disintegrated so I need to get another one.  

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Yes. Get a 180F thermostat. L series are more efficient at above 180F. Running 160F because it runs hot or pings is not fixing the problem. That's the radiator's job. If it can't cool then increase the water flow by using a Z24 water pump. Or increase the air flow through it with electric fans. Get a larger radiator. You should be able to drive through the desert and not run any hotter.

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18 hours ago, d.p said:


I have a set of k&ns with a frame but don’t think they will even fit with my longer stacks.   Love the look without filters and it’s a shame I have to cover them up.   

Why didnt you go with something like this if you dont wanna cover them?

Screenshot_20210413-152355_eBay.jpg

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50 minutes ago, d.p said:

thermostat gasket?  

I have spares as I had 3 datsun going at one time I alwasy have spares and also water outlets and housings incase a Temp sender goes bad and cracks pulling them out. I always put a new gasket on the stat anywasy why risk running a used one when they 89cents. Ok  $1.50

 

increase the water flow by using a Z24 water pump.???

 Mike Isnt the stat closed most of the time anyways so a bigger water pump is just going to recycle the water and cavitate isnt it?  I really think the stock pump moves water fine if the stat is open  and with sidedrafts there is no water line to recirculate the water as a stock heated waterline intake

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Spend $8 or more on a thermostat. Don't fuck something up because the 89c thermostat stuck.

 

Screenshot_20210413-152355_eBay.thumb.jp

 

These don't really do anything. If only on pavement the risk is minimal and these will stop a bouncing stone chip. Won't do fuck all for abrasive dust and sand. You can't see the carburetors while driving around anyway.

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Spend $8 or more on a thermostat. Don't fuck something up because the 89c thermostat stuck.

 

Screenshot_20210413-152355_eBay.thumb.jp

 

These don't really do anything. If only on pavement the risk is minimal and these will stop a bouncing stone chip. Won't do fuck all for abrasive dust and sand. You can't see the carburetors while driving around anyway.

Well he has been running with no filter or hood.... i personally wouldn't use them, just going off what he was saying... I'd rather have a proper filter.. 

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27 minutes ago, d.p said:

No hood or filters YOLO. 

422BB1D8-061F-4318-9AB8-F1E7DC7B539C.jpeg

Damn you have tons of room for a filter.... that intake is nice and short...

I dont know if the spacing is similar or the same as a Weber or Dellorto, but you could go this route... I bet they can make the base plate you would need....

http://www.bitsofitaly.com/cold-air-box-intake/

Screenshot_20210413-194335_Chrome.jpg

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None of that is my style.  I will just use the ramair socks that Taka recommended and worst case the ITG ones.   Like Mike said they dont see them with the hood on anyway and I am going to eventually put it back on.  

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