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About demo243

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday August 28

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Greater Boston Area
  • Cars
    71 4Dr 510 - Carb'ed Ka24de; 78 620 Ka24de
  • Interests
    Dattos! Bikes, surfing, camping, PBR

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  1. Prime driving season! Perfect for those adventures.
  2. Nice looking truck! Dig the new wheels! Everyone has their oil preferences... hahaha. I love mobil 1 but only in my Tacoma. For the dattos I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil- it has the extra zddp in it- just another option for you. The diesel oils might be cheaper. I don’t really need to use it anymore since I’m KA swapped in both... but probably still will.
  3. ok- just went and checked my setups. the only correction I made above is the grounds for the relays. low beam relay is grounded always to common ground. hi beam ground is run through the selector stalk when highs are turned on via the stalk both Low and highs are on. both my 510 and 620 are h4 bulb converted not that it should make a difference
  4. Happy to help! Id have to look into the stock light switch diagram a bit more - or maybe someone else can chime in, but if it isn’t capable of handling the power for the headlights run through it you could add a 3rd relay in there — or potentially reuse the stock original one in that spot. Relays essentially let you use a low power switch to turn on and off a high power accessory- if you aren’t familiar with them. They protect the switch and keep you from running to much power through them. Wiring is a bit weird, but overall fairy simple, just need to get in the right mindset hahah.
  5. Ill have to go check this afternoon and see if I can confirm this... but if I remember correctly this should help. I will preface this with saying both my 620 and my 510 have custom dashes so I didn't need to try to use the stock 510 or 620 headlight switch. With that in mind it was simpler to use the supplied American Autowire headlight switch which was designed to handle the power for the headlights run through it. For reference here is the quick schematic for the American Autowire set up (Highway 15) - you may need to open it up in my flickr page to get the full size or google it. I have this diagram in my 510 build photos--- BUT --- I did NOT wire it up this way --- helps for general idea of how the relays work though. So with all that info--- From the American Autowire Headlight switch --- Park Lights (Brown) went direct to the parking lights with the needed splicing/splits to get to all of them. Dimmer Feed (Yellow) --- this per American Autowire is supposed to go to their floor mounted dimmer switch for hi/low beam power, but I wanted to use the stock 510/620 stalk, so I ran the yellow feed wire to the new relays as the power from battery (30). Crtsy Dome (white) - didnt use since I dont have one. Gauge lights (grey) - to gauge lights HL power in from fuse panel (red) - power in from panel Park power in from panel (orange) - power in from panel Relay set up- Post 30 -- Yellow (from AAW light switch on above schematic)- Power from dimmer feed from american autowire switch, split into two wires and run to Post 30 on both relays. Post 85 - Ground — low beam relay always grounded to common ground- high beam relay grounded to common ground through hi-beam selector stalk Post 86 - Power In (generic) - Run to 86 on both relays to provide power for the relays to function --- be sure to run this from a switched power source! If it is run from a always on source it will drain your battery. Post 87 - Power out - Run from 87 to their respective bulbs (hi/low) with a split off the high to power the high beam indicator. Post 87a - not used Essentially my low beam relay is always on, and power to the lows is supplied through the AAW light switch—high beam headlight relay functions off of a switched ground which is provided by the turn signal/hi-low stalk and the relays have constant power to function. As I said I will try to confirm this later this afternoon.
  6. I used American auto wire to wire up my 620 and 510. American auto wires fuse panel had some relays built in, and I added two for the high and low beam headlights. I ended up using the American auto wire headlight switch in both, but kept the stalk for hi/low function. it’s been over a year since I did the 620 and a few since I did the 510- so unfortunately don’t remember specifics off the top of my head. Both are running aftermarket gauges now too. if you get stuck on something I can check into how I wired it up on mine.
  7. Another note- @Jsoi510 since you are redoing all the wiring the stock diagram really isn’t about the colors of what goes to what —- since I’m assuming you already pulled all the stock wires. It’s really about understanding how the system was designed, what splices into what and how the switches work. It helps you redesign the EZ system to match/work for the Datsun system. I found it helped to draw/write out some of the more complicated systems before actually wiring them up. hope that makes sense
  8. Once you get rolling it gets easier! if you haven’t done so already print one of these out to cross reference. copied this from zcar Break it down simply to power and ground. Worthwhile to update your headlight relays while your at it. Headlights and turn/hazards are the hardest part.
  9. Not much to update... Got some time to mess around with it this afternoon and swapped the B&M short shifter to a stock KA shifter -- my god the throws are long! -- anyway it unfortunately did not fix my deceleration grind... so that rules out the shifter... need to get under the car again to see if the trans is potentially contacting the tunnel... but I dont think it is. That leads to either u-joints from the driveshaft or a bad transmission or the fidenza flywheel is too light and doesnt dampen the vibrations enough... Anyway... I think I am going to pick up another ebay cheapo short shifter, I like the feel of that one in the 620 better then the super notchey B&M one. The B&M one really doesnt like reverse, which is quite annoying...
  10. What about swapping the steering wheel? With the stock wheel in my 620 with an old bench seat it was tight... brushed my legs getting in. Went to a smaller aftermarket wheel and gained some space that way. Don’t hit the wheel now. Stock wheel was to thin for my liking anyway.
  11. Side note - Anyone know what the thread pitch is for the nuts that hold the grill badge on? Found out mine was just glued on... nearly lost it!
  12. Waiting for a hydraulic press to pop out the old bushings from the LCAs before I can put the front end back together so messing around with a few little things. Swapped a new volt meter in. Nothing special there. Also made a simple mount and moved the fuel pump. It had been on its side in the back corner or the trunk, but I didn’t really like the placement and carter pumps are supposed to be mounted vertically- so threw this together real quick with some spare aluminum sheet I had laying around. I’ll shorten the fuel line and lengthen the wires at some point.
  13. Or if you plan on sound deadening a layer of that would probably work too.
  14. I have driven it- to be honest I couldn’t tell you though... the car is so loud... and with poly engine and trans there is a lot of vibration- including the metal t3 parcel shelf and rear firewall which definitely rattle. I do think it’s better then the metal ones which rattle really loudly. I did put a screw in the center of the panel to help reduce vibration if you did it right you could put some thick foam rubber strips between the door and the panel to minimize any vibration.
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