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demo243

Senior Member
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About demo243

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday August 28

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greater Boston Area
  • Cars
    71 4Dr 510 - Carb'ed Ka24de; 78 620 Ka24de
  • Interests
    Dattos! Bikes, surfing, camping, PBR

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  1. If you keep your buckets, it won't matter... but the 240 KA trans does move the shifter back a few inches. In my standard cab with the redeye mounts it still fit through the stock shifter hole, but was far enough back that I needed to get a short shifter to keep it from interfering with the bench seat. 20190815_185841 by devon M, on Flickr I thought the shifter might be backwards... but it seemed to be too far forward when flipped around... the long shift knob didnt help either... Picked up a cheap short shifter from ebay and it is all good
  2. demo243

    ka24de info

    Japan and the distributor mean its definitely from a 240sx. S13 will have 3 bolts on the top of the valve cover. S14 will have 2 and then the third on the very back but lower. There are some other tell tale signs but those cover bolts are pretty straightforward. Arguably the S14 intake manifold is better as it doesnt have the butterflys in it... but if your running it stock it shouldn't matter
  3. Yes used the factory Ignition switch on both. On the 510 I got the connection from Vintageconnections and connected it that way. On the 620 I just used female spade connectors on the ends of the wires.
  4. Here is the set up in my 510 - Hooked up all the relays under the glove box. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Here is the set up in the 620 - Running a custom dash on this so the relays are behind that for the headlights 20191106_214945 by devon M, on Flickr
  5. Complete rewires can be done - done it in both my 510 and 620. Painless "can't" help you as all there stuff is ford/gm oriented... same as all the other wiring harness kits... but there are plenty of people who have used them. If you know anything about car electrical systems its not that bad a job, just takes some time and a little bit on ingenuity. I used the American Autowire Highway 15 kit for both of my rewires, but both cars are running pretty stripped down systems. Sounds like you are planning on running some additional items so it would probably be worth getting the 22 or similar kit so you have the spare fuses--- even if you don't use them as intended. You will have to re-use some of your plugs or you can get new ones from http://www.vintageconnections.com/ . Essentially you likely wont use any of the switches or connectors that come with the wiring kits. Although I did use the headlight switch on both cars and connected the lights with a bosche relay set up. Both jobs took me about 2 weekends to complete. I definitely recommend getting the CanAm box set up for the VG, made wiring in the KA in 620 super easy and keeps the engine wiring separate from the car harness. I'll dig up a couple photos of my two set ups
  6. Both a running full new wiring harnesses so the external regulator is removed, along with choke relay and what not. The KA alternator does has a two prong plug, and I believe the wiring of that plug is part of my problem. When I did a drain test, when I unplugged that 2 prong plug the light dimmed considerably. Need to do some more digging on the Alt wiring. Charges fine, but it is obviously drawing power when off.
  7. demo243

    my 1974 dats

    Both have KAs in them so updated to the KA alternator. Thanks! Ill order up one of the switches an see how it goes...
  8. demo243

    my 1974 dats

    Thats what I am looking at... one from ebay... guess Ill pull the trigger and see how it goes Yea new harness- American Autowire Highway 15 kit. Used the same kit for my 510 as well. Takes some time comparing diagrams and getting it figured out... but most all the wires a new an labeled now. Only big issue I have on both the 510 and the 620 is a drain on the battery--- but I think that is associated to the alternator... I think... On the truck right now I am just dealing with the Turn Signal Issue... reverse lights but I think that is just the switch, and the tach signal as well but that has to do with the KA swap.
  9. demo243

    my 1974 dats

    Did you rewire your turn signal switch? or get a new one? Looks like yours is pretty fresh. I just did a rewire of my 620 and I am having trouble with the rear brake lights/signals... when either the right or left is on both flash and when you press the brake both go solid... its like the interupter in the turn signal switch isnt working....
  10. They haven't salted the roads yet here... once they do datsun driving done
  11. I might be interested is that 4.88 gear set.... gotta get the truck driving first... Hoping to reg it in the next two weeks or so
  12. demo243

    Bent valve?

    Actually I have a digital copy of the '78 service manual I can send you. Dm your email and I can send it. Or check here-
  13. demo243

    Bent valve?

    The FSMs were available online off of one of the nissan web sites I heard they got taken down though... I'm sure some one has one. That l series book mentioned earlier is really good too. They can be found on ebay or amazon for a decent price sometimes
  14. I would say just build it and drive it! I hate seeing cars get passed along and never finished cause they aren't perfect... Just drive it! But back with your earlier comments now is a good time to take stock on the engine and see where you are at... if your sr20 is in pieces or not finished might be the perfect time to offload it for a complete and running drivetrain--- be it L, sr, or ka
  15. I looked back at my wiring... Dark Green + Black/Red are tied into the front turn signals and the dash indicators same as the diagrams... Light green + black/red are tied into the rears and spliced together after the hazard and turn switch. Flasher power in is seperate to both the hazards and turn signals since my fuse panel allows for it - both tied in through the blue wires... there is an aditional power wire that I had to both--- red and green--- but i pulled it and it seems it doesnt do anything.... tried looping the two green wires in the hazard switch and that didnt help either.... Not sure where to go with clearing up the rear tail light issue... according to my test light it stems from the switch... but could be in part of my wiring... hope that all makes sense...
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