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demo243 last won the day on November 25 2025
demo243 had the most liked content!
About demo243
- Birthday August 28
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Greater Boston Area
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Cars
71 4Dr 510 - '73 240z
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Interests
Dattos! Bikes, surfing, camping, PBR
Recent Profile Visitors
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demo243's Achievements
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Yeeeewwww!!!! Great to see it running! Im digging those black Longchamps with the silver center- looks great with those Falkens on there.
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Yes Longchamp everything! Someday I’ll get a set…. Liking where everything is going with this car!
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If it’s riding on the bumps it will be rough. You can cut the stock bumps down like Mike said or you can use an ultra low profile bump stop like these/ I ran them on my old ‘78 in the stock location. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9132g?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI49j-j_umkgMVsEX_AR23GTxWEAQYASABEgKlxfD_BwE Dumping these trucks will always end up in a rough ride unless you do some custom fab work for coilovers. Even then with such limited suspension travel you can’t expect much for comfort.
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Definitely best to avoid driving it during the winter around here- the amount of salt used on the roads is atrocious…. This about sums up winter driving in the northeast- With that said as long as you don’t mind the cold we can usually get April-Nov for driving season. Sometimes a little earlier or later, just depends on snow and rain to wash the salt away. I think New Hampshire is doing away with their vehicle inspections so could always grab a cheap winter beater if need be.
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Welcome to the Northeast! There are a few of us "active" on here - though its pretty small community. Lots of Datsuns stashed away around here though - just very hidden. I only know of a couple 620s around here - there is a guy out in Glouster with a blue 620 he has a thread on here. Also there is a guy up in Amesbury I think with my old truck. Ive seen a few others at the Japanese Car Day at Larz Anderson in the fall. There are a couple big cars and coffees up in NH - Southern NH Cars and Coffee is in Manchester I think and Seacoast Cars and Coffee out in Portsmouth. Haven't made it out to either though. Most days I just end up driving my cars around locally... Good luck with the move! Let us know when you make it east - always good to know a few other Datsun guys around. Im really missing my old 620 and unofficially on the hunt for another one.
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I sadly tucked mine away too since I’m assuming they are going to dump a ton of salt on the roads tomorrow… Maybe if we get a good rain I might get to sneak another drive in. We keep saying it- but we definitely gotta get a Mass or NE Datsun gathering together! As for door cards I had good luck using ABS sheets. Make a cardboard template or trace the door car and then just score the back and split it.
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This is basically what I envision as well- just trying to figure out the parts. Can’t seem to find a 6-1 option. I’m trying to figure out how I can make one that allows me to clamp the 6 bare cable ends. Ultimately for the few times I actually drive this car in the cold I should just raise the needless. Takes about 15 minutes to do. Or I can just drive the 510- the PHH Mikunis don’t seem to have the same issue with the cold weather.
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Well this project may be done before it begins 🤣 Snuck out there today to take a peak at the set up (its been a while...) and there is not much room to work with. The simple knob for each carb definitely won't work, and would be very frustrating I could try the individual cable option, but running the elbow and housing will be really tight with the fuel hoses in the way - and the elbow may not even clear the carb next to it. Also I would need to fab a pretty long bracket to reach it out far enough to not be hidden under the filters. The best option looks like it would be a custom cable off each carb run back to the firewall. It would be the simplest and cleanest in the engine bay. The biggest issue is figuring out the junction. The cable needs a ball end at the carb, but the junction box I posted earlier needs a ball end as well.... I could potentially use a small set screw style piece if it fits into the junction. Then I could run two junctions and connect them with a 2 into 1 lever on the center console.
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Well that didn't take long.... Here is something very interesting- 3 In To 1 Throttle Cable Junction I might just pick up 3 of these to have on hand. I theory I could run 3 carbs into each box and then the 2 boxes into a 3rd box for single lever in the cabin. Just need to figure out what is needed on the Mikuni side so I can sort it out. Hmmmmm 6 cables from the carbs will be kinda ugly, but I bet I could wrap them in some loom covering and then they would "hide away". *** Edit- Found it here too with the part number - Sp1 SM-05056 3 into 1 Junction Box https://www.mc-powersports.com/sp1-3-into-1-junction-box/?srsltid=AfmBOoqdGJFcr5gRlMTTlAKXROgOb2nJ1rqDlqKsW3sJ4e2FwNLmGNsf
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Poor Z really hasn't been driven since Labor Day. Its been stuffed in the corner of the garage while the 510 gets all the love.... Now that its getting colder I have been thinking about this HSR carb set up and wanted to put some notes here - mostly for my own reference. One of the drawbacks of the HSRs is that they are very sensitive to outside air temps and when its gets cold they run very lean at idle and cruise. This can be compensated for by raising the needle one clip when the seasons change but they still take little more effort to start. Now these carbs do have an enrichment circuit; so I am starting to think about giving them a try to see if that negates the need to adjust the needle twice a year. The catch is now I need to deal with 6 carbs and 6 knobs. The enrichment circuit is located on the back of the carb. The simplest option would be to run the solid pull knob - but its pretty tight back there with the fuel rail and the throttle cable bracket so I think I will need to run a remote mount. Mikuni makes a cable so no big deal, and there are some brackets out there that mount the knob underneath the carb to the float bowl - how ever I think I am still too tight for space here. Also the other issue is these would be hidden underneath the air filters and require stopping and opening the hood to engage or disengage them.... The ideal solution would be to run cables all the way back into the cabin. But I don't want to run 6 individual knobs.... I can't seem to find a 6 into 1 cable system- not surprising... but It seems I can find some 3 into 1 and 2 into 1 options so I need to dig into those options some more. 2 or 3 knobs/levers I can deal with; but these all seem to be pretty short. I'll need to get out there an do some measuring. Here's one example of a 2 into 1 - I would need to adapt it thought to extend/shorten the lines for each pair of carbs. Im sure the cables and housing can be sourced, potentially as easy as running down to the local bike shop- but I can't seem to find the Lever assembly by itself. Or I just run 6 of these and figure out a mounting solution underneath each carb... This particular one comes from ProCycle.US but I can get genuine Mikuni ones. Im linking this photo for its simple mounting tab.
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Definitely got to check those out. Would be a nice addition to both cars.
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Snuck out for a drive this afternoon. It was cold - even snowed on me! Was good to get out. Car is feeling good! Snapped some shots - cause did you really drive your Datsun if you didn't take a couple photos? Really starting to dig these mesh wheels.
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Good call on running it back up to the tank! One of the issues I’ve had with this car is that the tank is just vented to the ground- charcoal canister long gone before I got it- this cause overflow issues with a fresh tank and warm weather it would just puke out the vent. I recently T’ed the tank vent back into the vent coming off the filler neck but hadn’t had a chance to “test” it. The tank vent was still very close in height to the vent to ground line and I was afraid it would still leak. What I have done now is add a T a few inches off the 16mm port off the tank which goes to a second T a few inches from that. The small tank vent and the return port are connected to that second T. The 16mm hose then connects up to the filler neck, and the small port off that connector piece runs down through my roll over ball valve and to the ground. Now if the gas expands and liquid comes out either the small tank vent or return it should go down the other line or will dump into the 16mm line and back into the tank. The port off the 16mm connector at the filler neck is now the highest point and the vent to ground. I think that’s the best I can have it till a run a return line for the carbs some day and then I can just tie the small tank vent directly into the 16mm line T. We will see! Going to try and get out there tomorrow or Sunday and fill it back up and run it.
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🤣 I don’t think my local Nissan dealer would even know what the car was! I rolled by a few months back in my 240z and pulled in to get a shot of it next to the new Z and was getting side eyed by the sales guys…. No wave, no thumbs up, nothing…. Never any excitement from the parts guys either! I know it’s not a requirement to be a Nissan fan boy to work there… but come on it’s history! My best Nissan dealer story though is I took my kid with me to pick up some parts - he was about 3 - we walk in and there is a big Frontier picture on the wall, he stops, points, and yells “hey dad a Tacoma!” 🤣🤣
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I actually thought of that last night- thinking I might do that. I just don’t trust the caps. My car definitely had that double cap. I thought I saved it… but can’t find it. But anyway I’m thinking T it into the vent line might be best as suggested.
