Jump to content

demo243

Senior Member
  • Content Count

    1,129
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,114 Excellent

About demo243

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday August 28

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greater Boston Area
  • Cars
    71 4Dr 510 - Carb'ed Ka24de; 78 620 Ka24de
  • Interests
    Dattos! Bikes, surfing, camping, PBR

Recent Profile Visitors

8,182 profile views
  1. demo243

    Just bought a 521

    Found the cam I was running as well - Comp Cam's # 79-131-6 Grind # 280S . 2000-6000rpm; Adv. Dur. 280 Int./Exh.; Valve Lift .460 Int Just for reference. I think 40's will be fine - My buddy B^2 is running 40's on his L20b and one of the Cali Guys ran 40's on his L20b, but both were "stock" engines. With the work your planning I would just do some research and double check, since 45s may suit your engine better.
  2. demo243

    Just bought a 521

    Thinking back on it too... My L20b originally had DCOM 40s on it. I swapped to Mikuni 44s after one of the Weber mounting ears broke off. Its been a while, but i do recall the car having better mid-top end power w/ the 44s... but thats was only on the butt dyno.
  3. demo243

    Just bought a 521

    Keep in mind though that a 36mm choke is the largest choke you can run on a 40. Where as a 36mm choke is smack in the middle of the range for a 45. Here is what I ran in my Mikuni 44s per Todd's recommendation. Ill have to do some digging on what cam I was running. CR was unknown , but running some dished Ross Pistons and a w58 head --- edit looking back at old posts, the head was decked and ported. Just something to think about
  4. demo243

    Just bought a 521

    With all that in mind you may want to bump up to Weber 45s. I ran Mikuni 44s on my L20b after talking with the late Todd Walrich of Wolf Creek. His reasoning was you can easily choke down the 44s and its helps in the actual usable power range of these engines. Once you start messing with Cams and compression 40's end up running out as the revs go up. Per Todd, for a stock L20b crusing around 40s are fine, but for anything modified or with the intent of more spirited driving 44(45 webers) are better. Just something to think about.
  5. I made a plate to replace the booster pedestal. Re-used the studs from the pedestal to bolt the plate to the fire wall and then bolted the master to the plate. I need to go back on of these days and remake it with a slightly thicker aluminum... there is a touch of flex, but its what I had on hand... I had to pick up a new push rod as well, but grabbed one from Summit and made a few small tweaks too it. Its all spelled out in my thread, linked to specific posts below. Let me know if you have any questions. End thread jack... Totally on board with getting it as far back as possible. Did that with the KA in my 510 by having the iron mounts set back a bit. Get this thing done this winter! We'll get @Crashtd420 and @mainer311 and go cruising in trucks this spring!
  6. Saw your saw blades on Facebook... want to run them so bad... but no way they will fit for me... those OZs are RAD! Damn that engine is close to the firewall! I actually ditched the booster on my 620... but that’s a bit of a personal preference since my 510 doesn’t have one and my booster was shot anyway. 280zx could be a possibility for you for an upgraded master- it’s what a lot of the 510 guys run, myself included. It’s a 15/16” front and rear disc set up. Don’t know about booster compatibility though... but if your running bigger calipers the bigger volume could be helpful. You’d have to do some research though to confirm the fitment. truck looks to be coming along nicely!!!
  7. I’ll probably pull em out one of these days to at least start em up and run em. The 620 has a bad fuel line from the tank though... seaping pretty good when running... The current garage is pretty small so I was thinking one of the radiant ones maybe... either way there isn’t much room to do much work in their anyway... I can’t wait for spring!!!! Just want to drive em and cruise and hopefully hit up a cars and coffee or something... hopefully this COVID thing settles down again.
  8. Haven’t tried them in the headlight buckets yet... but they are the right diameter. Not bad for an H4 conversion either for someone who wants to do that... with or without the leds
  9. Winter time here in the NE... so not much going on with the dattos... to much salt on the roads to drive them, and there isn’t enough space or heat to really work on them in the garage... thinking about maybe getting a wall mount heater, but we’ll see... Anyway picked up some new headlights for the 510. One of the things I miss about running the air funnel is not having my yellow fogs as running light. Was looking at an H4 conversion for another post (mine are already converted) and stumbled upon these lamps with amber leds on the bottom. Took a few minutes and ghetto rigged em up to the 620 since it was easier to access. The LEDs seem a bit dim... bummer... but voltage was low and the wiring was sketchy at best... so hopefully they will be brighter with full voltage. If not oh well... only about $60 bucks...
  10. This car started it all for me. I was looking for something I could turn into a "dedicated" race/autoX car. Something I didn't need to worry about driving to work on Monday. I went to the vintage races at Limerock and saw Mike killing it with this 510, running up there with the Z cars. That was when I decided it had to be a 510. Found a 4 door down in MD that had been "prep'ed" or raced at some point and dove in headfirst. The car has no spent alot more time on the street, but still has a trackday/autoX focus. Hoping at this point to find a 2 door to turn into a full prep'ed car and turn the 4 door into more of a street "hot rod", now that I have the 620 to use as a fun truck/parts runner.
  11. Haven't done an SR swap, but on my KA in both my 510 and my 620 I used a 240sx cable. It does end up "swooping" across the engine, but large "swoopy" bends are much better for throttle actuation and reducing any cable drag. Back when I was running an L20b in my 510 I used the same 240sx cable, but shortened it down since the carbs were on the same side as the pedal. To shorten it, just separate the cable and housing, trim the housing down to length then run the cable and shorten it to the appropriate length and use a barrel nut. As with pretty much anything with these cars any swap requires some tweaks and messing around with stuff, even with any available "bolt in" parts. This is the setup in my 620 - The cable comes out from the firewall, runs along the valve cover - using the plug wire holder as a guide- wraps up over the valve cover and down to the throttle body. I am happy with how smooth it is, and felt it was cleaning then crossing over mid valve cover.
  12. 510 Whale Tail Spoiler - Not my taste... but I know some people are on the look out for these https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/d/vancouver-datsun-510-whale-tail/7248098023.html
  13. Thats the biggest fight I have with myself... I could easily pick up something like a sprite or a ready to race first gen RX7 for less then I'll probably get a 510 shell for... End of the day though, I love the 510, and doubt I will ever competitively race it so it is more a personal project/fun car for me - hence autoX and track days. Might as well build something I am drawn to at that point. I have a buddy who built a bug eye spite for AutoX though and that thing was RAD! Looking forward to seeing how yours comes together!
  14. I do in my sig. always wanted to throw a turbo boxer Subaru engine in one of these... although I’m a big fan of keeping it in the family... I bet changing spark plugs would be a bitch!!! Gotta pull the engine
  15. I’ll check those out. Don’t want to jack this guys thread... but... Doesn’t idle cold, so the idle is set mechanically and require hold it open a little bit on start up. Once warm it’s ok- makes me think that’s IACV related. Then once it’s running with the O2 plugged in it will drive fine and then suddenly fall flat on it’s face, then run fine again. Always stumbles right at the least opportune moment, like pulling out into traffic... with the O2 unplugged it’s runs fine, but very rich (stinks), and isn’t quite as peppy. I’ve got the engine stripped down as much as possible so that all probably doesn’t help either... might try and carb it like my 510 is this summer, potentially with bike carbs, kinda interested in a Mikuni HSR conversion. The only major complaint I have with the KA is how tight everything is in and around this intake... makes it a pain working on it... Anyway, sorry to thread jack OPs post...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.