d.p Posted January 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2021 Damn @mklotz70 you have a video for everything. A god amongst men. Those helped a lot and wondering the best way to apply RTV to the bottom of the steering box? My fear is too much will gum up the bearing cage and fuck me over in the long run. The biggest pain is getting the cap in and then having it leak then rinse and repeat. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 5, 2021 Report Share Posted January 5, 2021 1 hour ago, d.p said: Damn @mklotz70 you have a video for everything. A god amongst men. Those helped a lot and wondering the best way to apply RTV to the bottom of the steering box? My fear is too much will gum up the bearing cage and fuck me over in the long run. The biggest pain is getting the cap in and then having it leak then rinse and repeat. Is everything completely assembled minus the cover? Maybe that cap should have been the first thing installed, then you could clean up any overage on the inside... or even add another bead on the inside..... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Is everything completely assembled minus the cover? Maybe that cap should have been the first thing installed, then you could clean up any overage on the inside... or even add another bead on the inside..... Nah completely disassembled right now. Was going to install the cap first once I was confident it would seal. I did it the other way around yesterday and it leaked which lead me down this road. Oh and its a bitch to reach in the inside of the cap when installed, no room with the pitman arm gear which I was also wondering about. Anyone know what size nut that fucker is? Biggest I have is 27mm and its not big enough. Would like to replace the seal while I am doing all of this. If I take that off I assume that gear would come out the top and give me room to work if need be. Edited January 5, 2021 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 5, 2021 Report Share Posted January 5, 2021 I just measured mine and I got 1.175 which is a little bigger than 1 1/8.... My guess is 30mm... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 5, 2021 Report Share Posted January 5, 2021 Damn now I need to get a 30mm socket, I need to do that seal too.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2021 9 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Damn now I need to get a 30mm socket, I need to do that seal too.... Haha never ends. I swear I have bought more tools over the past month and half then I have bought over the past couple years. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: Damn now I need to get a 30mm socket, I need to do that seal too.... I believe there’s a 30mm nut on the Frontier too, so you might as well. 26, 28, 30, and 32mm are all great sockets to have if you work on Jap vehicles. 4wd spindle nuts, and upper and lower ball joint nuts. Edited January 6, 2021 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 57 minutes ago, mainer311 said: I believe there’s a 30mm nut on the Frontier too, so you might as well. 26, 28, 30, and 32mm are all great sockets to have if you work on Jap vehicles. 4wd spindle nuts, and upper and lower ball joint nuts. I was just thinking wouldn't the steering fall under body stuff and actually be a sae and not metric like the motor. There is a possibility it could be a 1-3/16 ... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 I just went into my basement and got another measurement.... I do think its 1-3/16 ... Its 1.1875 and I was getting measurements of about 1.185 on the nut..... I was a little off earlier but dp had me thinking metric so I just assumed 30 was the right one.... still might fit, only a .006 difference between the 2 sockets... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 Ima pick up a 30mm socket and will let you know if it works. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 On 1/4/2021 at 6:05 PM, datzenmike said: De-grease the old one, smear a small amount of RTV around the edge, insert into place. Get a 1/2 " ratchet extension and hold against the center of the bulge, hit hard with a small sledge. The plug will expand and lock into place, the RTV is insurance, probably don't need it. This is what I did on my 620 box. The plug could be shrunk a tad by hitting the back of it with a ball peen before re-installing it. Then it would be sure to wedge itself into place. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 6, 2021 Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 20 hours ago, d.p said: Ima pick up a 30mm socket and will let you know if it works. Already did on my way home, fit perfectly..... Now I just need to go rent a puller to get that arm off..... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: Already did on my way home, fit perfectly..... Now I just need to go rent a puller to get that arm off..... Fuck yeah man. I am going to get one tomorrow but waiting for the seal to show up sometime this week. Already have a 3 set puller that I have yet to use as well. Got the gear box caps as well and used my dremmel to smooth out the inside and should be good now. Not even going to try and seal that until I replace the seal on the pitman arm, maybe paint the column too. 3 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 Got this puller set from Amazon, $30 no idea if it will work though. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084SXLVK4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also got a Koyo radiator and 200SX 60AMP alternator on the way. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 If you can rig that 3 jaw into a 2 jaw, it might work. I used a large pitman arm puller on mine: 3 Quote Link to comment
greenthumb Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 You might get lucky with a 2 jaw puller depending on how tight the arm is on there. The proper tool that Mainer referenced is the bomb though 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Any will work with heat and a hammer 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 I have broken every two jaw puller I have ever purchased. This puller has never let me down - https://shop.snapon.com/product/Pitman-Arm-Pullers/Pitman-Arm-Puller-(Domestic-Cars-Light-Trucks)/CJ119B As Matt suggested, if it doesn't pop right off, use a bottle torch and apply heat to the arm and walk away. Sometimes a smack with a hammer will break the tension built up on the splines. FYI - leave the nut on the shaft, but loose, or you will see your pitman arm and puller go flying across the shop when it finally pops. 3 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 I have had the same problem pulling pitman arms. I use this method now. I clean the pitman arm and bottom of the box. I loosen the nut but as Stoffregen mentioned I leave the nut in place for safety, then I soak the pitman arm and shaft in WD40 and let that sit over night reapplying it every few hours. The next day I take a 2 lb hammer and set the steering on a heavy table or concrete, I use a socket under the pitman arm for support. I give both sides a couple of whacks with the 2 lb hammer and the try to get it loosened with the puller. If this does not work I wipe off any extra WD40 and then heat the pitman arm with my Mapp gas bottle torch. I get it hot and then (do this outside where you are not breathing the fumes) I spray while still hot with WD40. If the WD40 flames when you spray the pitman arm it is too hot. you want the WD40 to smoke up butt not flame up. I do this several times smacking it with the hammer in between each heating and spraying. I then go back to using the puller. I repeat these steps until the pitman arm comes loose. Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any mishap that might occur during this process. DO AT OWN RISK. 3 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 Man Pittman arm have me no trouble with this tool. Like three turn with a breaker bar and she gave it up. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 Now for the seal. I got a metal and rubber one same part number. Is one better than the other? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 I find the 'rubber' covered ones shave it off when hammering in anyway. I just replaced my axle seals and one went in, the other scraped some of the rubber so I don't know if it's good or not. I have to take the rear end out this spring so I will put in a new one. Since you have them both look on the inside where the rubber will touch the spline. Are they both the same? or is the metal one farther in? What I mean is the seal going to be riding on the exact place the old one was rubbing or is it farther in on fresh metal??? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 13, 2021 Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 One is a double lip and one isn’t. Why they’re the same part is beyond me, because they aren’t. ID and OD may be the same, but if it were me, I’d run the double. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 13, 2021 Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 The point I was making is if the lip is in farther it will ride against fresh smooth spline. Some chev timing cover seals are this way. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 Ill measure them and see. Got my driveshaft back along with powder coated exhaust manifold and timing cover. Also got a Koyo radiator. I think I should probably stop buying shit until I’m sure it’s going to run. 1 Quote Link to comment
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