My 1971 521

[mainer311]

Just make your own black ones. They get dirty over time anyway, and black won’t show it.

[mrbigtanker]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

What Ray?

 

There is NGK red wires but I couldn't find for anything but single leads for motorcycles. Pricy too. I was thinking maybe you could but this red cable by the foot and make your own. As red is pretty much non existent these would be super different.

Ill take red but not blue, I hate blue. lol  And never seen the yet.

[mrbigtanker]

What I do is complicate my life with crank trigger. I have issues.

[mrbigtanker]

Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr

 

And why I need this for the bluebird I have no idea.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I put anti seize on my intake bolts and studs.

 

Torq? Tight plus a little is what I do.

bolt going in to aluminum always be careful. Its not a Iron V8 from back in the day. All new cars are aluminum now. pull the threads over time then the bolts will work themselves loose

[d.p]

So I got a new thermostat housing and it has 2 threaded holes, one for the temp sensor but not sure what the other is for?   The one on my L16 only has the single threaded hole.  What is it for and do I need it?  I think someone told me it was for a water bypass? 

 

Looks like this:

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

the bypass hose that goesto the intake manifold to warm  it up.

Since you got sidedafts you need to plug this up.

I told you they made one with not that hole. so you can try to a find a plug.

 

the temp hole I would get a new hex nut and temp sender from Nissan.  Don't over torq this as those housing will crack

[d.p]

32 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

the bypass hose that goesto the intake manifold to warm  it up.

Since you got sidedafts you need to plug this up.

I told you they made one with not that hole. so you can try to a find a plug.

 

the temp hole I would get a new hex nut and temp sender from Nissan.  Don't over torq this as those housing will crack

 

I can get the one hole housing if it makes it easier and I was told that bypass hole is 1/8" BSPT so I can plug it as well.   

 

Already have a new hex + temp sender installed.  

Also I bought a 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT in the hopes of running an oil pressure gauge but it does not thread into my block.  The PO already had a mechanical oil pressure gauge installed and used one these double sided adapters in the picture below.  But the 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT won't thread at all so does anyone know what is the oil pressure switch hole in the block?  I thought it was 1/8" BSPT?   But it appears mine is 1/8" NPT/  

 

 

I need to figure out what I am going to do about a throttle cable and the mikunis. 

 

Engine came with this one which attaches to the top of the carb:

 

 

But I got this one from Taka ($$$) that attaches to the throttle linkage but requires a little more work to make fit. 

 

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

 

Temperature sender at front and by pass on side. The by pass should be kept if you have the fitting on the lower rad hose inlet to the water pump. The one with the small gear clamp below...

 

 

If you have this fitting connect to the thermostat housing by pass. Usually it's a metal pipe up and across the front of engine with hoses at each end.

 

Looks like you have it in this picture...

 

The by pass forces warmed coolant past the thermostat removing the stagnant cold water and right back into the engine rather than into the rad. This way the thermostat reacts and opens faster on initial warm up. I would definitely try to get this back to working and it speeds up the warm up..

[d.p]

Ahh shit thanks @datzenmike I guess I need to get 1/4" BSPT water nipple then?  Assuming that is the tread/size on the thermostat housing? 

Edited January 19, 2021 by d.p

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

22 hours ago, mainer311 said:

In an aluminum thread, I probably would just leave them dry. Hopefully your head looks better than mine in that department. I had to helicoil all of them.

 

Don’t you have that L series bible? All the torque specs are in the appendix.

Studs can take more torque than bolts. I usually torque 8x1.25 nuts (on studs) to 25 ft/lb.

22 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

On my exhaust manifold studs I used red lock tight as I hate it when the exhaust manifold studs work loose.

Yes, red loctite. It lubricates when it is wet, but then holds after it hardens.

[d.p]

@datzenmike Do you know what size hose I should run between the thermostat and water inlet?  That would then tell me what size barb fitting I need to buy. 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

The small gear clamp on the water inlet?????????that goes to the Bypass and intake on a stock manifold.

Since you running Mikunis  I would just get a pc of tube and put a bolt in the and clamp it.  and not run any tube to the temp housing (this is me) shit there might be a water intlet that don't have that spigot to block off.

 

the throttle cable will be EZ enough to figure out

Edited January 19, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

3 hours ago, d.p said:

@datzenmike Do you know what size hose I should run between the thermostat and water inlet?  That would then tell me what size barb fitting I need to buy. 

 

 

 

 I guarantee it's larger at the bottom than the top. It's just the way it is.

[d.p]

16 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

The small gear clamp on the water inlet?????????that goes to the Bypass and intake on a stock manifold.

Since you running Mikunis  I would just get a pc of tube and put a bolt in the and clamp it.  and not run any tube to the temp housing (this is me) shit there might be a water intlet that don't have that spigot to block off.

 

the throttle cable will be EZ enough to figure out

 

Ok so just block off the second threaded hole on the thermostat housing and clamp off the outlet on the water inlet?  I don't need to connect those two together? 

[datzenmike]

You can seal them but drill a hole in the thermostat so water will circulate past it for the reasons given previously. Connected together is a better set up as the by pass water as it warms goes right back into the block instead out out the top hose and displacing cold water from the cold rad into the cold engine. The warm up is faster when connected.

[mainer311]

Get a water inlet pipe from a Z. It doesn’t have that 3rd nipple on it. $20

 

http://datnissparts.com/lower-water-inlet-neck-on-front-cover-70-74-5-datsun-240z-260z-s30-l24-l26-13049-p0300/

[d.p]

1 minute ago, mainer311 said:

Get a water inlet pipe from a Z. It doesn’t have that 3rd nipple on it. $20

 

http://datnissparts.com/lower-water-inlet-neck-on-front-cover-70-74-5-datsun-240z-260z-s30-l24-l26-13049-p0300/

 

Even so I still need to plug the hole on the t-stat housing.    Guess just need to decide if its worth it making that connection or buying new t-stat single threaded housing and or a new water inlet.  

[datzenmike]

It will work either way I prefer what the engine came with. I guess it might come down to what's easier.

[mainer311]

I bought the one above, plus the single outlet lower t-stat housing. Less shit to leak. Riley has them both and they’re cheap.

[d.p]

Just now, mainer311 said:

I bought the one above, plus the single outlet lower t-stat housing. Less shit to leak. Riley has them both and they’re cheap.

 

aight.  Off to Riley I go.  

[Charlie69]

4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Studs can take more torque than bolts. I usually torque 8x1.25 nuts (on studs) to 25 ft/lb.

Yes, red loctite. It lubricates when it is wet, but then holds after it hardens.

On the studs onlythat go into the aluminum head. On the stud nuts I use the blue Coctite and also on the bolts that goe into the head I use the blue Loctite.  The reason for this is the studs should stay with the head when removing the nuts.  The red Loctite requires "300 degrees" to loosen.

[datzenmike]

I worry about getting them out if one breaks. On the outside of the exhaust stud threads, definitely anti seize.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Really guys, red loctite is not as permanent as they make us think. I haven't purchased a bottle of blue loctite in decades. Red goes on everything I need it for.

[mainer311]

We use all types at work. If you buy blue loctite, make sure to get 243. It's way better than the 242. Red loctite 271 is legit. We've done breakaway tests with it on custom threads, and it surpasses all others. We use their green retaining compound as well. We even use the purple on really small screws. They all come undone with enough heat.

Edited January 20, 2021 by mainer311