My 1971 521

[banzai510(hainz)]

2 hours ago, d.p said:

 

Who the fuck knows but I had my other cover powder coated nd its been fine for 4+ years.  At the end of the day powder coat on the valve cover is the least of my worries.  Long behind is my trans any good?  Did I put the engine together right?  Will I be able to get the dual mikunis tuned correctly?  Is my steering box going to leak?  What about the rear main will that leak?  Is the throwout collar the right one?  

Like I said I would have just put the motor in and not touch anything else. BAM  done!!

[d.p]

Got the column installed and then when I checked the clutch it was super stiff so I started fucking around with it and not sure it’s right.  
 

I installed the driveshaft and when not I gear it spins freely and when in gear it doesn’t (expected).   But with the truck on jackstands and in gear I can spin the rear wheels. I thought for sure if it was in gear the rear wheels wouldn’t move.  Ah shit maybe they were turning in opposite directions but I didn't pay enough attention to notice.  
 

Can someone tell me how am I supposed to adjust the slave?  Like if I turn it so the fork moves towards the rear what am I changing?  How much distance the collar has between the pp? And is there some other to test the clutch without it running? 
 

 

Edited January 16, 2021 by d.p

[datzenmike]

51 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

I installed the driveshaft and when not I gear it spins freely and when in gear it doesn’t (expected).   But with the truck on jackstands and in gear I can spin the rear wheels. I thought for sure if it was in gear the rear wheels wouldn’t move.  Ah shit maybe they were turning in opposite directions but I didn't pay enough attention to notice. 

 

 

If the engine off. In gear. Clutch up. You should not be able to turn the driveshaft and the rear wheels. This would tell me that your clutch is not disengaging. Back off the adjusting nut and make sure the clutch arm has some play in it. 

 

There is one other possibility but you don't want to think about this yet.

 

 

 

Quote

 

Can someone tell me how am I supposed to adjust the slave?  Like if I turn it so the fork moves towards the rear what am I changing?  How much distance the collar has between the pp? And is there some other to test the clutch without it running? 
 

 

Adjust the nut so that the clutch arm has a slight movement or play in it. Maybe 1/16"

 

[mklotz70]

The adjustment info is in the factory manual which can be downloaded online.  

 

[d.p]

@datzenmike With the truck off the ground and OFF (its not able to run yet) and in gear (clutch UP) the driveshaft DOESN"t turn but I can turn the rear wheels by hand and they spin in opposite directions.  If I take it out of gear then the driveshaft and rear wheels spin freely.  I was just wondering if there was some way to test whether the clutch worked as it should without having it running.  Not trying to put this all back together only to drop the trans but if I have to do that I will.  

 

I will adjust the slave but again I don't know how to tell if its working right or not.  

 

 

[datzenmike]

OK that's normal. An open differential will turn opposite directions if the driveshaft is locked. Well good.

[d.p]

More details.  I put the truck on the ground and put it in gear, it doesn't move.  Leave it in gear and depress the clutch and try to push it and it doesn't move which it should.  Adjusted the slave and was able to really push down on the clutch while the truck is in gear and the truck would roll forward.  Adjusted the slave some more, pushed the clutch in and the spring popped off and I was able to move the truck without any trouble while in gear with the clutch depressed.  

 

So what does that tell me?  Whenever the spring is on its almost impossible to move the truck in gear with the clutch is depressed.  Without the spring it acts like it should (i think).  

[d.p]

quoting wayno so I can find it if i need it:

 

Quote

You have the rod with the nuts, correct?

What you do is to push the rod as far into the slave as it will go(bottomed out), then you pull the fork as far away from the slave as it will go by hand.

Now you adjust the nuts on the rod so that you have about 1/16th of an inch play with the fork as far back as it will go with the slave piston bottomed out, now bleed the system

The reason you do it this way is so the piston in the slave don't get pushed out of the slave and start puking all the fluid out.

You can use a spring if you like, it might stop it from rattling down there if that is an issue, but it does nothing else important, as Nissan deleted the spring, the rod adjustment is the most important, sure having the spring on there might just pull the throw out bearing away from diaphragm fingers, but as long as you have the 1/16th inch play it will not cause damage, as Nissan deleted the spring

 

Edited January 16, 2021 by d.p

[mainer311]

I like running the spring. Not only does it pull the bearing completely off of the pressure plate fingers, it also ensures the piston retracts into the slave cylinder. 
 

Adjust the slave cylinder rod with the spring removed. This lets you check that there is a little bit of play. Once it’s set, throw the spring back on.

[datzenmike]

The spring helps push the slave piston and internal spring to the back of the bore and the fluid back up into the reservoir. Without it the internal spring and some fluid pressure from above it will push the piston and rod out and the release bearing will ride very slightly against the pressure plate diaphragm fingers. Later slaves omitted the internal spring so the external one wasn't needed either. 

[Crashtd420]

I hate to be one to ask, you said you used the throw out bearing collar you had in the 4spd....

Was that the shorter of the 2 collars?

There wasnt much difference in height,  but maybe you need the taller of the 2... 

It just seems wierd your popping the spring off.... whether its needed or not , when installed the spring should not poo off if setup correctly...

Just sounds to me like your having to over compensate with the adjustment...

 

[Charlie69]

Just install an automatic and then all these problems go away!  LOL

[d.p]

I used the 4 speed collar.  But not sure I even understand adjusting it and what the play looks or feels like.   
 

If I move the nut towards the slave the clutch pedal gets very stiff.  If I move it away it gets softer and feels better.  
 

Whether it’s closer or farther from the slave the spring seems to hold it enough that I can’t roll the truck with the clutch depressed. 
 

I read on here that you don’t even need the screw as long as it’s adjusted right.  Also that Datsun did away with the spring in later models. 

[d.p]

And the 4 speed TO collar is the shorter of the two.   Really don’t want to pull this apart to replace so if it’s working now I might call it a day and delete the spring.  
 

Edited January 16, 2021 by d.p

[datzenmike]

 

If the nut is moved away from the clutch arm (towards the slave) it should be looser. It should be free to move back and forth on the threaded push rod.

 

 

 

What clutch did you eventually go with? The collar is matched to the pressure plate. If you kept the 4 speed clutch or replaced it with the Roadster clutch, you need the original 4 speed collar that was with it.

[d.p]

Roadster clutch.  So looking at this morning without the spring the clutch pedal got super stiff overnight (fluid not able to retract?).  so I put the spring on it and it moved(pulled) the fork towards the slave and the clutch pedal returns to normal but I CANT roll the truck with the clutch depressed. 
 

I am so confused. Is that because the collar isn’t getting close enough to the fingers? 

Edited January 16, 2021 by d.p

[datzenmike]

Check the clutch pedal.... push down on it with your thumb. It should move freely about 1/16 to 1/8" before any firm resistance is felt. If you don't have some play here not all the fluid in the slave can get back into the reservoir when the pedal returns. If the master was changed this might be the problem.

 

 

Roadster clutch or an Exedy replacement.... there may be a difference in diaphragm heights and thus a difference in release collar lengths. 

[d.p]

It does move freely a little bit before it gets firm.  But not matter what I do with the spring on the clutch is firm and hard to engage.   Without it its smooth but appears to 'firm up' over time.   I noticed this when I worked on the truck for the first time in  a couple weeks last night and this morning after it sat all night.   

 

Here is what it looks like now in action, is that too much travel?  With it setup like this the clutch pedal is super firm and hard to engage.  

 

 

 

 

Edited January 16, 2021 by d.p

[datzenmike]

Roadster pressure plates are super firm pedal and for competition over comfort and ease of use. You may have to live with it.

 

Slave travel is 1.18" and yours looks ok. Long as the clutch fully engages and disengages call it good.

 

 

 Pump it up several times till it 'firms up' and measure where the slave position is. Then let sit for a day and check again when it's 'smoother'. Is the slave differently positioned after sitting?

[d.p]

Ok. So it’s set and I’ll check it later.  
 

in the meantime does anyone know the size length of the alternator bottom bolt on a L20b?  The mount is different (pass though) then on my l16.  
 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 1/15/2021 at 9:09 AM, d.p said:

 

Who the fuck knows but I had my other cover powder coated nd its been fine for 4+ years.  At the end of the day powder coat on the valve cover is the least of my worries.  Long behind is my trans any good?  Did I put the engine together right?  Will I be able to get the dual mikunis tuned correctly?  Is my steering box going to leak?  What about the rear main will that leak?  Is the throwout collar the right one?  

I was just wondering how the epoxy held up under that heat.

 

Take it easy man.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

35 minutes ago, d.p said:

Ok. So it’s set and I’ll check it later.  
 

in the meantime does anyone know the size length of the alternator bottom bolt on a L20b?  The mount is different (pass though) then on my l16.  
 

 

 

I used to use a leftover short head bolt.

 

And you can't delete the spring on the slave cylinder. It is there for a reason. The early adjustable slaves were not self adjusting and need to be pulled back to the compressed position so the fluid doesn't pack up.

 

If you want to not have to adjust the slave, get a later model self adjusting slave. You can tell the difference by the absense of the hole for the spring.

Edited January 16, 2021 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[d.p]

Haha no harm intended my man.  Sorry if I came across that way. 

[Greaser2]

My pedal was super stiff as well, went from a 11/16 slave to 3/4 and big improvement. Still a bit hard but I have a 280ZX clutch so that’s what I get. 

[d.p]

Yeah I guess I can swap it out later if it becomes an issue but right now I just want to get it running so will leave it.  Got a the starter installed, new 200SX 60AMP alternator, water inlet, fan and some other shit.   Need to put oil in the trans, install exhaust, intake manifold,  downpipe, alternator, order a radiator cap and figure out the throttle for the dual mikunis. 

 

I don't remember where all the wires go for the starter and alternator, can someone refresh my memory? 

 

Starter wires:

 

Alternator wires:

[

 

And can someone tell me how/what to jump off the VR plug for the 200sx atlernator?  This plug is from a dead VR that I have but the wire colors are different than the one I have in there now.