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My 1971 521


d.p

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Top, Yellow/ Black stripe is the oil pressure sender.

 

The Black/Yellow stripe is the starter signal to solenoid

 

The one left over with the round lug..... don't know. What color is the wire?

 

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Black wire with lug grounds to the alternator case. Usually there is a bolt for this

 

Plastic plug is self explanatory.

 

White/Red stripe is the power out and goes to an insulated stud on back of alternator.

 

 

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The color wires for the 510 are... .

Black

White/Black

Yellow

White

White/Blue

White/Red

 

Sometimes the white ages to a tan or yelowish brown.

 

Use that plug and join the White/Blue Black and White/Red together. Now join the solid White to the solid Yellow. Pull any left over wires out so they never cause any problems. Plug into harness and done. Always solder and tape carefully or remember to slide some heat shrink tubing on and look professional.

 

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Got the switch done.  Now I need to extend the reverse light wires as they won’t reach then new 5 speed.  Would really like to delete the unused trans wires but not sure I have enough motivation to pull all those looms apart to remove them. 

 

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11 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Reverse lights switch on the 4 speed is in the tail. The 71B reverse switch is at the front behind the clutch fork.... it should reach easily.


Even so wires aren’t close at all. The harness wires are all loomed up and I got no interest in cutting it open. 
 

also the new reverse switch in bought is garbage.  Basically fell apart in my hand.  Was NOS too.  

 

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Mike, you always say that, but that doesn't mean it's true.  I have boxes of NOS parts...

d.p. if the wires aren't long enough, probably the cleanest thing would be to buy matching bullet connectors and just make some extension pigtails.  Unused wires I would use adhesive heatshrink to seal the ends and then loop them back onto the harness with some larger heatshrink.

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And yes mike it comes from the engine side but it’s wrapped in a loom with a bunch of other wires that run the length of the truck. Those harness wires come off the frame way past the switch on the 280zx trans.  So you have to make the wires longer or cut open the loom and pull the reverse wires out.  

Edited by d.p
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New Old Stock or New Obsolete Stock..... original part never sold (although if sold and in original package unopened just barely under the wire) This does not include counterfeit packaging around re-popped parts. Nor parts made from original tooling that there is no Nissan quality oversight on. Nor a cleaned up used wrecker part with new wrapper. If it's a '71 510 wiper motor it's going to be at least 50 years old. If you bought them from a dealer probably, I won't say not. Anything else is just say so. Lots of people have no idea what JDM and NOS really means they just throw it into for sale ads. Carpe Diem... let the buyer beware

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1 minute ago, d.p said:

And yes mike it comes from the engine side but it’s wrapped in a loom with a bunch of other wires that run the length of the truck. Those harness wires come off the frame way past the switch on the 280zx trans.  So you have to make the wires longer or cut open the loom and pull the reverse wires out.  

 

Didn't know but makes sense seeing as where the fuse box location is. My 710 transmission switch wires pass over the starter on their way. Well good to know.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

New Old Stock or New Obsolete Stock..... original part never sold (although if sold and in original package unopened just barely under the wire) This does not include counterfeit packaging around re-popped parts. Nor parts made from original tooling that there is no Nissan quality oversight on. Nor a cleaned up used wrecker part with new wrapper. If it's a '71 510 wiper motor it's going to be at least 50 years old. If you bought them from a dealer probably, I won't say not. Anything else is just say so. Lots of people have no idea what JDM and NOS really means they just throw it into for sale ads. Carpe Diem... let the buyer beware

Caveat emptor? 😬

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What I find is that it's the same anywhere in Canada and no vile surprises when traveling and you just got to have that coffee taste.. I absolutely refuse to drink burnt acid Starbucks over the top priced fashion accessory coffees. McDees isn't bad now but used to be terrible. Changed in late '90s???

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6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

There's no such thing as NOS. It's a myth.

 

Doesn't the wire harness for the transmission come from the engine bay???

I have been buying OEM NOS parts since the seventies.  I recently sold my last OEM/NOS speedometer in the original box would you like to see pictures?

 

I have several OEM/NOS parts left.  I bought out all the 520/521 & 320 truck parts from ABC Datsun/Nissan in the 90s.  I buy OEM/NOS parts when I can find them.  Maybe in Canada there is no such thing but here in the USA and other countries OEM/NOS parts do exist.

 

I sold a OEM/NOS 520/521 windshield to Chris for his wife's 521 so they could get it out of the garage.  This still had the plastic and the Nissan part # on it from ABC Nissan.  This was a few years ago.

Edited by Charlie69
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7 hours ago, datzenmike said:

New Old Stock or New Obsolete Stock..... original part never sold (although if sold and in original package unopened just barely under the wire) This does not include counterfeit packaging around re-popped parts. Nor parts made from original tooling that there is no Nissan quality oversight on. Nor a cleaned up used wrecker part with new wrapper. If it's a '71 510 wiper motor it's going to be at least 50 years old. If you bought them from a dealer probably, I won't say not. Anything else is just say so. Lots of people have no idea what JDM and NOS really means they just throw it into for sale ads. Carpe Diem... let the buyer beware

 

I guess I'll throw this and more in the trash, then...

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Like I said use the 4seped T/O bearing and collar.

Its a 600kg clutch it should be stiff.

 

the farther you move the clutch fork towards the rea the more your pushing on the clutch fingers.

 

You want the clutch fork to go forward when released. then you adjust the ball and nut right up to it for about a 1/16 play.

so when you push the pedal then the fork will go rearward and push on the pressureplate fingers.

 

 

your doing to many thing at once and going to indruduce a proplem . example alternator swap ect….. make sure you don't have a auto choke otherwise battery goes dead

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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