My 1971 521

[thisismatt]

Powder coated exhaust manifold?

[datzenmike]

Hope that was ceramic powder

[mrbigtanker]

Powder coat is not the best idea for Exhaust manifold.. hope you did a ceramic coat. 

[d.p]

Supposed to be high heat powdercoat whatever that means.  

[datzenmike]

Most plastic melt at 450F. Exhaust idles at that. It can go over 1,000F but rarely the manifold gets that hot.

 

Skip to 1:28

 

[mrbigtanker]

4 hours ago, d.p said:

Supposed to be high heat powdercoat whatever that means.  

Ok well if that's the case I guess your good then.

[d.p]

Guess I won't know until I run them but I asked the powder coat to be sure.  Last thing I want is that stuff melting all over my freshly done engine bay.  

[d.p]

Guy said it cures at 450 for 20-25 minutes then good to 800-1000 degrees.  

[datzenmike]

There used to be a high temperature paint. It worked because it was so thin and transmitted the heat through and away rather than frying on the bottom layer and flaking off. It still wasn't that great.

[d.p]

14 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

There used to be a high temperature paint. It worked because it was so thin and transmitted the heat through and away rather than frying on the bottom layer and flaking off. It still wasn't that great.

 

This it:  https://www.columbiacoatings.com/H7910002

[datzenmike]

Something like this... https://www.eastwood.com/vht-high-temp-aerosol-flat-black.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4EsN6D7e0H_J0ZYci3hSlq6LZAH5iErRZ9GYQYn-JmSf2gdNL3AZDyYaAsuaEALw_wcB

 

It was for exhaust manifolds and header pipes that actually see heat unlike an engine block. This was from the late 70s so I can't find the exact mane, maybe gone now or replaced with something better.

[d.p]

Got my column put back together and wondering the best way to adjust the pitman arm? Meaning should be just backed off from where it binds or totally loose ? 

[d.p]

And when I say adjust pitman arm I mean this nut and adjuster screw.  

[datzenmike]

Well.... that adjusts the gear lash on the worm gear to sector shaft yes, and the pitman arm bolts to the bottom of it.

[d.p]

Ok so what should it feel like?  Trying to figure how to set it correctly.  Fucker looks brand new. 
 

 

[d.p]

Got my valve cover powder coated but think my engine will look too much like Superman so may just run my black one.  Plus my oil cap doesn’t match and it’s burned form bridging the battery terminals with it.  

[datzenmike]

14 minutes ago, d.p said:

Ok so what should it feel like?  Trying to figure how to set it correctly.  Fucker looks brand new. 
 

 

 

 

I have a '73 620 FSM. The 521 and 620 are very similar. It says to set the steering in the middle position. I think that would be with the pitman arm facing to the rear? With a dial gauge against the side at the far end of the pitman arm, adjust the screw with the lock nut so that there is 0.1mm or 0.004" of wiggle play. Now turn adjuster screw 1/8 to 1/16" clockwise, which I think loosens it slightly to the proper play, and tighten the locking nut.

[mainer311]

The steering box wears the most in the middle of the worm, since that is where the steering is most of the time. You may find that if you get it adjusted properly in the center, that it might start to bind up when you get to the lock positions. Once you get it set, make sure you have full lock-lock motion.

[d.p]

34 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

The steering box wears the most in the middle of the worm, since that is where the steering is most of the time. You may find that if you get it adjusted properly in the center, that it might start to bind up when you get to the lock positions. Once you get it set, make sure you have full lock-lock motion.

I’ll check it. I scribed the arm and the box to align the arm the same way it was before I took off but for some reason I can’t wrap my head around if it’s right or not. Waiting for the RTV to dry to install it and I will know then.  I do have full lock to lock motion with no binding so I guess I will call it good. 
 

[datzenmike]

I think you'll find that the pitman and the sector shaft have 4 places with missing splines. The arm could go on facing left, right, forwards or to the rear. I don't think it's possible to fuck it up going back on. Oh wait that was the 620, but have a look if you want.

[d.p]

9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I think you'll find that the pitman and the sector shaft have 4 places with missing splines. The arm could go on facing left, right, forwards or to the rear. I don't think it's possible to fuck it up going back on. Oh wait that was the 620, but have a look if you want.

yeah it’s the same on the 521. 

[mrbigtanker]

23 hours ago, d.p said:

Got my valve cover powder coated but think my engine will look too much like Superman so may just run my black one.  Plus my oil cap doesn’t match and it’s burned form bridging the battery terminals with it.  

That looks good. Just needs a black oil cap.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

@d.p- Did you say you you powder coated the valve cover? Did you remove the vent elbow before coating? I'm curious how the epoxy holding the elbow in held up to the 400 degree oven.

[mainer311]

Not only the vent nipple, but the internal baffle is also glued in place. There are tons of valve covers powder coated out there, and I doubt anyone has removed the nipple on them. Interesting question though, since I'd love to re-clock the nipple on my NOS valve cover. 

[d.p]

 

Who the fuck knows but I had my other cover powder coated nd its been fine for 4+ years.  At the end of the day powder coat on the valve cover is the least of my worries.  Long behind is my trans any good?  Did I put the engine together right?  Will I be able to get the dual mikunis tuned correctly?  Is my steering box going to leak?  What about the rear main will that leak?  Is the throwout collar the right one?