thisismatt Posted October 10, 2020 Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 (edited) 18 minutes ago, d.p said: much easier to lift it to the right then try and lift it to the left and get the right wheel above the driveway. Fuck knows why I am even arguing with you about this. Don’t you got more parts to hoard king tut? Honesty, I've run out of parts to buy. Nothing good has come up for a while. Edit: And because it's hilarious Edited October 10, 2020 by thisismatt 8=====D 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted October 10, 2020 Report Share Posted October 10, 2020 On 9/29/2020 at 1:31 PM, mainer311 said: Oh. Well, the tailgate is on chains. Why would you put it all the way down? Easier to load dead things! Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 Got a strange issue as of late, my tach jumps around and the truck seems to misfire under load. Seems like a loose connection but haven't had time to check. But when I do I am wondering if I can do away with the stock coil and use an MSD coil with my el dizzy and lose the ballast resistor? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 (edited) Is it a matchbox or Pertronix? Pertronix needs 3ohms impedance either way. You can run a 1.5ohm coil, but will need a 1.5ohm ballast. Or else you can run a 3.0ohm Pertronix coil by itself and jumper the ballast. If you have a matchbox dizzy, get rid of the ballast! Run a <1.0ohm coil, and run both the "start" and "run" power wires both to the "+" side of the coil. I'm running a 0.70 ohm MSD coil with my matchbox and it runs great. Edited October 27, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 On 9/10/2020 at 4:33 PM, yenpit said: Yes, but I'm pretty sure that the 78-79 510 A10 L20B was a FRONT SUMP oil pan. The oil dipstick was also relocated on the block.........pretty sure to the passenger side front. I've only had one front sump L series pan over the years & there are guys looking for them.......... Goddamn TJ, learned something today. I think the A10 may be the only L 4 cylinder to do this but I checked and yes it does!!! It must clear the alternator somehow. I checked the S10 cars and they have the rear mount. They all have a boss beside the starter that could be drilled out for rear mount. DP when the tach on my 70 Dart started jumping it meant the points needed cleaning/replacing. I've seen this on my EI set up when there was a spark that jumped to ground. The EI uses a 0.75 to 1.0 ohm coil. If the MSD is in that range you're good. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 Matchbox. I have an MSD coil but no idea what ohm it is because I bought a couple years ago. Would have to look. Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 6 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Goddamn TJ, learned something today. I think the A10 may be the only L 4 cylinder to do this but I checked and yes it does!!! It must clear the alternator somehow. I checked the S10 cars and they have the rear mount. They all have a boss beside the starter that could be drilled out for rear mount. Ha, thanks Mike! Yup, I actually sold that L20B front sump pan, but it was a number of years ago. If I recall, the passenger rear dipstick TUBE was still in place in the block, with a cap & of course, it had the added front sump dipstick passenger front. I remember contemplating whether to cap the front tube or remove & press in a "freeze plug" or tap & plug.....?? Hell, I must have sold that L20B too, cuz I don't remember running it! And yes, at some point, I remember seeing a "boss" where a rumored dipstick could have been used, but just a "boss"..........no tube, no hole. I think there was even another L20B that had the dipstick DRIVERS side rear.....maybe a commercial application, not automotive.........?? Maybe it was an L16 or L18...........🙄 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 Ahh shit...this is the exact coil that I have: https://www.amazon.com/MSD-8202-Blaster-Hi-Performance-Coil/dp/B000182BDK Looks to be .7 ohms Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 4 minutes ago, d.p said: Matchbox. I have an MSD coil but no idea what ohm it is because I bought a couple years ago. Would have to look. If it does not say 'use with ballast only' again you should be ok. 1 minute ago, yenpit said: Ha, thanks Mike! Yup, I actually sold that L20B front sump pan, but it was a number of years ago. If I recall, the passenger rear dipstick TUBE was still in place in the block, with a cap & of course, it had the added front sump dipstick passenger front. I remember contemplating whether to cap the front tube or remove & press in a "freeze plug" or tap & plug.....?? Hell, I must have sold that L20B too, cuz I don't remember running it! And yes, at some point, I remember seeing a "boss" where a rumored dipstick could have been used, but just a "boss"..........no tube, no hole. I think there was even another L20B that had the dipstick DRIVERS side rear.....maybe a commercial application, not automotive.........?? Maybe it was an L16 or L18...........🙄 Must be a JDM application. The Z series are all left rear because the right side is congested with the intake and the left is clear well to the rear of the down pipe. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 1 hour ago, d.p said: Ahh shit...this is the exact coil that I have: https://www.amazon.com/MSD-8202-Blaster-Hi-Performance-Coil/dp/B000182BDK Looks to be .7 ohms That’s the exact same one I have. Run it with no ballast. Gap plugs to .044 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 If you have ANY problems, reduce to 0.042" or even 1.040". While the coil will bridge a 44 gap, the wires may not be up to preventing the spark from 'escaping'. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 (edited) Aight thanks my dudes. ill fuck with it tomorrow. That and try and get these bumper rubbers from Jake installed too. edit: which wires are run and start? Edited October 27, 2020 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 Black/White is run and Black/Red is start. Test lamp lights in the on position..... RUN Test lamp only lights in start................... START (this is a totally separate wire from the start signal to the starter.) 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 (edited) DP, the easiest thing to do is just run a jumper wire across the resistor. You don’t even have to remove it. Here’s mine: -on the “+” side: start, run, and positive wire (red) coming from matchbox -on the “-“ side, negative (black/yellow) wire coming from matchbox, and the tach signal Edited October 28, 2020 by mainer311 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Easier to just move the black wire to the left side terminal. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Ok thanks my dudes. I would prefer to just remove the resistor and be done with it entirely. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 And anyone ever use a harbor freight cherry picker? Good bad ugly? $190 or so isn’t bad and I really want something I can fold up and store. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 In all honesty, it’s probably good enough for whatever you’ll use it for. 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Check out Fbook or Craiglist too- I scored a nice picker and engine stand for $100 bucks around the corner from me when I was in Cali. Worked out perfected--- picked up the KA for the 510 in the morning and grabbed the hoist and stand on my way home. They are big so people want to get ride of them. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 I’ve been checking FB and craigslist but nothings come up as of late. HF one has good reviews and they are close to me. I’ll probably just pick one up. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Does anybody else really make a picker? Get a load leveler too. Also, they have coupons pretty often that bring the picker down to more like $150 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Just swing by Cali on your way home from work and grab this dealio 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Yeah I see those coupons and have 3 of their jacks already. 1 that must be 20 years old and holding strong (mostly). Lots of cherry pickers but none really that cheap. I read that leveler makes it so the picker has to go higher and I got limited ceiling height. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 (edited) HF one is a gray Pittsburgh IIRC. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html Edited October 28, 2020 by d.p Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 They're all the same made by slave labor in China, HF stuff all used to be orange, so just get whatever's cheapest and holds hydraulics. Yes, the leveler adds to the chain length. You can get away without it of course. Quote Link to comment
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