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My 1971 521


d.p

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I got one of the levelers... but it ended up being more work then it was worth... at least for me. It was easier to just move things around by the tail end of the trans. Leveler also didnt let me get the angle steep enough to drop the combo in.  It does add a good 10+" to the height you need to raise it as well so if you have a tight spot it will be tough.

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8 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Sounds like work to me, must be time to sell it.  You will stay cleaner.  LOL


LOL don’t think for a second that the thought hadn’t crossed my mind.  
 

At this point I have everything to swap the drivetrain out and it would be idiotic for me to not do it.  Plus I would regret selling it before I dropped the built L20, dual mikunis and 5 speed in.  All that work and money would be for not. 
 

it’s a love hate relationship with this truck and my biggest complaint is the 4 speed.  So hoping a new power plant will solve that as well as give it some get up and go.  
 

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Oh and I pulled my plugs and they are WHITE whereas before they were much darker.  What would cause this fucker to run lean?  I mean I haven’t touched the timing or lash for a while.  Loose dizzy?  Carb needs adjusting?  

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I am running a matchbox on my L16 that is currently in the truck with plans to run the same matchbox on the L20b when I drop it in.  

 

On to my original question and replacing my coil and ditching the resistor.

 

50540633016_bf32d14a7a_c.jpg

 

50539910203_625e1e6cc0_c.jpg

 

Black (negative) from matchbox and green (tach) to NEGATIVE post on COIL:

Red (positive) from matchbox, black/red (START) and black/white (RUN) to POSITIVE post on COIL:

 

What are the green/yellow + black/yellow wires in the bottom left corner of the second picture?  Those wires run back towards the firewall. 

 

Someone set me straight.  

 

Edited by d.p
I am stupid
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It will work but it's incorrect. Positive, run, start and red to matchbox goes to + side of coil. Negative from matchbox goes to - side of coil.

 

Like I said it will run but the spark is jumping from the ground to the center electrode on the plugs instead of the other way to ground.

 

 

Ex79Rqt.jpg

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6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It will work but it's incorrect. Positive, run, start and red to matchbox goes to + side of coil. Negative from matchbox goes to - side of coil.

 

Like I said it will run but the spark is jumping from the ground to the center electrode on the plugs instead of the other way to ground.

 

 

Ex79Rqt.jpg

 

Positive, run, start and red to matchbox?  Are you saying there are 4 wires that need to go to the + side of the coil?   What the fuck is 'positive?' Positive from the matchbox is the RED wire in my pic above.  And again what is the green/yellow + black/white/yellow wires on the second pic?  They were attached to my coil prior.  

 

Quoting Mainers post as well to set my mind straight.   You are saying the same thing but you have one more wire than him.  

Here’s mine:

-on the “+” side: start, run, and positive wire (red) coming from matchbox

-on the “-“ side, negative (black/yellow) wire coming from matchbox, and the tach signal

 

Edited by d.p
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48 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Sorry haven't had all my coffee. RUN and START from ignition and the RED (C) from the matchbox to the POSITIVE side of coil. Like the picture. Black (B terminal) of matchbox to NEGATIVE of coil.

 

That's exactly what I said. 

 

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45 minutes ago, d.p said:

Ok thanks, so just green/yellow + black/whatever wires I can just tie out of the way?  

 

If I remember right, one of them has to do with the second set of retarded points on the original dizzy. I unwrapped my original wire harness until I could pull those wires out, and then rewrapped it. 

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Black with yellow stripe: primary points to negative side of coil

 

Blue with yellow stripe: secondary (retarded) points to negative side of coil

 

I reused the black/yellow wire, and removed the blue/yellow from the harness. If you look at my picture on the previous page, you'll see my black/yellow wire still there. I cut the connector off the end and put a female spade connector on it.

 

We have that really nice wiring schematic available to us, but unfortunately it doesn't show any of the "extra" smog stuff on it. 

Edited by mainer311
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Just now, mainer311 said:

It looks like the black with yellow stripe wire is the original wire that goes from points ground to the coil negative. I reused it to attach the matchbox to the coil. It looks like you added a black wire in it's place, so it's likely not even hooked up on either end on your truck. 

 

The blue wire with yellow stripe was for the second set of points.

 

Yeah from the matchbox is just ground, POSITVE and NEGATIVE IIRC.  That black/yellow wire was connected to the resistor before I took it out.  

 

50541061222_dd7301211e_c.jpg

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8 minutes ago, d.p said:

Where did you get those metal tabs that go over the posts on the coil and allow you to use spade connectors? 

 

They came with the coil. 

 

Digikey has them. 

 

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/140814-1/2307549

Edited by mainer311
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8 minutes ago, d.p said:

Where did you get those metal tabs that go over the posts on the coil and allow you to use spade connectors? 

 

d.p I have collected those flat spade coil terminals off of old junk coils for years.....you can also pull them off of British MG Triumph etc if any of those around or a local shop that works on them.  Bet most 70's - 80's Japanese cars will have something similar...............??  Happy to send you two if you need 😁

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I scavenged some of the unused points wires and am all set.  New plugs gapped to .42 or so and she fired right up. 

 

Not the prettiest (will clean it up):

50541974657_a26dc2e4a8_c.jpg

 

And you think this enough height/room to pull an engine and trans?  

50541974607_49a4d3db7d_c.jpg

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