d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Power comes off switched ignition on the fuse box and ground is on the body behind one of the brake line clamp/holders. None of that changed as of late so something else must have. I threw a multimeter on it (red wire > green wire going to coil and black wire to ground) and it read the same (around 9-10 volts IF I had it set right) regardless if the lights were on or not. I can move the power from the fuse box directly to the battery to see if that fixes it but I read somewhere that is less than ideal? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Is this with the truck study sitting there? 9 to 10 volts is low... What does it test at the battery? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Also it was ment as a temporary test not to be left that way.. Just to see if it was the power feed or not..... I'd try a better ground spot first though.... 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) DP I have dome 3 motor pulls and n 2nd Trans already. 54yrs old Im done crawling around.I got a 92 Toyota with 77k Miles for 1500. If I daily drive that the 521 will surely last 10more years, If a daily the 521 I think maybe another 3-5 on motor trans not counting the other stuff that may go bad. Kingpins again diff ect…. the tach maybe a dirty ground, try with just the parking lights on and see if still does that. If anyhting I woud think it would be the opposite ,works better with lights OFF where you get the positive from?????? 9-10volts is not correct. should be what the battery is and when running slightly higher 13/14volts a lot of people just do the +12volts at the blk/white wire that when to the +side ballast resisitor as the switchable 12volts for the Tach. Edited October 30, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) I cleaned the ground and re-crimped it to no avail. Will try moving the power from the fuse box to the battery and see if it makes any difference as well as moving my ground. Been using that power and that ground since I installed it and no issues but who the fuck knows what the problem is now. From my tach: red wire to switched ignition on the fuse box green wire to - coil black wire to ground on the firewall white wire to engine bay light That's all 4 wires coming off the TACH. Its more like 11.x volts when testing with my multimeter but still no idea if I am doing it right. k Edited October 30, 2020 by d.p Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 My Bosch tach used to jump around, and now it doesn’t. They’re very susceptible to noise. If you have any radiated emissions from the plug wires or plugs, it will screw with the tach signal. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Just had a thought..... DP check the fuse block voltage before and after the fuses.... Maybe a bad connection there causing a voltage drop.... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Fuck if I know. Tach doesn’t bounce in neutral and only seems to do it under load and in gear moving. If I turn the head lights on it doesn’t jump. seems to only bounce/jump above 2500 RPMS or so. I tired going directly to the battery and it didn’t make any difference. Moved the ground and no difference. What does turning the lights on do except drop the voltage? Which inturn stops the tach from bouncing so too much voltage with the lights off? How do I measure voltage before and after fuses? 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Ok so driving around my little voltage cigarette meter reads 15.x and the tach bounces around. If I turn my headlights on (parking lights made no difference) then the meter drops down to 14.2 or so and the tach is fine. Could too much voltage be causing this? If so my voltage regulator shutting the bed or my alternator? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 15 seems a bit high. Just over 14 is what I'm used to. You really should drive with the headlights on any way. Idiot drivers today expect to see headlights. They don't see any they pull out in front of you. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Measuring the voltage before and after the fuse is exactly how it sounds.. With the fuse still installed Ground the negative from the meter and then check one side of the fuse compared to the opposite side.... you should have the same voltage.... I would check it at the clip that actually holds the fuse not the fuse itself.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 4 minutes ago, d.p said: Could too much voltage be causing this? If so my voltage regulator shutting the bed or my alternator? I would say yes... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) 10 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: I would say yes... Well cracked this mystery. Replaced my “New-Era” regulator with an older 3rd party one I had prior and problem is gone. Volts’s ready right around 14.x driving around an no epileptic tach. so assuming the new-era was shitting the bed. Only reason I changed it out was because I assumed it was better than whatever one I had in there which is now back in. Hehe Edited October 30, 2020 by d.p Fucking datsuns 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) What’s in there now: Edited October 30, 2020 by d.p terrible picture. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Original parts are always better that what you replace them with. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Just now, datzenmike said: Original parts are always better that what you replace them with. What? I replaced the original voltage regulator with the black one that is in there now years ago. Then I saw the new-era one on ebay and replaced the black one with it. Now the new-era one seems to be dying so back to the non-OEM black regulator. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 I was referring to the original Nissan parts quality. Assumed you had a Nissan regulator. But 14v sounds a lot better. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Yes, over 15V is too high. Shouldn't exceed 14.4V 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 Struck out at HF today no hoists in stock at all. Guess the swap will have to wait. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted October 31, 2020 Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 There are other places to buy a hoist from. They even sell Chinese ones! LOL Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 Yeah but HF relatively close and 15% off would have been nice. What other places have them in store? Pep boys? Fuck if I know. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted November 1, 2020 Report Share Posted November 1, 2020 Saw one at O'Reilly's a few days ago but it was like $275. Eff that jazz 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted November 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2020 58 minutes ago, thisismatt said: Saw one at O'Reilly's a few days ago but it was like $275. Eff that jazz Agreed. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 1, 2020 Report Share Posted November 1, 2020 (edited) Any auto parts. Look on line for one with free shipping. Or just rent one. Edited November 1, 2020 by Charlie69 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 2, 2020 Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 DP you shuld have caught this and mentioned this sooner. If that cig light meter read over 15volts its slowly cooking the batter and will ooze out and have that white shit build up. yes most times its the External volt reg that's bad. suppositly one can adjust the mechanical ones but never learn how to do it. the solid state one VR will pop and give a OVer VOLTAGE issue. more like 16/17volts. this one you have is weid as its close 15 being almost good and OK in other vehicles. one way to know if VR is bad is you but on heater and lights and wiper and it still reads over 15volt then call it BAD!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
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