My 1971 521

[thisismatt]

18 minutes ago, d.p said:

much easier to lift it to the right then try and lift it to the left and get the right wheel above the driveway. 
 

Fuck knows why I am even arguing with you about this.  Don’t you got more parts to hoard king tut?

 

Honesty, I've run out of parts to buy. Nothing good has come up for a while.

 

Edit: And because it's hilarious

Edited October 10, 2020 by thisismatt
8=====D

[Charlie69]

On 9/29/2020 at 1:31 PM, mainer311 said:

Oh. Well, the tailgate is on chains. Why would you put it all the way down?

Easier to load dead things!

[d.p]

Got a strange issue as of late, my tach jumps around and the truck seems to misfire under load.   Seems like a loose connection but haven't had time to check.  But when I do I am wondering if I can do away with the stock coil and use an MSD coil with my el dizzy and lose the ballast resistor? 

[mainer311]

Is it a matchbox or Pertronix?

 

Pertronix needs 3ohms impedance either way. You can run a 1.5ohm coil, but will need a 1.5ohm ballast. Or else you can run a 3.0ohm Pertronix coil by itself and jumper the ballast.

 

If you have a matchbox dizzy, get rid of the ballast! Run a <1.0ohm coil, and run both the "start" and "run" power wires both to the "+" side of the coil. I'm running a 0.70 ohm MSD coil with my matchbox and it runs great.

Edited October 27, 2020 by mainer311

[datzenmike]

On 9/10/2020 at 4:33 PM, yenpit said:

 

Yes, but I'm pretty sure that the 78-79 510 A10 L20B was a FRONT SUMP oil pan.  The oil dipstick was also relocated on the block.........pretty sure to the passenger side front.  I've only had one front sump L series pan over the years & there are guys looking for them..........

 

Goddamn TJ, learned something today. I think the A10 may be the only L 4 cylinder to do this but I checked and yes it does!!! It must clear the alternator somehow. I checked the S10 cars and they have the rear mount. They all have a boss beside the starter that could be drilled out for rear mount.

 

 

DP when the tach on my 70 Dart started jumping it meant the points needed cleaning/replacing. I've seen this on my EI set up when there was a spark that jumped to ground.

 

The EI uses a 0.75 to 1.0 ohm coil. If the MSD is in that range you're good.

[d.p]

Matchbox.  I have an MSD coil but no idea what ohm it is because I bought a couple years ago.  Would have to look. 

[yenpit]

6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Goddamn TJ, learned something today. I think the A10 may be the only L 4 cylinder to do this but I checked and yes it does!!! It must clear the alternator somehow. I checked the S10 cars and they have the rear mount. They all have a boss beside the starter that could be drilled out for rear mount.

 

 

 

Ha, thanks Mike!  Yup, I actually sold that L20B front sump pan, but it was a number of years ago.  If I recall, the passenger rear dipstick TUBE was still in place in the block, with a cap & of course, it had the added front sump dipstick passenger front.  I remember contemplating whether to cap the front tube or remove & press in a "freeze plug" or tap & plug.....??  Hell, I must have sold that L20B too, cuz I don't remember running it!

 

And yes, at some point, I remember seeing a "boss" where a rumored dipstick could have been used, but just a "boss"..........no tube, no hole.  

 

I think there was even another L20B that had the dipstick DRIVERS side rear.....maybe a commercial application, not automotive.........??  Maybe it was an L16 or L18...........🙄

[d.p]

Ahh shit...this is the exact coil that I have:  https://www.amazon.com/MSD-8202-Blaster-Hi-Performance-Coil/dp/B000182BDK

 

Looks to be .7 ohms

[datzenmike]

4 minutes ago, d.p said:

Matchbox.  I have an MSD coil but no idea what ohm it is because I bought a couple years ago.  Would have to look. 

 

If it does not say 'use with ballast only' again you should be ok.

 

 

1 minute ago, yenpit said:

 

Ha, thanks Mike!  Yup, I actually sold that L20B front sump pan, but it was a number of years ago.  If I recall, the passenger rear dipstick TUBE was still in place in the block, with a cap & of course, it had the added front sump dipstick passenger front.  I remember contemplating whether to cap the front tube or remove & press in a "freeze plug" or tap & plug.....??  Hell, I must have sold that L20B too, cuz I don't remember running it!

 

And yes, at some point, I remember seeing a "boss" where a rumored dipstick could have been used, but just a "boss"..........no tube, no hole.  

 

I think there was even another L20B that had the dipstick DRIVERS side rear.....maybe a commercial application, not automotive.........??  Maybe it was an L16 or L18...........🙄

 

 

Must be a JDM application. The Z series are all left rear because the right side is congested with the intake and the left is clear well to the rear of the down pipe.

[mainer311]

1 hour ago, d.p said:

Ahh shit...this is the exact coil that I have:  https://www.amazon.com/MSD-8202-Blaster-Hi-Performance-Coil/dp/B000182BDK

 

Looks to be .7 ohms

That’s the exact same one I have. Run it with no ballast. Gap plugs to .044

[datzenmike]

If you have ANY problems, reduce to 0.042" or even 1.040". While the coil will bridge a 44 gap, the wires may not be up to preventing the spark from 'escaping'.

[d.p]

Aight thanks my dudes.   ill fuck with it tomorrow.  That and try and get these bumper rubbers from Jake installed too. 
 

edit: which wires are run and start? 

Edited October 27, 2020 by d.p

[datzenmike]

Black/White is run and Black/Red is start.

 

Test lamp lights in the on position..... RUN

Test lamp only lights in start................... START (this is a totally separate wire from the start signal to the starter.)

[mainer311]

DP, the easiest thing to do is just run a jumper wire across the resistor. You don’t even have to remove it.

 

Here’s mine:

-on the “+” side: start, run, and positive wire (red) coming from matchbox

-on the “-“ side, negative (black/yellow) wire coming from matchbox, and the tach signal

 

Edited October 28, 2020 by mainer311

[datzenmike]

 

 

Easier to just move the black wire to the left side terminal.

[d.p]

Ok thanks my dudes.  I would prefer to just remove the resistor and be done with it entirely.  
 

 

[d.p]

And anyone ever use a harbor freight cherry picker? Good bad ugly?  $190 or so isn’t bad and I really want something I can fold up and store.  

[mainer311]

In all honesty, it’s probably good enough for whatever you’ll use it for.

[demo243]

Check out Fbook or Craiglist too- I scored a nice picker and engine stand for $100 bucks around the corner from me when I was in Cali. Worked out perfected--- picked up the KA for the 510 in the morning and grabbed the hoist and stand on my way home. They are big so people want to get ride of them.

[d.p]

I’ve been checking FB and craigslist but nothings come up as of late.  HF one has good reviews and they are close to me.  I’ll probably just pick one up.  

[thisismatt]

Does anybody else really make a picker?  Get a load leveler too.  Also, they have coupons pretty often that bring the picker down to more like $150

[thisismatt]

Just swing by Cali on your way home from work and grab this dealio

 

 

[d.p]

Yeah I see those coupons and have 3 of their jacks already. 1 that must be 20 years old and holding strong (mostly).  

 

Lots of cherry pickers but none really that cheap.  I read that leveler makes it so the picker has to go higher and I got limited ceiling height.  
 

 

[d.p]

HF one is a gray Pittsburgh IIRC. 
 

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html

Edited October 28, 2020 by d.p

[thisismatt]

They're all the same made by slave labor in China, HF stuff all used to be orange, so just get whatever's cheapest and holds hydraulics.

 

Yes, the leveler adds to the chain length.  You can get away without it of course.