demo243 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Might help if you turn the truck around so you can pull the hoist with the engine out enough— or you can push the truck half out the garage to do that 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 (edited) Thought about that but then garage door chain/tray would reduce the amount of headroom. Oh and my driveway is gravel and so a hoist isn't moving over that shit. lol Edited October 28, 2020 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 9 minutes ago, d.p said: Thought about that but then garage door chain/tray would reduce the amount of headroom. Oh and my driveway is gravel and so a hoist isn't moving over that shit. lol Just push the truck half out the garage then - achieves the same result of giving you space to pull the hoist back 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 use the other side of garage and turn truck at angle then get hoise in out ezer pull hood off!!!!!!!! jack up truck get stands in correct spot so hoise goes in with space to pull IN/OUT jack up the trans, if leaving trans in truck. If pulling both you need LOTS of room. and plug the trans shaft so oil don't leak out everywhere(spare cut drive line is how i did mine) what I did: push truck out slightly then close garage down down on bed then run a force air diesel heater to warm garage and have room to work 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 I could back it out halfway but I have carriage doors so I can’t close them on the truck. All new driveline so engine + trans needs to come out but if it’s easier for me to pull that trans first I can do that. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 I never pulled out a 521 trans by its self. torsion bars ect I did a whole pull with motor and trans and had 2 other people helping me. I have done motor pulls myself. Be honest just swap the motor and be done with this. DONTt pull the trans. Otherwise your truck is going to be done awhile. and its such a nice truck that should driven. Just my opinion 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Well its going to happen regardless and I don't drive it all over the winter so not a big deal if its down for a while. And I could pull the torsion bars to make it easier right? I mean if I have to drop the trans because I don't have room then I will do that. If its harder that way then so be it. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 I had to pull my passenger side torsion bar to get my transmission back in, but I did manage to get it out somehow with both of them in. I suppose gravity was helping a bit. Datsun roadsters are such that the whole thing has to come out the top. I pulled my engine out with a chainfall strapped to a beam in my parent's barn. If I can do it like that, you can probably pull the whole thing with a cherry picker out the top. Have someone push down on the transmission to angle it out. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 pull the motor and trans would be best together. make sure nothing above can get in way as your going to lift the motor out and trans so the hoist will go high. I would ask another 521 owner on this one. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Why not pull the motor first seperately then the transmission..... Then the reverse put the transmission in first , dont mount it just get it under the truck, then drop the motor in and slide transmission forward bolt it down and your good.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 19 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Why not pull the motor first seperately then the transmission..... Then the reverse put the transmission in first , dont mount it just get it under the truck, then drop the motor in and slide transmission forward bolt it down and your good.... That is what I was thinking but everyone making it seem like that is a huge pain in the ass to do it that way. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Just now, d.p said: That is what I was thinking but everyone making it seem like that is a huge pain in the ass to do it that way. Its probably the easier way if you are doing it by yourself..... Do what ever is easiest for you..... You can always try with them bolted together.... if that doesnt work then do as I said.... 1 Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 4 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: If pulling both you need LOTS of room. and plug the trans shaft so oil don't leak out everywhere(spare cut drive line is how i did mine) I keep at least one driveshaft front yoke around to use as a plug in back of trans for when pulling out! 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 27 minutes ago, yenpit said: I keep at least one driveshaft front yoke around to use as a plug in back of trans for when pulling out! I like to drain them , makes it a little lighter too... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 I have never removed a torsion bar to change out a transmission, and I changed out a lot of transmissions in that work truck. I did have to remove the clutch cover to get them POS dogleg transmissions out and back in, that was better than dealing with the torsion bars, but I always removed that tunnel plate. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Hmmm. Maybe time to buy a welder. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Hell yeah thanks Matt. After replacing the coil, deleting the resistor, cleaning up the wiring and new plugs gapped at .042” my tach is still jumping all over the place at higher RPMS (3-4k). Doesn’t seem to be missing as much as before so I checked the timing and it’s spot on. Maybe the tach is shitting the bed or something else entirely. not even sure it’s worth troubleshooting anymore if I am going to pull the engine. Still not sure whether I should swap the entire drivetrain or just the trans or the engine. Part of me just wants to do the trans as it’s my biggest complaint and less of things to worry about if I swapped everything out. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 11 minutes ago, d.p said: biggest complaint and less of things to worry about don't do anything and your fine as its running good. you it as a local truck for around town. This is just me here ,there are others that are better with these 521s as really I hate them compared to a 510 which is EZer to work on. Ezest is to put the l20 in and be done with this. lkeave the stock trans in. Why worry about the tach. I never had one in 4 datsuns and I was fine. Doont introduce another proplem right now. swapping ignitions. Now this L20 will make it pull harder. but really they don't rev really higher as its a longer rod motor and the 521 has a low gear ratio. meaning its still going to rev the shit out of the motor going 65mph with a Weber DGV carb. Youill pull more up to a certain point but that's it. To get the most youll put the 5 speed in and get better mileage and cruise better on freeway. and with the sidedrafts you have its going to hail ass.and be quick as the low gear ratio. will wak up those carbs in the higher rpm range!!!!!!!! However you never done this before and its going to be a 40 page thread YouLL need help. the FRUSTRATUION LEVEL will be maxed out with you. If I had to do this myself and only me I would bust it into 2 sections(as mentioned) pull the motor then pull the trans thru the motor bay then out the front on the ground. I don't want to fuck with torsion bar and religning them up ect. 2 jacks. 2x4s ect ready to go. also I always remove the alternator and water pump to get more room to work on stuff. jack up the trans right before pulling the motor up and I use a angle adapter on the chain to angle the front up and out. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 At least a 40 page thread will keep everyone engaged during these trying times. Plus I post a ton of pictures so that’s got to count for something. Hell you posted a 5-6 paragraph replies on what I should do and I haven’t even started yet. And it doesn’t really matter if it frustrates me or not because at the end of the day I finish everything I do with this truck by myself with help from the dudes on this forum. like I said before I am going to get a picker and go from there. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) Personally If I have to do a trans swap again Im getting rid of my 521 for cheap. Edited October 30, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Just now, banzai510(hainz) said: Personally If I have to do a trans swap again Im getting rid of my 521 for cheap. Haha that bad ?! 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted October 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 If my headlights are on my tach is fine, headlights off tach jumps all around. What does that point to? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Can't see any direct connection between them except the battery. Any way to check the voltage to see if it's jumping around with the lights off? Maybe a digital meter? rather than a meter with a needle??? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 29 minutes ago, d.p said: If my headlights are on my tach is fine, headlights off tach jumps all around. What does that point to? Where did you get power and ground from to feed the tach.... As Mike said there really isnt a direct connection..... Maybe run 2 wires over to the battery and directly power the tach and see if that works better.... Quote Link to comment
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