Busta Nut Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Got back and put my :poop: in......... Found a grill at Crazy Harold's....... .....ate some grub..... Hung out some moar....... Princess came out..... Only 510 to come by...... ....and time to go...... 5 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Whats the plan for the frame? Wire wheel, ospho, chassis coat? por15? Zero Rust? Rattle can? havent set anything in stone yet ,Still workin within the budget , whatever it is it will happen by the end of next week, i plan to start reassembly by the first week of feb. 1 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 That's all folks...... .........for now.... :sneaky: 7 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Zero rust might be a good option for the frame. It's half the price of por15.. unless someone is donating por15. It can be painted on with a brush, or thinned and sprayed. Comes in a bunch of colors.. blah blah blah. If painted on, it can take a while to dry especially in our lovely climate. 1 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 you did marinade that chicken in beer or a mix of beer and BBQ sauce right? 3 Quote Link to comment
Mattndew76 Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Anyone got a large media hopper (sand blaster) ? I have an empty property lot we can sand blast the frame on if we can get the setup to do it. 4 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 I've got one of these I can send up if nobody has one...... 3 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 I sorta kinda got one of these, mine looks different but same principle. I can hand it off to you at hobos if you make it up Denmarkboy. 3 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 The harbor freight one works pretty good, if you get one get the additional ceramic tipped gun. You need about 10 CFM at 100 # pressure to move the media. Be sure your media is dry. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Since I kinda doubt anyone has the equipment needed to sandblast the frame in any kind of timely manner......I think I'd start with Purple Power and a decent pressure washer. With the heavy stuff off, I think a bit of clean up with a wire brush and then rattle can it with the cheapest flat black paint you can find. This truck is already 40+ years old and the rust isn't that significant. No matter what finish you put on the frame, it will chip/wear/rust again. The the rattle can, the next owner can easily touch it up when needed. Once a layer of rust if formed, it acts as a protective layer against more severe rust. Trying to completely eliminate it and prevent it is....for the most part.....cosmetic. I say clean it and make it black to look nice and call it good. Sandblasting, POR15, powdercoating.........all more time consuming and costly with an extremely low return on investment. How much time does anyone spend working on their frames? Nearly zero. You spend time on drive train, brakes, etc. Extremely doubtful the next owner is going to spend any time at all on the frame......but they will, at some point, want to replace brake shoes in the rear......better to spend the time cleaning/painting those kind of items. My 2 cents, but the frame off is already way above and beyond, in my opinion. This truck is going to be driven. Hopefully, it will last another 40 years, but it could get crunched pulling out of Canby. 4 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Unless the cab mounts needed to be replaced, the cab should have been left on. thats my $.02 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 I believe ace makes a good enamel spray paint that is better than the rest in ca, however OR still has all the less restrictive Voc laws, so you might be able to get something better ... If you go that route 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 deleting 1 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 I have to agree with Mr Blue hands , I mainly wanted to take it down to the frame because it's been sitting for 12-14 years.. And all of the rubber lines should be changed along with fuel system . Honestly , painting the frame is more of a hey look factor. This way all the body bolts ,fuel lines, brakes lines , wiring and actual structure of the truck can be documented , cleaned up and ready for the road . . . And hopefully a long life with someone from the Datsun community . 5 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 i have actually worked as a sandblaster, at a foundry. It is a very time intensive job, and you need a BIG air compressor, and an air dryer, for the compressed air. If you decide to sand blast the frame, and completely remove all the rust, and then properly prime,and repaint the frame, the truck might be ready for Canby, 2016. I do agree that pulling the cab, and bed, to change 40 year old fuel lines, and being able to take a close look at brake lines is a good thing. it is a little late to tell people not to remove the cab, after it has been done. On steels, rust does not protect the steel from further rust. Rust is an electrolytic reaction. That means it requires water. Keep steel dry, and it does not rust. It also requires a source of oxygen, usually in the air. But steel will rust, underwater, only slower, because there is less oxygen available. Block a source of oxygen from the steel, and you prevent rust. This is what most paints and primers do. however, if the paint is not bonded to the bare metal, and can separate from the metal, the solid coating can just serve as a barrier to any moisture from evaporating. Another issue is that red rust takes more volume that the metal originally occupied. This is what forms the dimples in sheet steel where spot welds are. The spot weld holds the two sheets together, and the internal rust forces the two sheets apart, creating the low spot at the actual weld. Rusting, or oxidation of metals requires two different metals with different electromotive potentials. The two different metals, in the presence of an electrolyte make a battery. Electrolytes are usually a water based solution, with an acid, or a base, (alkali), or a salt. This is how batteries work. The battery goes dead when the metal the higher electromotive is completely oxidized. Unfortunately, with steel, the unrusted steel has the higher electromotive potential than either form of rusted steel, black rust, or red rust. and both forms of rust are porous, and allow the electrolyte to continue to work on the good metal. Aluminium will form a protective coat to prevent further rusting. So does Chromium, and Cadmium. Not so with steel. Zinc protects steel, because Zinc is a metal that is has a higher electromotive potential than steel. That is why zinc is used in a lot of batteries. When zinc is coated on steel, or in contact with steel, it oxidizes first, protecting the steel. 4 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 DONATED CANBY TRUCK PARTS : DONATED BY : FRONT BRAKES & KING PIN REBUILD........................................mklotz70 SEATS & DOOR CARDS .......................................................ratdat3 PARTS TRANSPORT & LABOR ................................................................. hobospyder TRANSPORTATION ................................................................................... eagle_adam DASH BOARD ..................................................................... ....................... uberkevin IGNITION SYSTEM & SWITCHES ............................................................. charlie69 TRANSPORTATION .................................................................................... fastdadd FRONT TURN LENSES .............................................................................. skyblue POWDER COATING .................................................................................... jrock4224 HOOD AND LABOR ..................................................................................... jester KNOBS & SHIFTER ..................................................................................... mattndew76 521 TRUCK .................................................................................................. datslocos & denmarkboy INFORMATION AND SUPPORT .................................................................. ratsun EVENT & RAFFLE ........................................................................................ datsuns northwest PAYPAL & TOWING ...................................................................................... bowtie towing aka "Evil Santa" BUILD BOARD & GRAPHICS ........................................................................ the graphics shop STREERING WHEEL & WING WINDOWS & HUBS...................................... wayno RATSUN GRILL BADGE & RATSUN SHIFT KNOB ...................................... Dime Dave CRAZY ROAD TRIP TO DONATE LABOR .....................................................Busta Nut LABOR & ROAD TRIP .....................................................................................Farmer CRAZY ROAD TRIP & LABOR ....................................................................... Eastbay521 & copilot LABOR / LUNCH / LIQUIDS ........................................................................... Draker HUB CAP ........................................................................................................ 67_1600 ENGINE REBUILD ......................................................................................... Datsun life PAYPAL DONATIONS CAN BE MADE : Tbowtie@comcast.net please make donations as a gift , to avoid 8% fee per transaction. PAYPAL DONATIONS : ]2eDeYe a6m-zero Justin Berni hobosyder Charlie69 Gradyfest zed 1 Lime D. Zeze THANK YOU TO ALL OF YOU DONATING PARTS AND LABOR . http://www.bluehandsinc.com http://eugenegraphicsshop.com http://www.youtube.com/user/bluehandsvideo. http://datsunsnw.org http://www.md-machinist.com http://www.futofab.com/ https://www.facebook.com/pages/Datsun-Life/939484376066394 PARTS STILL NEEDED FOR THE BUILD 14 inch white wall tires paint labor transportation carpet fuse block labor rubber kit 1 Quote Link to comment
EastBay521 Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Hopefully, it will last another 40 years, but it could get crunched pulling out of Canby. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Hopefully, it will last another 40 years, but it could get crunched pulling out of Canby. don't put that voodoo on my next truck 4 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 I used an 30+ year old rebuilt Speedaire compressor and a Harbor Freight 100 # sand blaster to strip my chassis. I blasted it one afternoon and primed it that evening the next afternoon I painted it black. I used the Ace Hardware brand primer and paint. It covered well and it is real easy to touch up. I am building a daily driver. My chassis did not have pitting rust on it just a surface layer. I wish I had a a air dryer when I did this as I had to clean out the blaster 3 times and refill with dry sand. That reminds me I used bags of silica sand form Home Depot ( used in pool filters) to blast it. I do not advise using silica sand because of the hazards related to it. But it did a fine job. DanielC is correct I would not try blasting up in your area without a quality air dryer. This was the result. This is my old compressor. This is the type sand blaster I used. 5 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 i have actually worked as a sandblaster, at a foundry. It is a very time intensive job, and you need a BIG air compressor, and an air dryer, for the compressed air. If you decide to sand blast the frame, and completely remove all the rust, and then properly prime,and repaint the frame, the truck might be ready for Canby, 2016. I do agree that pulling the cab, and bed, to change 40 year old fuel lines, and being able to take a close look at brake lines is a good thing. it is a little late to tell people not to remove the cab, after it has been done. On steels, rust does not protect the steel from further rust. Rust is an electrolytic reaction. That means it requires water. Keep steel dry, and it does not rust. It also requires a source of oxygen, usually in the air. But steel will rust, underwater, only slower, because there is less oxygen available. Block a source of oxygen from the steel, and you prevent rust. This is what most paints and primers do. however, if the paint is not bonded to the bare metal, and can separate from the metal, the solid coating can just serve as a barrier to any moisture from evaporating. Another issue is that red rust takes more volume that the metal originally occupied. This is what forms the dimples in sheet steel where spot welds are. The spot weld holds the two sheets together, and the internal rust forces the two sheets apart, creating the low spot at the actual weld. Rusting, or oxidation of metals requires two different metals with different electromotive potentials. The two different metals, in the presence of an electrolyte make a battery. Electrolytes are usually a water based solution, with an acid, or a base, (alkali), or a salt. This is how batteries work. The battery goes dead when the metal the higher electromotive is completely oxidized. Unfortunately, with steel, the unrusted steel has the higher electromotive potential than either form of rusted steel, black rust, or red rust. and both forms of rust are porous, and allow the electrolyte to continue to work on the good metal. Aluminium will form a protective coat to prevent further rusting. So does Chromium, and Cadmium. Not so with steel. Zinc protects steel, because Zinc is a metal that is has a higher electromotive potential than steel. That is why zinc is used in a lot of batteries. When zinc is coated on steel, or in contact with steel, it oxidizes first, protecting the steel. I agree.....a layer of rust doesn't stop the rust, but it's supposed to slow down future rust. For as fast as bare metal will rust, if further rust happened at the same rate, suspension parts would be dust in 40 years. It was something I read about why auto manufactures don't put (or at least, didn't use to) a finish on some of the suspension parts. They expect it to rust, then consider it protected enough. At least that was my understanding. don't put that voodoo on my next truck I'll voodoo my truck all I want!!! ;) I used an 30+ year old rebuilt Speedaire compressor and a Harbor Freight 100 # sand blaster to strip my chassis. I blasted it one afternoon and primed it that evening the next afternoon I painted it black. I used the Ace Hardware brand primer and paint. It covered well and it is real easy to touch up. I am building a daily driver. My chassis did not have pitting rust on it just a surface layer. I wish I had a a air dryer when I did this as I had to clean out the blaster 3 times and refill with dry sand. That reminds me I used bags of silica sand form Home Depot ( used in pool filters) to blast it. I do not advise using silica sand because of the hazards related to it. But it did a fine job. DanielC is correct I would not try blasting up in your area without a quality air dryer. Was that Arizona rust or real rust?! LOL!!! :) I think a home setup would knock things down enough to get some paint on it, but I don't think it would be "powdercoat ready" type of clean. When I sandblasted the engine compartment/frame on the NL, I went through 300lbs of media.....friggin' neighbor cats thought it was a litter box.....I was about ready to catch them in one of those "humane" traps, then release them into the middle of the wild.......the middle of a wild raging river!!!! If I can't shine my shoes by kicking a cat, they serve no purpose!!! :) Anyway......You made me remember that I have a HF sandblaster sitting up here. If they want to pick it up to borrow it to do the frame, that would be fine. Just a note.....HD also sells playbox sand.......don't use it for sandblasting......it's like river sand....all the edges are rounded so it's more comfortable for the kids. You want sharp edges for sandblasting. Here in Portland, they've got a couple of places that have either copper slag or nickle slag abrasive. Nice and cheap and cuts great!!! 2 Quote Link to comment
harlow426@mail.com Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Denmarkboy....I saved the wiring harness/fuseblock outta the rolled over 'Asea'78 KC. Was supposed to go into the 74' you got that was mine. Will it work on this project? If so I'll donate along with the dogleg. I have a 3gallon can of plastic filler, several gallons of batt acid(exlnt rust stripper), OSPHO rust converter, and a small Snap-on hand held bead blaster(perfect for door jams/tight areas). If anything I just listed will help you let me know. 4 Quote Link to comment
harlow426@mail.com Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Would the frame(brake booster) outta the 'Turd'(83 720std) help this project? Has good brakes, drove well. Saving the power steering box, front swaybar, rear-end. LET ME KNOW SOON! 2 Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 I have two different fuse block.. I can spare. 521s I believe.. I can and I'll post pictures... cuz PICS!! 3 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Do not use sulphuric (battery) acid for rust removal. It leaves a residue that accelerated more rusting. Ever wonder why the battery box is one of the most rusted out areas of old cars? If it gets into any cracks, joints between two pieces of metal, or porous welds, it is there for ever, rusting the metal. 1 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted January 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 Would the frame(brake booster) outta the 'Turd'(83 720std) help this project? Has good brakes, drove well. Saving the power steering box, front swaybar, rear-end. LET ME KNOW SOON! thanks man, but not goint to change the frame , And i sent tou a text about the windshield out of that truck for my 720. 1 Quote Link to comment
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