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DanielC

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About DanielC

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/01/1954

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    West Linn,Or
  • Cars
    521's Ford Aerostar
  • Interests
    Watersking

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  1. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    Mike K, king of the you tube videos, thanks for the complement! Do you have video, or a complete parts list of what I need besides your disk brake brackets to disk brake a kingpin truck? Datzenmike, I am happy, with the mileage, because I was not trying to maximize it, I am thinking there is room for improvement with a five speed and possibility a slightly higher (lower numerically) rear end ratio.
  2. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    I am suspecting I did not need to replace the master cylinder. After replacing the master cylinder, my brakes got bad again, and after a few, or several times bleeding the brakes when they got bad, each time a shorter time between needing to bleed the brakes again, my brake lights started staying on. At first, I thought it was a master cylinder problem, with brake fluid pressure holding the brake light switch on. Yesterday, I took the brake light switch out of the truck, and it was always on. I blew compressed air into it, and it still stayed on. You can not have the brakes light always on, people behind you do not know it you are really stopping, and since the brake lights do not need the ignition on to work, it will and it did drain the battery. Today, I got a new hydraulic brake light switch. I am lucky to have a good auto parts store nearby, Clackamas auto parts in Oregon City. I called a local Nissan dealer this morning, to see if a brake light switch was available, it was not from Nissan. Body parts on a 521 are measured using the imperial system, you know, inches. I knew the flare nuts on a stock 521 are 3/8-24, and I was hoping that the brake line junction block hole for the brake light switch was just a standard 1/8 pipe. It was. This is the old brake light switch screwed into a 1/8 pipe "T" The OEM brake light switch needed a 1" socket to remove it. It needed a fair amount of torque to remove it, so I clamped the lower part of the brake line junction block in a pair of Vice grips. I held the Vice grips in one hand, while unscrewing the old brake light switch with the other. After removing the old brake light switch, I used a oil pressure switch socket to install the new switch. This is the new brake light switch, installed. Then I put the wires back on. Brake lights on. Brake lights off. I did a very short test drive. The brakes seemed OK. It was late this evening, and traffic is basically gone, so I took Ratsun down to a local gas station, and got gas in it. The brakes still seem to work normally. It will take a few days of driving to see if I really got the brake hydraulic problem fixed. i am now suspecting the old brake light switch was defective, and somehow letting air into the brake junction block, but not letting fluid leak out. This is the second time I took Ratsun to a gas station, and filled the tank, since I put the L-20-B engine in it. So finally, I could check the gas mileage on the truck with that engine. 221.9 miles on 9.738 gallons of gas, 22.787 MPG. This is with the stock 5211 four speed transmission, and rear axle ratio, 4.375, mostly non freeway driving, and getting two loads of hay. and not really trying to get good gas mileage.
  3. DanielC

    521 brake hydraulic problem

    Today, I got a new hydraulic brake light switch. I am lucky to have a good auto parts store nearby, Clackamas auto parts in Oregon City. I called a local Nissan dealer this morning, to see if a brake light switch was available, it was not from Nissan. Body parts on a 521 are measured using the imperial system, you know, inches. I knew the flare nuts on a stock 521 are 3/8-24, and I was hoping that the brake line junction block hole for the brake light switch was just a standard 1/8 pipe. It was. This is the old brake light switch screwed into a 1/8 pipe "T" The OEM brake light switch needed a 1" socket to remove it. It needed a fair amount of torque to remove it, so a clamped the lower part of the brake line junction block in a pair of Vice grips. I held the Vice grips in one hand, while unscrewing the old brake light switch with the other. After removing the old brake light switch, I used a oil pressure switch socket to install the new switch. This is the new brake light switch, installed. Then I put the wires back on. Brake lights on. Brake lights off. I did a very short test drive. The brakes seemed OK. It was late this evening, and traffic is basically gone, so i took Ratsun down to a local gas station, and got gas in it. The brakes still seem to work normally. It will take a few days of driving to see if I really got the brake hydraulic problem fixed. I am now suspecting the old brake light switch was defective, and somehow letting air into the brake junction block, but not letting fluid leak out.
  4. DanielC

    521 brake hydraulic problem

    I got a chance to work on Ratsun tonight. I removed the brake line between the master cylinder, and junction block, made sure it was clear, and not partially clogged. I also removed the stop light switch from the junction block, made sure it was clear, and tested it electrically, the switch is always on. I need to replace it, or put a pedal actuated brake light switch on the truck. Ratsun may be a drive around the farm truck for a while, until I can trust the brakes again.
  5. DanielC

    Just bought a 521

    "The carb solenoid is activated when the transmission is in gear, the throttle is closed, and the clutch pedal is not touched, that is coasting against the engine, going down hill." It is not part of the secondary throttle system. it is an extra passage in the carb, opened and closed by the solenoid. Under almost all normal operation, the spring holds the plunger against a port in the carb body, closing the passage. When the solenoid is activated, the plunger is drawn into the solenoid, opening the passage, and it gives you a faster idle, or because the engine is being driven at a higher than idle speed by the rear wheels, it allows more fuel and air into the intake manifold. I would put the plunger and spring back into the solenoid, on the carb, nor would I make a block off plate for the solenoid location.
  6. DanielC

    Just bought a 521

    The object on the side of the carburetor that looks and you would think is an anti dieseling solenoid, is not. It is part of the crude emissions system Nissan put on USA model 521 trucks, and it is wired in to the relays, switches, and wiring that is also involved in the activation of the second retarded timing set of points in the stock dual point distributor. Ok, I got my 1970-1971 Nissan emission control system service manual. The carb solenoid is activated when the transmission is in gear, the throttle is closed, and the clutch pedal is not touched, that is coasting against the engine, going down hill. I think you can test operation of this solenoid by putting the truck in a forward gear, and with the engine off, but key on, the solenoid should be activated.
  7. DanielC

    720 l20b dizzy wiring plz help

    When I got my first matchbox distributor, I bench tested it, with a coil. I could be wrong, but I think I remember the matchbox shutting down, drawing very little current until the shaft was turned. In other words, the matchbox should not be getting hot. Almost every ignition system works the same. 12 volts is applied to the coil. There is a switch on the ground side of the coil. This switch is opened when a spark plug is to fire. The switch on the ground side could be a set of points, mechanically connected to the engine. It could be a "black box" controlled by a trigger in the distributor, it could be an engine computer telling a ignition module to switch the coil off. It could be a 1948 gas farm tractor, or a 2019 whatever with coil on plug ignition. Battery power is applied to a coil, a switch opens when the coil is to fire.
  8. DanielC

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Wacky electrical problems are almost always bad grounds.
  9. DanielC

    521 brake hydraulic problem

    I though brake master cylinder pushrod adjustment was off too. I tried adjusting the push rod so that there was no pressure on the brake master cylinder, but it could be still not correct.
  10. DanielC

    My Dragon Datsun 521

    I have been doing work on Dragon, just not posting it. Here is some of the work. the left door weatherstrip was pretty bad on Dragon, torn and painted by previous work. I found some other old door weather strip, and cut pieces of it to patch the left door opening on Dragon. I also straightened some of the aluminium door sill guards. The OEM screws were most probably rusted, and lost, and the screw holes in the sill guards were way oversized. Not the best picture, but I got some new stainless steel screws, and some brass finishing washers to make up for the holes being oversized. The left door that was on Dragon has a lot of rust on the bottom. I had also obtained another 521 left door, but is also has rust on the bottom, but not as bad. Dragon OEM door has the green paint on it.the other door has the light blue paint. both of these door need a lot of work. This is the door that originally came on Ratsun. It is an earlier "push door handle forward to lock" door, and not a pull lock knob door like the OEM door on Dragon. But there is a lot less rust damage and mirror holes to repair on this door. In the effort to get a left door on Dragon quickly, I am going to put this door on Dragon.
  11. DanielC

    521 brake hydraulic problem

    I bled the brakes again, and parked the truck, and did some work on another of my 521 trucks. In the evening, I went to park Ratsun inside, and the brake lights were on again. I disconnected the brake light switch. I am thinking of taking the old master cylinder apart and inspecting it? Remove wheels, and brake drums, and looking at wheel cylinders? I looked at the Factory service manual, it had a possible cause as a plugged vent in the master cylinder cap? Just bite the bullet and change over to a dual master cylinder, and put front disk brakes on it?
  12. DanielC

    521 brake hydraulic problem

    After a short test drive, lost brakes again. I wish it was as simple as a fluid leak.
  13. DanielC

    521 brake hydraulic problem

    I just adjusted the brake master cylinder pushrod about a turn and a half looser, and bled the brakes again. Time for a test drive. Yes, this is a problem that started when I had the old master cylinder in the truck. That is why I changed the master cylinder.
  14. DanielC

    521 brake hydraulic problem

    Getting a response from L motor god and King rat in an hour is fantastic, thanks guys! I do not know if any air bleeds out. This is the bleeding cup I use, and when I am in the truck, stepping on the brake pedal, I cannot watch the cup for air bubbles. All I can see is more fluid in the cup, after I am out of the truck. I only pump four strokes, and refill the fluid in the MC. Brake shoes are adjusted good. The method I use is to jack the wheel up on the wheel I am adjusting. Tighten the star wheel adjuster, until I cannot turn the tire any more, either direction, this usually happens when the star wheel is tight. Then I step on the brake pedal, hard, and see if I can spin the tire. If yes, more star wheel tighten, and repeat stepping on brake pedal. Then I back off the star wheel 9 clicks. I know the factory service manual says back off 12 clicks, but there is no drag, and almost no scraping at 9 clicks. The emergency brake cable does need some adjusting tighter. Banzai, I would check the rubber hoses between the frame of the truck and the front brake wheel cylinders. When I replaced the master cylinder, I used the old master cylinder push rod. The push rod with the new master cylinder was too long. This morning, after bleeding the brakes last night, I got a load of hay. I stopped at the house to take this picture. When I drove the truck down to the barn, the brake pedal was low again. When I got out of the truck in the barn to open the feed room door, to unload the truck, I noticed the brake lights were on. This truck uses a hydraulic pressure switch for the brake lights. I am going to loosen the master cylinder push rod and see if that fixes my brake problem.
  15. DanielC

    521 brake hydraulic problem

    The brakes on one of my 521 trucks were and are working good, but recently they have developed a problem. The brake pedal gets soft, and has increasing travel, and I have to bleed the brakes about one a week, or more depending on how much I drive the truck. I am not losing any brake fluid. I only need to bleed one wheel cylinder, and after about six or eight pumps of the brake pedal, the pedal is high and hard again. I only need to bleed one wheel cylinder to get good results, and have worked my way around the trucks wheels, and the result is the same, a few pumps, bleeding the brakes and its good again. I replaced the master cylinder with a Centric one, and I am still having this problem.
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