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DanielC

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About DanielC

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/01/1954

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    West Linn,Or
  • Cars
    521's Ford Aerostar
  • Interests
    Watersking

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  1. Mike was right.... I actually replaced one set of link pin bushings in February, 2019, but got busy with other farm stuff, and did not pay attention to Ratsun tires for a while. Also, somewhere between Febuary, and August, Ratsun started running poorly, and I just did not deal with it. I put this air cleaner on Ratsun in December 2018, and one of the vacuum hoses under the air cleaner broke. But that is fixed, and with new tires, and the front end aligned, Ratsun drives much better, runs better, and no longer has a front end shake about 42 MPH.
  2. L-28, six cylinder in line. L-20-B four cylinder in line.
  3. I believe the "P" stood for the "Premium" L-1600 OHC engine. The 1300 engine 521 trucks were just L521 in the USA. This is the owner's manual that came with PL521-355167, purchased July 30, 1970. The TU (H) is a suffux that indicated the type of emission equipment on the truck and engine.
  4. Last time I posted to this thread, was January 23, 2019, and it is now August 17, the same year. Ratsun had 43523 miles then, and 45736 as this is written. Ratsun has been pretty trouble free, although the clutch slave cylinder went bad, and while waiting of one to arrive from Amazon, I finally called a local auto parts store, and the auto parts store had a slave cylinder the next day, I picked it up. Guess what arrived from Amazon that afternoon. The upper link pin bushings were worn pretty bad, and a few months ago, I replaced the bushings on the left side. The bolt that goes through the bushing was rusted solid to the metal sleeve in the bushing, and after fighting that for while, I cut the bolt into three pieces with a cutoff disk in a small angle grinder to get it out. Because a Datsun 521 uses SAE bolts on the body parts, the bolt is just a grade 8 1/2-20 bolt from a hardware store. I was able to get the new bushings from my local Nissan dealer, but I did get them a while ago. I started to remove the bolt that holds the upper link bushing with this press made with three pieces of all thread, and two pieces of 1/2 steel plate, I got the bolt to move this far. and no farther, I tried using a punch on the bolt, with no luck, and that is when I decided to cut the bolt. That was Saturday, a week ago. The next day, I went to the Blue Lake Datsun meet in Troutdale, OR. I actually took the next two pictures Monday, after the Blue Lake meet. The other side of the truck. At the Blue Lake meet, they had a raffle, and I won this, along with a die cast Nissan 2000 GT-R model driven in one of the Fast and Furious movies. While working on the upper link bushings, I pulled one brake drum off the front hub, and noticed I needed new brake shoes in the front brakes. The brake shoe change was done last Wednesday. Friday of last week, I took Ratsun to Les Schwab in Clackamas, Or, and had them check the front end alignment, they changed a few things, and they put some other wheels with new tires on the front end of Ratsun. With new brake shoes put in on Wednesday, I adjusted the front brakes again on Saturday. Also on Saturday, while I was under the truck, I greased kingpins, tie rod ends, steering idler, lower link bushings, and the slip sleeve in the middle of the drive shaft.
  5. DanielC

    My Dragon Datsun 521

    With the door catch mechanism screwed in the back of the door, you can put the front release handle in the door. The strut that goes to the lower right corner of this picture hangs below the forward release handle. put the two screws in that hold the forward mechanism to the door, and put the handle on. Put the outside release handle in the door, Center the outside release handle in the opening, and put the nuts on the posts that hold the handle to the door. This is the lock cylinder installed in the door. The lock cylinder is held by the rusty clip that holds the cylinder to the door, it just slides under some tabs on the lock cylinder. There is also a hairpin clip that holds a short lever that goes to a rod on the door catch mechanism. Carefully put this hairpin clip in place, it is really easy to drop into the door and lose it. I then put the window crank on the door. Take out the sliding window stop again. you need to lower the sliding window just below the edge of the door, to get the fuzzy strips that are right on the window glass. These are the slots in the top outside of the door that hold the four clips on each side that hold the fuzzy weatherstrip in the door. These are the slots in the top inside of the door that hold the four clips on each side that hold the fuzzy weatherstrip in the door. note the sliding window is just below the edge of the door. The sliding window is very close to coming off the roller on the end of the window regulator arm. This is the clip that holds the glass weatherstrip to the door. the tab held in the needle nose pliers is bent away from the body of the clip. That needs to be bent closer to the clip body. You just bend the tab by holding the tab with the pliers, and pushing the two outside legs of the clip closer to the center tab. this is the same clip as above, after bending it. The center tab on the clip slides into the slot in the top of the window opening. Finally, the glass weatherstrip can be slid into the two small legs of the weatherstrip clip. Start at one end, holding the fuzzy weatherstrip at a slight angle, and push the weatherstrip into all four clips. Repeat the same process for the second glass weatherstrip. I have not gotten the inside door upholstery cards redone yet, so at this point, I am done with the door.
  6. DanielC

    My Dragon Datsun 521

    After you have confirmed the sliding window moves easily, with some drag, you then lower the sliding window to the bottom of the door, and then tilt the wing window top toward the rear, and remove the wing window from the door. Then you can remove the sliding window out of the door, and remove the Mygrant run channel to glue it in. I applied a bead of the 3M weatherstrip adhesive to the bottom of the run channel, not on the edges. I then spread the bead across the width of the bottom of the run channel with the side of the nozzle on the adhesive tube. If you get the adhesive on your fingers, it will be difficult to get off, but it will wear off in a few days. You can wear gloves, but the glove tends to get stuck in the adhesive. Do not try to do the whole weatherstrip at once, but do smaller sections. This is a small piece of wood building shim, cut off at about the same width as the sliding window glass. I use it to push the Mygrant run channel completely to the bottom of the groove in the door, and on the wing window. Glue the run channel all the way across the top, starting from the rear corner, making sure the notches you cut for the top rear corner are at the top rear corner, and not below, or forward of the rear corner. Again, start at the rear corner, and work forward, and then from the rear corner work down gluing the run channel in small sections. After the run channel is glued in, put the sliding window with a string in the bottom of the door, and then put the wing window in, making sure the sliding window is in the rear channel, and you put the wind window channel over the front top corner of the sliding glass. This looks just like another picture, but now the window run channel is glued into the door. Slide the top of the wing window forward, then put the wing window screws in. The top screw is a machine screw, the bottom three screws are tapping screws. The screws that came out of this door were rusty, I replaced the rusty screws with stainless screws. The top screw is a #8-32 thread, about 3/8 or maybe 1/2 of an inch long. The bottom three screws are #8 tapping screws. After the four top screws that hold the wing window are in, you may be tempted to put the two screws in to the door that hold the bottom of the front run channel. Stop. Do not put these two screws in yet. The sliding window regulator arm goes in between the inside door skin, and the run channel. Both windows are in the door, the weather strip is glued in, and the sliding window can be moved easily with the string. Move the sliding window close to the top of the door, and use the string to tie it up. Put the window regulator in the door, through the rear hole in the door. Move the window regulator forward, lift the wing window channel away from the inside of the door, and slip the regulator arm under the wing window channel. Hold the sliding window, and untie it, and lower it so you can see the slot the end of the regulator arm slides in. Put the roller on the end of the regulator arm in the slot, Put the crank post on the front end of the window regulator through its hole. Do not worry about aligning the screws holes for the regulator, yet. Tie the window regulator arm to hold the window in the door, the exact position is not critical. The screw holes will probably not line up. Put the crank handle on the window regulator, and turn the crank until a screw hole lines up, put that screw in loosely. Turn the crank a little more and put the rest of the screws in the regulator. Then untie the string holding the sliding window, and roll the window up. Do not roll the window down, you can easily roll the window down too far, and the sliding window will come off the roller on the end of the regulator arm. Now you can put the front run channel screws in the door, top, and bottom. This is the window stop. Put it in the door. Check the operation of the sliding window. With the window regulator in the door, you can put in the door catch and lock mechanism. However, the door mechanism, unless you have already cleaned and put fresh grease on it need that first. The grease that was put on it when the truck was made 50 years ago had had 50 years to decompose, and collect dirt, and harden. I used mineral spirits to clean the lock mechanism, and the interior door release. This is the grease I used on the door mechanism. I moved the parts of the lock mechanism around as I pushed the grease under the parts as much as I could. Like the window regulator, you slide the door release and lock mechanism into the door through the larger hole in the rear of the door. The door catch mechanism going in the door. The door catch mechanism in the door, and placed in the hole it fits in. This is a picture of the door catch, without screws, you can put the screws in, and tighten them. Just a quick not on adjusting the door. The door latch in the door should NOT move the back of the door up or down as the door is closed. The height of the back of the door is controlled by the adjustment of the door hinges. The door catch is only to hold the door closed against cab. The door catch on the cab rear door post can be ajusted up and down, in and out. Adjust up and down to not move or hold the height of the rear of the door. Adjust in and out to hold the rear of the door against the door weatherstrip, and to match the depth of the door to the cab.
  7. Thank you so much for hosting this event. Now I got an owners manual for my 1970 Datsun 521.
  8. DanielC

    My Dragon Datsun 521

    It has been almost 10 months since I last added to this thread, I have been doin a little work on Dragon, but not a lot in the winter, since Dragon needed some work with plastic filler, and primer and paint and it was too cold. In the spring, I need to do a lot of work on my farm. Anyway, this is a picture from September 2018. This was sanded down, reprimed, and has been sitting. Dragon has not had a left door for a while. I finally got door in the post above sanded, primed, and painted. The door was painted with Axalta Centari acrylic enamel, with 793 overall hardener. The Datsun paint code is 558. or Axalta code 31025. This is some lightweight insulation I put in the door. I cut these four pieces to fit on the inside of the door skin. This is the spray glue I use to glue the insulation in the door. You spray the glue on the tow surfaces you want to stick together, wait about 5 or ten minutes, and then press the two surfaces together. Insulation glued in top rear corner of the door. I needed to cut more insulation away from the key cylinder hole, and the holes for the outside door release handle. There is a door brace about 2/3 of the way down on the door. When I was doing body work on the door, I put some seam sealer between the door skin, and the brace. Reattaching the brace with seam sealer really helps stiffen up the door skin, making it much easier to sand primer and surfacer prior to painting the door. The insulation and brace reattachment make the door sound a lot less 'tinny" or rattly when you close the door. I had cleaned up and painted the door hinges a while ago. I bolted the hinges on the door just by making a wild guess, and approximately centering the hinges in the middle of their adjustment range in and out, up and down. I then got more bolts (5/16-24) that bolt the door hinges to the door post on the cab, and put the bolts where I could reach them, while holding the door on the cab. While holding the door on the cab, I reached in to the cab, and put one bolt in the bottom and the top hinge to hold the door. This would have been a bit easier, but I did not chase the threads on the door hinges. With two bolts holding the door. I chased the threads in the other bolt holes, and put those bolts in. This is the door on the cab, last thing I did before I had to go to work that day. The next day, I did a minor adjustment on the door fit to the cab. The only major problem was the door was too low in the back. This is an easy fix. I loosened two of the three bolts holding the lower hinge to the door post, and three of the four bolts holding the upper hinge. then I loosened the last bolt on the upper hinge a little, but left it still slightly snug, and just barely loosened the last bolt on the lower hinge. Then I could lift the rear of the door, the upper hinge bolt would slide a little bit, and the lower hinge bolt would be a pivot. I held the door closed, no door catch in the door yet, and it looked good, and I tightened the hinge bolts again. So now I have a door on the cab, but no guts in the door, yet. Not even window run channel. (felt) This is the window run channel I use on a 521. The wing window had the forward window run channel in it. It is just a straight run. I used this adhesive to hold the Mygrant run channel above in the groove. the other end of the box, with part number. Mygrant run channel in wing window. You need to cut the rear window run channel to length, and make two 45 degree cuts in the run channel at the back top of the door. I start to measure the run channel from the wing window, and go back across the top of the door, then down the rear guide channel. you need to put the wing window in the door. The wing window goes in the door like this. As you lower the wing window into the door, you can slide the lower end into position, and then the top of the wing window will slide forward. In this picture, I am holding the top of the wing window forward, and I made a small mark where the top and rear run channel will be. Notice I left it a little long. I have put the Mygrant run channel in the door in this picture, but I have pulled it out again. At the top, and back of the door, I cut two 45 degree notches in the sides of the run channel, so the channel fits the top corner of the door. The channel is not glued in yet After cutting and fitting the run channel in the door, I put the sliding window in temporarily, and made sure it slid up and down in the rear channel without a lot of drag. Without the wing window in the door, the sliding glass goes in to the door pretty easily. You need a piece of string for the next step. In my case, I used a piece of hay baling twine. This is how I hook the string on the window. The window is lowered to the bottom of the door With the sliding window in the bottom of the door, and slid back into the rear run channel, you can put the wing window, with the front run channel into the door. As you slide the wing window in place, make sure you put the front run channel over the top front corner of the sliding glass. The sliding glass in down all the way in the bottom of the door. notice the string in the picture, pulling up on the string raises the sliding window. The window should slide up without a lot of drag, it is does not, make sure the sliding window in in the run channel both front and back. Use a flash light to look into the door id necessary. Here the sliding window is slid part way up, and is moving easily. with some drag. I raised the window all the way up to check the run channel fit in the door. A picture of the front of the sliding window. The sliding window hanging on the string. I have not yet used any glue on the run channel, all this is just checking the fit and moving of the window. I have had some sliding windows move with too much drag in some other doors I have put together, and I am trying to figure out why. I think I have figured it out, and will explain in my next post, where I contiue to put this door together. The wing window, and the sliding window will need to come out of the door to glue the weather strip to the door.
  9. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    On the crank pulley, some body may have added extra marks to it. There are many different timing marks set ups used on various L-engines, one of the common ones is a single pointer on the alternator side of the engine, and a pulley with a thick mark at TDC, and smaller marks at 20, 15, 10, 5 degrees before TDC, and one mark at 5 after TDC. TDC is a reference to piston motion, but is measured by crankshaft position. The absolute best way to check it is when the head is off the engine, using a dial indicator on the piston, and finding the point in crank rotation that the piston is as high as it goes, and not moving. On some four cylinder engines, you can actually feel when the engine goes through TDC, because two cylinders are at TDC, and the other two are at BDC, and when turning the crank pulley by hand you can feel the momentary drop in friction as the pistons at at this point. If the camshaft is in the engine and being turned, the cam and valve friction may mask the friction change caused by the pistons at TDC and BDC. 1. check TDC with the head off. 2. Position of the oil pump spindle is not important, however the distributor is limited by only being able to fit the spindle one way, and when a spark plug fires, the cap rotor must be pointing at a spark plug wire terminal in the cap. 3. the head height should be more than 4 inches. DatzenMike, or Hainz may come back soon with with stock measurement.
  10. DanielC

    Floor repair

    With the doors and fenders off this cab, I can start welding. I bolted a piece of sheet metal to the door post, and attach the ground clamp to the sheet metal. GroundClamp.JPG Time for some ugly weld pictures. After bolting the new pan in the cab, I start welding the back edge of the new pan into the cab. AftWelds1.JPG After the back top edge is welded, then I do the plug, or spot welds just forward of the seat shelf. AftWelds2.JPG More welds. AftWelds3.JPG Remember I used some weld through primer on the cab and new floor pan? the weld through primer seems to make the welds more "active" and want to pop and splatter more, and it seems the molten metal is more fluid. I could be wrong on my assessment, I am by no means an expert welder. After this weld "blew out", I held off on welding the door sill side of the floor until I could reposition the cab. AftWelds4.JPG I installed a few more bolts in the front part of the floor pan where it joins the lower firewall. FrontBolts.JPG These are some of the plug welds I put in the floor pan. PlugWeld1.JPG When I was doing these plug welds, I first held a piece of copper on the underside of the weld. PlugWeld2.JPG This is how I would hold the copper piece against the floor. The weld to the left of the copper and jack are already done, and to the right, the screws are still in the floor pan holding it tight to the brace. PlugWeld3 With the piece of copper under a weld I am going to do, I cut the bead off the end of the welding wire on the wire feed welder. I aim the wire at the center of the bottom of the hole, and as a puddle of molten metal forms, I use a spiral motion out closer to the edge hole, until the hole is filled up. PlugWeld4.JPG These welds are on the forward edge of the floor pan, on the sloped part of then lower firewall. they did not flow as nice at I would like. PlugWeld5.JPG Some more welds, and I have started grinding the welds down. PlugWeld6.JPG I start by grinding the weld with the edge of a grinding disk in a small angle grinder. Holding the grinder in this position grinds the weld forward and back. PlugWeldGrind1.JPG Then I use the angle grinder some more, but grind side to side, 90 degrees to the direction of the last grinding. I try to only grind on the weld. PlugWeldGrind2.JPG Then I use the flat side of the grinding disk to flatten the weld some more, but without grinding in to metal that is alongside the weld. After this step the weld is still a little higher than the surrounding area. PlugWeldGrind3.JPG Next, I use a small air angle grinder with twist lock grinding disks, first 36 grit, then 80 grit. PlugWeldGrind4.JPG Similar to using the larger angle grinder and the edge of the grinding disk, I first use the 36 grit disk, and make the grind marks forward and back, PlugWeldGrind5 Notice the grind marks, PlugWeldGrind6.JPG And then make the grind marks go side to side. I am still using the 36 grit disk. PlugWeldGrind7 I switch to the 80 grit disk, and repeat forward and back grinding, PlugWeldGrind8.JPG then side to side grinding. PlugWeldGrind9.JPG The weld is pretty much flush with the rest of the floor now, and then I use a 3M clean and strip disk to finish the weld and the area around the weld. Like before, I use the edge of the clean and strip disk forward and back, then side to side, and sometimes a little on the flat face of the disk. WeldFinish1.JPG WeldFinish2.JPG WeldFinish3.JPG Finally. the welded area is gone over with a 80 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander. WeldFinish4.JPG
  11. DanielC

    Floor repair

    Finally, I am doing some work on putting a new floor in this cab. There is a lot more to this post, but a few days ago, I started by spraying some weld through primer on areas of this cab that is going to get a new floor pan. Weld through primer on transmission tunnel, and lower firewall. Weld through primer on rear of transmission tunnel, and an area I call the seat shelf. Notice holes in the piece of metal on the bottom of the cab. The new floor pan top edge sits on the piece of metal above the step, and when bolted down to the lower piece of metal, it is pulled to a close fit to the top piece of metal. This is the center brace for the floor pan, sometimes it is named "hat channel". Also in this picture, is the center cab support. This is the right wheel well, but from inside the cab. This piece of metal will be cut away, and replaced with new sheet metal, but it is actually on the bottom side of the floor pan, and easily accessed with the new floor board welded in the cab. By putting the new floorboard in before replacing this damaged piece of metal, it gives a reference, or a location of the front of the floor pan in this area. This is the weld through primer I used. The other side of the label on the primer. this is the bottom of the new floor pan, with the weld through primer sprayed on some of the pan. I ran out of the primer, and had to get another can the next day. The floor pan is clamped to a saw horse, just so it does not fall on the floor. There is a short piece of 2x6 lumber under the floor pan so the flange on the edge of the floor pan is not bent by clamping the pan to the saw horse. The next day, with a new can of weld through primer, and I have moved the clamp holding the floor board or pan to the saw horse. The back edge of the floor pan, this sits on the seat shelf in the cab. Two pictures above, but primed. Two pictures above, but primed, again Primer dry, and bolting the floor pan in the cab, for the final time. I am using #10-32 machine screws, with a nut. The cab, and pan have 3/16 holes drilled in them. I use black plastic test light part as a punch, to align the holes if necessary. If the #10-32 sheet metal screws do not go easily into the 3/16 holes, i use the tapered reamer to open the holes slightly. A few of the #10-32 machine screws, and nuts are also in this picture. Just tools used to install the machine screws and nuts bolting the pan into the cab. The machine screws have a 5/16 head, the nuts are 3/8 across the flats. The final installation of the floor pan before welding needed a few more holes to hold the front part of then new floor pan to the lower firewall. Just a drill with a 3/16 bit in it. Also in this picture, the Cleco clamps that can go into a blind hole, that you cannot get a nut on the end of a bolt. You can use a sheet metal screw to do this job, but I actually used the Clecos to quickly fit the pan in and out of the cab as I was forming the pan. Transmission tunnel side of the pan, bolted in. Rear, or seat sheld side of the pan bolted in. Also in this picture, some Cleco clamps holding the outside edge of the floor pan to the inner side of the rocker sill. Same picture above, but without flash on the camera. Cleco clamps holding the outside edge of the floor pan to the inner side of the rocker sill. The front edge of the side of the floor pan is forward of the door post, and it was bolted to the cab with the machine screws. This is the forward edge of the floor pan, that had an extension welded to it by the lower firewall. I had to add a few more holes and bolts in this area before welding the pan in to the cab. This is under the middle of the cab, looking up into the forward part of the transmission tunnel. This is under the front of the cab, looking back at the floor brace, or the hat channel. This is under the cab again, looking out at the hat channel. This is the cab mount This is the rear outside corner of the floor pan. There is a small shelf on the inside of the rocker panel that the edge of the floor pan sits on. This is the rear inside corner of the floor pan, the transmission tunnel on on the far right of this picture. I think I am done editing this post, I have more pictures of the welding in process, some pretty ugly, but I do not want to spend more time sitting on a computer, with actual metal work to be done for now.
  12. DanielC

    Front Valances

    I doubt if there is any aftermarket options for your truck. On a 521, the radiator core support is basically a flat surface, and the lower grill rail is spot welded on to the core support. It is very hard to get a dolly behind the lower grill rail, or to get access to the core support to straighten the panels. Earlier 520 trucks were more rounded on the top of the front edge of the hood, than later 520 trucks, and if I remember correctly, the later 520 trucks got two headlights on each side, before the truck became a 521. This page shows me doing some on the core support on one of my 521 trucks. https://ratsun.net/topic/49698-my-dragon-datsun-521/page/9/
  13. DanielC

    Power steering

    Are the kingpins greased and in good shape? Running wide tires on the front will also make steering hard, and check tire air pressure on the front.
  14. I run Valvoline VR-1 30 weight in my Datsun engines. I used a Nissan oil filter last oil change. The Nissan part number of the oil filter is A5208-43G0A-01
  15. An oil filter has to do two things basically. Flow oil with as little restriction as possible, and stop any grit, metal particles or dirt in the oil. How do you stop the grit, metal, dirt, and other crud at the filter? You force the oil through a fine strainer, that has holes small enough to catch the stuff you do not want going to your engine's bearings. But the small holes reduce the oil flow, so you have to put a larger strainer, or more filter media in each oil filter. More filter media, more flow, and more area to actually catch crud without plugging up. There are videos of people who have cut open different brands of oil filters on the internet. Fram is a brand that is NOT known as having the most filter media inside the filter. Car companies actually do test oil filters on newly developed engines. Almost all car companies have their own brand of oil filters for their own engines. Car companies use their own brand of oil filters at their dealers. Nissan uses Nissan oil filters. GM uses AC-Delco oil filters. Ford Uses Motorcraft oil filters. Toyota uses Toyota oil filters. Why do car dealers, and companies use their own oil filter? Because if a defect in an oil filter causes an engine failure in a new car, and you had your new car serviced at the dealer, the car company is out several thousands of dollars to replace the engine. It makes sense to make sure the oil filter is absolutely good enough quality not to have the oil filter go bad. It is really poor economy to try to increase profit of a few cents on each oil filter, and have to occasionally replace an engine for a car company.. Lets say company Orange is in the business of selling oil filters, but company Orange does not actually make cars. Orange has to make a profit on each oil filter. So, company Orange is trying to reduce the cost of each oil filter it makes by reducing the amount of filter media in each oil filter. They may not spend as much on quality control. They may try to make fewer types of oil filters. and say this oil filter is "good enough" to fit several different engines. Company orange is not trying to make the best oil filter, they are trying to make a profit on poorer quality oil filters.
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