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DanielC

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About DanielC

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/01/1954

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    West Linn,Or
  • Cars
    521's Ford Aerostar
  • Interests
    Watersking

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  1. DanielC

    slight dead spot in throttle range .. what to check ?

    If your truck has a carburetor, check the accelerator pump. This is a plunger on the side of the carb, operated by lever, attached to the throttle shaft, or linkage. With the air cleaner off, and engine not running, look down the primary (smaller) carb throat. when the gas pedal is pushed, you should see a small squirt. or jet of gasoline douw toward the throttle plate.
  2. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    I got a chance to do some free way driving, yesterday. I am really liking the fact that the four blade fan is much quieter than the seven blade fan I had on the engine. Also yesterday, I filled the tank on Ratsun, and that last tank averaged a little over 23 MPG. this is with very little freeway driving, mostly short trips, and about weekly, getting a load of hay. The temp gauge on Ratsun goes up to the mid line on the stock gauge, and no farther. Today, I went to Coastal Farm, and got a ton of wood pellets in Ratsun. This is that load of wood pellets right before I unloaded them.
  3. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    To start an engine you need the fuel to air ratio in the cylinder to be acceptable, and liquid gas in the cylinder does not help, the fuel to air ratio has to be all fuel vapor. Liquid gasoline does not burn, it has to be a vapor first. A modern fuel injected engine checks many different parameters, and then calculates exactly how much fuel to squirt on top for the intake valve, to give a close to perfect air to fuel mixture in the cylinder to start easily. Additionally, the fuel injection system is sealed, and none of the volatile parts of the gasoline are allowed to evaporate when the engine is not running. An engine with a carburetor and a manifold does not check any engine parameters. It does not know if it is hot, cold, the air pressure, or anything else. Also a puddle of liquid fuel in the manifold really does not do a lot of good in the cylinder, and can make the starting mixture too lean, and then as soon as the engine starts, the liquid fuel is sucked into the cylinder, and the cylinder is then too rich. When gas sits in the float bowl for a few days, the volatile parts of the gasoline evaporate, and are not available to start the engine. The float bowl may be empty. Run a carbed engine every day, it starts easily. Let it sit for a week, it is harder to start. Let it sit for a month, and it is really hard to start.
  4. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    The coolant level seems to be holding in the radiator. The engine warms up faster, and it is running with the temp gauge at the half way line. The four blade fan is much quieter than the seven blade fan was. On Tuesday, I need to get a ton of wood pellets for my pellet stove. That involves a few miles of freeway driving.
  5. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    Winter is getting close, and I have done some stuff to Ratsun to help it run better when it is cold. The 1974 620 air cleaner I cleaned and repainted got put on the carburetor, I repaired the heat stove that fits over the L-20-B exhaust manifold, and installed the duct that takes hot air off the exhaust manifold, and goes to the air cleaner snorkel. This thin sheet metal was pretty rusted out, the bolt holes were oversized, and I made a new piece of pipe to attach the hot air duct to. I cut some small piece of sheet metal to cover the oversized bolt holes in the this sheet metal. Then I spot welded from the inside of the sheet metal the pieces to the sheet metal. I did not have the correct size of pipe to attach the duct, but I had a piece of pipe from exhaust pipe work that was slightly oversize. I made a few lengthwise cuts in that piece, and then welded the gaps together, and that made the diameter of the pie smaller. I then was able to weld from the inside the new piece of pipe to the thin sheet metal. I need the correct bracket that holds the front of the air cleaner to the intake manifold. I put the L-20-B engine in Ratsun June 18th, 2018. This is the first time I put a L-20-B engine in a 521, and I was concerned about possible overheating problems with the stock 521 radiator. Long story short, I used a 7 blade fan off a 1980 720 truck, with a L-20-B engine, no air conditioning. This fan. This is a picture of that fan, fitting inside the fan shroud of a stock 521/L-16 radiator and fan shroud. This fan is off a 1980 720, L-20-B non AC truck. This is a four blade fan, It cam out of a 1974 620 truck. I put the four blade fan on the L-20-B engine in Ratsun. Remember, I put the L-20-B in Ratsun in June, and it is now December. I drove Ratsun a lot since I put the L-20-B, even through the heat of the summer of 2018, without a hint of overheating. In fact, the temperature gauge in Ratsun would consistently read below the mid point line in the stock temp gauge. If the mid point line is 1/2, the gauge was reading between 3/8, and 7/16. I got a little ahead of myself. To get to the fan, I needed to drain and pull the radiator. First, I got this drain pan to catch the coolant in. Notice also the old oil bottle with the side cut out of it. The radiator drain on a 521 is above the front frame cross member, and when the coolant is drained out of the radiator, it runs on the cross member, and makes a mess. My finger is on the radiator drain petcock. This is the cut oil bottle, in place to catch the coolant coming out of the radiator, and draining the coolant into the drain pan, without running all over the parts of the frame, making a mess. The drain pan under the truck. In this picture, the four blade fan is installed on the engine, and three of the four lock tabs are bent over the bolts. To put the lock strips in over the bolt head, I turn the bolt until a flat side of the bolt is parallel with the end of the lock strip. Then I use the edge of a cold chisel to bend the lock strip close to the bolt head, gently. Then I use an aluminium punch to bend the lock strip more, again gently. and finally tap the end of the lock strip over the bolt head. I know the fan is on backwards. Remember, I am having no cooling problems with this truck. Here I am lowering the radiator into place. The radiator fits with the fan shroud on the radiator. Hold the radiator against the core support, and if needed, gently bend a fan blade toward the engine. Just a picture of the radiator bolts on one side, being put in. you can hold the radiator with one hand, like the picture above. and move the radiator around to get one bolt started. Once one bolt is started, you can pivot the radiator on that bolt, and get a second bolt started on the other side of the radiator. Do not tighten either of those two bolts yet. Go across the radiator, start the third bolt, and across the radiator again, and start the fourth bolt. Tighten the four bolts finger tight, then use a socket, extension and ratchet to tighten the four radiator mounting bolts. Finally, I changed the thermostat. I was just using the thermostat that was in the L-20-B engine when I got the engine from the junkyard. The old thermostat was a 180 degree thermostat, this new thermostat is a 195 degree thermostat. I also got a new thermostat gasket, I cleaned both surfaces on the thermostat cover, and housing, by first carefully using a sharp knife to remove old gasket without gouging the cover,or housing surface, then gently using a 3M bristle brush, Then I used a flat file on the gasket surfaces. Because bolts in aluminium tend to seize, and rip out treads, I use some grease on the thermostat cover bolts, this grease from a Mercury outboard marine dealer. Because you greased the bolts, you need to not tighten the bolts as you would a dry bolt Finally, I put a paint filter funnel in a plastic funnel and poured the coolant back into the radiator. This is the crud in the filter funnel. I took Ratsun for a short test drive after the work was done. The drive was short, no freeway, or hills, but the temperature gauge finally went to the mid line on the temp gauge. Tomorrow, I will check the radiator coolant level,
  6. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    This, The installation starts about half way down this page. https://ratsun.net/topic/49698-my-dragon-datsun-521/?page=4
  7. DanielC

    Panels available?

    Not so much in the Netherlands. In the USA, there are parts available, but you still have to make new floors, if you need them, and in a lot of 521 trucks, you need new floors
  8. DanielC

    Vacuum Line re routing/cleaning up engine bay/carb line help

    You got to tell us the year of 620 truck you have, they had L-16, L-18, and L-20-B engines in them. Every year is different, and some years may have had changes mid year. But every year of 620, and almost every other year and vehicle with a carburetor must have the float bowl full of gas to start.
  9. DanielC

    521 blower motor resister

    Here is a 521 wiring diagram. The diagram shows three wires going to the heater box. There is one electrical connector connecting the cab wiring harness to the heater box, with three wires. The heater motor is grounded by a wire going to a screw on the heater box, and the heater box is grounded to the cab sheet metal. The blower motor resistor in inside the heater box, and the resistor has a center tap. When you pull the heater fan switch one one click, power from the heater fan switch is applied directly to the heater motor, it runs on high. Pulling the fan switch out to the second click, applies power to the center tap on the resistor, and pulling the switch out to the third click applies power to the entire length of the resistor. If the resistor is bad, the heater fan should still run on high, because the resistor is not in the circuit. The key must be on for the heater to come on. The heater fuse gets power through the ignition switch. I believe the heater fuse is the second fuse in from the outside of the truck in the fuse box. The forward side of the fuse box should have power on all six fuses with the key on. Check this with a test light. With the key on, and the heater switch pulled to the first click, check for power on all the fuses on the back side of the fuse box. GLASS TUBE FUSES CAN LOOK GOOD WHEN THEY ARE BAD. If you have an electrical problem, you must check to see if power is getting through the fuse. There is a bunch of electrical connectors under the dash, to the right of the glove box. These connectors connect the dash wiring harness to the engine room harness. It is possible there is a bad connection in the connector for the heater electrical power. There is a connector for the heater fan switch, and the connector for the heater box from the cab wiring harness. Using a test light, just follow the wiring from the fuse box to the heater box, checking for power. The heater fan motor has two wires coming out of it, a blue wire, and a black wire. Between the connector for the heater box, and the fan motor itself, There is a a single connector in the blue wire. You can apply 12 volts to the blue wire going into the heater fan motor, and the fan should should run, pretty fast. That brings us back to the question above, does the heater fan work?
  10. DanielC

    Overheating

    I'd change the thermostat. If your engine starts to overheat, turn on the heater to max heat. If you do not get heat out of the heater, the water is already low.
  11. DanielC

    Mirror placement

    There are no stock outside mirrors on a 521. 521 trucks were loaded on ships without outside mirrors, and USA dealers installed mirrors.
  12. DanielC

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Now install the bushing in the lever. I ground a slight taper on the bushing, and started that end of the bushing onto the lever. Then I used a vise to press the modified bushing into the shift lever. This is hard to explain, but you want use some force to push the bushing in the lever, but not so much force as to damage or break the bushing. But it cannot go in too easily or the next few steps will be difficult.  This is just some excess bushing. It will be cut off with the 1/32 cutoff disk. I used a punch and a hammer to drive the bushing all the way through the hole in the shift lever. Then I cut the excess bushing off. try not to cut into the shift lever like I did. After cutting the bushing, I used a file to smooth both sides of the bushing and the shift lever. The slot cut in the bushing, and pressing it into the lever now makes the hole in the lever too small for the pin. I drilled the hole with a 23/64 drill, to provide clearance for the pin. this is why the bushing needs to be kind of tight in the shift lever, so it can be drilled without spinning in the lever hole. Just another view of the drill in the bushing. This is a close up of a metal drill gauge. It is really handy to have around. why did I choose a 23/64 drill? because that is the smallest holes in the drill gauge the shift lever pin would fit into. Try to fit the pin in the bushing pressed in the shift lever. When it fits, file the sides of the shift lever again, to remove any burrs. Try the pin again, it still should go in the bushing in the lever. Now the bushed lever can be put back in the transmission. Start the pin into the transmission lever pivot. Put one of the brass washers on the pin. Put the lever in the transmission with the end of the lever in the shift rod end in the bottom of the hole, and slide the pin into the lever. Then put the second brass washer in the space between the lever and the ear of the transmission pin pivot. Now the fun begins. You have to move the second washer around until it's hole lines up with the pin. I used the edge of a cold chisel to move the brass washer. the second washer need to move forward, and down to line up, in this picture. I missed a picture, I used this chisel on the brass washer to move the washer around until the hole lined up, just like I am moving the pin clip. It took a lot of time to get the second brass washer to where it needed to be to line up, but i got it in the correct place, after about 20 minutes. This is just another picture of using a cold chisel to push the pin clip around. This is a small rubber boot that goes over the shift lever, and keeps dirt and crud out of the hole the shift lever engages the shift rod in the transmission. I got it from Dick Hanna Nissan Friday March 25, 2018. This is that boot on the transmission. I then put the transmission cover plate with the shift boot over the shift lever. No picture of screwing it down, do you really need that? Then I put the knob on the transmission shift lever.
  13. DanielC

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    This is how I removed a lot of the slop in the shifter. First, you need to get the seat out of the way, to get access to the plate covering the top of the transmission. My garage is too tight to remove the seat out of the truck, and it was late last night and raining, so I just raised the seat on two short pieces of 4x4 wood. The far side of the seat on a block. Now would be a good time to remove the shift knob, Then remove the transmission cover plate screws, and then the cover plate. That exposes the shift lever pivot pin. This is the gap in the shifter with the lever moved right. In the last picture, the pin clip is open side up, I carefully pushed it around the pin until the opening is down, with a smaller blade screwdriver. Then I used the screrwdriver to carefully pry the clip off the pin. Put the screwdriver blade in the opening of the clip, and twist the screwdriver against the pin, and the clip will come up. I also held my thumb against the clip, so to would not spring off somewhere I could not find it. Even thought the body parts of a 521 are Imperial measurements, the engine and transmission are metric, and it would be hard to find a Metric "E" clip. With the clip off the pin, then you can start to push the pin out of the lever. Here I am using the screwdriver to pry the pin more out of the shift lever. after the screwdriver will not move it any farther, it should come out with your fingers, or maybe a pair of pliers. These are the parts I got at Ace Hardware. The flanged bronze bushing has nominal inside diameter of 3/8 of the inch, and an outside diameter for half of an inch. The brass washers are 5/16 inch ID, and 3/4 inch OD. If you can take the pivot pin with you, the pin will go into the bronze bushing, The pin will not go into the brass washers. I used a tapered reamer to slightly open up the hole in the brass washers. And tested the brass washers on the pin. Then you need to use a file to remove any burrs from reaming the hole in the washers. Then you need to modify the bushing. This is the hole on the shift lever. and this is the bushing diameter. The bushing is to long also, and has a flange on it. i cut the flange off with a 1/32 cutoff wheel in a die grinder, and then cut the length of the bushing, so it could be squeezed together. Then I used a pair of vice grips to close the gap in the bushing.
  14. DanielC

    Need new batttery for 510 goon project - size?

    I too am using Pick-n-Pull batteries in my 521 trucks. You may want newer battery with a V-6, but wait until the project is done, so a new battery does not sit without being used for a long time.
  15. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    I am pretty sure there are no factory side mirrors on 521 trucks. Outside mirrors were a dealer installed option. Without mirrors, you could pack 521 trucks, and other Datsuns closer together in the cargo hold of ships.
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