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About DanielC

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/01/1954

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  • Location
    West Linn,Or
  • Cars
    521's Ford Aerostar
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  1. About the exhaust system, see this thread. https://ratsun.net/topic/61167-how-i-replaced-a-521-exhaust-system/ The truck looks pretty good, and that is a OEM Datsun color for 521 trucks.
  2. It really does not matter what transmission you have, the clutch is engine specific. In the 45 or so years since your truck left the factory, there is a pretty good chance somebody changed something. Below the number three or four spark plugs, conveniently behind the oil dip stick is an angled raised boss with the engine type, and the engine serial number. 1976 620 trucks had a L-20-B engine from the factory, and as far as I know, that engine either had a 225 MM clutch disk, or a 240 MM clutch disk. If the serial number on the engine matches what the truck left the factory with in 1976, you should be able to just order a clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing to do the clutch job, using the correct year, make and model of your truck. If the engine has been changed, I would suggest taking the clutch out to get the correct one for your truck. Any L transmission will bolt on to any L engine. You can bolt a 280ZX transmission to a L-16 engine, or the L-16 transmission to the 280ZX engine. To accommodate different pressure plate heights, the collar that holds throwout bearing has different heights. So the collar matches the pressure plate, and the pressure plate matches the clutch disk, and clutch surface on the flywheel. There are six bolt flywheels, and five bolt flywheels. Five bolt flywheels were used on most L-16 and L-18 engines, although there was a six bolt crankshaft available long ago for the L-16, and L-18, as a competition part. L-20-B engines used the six bolt flywheel, as did the six cylinder L-engines.
  3. DanielC

    Fuel pump I.D.

    Figure 24B is a L-16, L18, L20-B fuel pump. It has the long curved lever that rides on the eccentric on the front end of the camshaft on the over head cam engines. The J-13 has an eccentric on the camshaft, somewhere in the middle of the engine block. The short lever on the new pump you have should work. If the outside of the fuel pump looks different than the one you are replacing, that is not an issue. Look at the lever, is it as long as the old one, with the same bends? Does it reach the same distance in the engine? That is the important part. By the way, I used your picture of the engine compartment on your truck to show me how to route the the windshield washer hose on my 521 trucks. Thanks
  4. DanielC

    My Dragon Datsun 521

    This is the old right front tire that was on Dragon. The old left tire. About ten years ago, I painted a bunch of wheels, these are two stock 521 wheels that were painted. I have a few old hub caps with some rust on them. I chose these two that looked the best. This is a closer look at one of them This is a polish that I actually heard about on an episode of Jay Leno's garage. I like it. I used part od an old sock to apply the polish. Same hub cap, two pictures above. Last week I got some new tires mounted on the wheels I previously painted. Right side. Left side.
  5. The tank in the bed of 521 trucks is not a charcoal cannister. It is just a vapor and liquid separator. There is a valve on the left inner fender, close to the carburetor, with three ports. One port goes to the air cleaner, one port goes to the bed separator tank, and the third port goes to a small pipe on the PCV pipe from the crankcase. "A" on the valve goes to the Air cleaner. "F" on the valve goes to the bed separator tank, "C" on the valve goes to the Crankcase. Clean air can flow from the air cleaner into the gas tank, through the vapor separator. this allows air into the gas tank as gas is used up. Gas vapors cannot flow from the fuel tank or the vapor separator tank into the air cleaner, they are allowed by the valve to go to the crankcase, where they are stored. When the engine is running, the crankcase is purged by the PCV system.
  6. "I dont know if the relocation of the battery is a factor or not.... " This is a huge red flag to me. Look again at my battery cables, both have a length of less than two feet, and are 2/0 gauge not 2 gauge. Do you know how to check voltage drop in a wire circuit? A definition, voltage drop is the voltage loss in a length of wire with a current flowing through the wire. A brief explanation of checking voltage drop. In this case, we are checking voltage from the alternator output to the battery positive terminal, with the engine running. With the voltmeter set to volts, put the positive lead from the voltmeter on the positive output of the alternator, and put the negative lead from the voltmeter on the positive battery terminal. The reading should be less than .5 volts, ideally less than .2 volts. Less than a half volt, ideally less than two tenths of a volt.
  7. How are you measuring the voltage? Do you know if the voltmeter you are using is accurate? One thing that makes choosing an alternator for a Datsun a little more difficult is the Datsun engine turns a relatively RPM. Because the engine turns a higher RPM than average engines, the ratio to alternator speed to engine speed is a little lower, and this results in the alternator spinning a slower on a Datsun engine at idle than on an engine with a lower red line RPM. If the alternator is not spinning very fast, it does not matter if it is a high output alternator, it needs more RPM to make full voltage output. I just went out, and checked the voltage at the battery with a Fluke model 177 digital multimeter. On my two running Datsun 521 trucks. No, I have not had the Fluke voltmeter calibrated, but I believe it is still more accurate than the typical dash mounted voltmeter. Ratsun was running about 14.59 volts. Dragon was running about 14.36 volts. Both trucks are running internally regulated alternators, with the regulator plug on the wiring harness jumped in two places. I checked voltage at the battery again on Dragon, this time engine running, lights on high beam, heater fan on fast speed, wipers lifted off the windshield, but on high speed, and with four way flashers on. 13.9x -14.24 volts. On both trucks, there is a a ground wire from the lifting lug that the negative battery cable is attached to down to the alternator frame, and the ground wire from the alternator frame to the inner fender where the voltage regulator was mounted. This is a picture of the battery cables and battery in Dragon. I just realized this battery is 15 years old.
  8. If your tech cannot figure out how to wire an additional switch, with two wires... come to your own conclusion.
  9. DanielC

    Hood closing rubbers

    The wedge shaped roadster hood bumpers look the same the rear hood bumpers for a 521, but the front ones are different. The front hood bumpers on a 521 had a block shape that also held the hood at the correct height. The front bumpers are NLA, No Longer Available. This is a solution for that problem, using hood bumpers from a late model Ford car or truck. They has a M6-1.0 thread. Ford has them screwed onto these parts. But I ended up just using washers and nuts. I drilled these holes in the top of the radiator core support. This is the Ford hood bumper in the hole on the right side of the core support. This is the underside of that hood bumper. I ended up using a nylon insert lock nut on the bottom of the mounting surface, because I could tighten the top nut by holding the hood bumper. The end of the Ford hood bumper bolt stuck down into the space occupied by the headlights, so I trimmed this much off the end of the bolt. By screwing the two nuts on the hood bumper up and down you can adjust the height of the front of the hood. You want to adjust the height of the hood to gently rest on the bumpers, lightly. If you position the bumpers too high against the hood, it makes the hood difficult to close, and put too much tension on the hood catch, making releasing the hood difficult, and a lot of pull is needed on the hood release cable. The center hood catch with the cone shaped pin is also adjustable, and if it is too tight, again the hood release is difficult.
  10. Most 521 headlight switches have only four pins, two for the headlights, and two for park, tail, side marker, and instrument lights. There was a fog light option for 521 trucks, that used a six pin switch. About a third of the way down this page is a headlight switch, with six pins. http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-pickup-parts.html I have wired an additional relay into my 521 trucks that is triggered by the red with a yellow stripe wire, that get fused power directly from the battery. This added relay bypasses all the cab wiring, and puts higher voltage to the headlights. You can put the added relay by the original headlight relay, and if for some reason, the headlight switch quits working, applying power directly to the contact on the original headlight relay that has the red with a yellow stripe wire will make the head lights come on.
  11. When I bought Ratsun, it did not have a windshield washer reservoir, or pump for the fluid. In one of my trips to Pick-n-Pull, a local junkyard, I got this tank and pump, with bracket from a 720 truck. Here is is just sitting in the place I am going to attach it to the inner fender. This is the bracket the tank slides on to from the top. I cut a piece of sheet metal to hold the top of the wash tank bracket away from the inner fender, because the inner fender of a 521 is different shaped than a 720. I cut the side of the sheet metal that is going on the 521 inner fender a bit larger than the two holes in the 521 inner fender that hold the original washer bag and pump. The other end of the sheet metal I cut to the width of the 720 washer pump bracket. With the piece of sheet metal cut that will hold the top of the washer tank bracket, I needed to put two bends in the sheet metal. This piece of metal was a little too long to bend in a vice directly, so I clamped two longer pieces of 1/2 bar stock on each side of the sheet metal. Then I clamped the bar stock and sheet metal in the vice. I could of clamped the bar stock and sheet metal in the vise directly, but it is a little hard to hold everything in place accurately enough, and turn the vise handle. Then I pushed on the piece of metal, bending it. I did use both hands, but I had to occupy one hand with a camera, taking this picture. I wanted to tighten up the bend a little, so I took a block of wood, and hammered the bend a little tighter. I drilled two holes in the bent part of the sheet metal that will bolt to the inner fender, the holes match the two existing holes that the bracket that the Kangaroo washer fluid bag hangs on. Then I put the 420 washer tank bracket on the inner fender, under the piece of bent sheet metal, and marked where I want the second bend in the sheet metal. With the second bend in the support for the top of the tank bracket, I drilled two holes to match the two holes in the top of the 720 washer tank bracket. I also trimmed a little extra metal off the narrow end of the sheet metal, rounded the corners with a pair of sheet metal snips, and deburred the edges and corners. I bolted the 720 tank bracket to the top support I made, and then jusr drilled a single hole in the inner fender to match the hole in the bottom of the 720 tank bracket, and bolted that down also. I also put ends on the wires for the 720 tank motor that match the existing washer motor wires in the 521. This is a close view of the 720 washer tank motor, and the plug for the 720 washer motor. The tank just slides on the bracket. I ran the wires under the bracket, put the plug on the motor, slid the tank on the bracket, and then ran the hose under the bracket. I ran the wash hose next to the wiring harness, and up to the squirt nozzle on the hood. A quick bit of advise about the squirt nozzle. It is made of aluminium. the nut will seize to the threads of the squirt nozzle, and if you try to remove the nut, it very often breaks. This is a tube of a marine grease I got from a boat dealer, the grease is made by Mercury Marine. I put a bit of this grease on the threads of the squirt nozzle, Then I installed the squirt nozzle in the hood. There is no need to tighten the nut holding the nozzle, it sits on a rubber washer. jusr tighten the nut enough so the nozzle does not flop around. I pushed the wash fluid hose on the nozzle. this is the hose that came with the tank, from the 720 truck. Fill the tank, and finally, aim the squirter nozzles on to the windshield. The two nozzles screw in and out of the aluminium nozzle body, and seal with rubber washers. Again, do not tighten them too tight, they will seize to the nozzle body.
  12. DanielC

    Ignition system

    I use a points distributor in Dragon, one of my 521 trucks. But it also has this. It is a capacitive discharge box that uses the point for a trigger only. It will easily put out about a 1/2 inch thick blue spark, with the stock coil and ballast resistor.
  13. DanielC

    My Dragon Datsun 521

    Gene, How can I get your mailing address?
  14. "I want to eventually use it possibly to tow my 240z but don’t know if that little truck could handle it even with a Ka lol." In the 1970's and early 1980's I used a 521 with a L-16, then a L-18, and a five speed to tow a two horse trailer all over the Pacific Northwest. I do not know how hilly Ohio is, but here we do have hills. You probably know this, but I will mention it anyway. Have brakes on the trailer with the 240Z.
  15. A long time ago, I restored a bunch of side marker lights for 521 trucks. I used the #67 lamp. I sprayed the inside of the metal with silver spray paint, to better reflect the light from the lamp. Another option is to use LED lamps. https://www.superbrightleds.com/
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