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DanielC

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Everything posted by DanielC

  1. I thought the l18 had a longer stroke than the l16. If you can get the parts using the l16 rods on a l18 crank gives you a "long rod" l18
  2. The horn relay grounds through the steering shaft. With a gap,no ground. The pins have to flip a cam on the turn signal switch to cancel the turn signal. With a gap, the pins do not reach far enough to flip the cam that cancels the switch.
  3. This relay is for switching the second set of retarded points in the dual point distributor. If you have changed the distributor, transmission, or carburetor, the relay no longer functions.
  4. I have been driving Dragon pretty much trouble free, but yesterday, I needed to get some gravel to fill a pothole in a driveway down to a barn. Dragon got put to work.
  5. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    Go to a Nissan dealer and get a BSPT oil pressure switch. Ask for an oil pressure switch for a 1980 720 without oil pressure gauge.
  6. The oil pick up tube used under the 521 oil pan. They are matched to each other.
  7. The ground is supplied by the washer switch on the wiper wash knob, by twisting the knob clockwise. Remove the bag from the truck. Using a heat gun on the hoses will soften them up so they can be pulled off the connections easier. The motor pocket in the bottom of the bag is held closed by some brass clasps, like loose notebook paper pages in a theme paper binder you turned your homework in school, in about 1970. With the motor out of the bag pocket, if it is not rusted too bag, remove the pump cover off the pump, and try to turn the rotor by hand. If it turns, try applying 12 volts to the pump motor, and see if it turns. If it reliably runs, put it back together. If the motor does not work, look in a junkyard, for a washer motor in another car. You can also search Amazon for new washer pumps, look for the smallest one that will fit in the bag pocket. You probably will not find a new pump with a inlet and outlet port that will fit the port holes in the bag, but you might find a washer pump that will fit into one of the port holes on the bag, and have to run one hose through the same slot in the bottom of the bag pocket that you put the motor in. One of my 521 trucks did not have the kangaroo washer bag. I put a washer tank and pump from a 720 truck in the same location as the OEM bag and pump. A lot more pictures near the bottom of this page. https://ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521-now-with-l-20-b-and-a-five-speed/page/25/
  8. I have a spare one. Actually, I have more than one, one is cleaned up and on a painted bracket. The bracket is painted Dragon Green, the round body of the motor is painted grey. I also have one that is not cleaned up or painted. i can take pictures later if you are interested. You are in southern California. "you don't need any stinking wiper motors"
  9. Lets start with this. This diagram is not 100% accurate, but it is close. It does not have any of the of the wiring for the crude emission controls on USA trucks involving several switches on the transmission, carburetor, firewall, or gas and clutch pedals. Sometime between 1970 and 1971 model year 521 trucks the headlght wiring was changed. There was also a factory option fog light setup, but I do not think that made it into very many USA 521 trucks, but it may have been a dealer installed option. Earlier and later 521 trucks had a six fuse fuse box. The earlier truck has one solid red hot wire to the light switch, and had three fuses always hot, three fuses ignition on hot. Later 521 trucks split out the headlights from all the other lights, and had two always hot wires to the light switch. The fog light option had a third hot wire from the fuse box, with a additional in line fuse. The wiring diagram above shows the four hot fuse box, with the fog light option. A "normal" non fog light option light switch has a four pin connector. Two contacts are power from the fuse box through the switch, to the headlight relay. The other two contacts are for all the other lights. I think that the wiring harness between the fuse box to the light switch on the three hot fuse trucks has a "Y" in it to feed the two circuits to the light switch. The OEM 521 light switch has two positions. Pull out one click, everything except headlights come on. Pull out second click adds headlights to everything else. If you have the fog light option, when the light switch is pulled to first or second click, the switch will rotate clockwise, similar to the washer squirt switch on the wipers. About a third of the way down this page, http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-pickup-parts.html Is a headlight switch that I put in one of my 521 trucks, the six wire option. The four pin plug fits the dashboard wiring harness, and the lights work normally. The knob on the 52136 switch is not the OEM knob, but I was able to put the original knob on the six connector switch by tapping the hole in the switch shaft to fit the screw thread from the original 521 light switch. If you go to a hobby store, a company called Du-Bro sells a tap and drill set, 10-32, 8-32, 6-32, 4-40, and 2-56. All these tap sizes are used on a 521. While on the subject of thread sizes, 1/4-28, 5/16-24, 3/8-24, and 7/16-20 are also used on the body of the 521. Headlight wiring is pretty simple on a 521. A red wire from the fuse box goes to the light switch. Headlight power from the light switch to the headlight relay us a red wire with a yellow stripe. The headlight relay has four 1/4 spade terminals, power in, low beam out, high beam out, and relay coil ground. The relay coil is internally connected to the power in terminal. The low beam out terminal is normally closed to the power in terminal, the high beam out terminal is normally open. The relay coil is grounded by the dimmer switch on the turn signal. Wires from the headlight relay are red with a black stripe to the low beams, red with a white stripe for the high beams. The headlights are grounded by a black wire in the wiring harness, that goes back to a lug under one of the screws holding the voltage regulator to the inner fender. This wire MUST be still grounded to the inner fender, even if you are now running an internally regulated alternator. There MUST also be a ground wire from the inner fender back to the alternator frame, and a wire from the alternator frame to the battery ground connection on the cylinder head, just behind the fuel pump on a L-16. These ground connections between the body and engine are critical. If these grounds are removed, or go away, the cab will ground through the throttle cable, and that will melt the throttle cable. Now I hope you will understand why I did not want to type this on my cell phone. I have two threads on 521 trucks. https://ratsun.net/topic/49698-my-dragon-datsun-521/ https://ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521-now-with-l-20-b-and-a-five-speed/ lots of info, some boring, in those threads.
  10. I can give you more info about 521 headlight switches, but right now I am on phone, and need to get to my computer.
  11. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    I believe 510's are metric, so I would not think so. But if the steering box on a 510, and a 521 are thread the same, it could work. Datzenmike just replied. About the driveshaft.
  12. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    My guess is the steering box fill plug is probably a standard imperial pipe plug. Second guess, British pipe.
  13. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    I measured centerline of u joints, slip yoke pushed in, then pulled out, but still engaged, then go to about middle of the two positions, but slightly forward of middle. If you still have the driveshaft center bearing, the front driveshaft length does not change a lot, most slip is on the rear half of the driveshaft.
  14. It may be difficult to find L-16 pistons, but it is easier to find L-24 pistons. Same bore size, piston pin height, but with possibly different dishes in them, but a set of six, giving you two unused pistons.
  15. The voltage regulator that feeds current to both gauges drops the voltages down to around 8 volts. The gauges are a simple heating element that heats a bimetal strip, and as the strip gets hotter, it bends more, and moves the needle higher. If your engine has just started, the alternator voltage regulator is regulating to around 14.5 to 15 volts. If you apply 15 volts to a 35 ohm resistor, it will flow about a half amp, and dissipate about 6.5 watts. Gauge voltage is around 8 volts, so the 35 ohm resistor is flowing about .228 amps, times 8 volts, is about 1.83 watts. That is just with a resistor, no gauge wiring. There is a voltage drop in the gauge wiring, how much, I do not know. But I think you would not have any problem with a 1/4 watt resistor, especially if you only need to hook it up for about 30 seconds, to see if the gauges go to around half scale
  16. Start with this. There are ten pins to connect to the plug in the dashboard wiring harness. There is space for 12 pins, like the numbers on a clock, but two empty spaces at 4:00 and 5:00. Connect the ground pin (10:00) to negative on a 12 volt source. Connect 12 volts to the pin at 1:00, four dash lights should come on. Connect 12 volts to the pin at 2:00, the left turn indicator should come on. Connect 12 volts to the pin at 9:00, the high beam indicator should come on. Look carefully, it is behind a dark lens. Connect 12 volts to the pin a 12:00, the right turn indicator should come on. With the ground pin (10:00) still connected, connect 12 volts positive to the pin at 7:00. Now ground the pin at 4:00, the oil light should come on. Ground the pin at 8:00, the IGN light should come on. Leave both the pin at 10:00 hooked to negative on 12 volts, and 12 volts positive on the pin at 7:00. Ground the pin at 3:00, the fuel gauge should go full. Ground the pin at 11:00, the temp gauge should go full. If you can get about a 35 to 40 ohm resistor, connecting the fuel gauge pin to ground in series with the resistor should read around half full. Using a 35 to 40 ohm resistor to ground the pin at 11:00 should cause the temp gauge to read about the middle. If you have an "old school" test light with a small incandescent lights, you can use it to ground the fuel gauge or temp gauge pins. The light will flash, this is normal. The gauges will read somewhere in the middle. And that is how to test a 521 gauge cluster.
  17. DanielC

    Advice please

    Just having spark is not good enough. It has to be at the right time. On a four cylinder engine, you can have spark at the right time, in relation to the engine being at TDC, but because of the 90 degree spacing of the spark plug wire towers on the distributor cap, the rotor can be far enough away from a tower that you get a spark on a wrong cylinder, or none at all. It takes considerably more voltage to fire a spark plug under compression than it does with only air pressure with a spark plug laying on the valve cover, or somewhere else. Turn the engine to 10 degrees before TDC #1 by hand. Remove the distributor cap, make a mark on the distributor body with a felt pen where the center of the distributor rotor points. Put the cap back on, the tower with the plug wire for #1 cylinder should line up with the mark you made where the rotor is pointing. On another note, have you checked compression on the engine?
  18. DanielC

    Advice please

    The blue with a yellow stripe wire is for the second retarded set of points. It is only used in third gear, part throttle. I think that if you have a weber carburetor, you have removed at least one of the switches necessary for that system to work. Straighten out your timing pointer. If you remove all four spark plugs, and the fan belt is fairly tight, you should be able to rotate the engine by hand. Because a four cylinder in line engine has two pistons at Top Dead Center, and two pistons at Bottom Dead Center, you should be able to feel that point in the engines rotation by turning the crankshaft pulley. this will allow you to get the timing pointer pretty close to where is should be.
  19. DanielC

    Fuel cell

    I have a spare 521 gas tank. PM me , if interested.
  20. Here is another vote for the stock L-16 radiator being sufficient on an L-20-B engine in a 521. I am also going to suggest you check the ignition timing, and make sure it it not retarded. 10 to 12 degrees BTDC is a good place to start. learn what preignition or detonation sounds like. 50 year old vehicles do not have a spark knock sensor to protect the engine, you have to be able to hear it, and have the knowledge to prevent and fix detonation. If you have the L-20-B engine with the exhaust manifold and intake manifold joined together, that uses exhaust heat to warm the intake manifold, I would try to get an intake manifold with water runners in it, and a stock "Y" exhaust manifold. The L-20-B engine also had a separated exhaust manifold that is acceptable, but not as desirable as the L-16 exhaust manifold. Before you get a header, make the rest of the exhaust system bigger. I run a 2" system on two of my 521 trucks, one with a L-20-B and five speed from a 1980 720 truck, the other 521 has a L-18 and a five speed.
  21. DanielC

    parts/repairs

    521, under the cab floor. 620 through the cab. Thread title, 1971 521.
  22. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    The half plate just covers the hole below a plate between the engine and transmission. It stops gravel , dirt, small animals from getting in the clutch levers.
  23. DanielC

    parts/repairs

    On a 521 wires to fuel tank, taillights, and transmission goes under the cab floor, not in the cab.
  24. DanielC

    Advice please

    The condenser on the coil is for radio noise suppression. The condensers on or in the distributor are necessary for a points distributor. As I recall, on the OEM dual points distributor, there was little room inside the distributor, so it had two condensers on the outside of the distributor,
  25. DanielC

    My 1971 521

    The 521 and 620 motor mounts may share the same part number now, but 521 body parts are imperial, not metric. If you buy a superseded part number "521" motor mount, the nut that threads on the molded in stud on the top of the mount probably is a metric nut, and trying to use the OEM 521 imperial nut will not fit.
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