KELMO Posted March 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 According to the packaging on this part, I bought it in January......of 2009. The alternator brackets. The blue one is L16, and the black one is L18. Very similar but not quite the same. Neither bracket is threaded in the hole where the alternator ears mount. I found that odd compared to "A" motors. Mocked up some more parts. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 19, 2023 Report Share Posted March 19, 2023 L20B bottom, Z series top. Note the height difference. Quote Link to comment
iceman510 Posted March 20, 2023 Report Share Posted March 20, 2023 (edited) 10 hours ago, KELMO said: Neither bracket is threaded in the hole where the alternator ears mount. I found that odd compared to "A" motors. Seems like they should be, unless drilled through already. Edited March 20, 2023 by iceman510 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2023 ^^Thats what I thought. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 20, 2023 Report Share Posted March 20, 2023 I used to drill out the holes and use one long head bolts with a nut to secure the alternator to the bracket. So if yours don't have threads, that's probably what happened. 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 On 3/20/2023 at 10:19 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I used to drill out the holes and use one long head bolts with a nut to secure the alternator to the bracket. So if yours don't have threads, that's probably what happened. Quit drilling out my brackets bro.🤪 So, I think the Fuel sending unit is toast. The contact that moves over the wrapped wire as the float moves up and down snagged one of the wires and pulled it loose. I suppose I could just make sure I keep the tank half full (or half empty if you ask Missus Kelmo). This is the water bypass pipe that runs from the water outlet on the passenger side of the block to the intake manifold. I have no idea where this little "Y" connector goes. I took this pipe off of an L16. Guess I will sit down with the FSM and see if it learns me anything. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 12 minutes ago, KELMO said: This is the water bypass pipe that runs from the water outlet on the passenger side of the block to the intake manifold. I have no idea where this little "Y" connector goes. I took this pipe off of an L16. Guess I will sit down with the FSM and see if it learns me anything. As I recall, on an L16, it goes to a port in the intake, here: Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 Is that not the Y that connects to the outlet on the thermostat housing? I didnt think the l16s had them. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 (edited) On 3/20/2023 at 9:19 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I used to drill out the holes and use one long head bolts with a nut to secure the alternator to the bracket. So if yours don't have threads, that's probably what happened. L16s mounts ?Yes thats what happened the smaller bolts sear on lowered 510s Edited March 24, 2023 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 DF; that is at the other end of the pipe. I should have taken the pic from further back, but then you would not be able to see that little "Y" part. I think the baggins might have it figured out. I seem to remember one of the T/stat housings having a small connector coming out of it. Funny how the memory gets jogged. I also have several different lower housings with different amounts of holes. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 Two different housings..... One without. One with. I do have an old T/stat housing that has the nipple in it. 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2023 Get up yesterday to go run some errands and find this. No problem, I now have an excuse to drive the 411. Nope, not right now I don't. Ok, lets read up on the cooling system in the FSM. Cooling system, right in between EL section and EF section. Oh, this is special. I should not have 2 pages marked EM 6. Quite a few pages of misprint. I bought the FSM like late 80's or early 90's and have not had the need to use the cooling section until now. Missus Kelmo tells me that book must be worth a fortune being a misprint. My response; No babe, its useless because it doesn't have the information I need in it. I started drinking fairly early yesterday. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 Spelling and grammatical errors were common in the older Japanese manuals. My 320 parts manual has "R" where an L should be and vice versa. No kidding. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 Oh, I've seen that before. I once found a description of a trunk mat for a Z that said "fuck mat". I can't remember now if it was in the price book (yes, I said book) or in the catalog (microfiche or digital). There were some others that were interesting as well but that one I'll never forget. I said all that to say this; missing like 20 pages, oh for Pete's sake. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 2 hours ago, KELMO said: I said all that to say this; missing like 20 pages, oh for Pete's sake. Think maybe it's in the Haynes? Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 13 hours ago, datsunfreak said: Think maybe it's in the Haynes? More likely than not. I also think that it may be in almost all of the other 1973 1600 FSM's out there, just not mine. I am fairly certain I have another 510/1600 manual that is not a factory publication. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 28, 2023 Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 (edited) 9 hours ago, KELMO said: I am fairly certain I have another 510/1600 manual that is not a factory publication. I think I have at least 3 Haynes manuals for the 510, and no factory 510 manual... 😋 Edited March 28, 2023 by datsunfreak 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted April 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 I'll probably regret this but I did it anyway. Used high temp engine paint. I realize the intake should be bolts but the studs looked cool. As near as I can figure this looks like the right set up for a Weber. We were just going to mock it up in the bay but we had to futz with it a bit, so its in there. We did figure out that the easiest way to install is with the brackets attached to the block and the mounts attached to the brackets seemed to be the best way. 2 Quote Link to comment
sick620 Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 better than porn Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted April 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 Not gonna lie, I did touch myself a lil bit. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 On 3/27/2023 at 12:17 PM, KELMO said: Oh, I've seen that before. I once found a description of a trunk mat for a Z that said "fuck mat". Could be urban legend, but people in the music business refer to a piano manufacturer (unknown to me) that had a manual for assembling the piano bench. It said something like "turn bench on it's face, and fuck the legs in". Don't know how true that is, but I always get a chuckle out of it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 (edited) If the manifold paint goes south, check out a product called CALX. Datsunfreak turned me onto it when I was doing my wagon. It's a graphite paste that looks great, goes on with a brush, holds up well, and it's really inexpensive. Edit: It was sold by Eastwood, but I think it's gone. Other than an old video from Eastwood, it looks like it may be NLA. Found a few other graphite products that appear to do the same, though. Hopefully, the paint works. Edited April 1, 2023 by Duncan 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 9 hours ago, Duncan said: Could be urban legend, but people in the music business refer to a piano manufacturer (unknown to me) that had a manual for assembling the piano bench. It said something like "turn bench on it's face, and fuck the legs in". Don't know how true that is, but I always get a chuckle out of it. Maybe the original word was 'mate' the legs. Just poor translation. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 (edited) 12 hours ago, Duncan said: If the manifold paint goes south, check out a product called CALX. Datsunfreak turned me onto it when I was doing my wagon. It's a graphite paste that looks great, goes on with a brush, holds up well, and it's really inexpensive. Edit: It was sold by Eastwood, but I think it's gone. Other than an old video from Eastwood, it looks like it may be NLA. Found a few other graphite products that appear to do the same, though. Hopefully, the paint works. Calyx? You mean this stuff? - https://www.eastwood.com/calyx-manifold-coating-3-oz.html I've used anti-seize to coat exhaust manifolds before, but when it burned on, everyone in a five mile radius died. Edited April 1, 2023 by Stoffregen Motorsports 1 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Calyx? You mean this stuff? - https://www.eastwood.com/calyx-manifold-coating-3-oz.html I've used anti-seize to coat exhaust manifolds before, but when it burned on, everyone in a five mile radius died. That's the stuff, and no, it didn't have any (that I remember) smell after start up. Funny, I did a Google search and couldn't turn anything up yesterday. Today, it's all over the place including ebay... 1 1 Quote Link to comment
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