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bilzbobaggins

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About bilzbobaggins

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 06/01/1980

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Augusta, GA
  • Cars
    1970 521 1996 Hardbody 4x4
  • Interests
    This truck!!!!
  • Occupation
    barkeep!

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  1. So I reckon rock auto has the wrong idea then. I would email them this and let them know but not so sure it would be worth the digital postage. And thank you for looking that up. It makes me feel better knowing that they were all the same. Tension rod rubbers helped with the darting left under heavy braking. Still some there but not as bad as it was. Will relube the friction points on both sides of the backing plates this weekend. Might rebleed the brakes as well. Think the shoes are on correctly. Had this issue for a while.
  2. Got two bolts from stafford. Installed finally Everything else looks good.thanks for the help
  3. Yup. On the way to stafford now for bolts. I have the old spacers off the old set. Benzo and a cup of water broke them free. I will look at the idler arm when I get back
  4. Well shit balls. At full droop and with some steering input the sway bar hits the tie rods on both sides. Guess that’s why someone put the long ones on there
  5. I mostly post my thoughts here in daily randomness. I posted this here before I did research and started the thread in the 521 section. Yes they cleared. Were they working as well as running the short ones? Dunno, and prolly wont know as it will be just subjective guessing when I install the short ones tomorrow. Biggest thing I am curious about is why Nissan changed them. Assuming all measurements are the same on the 521 and 620 with relation to the swaybar and lower control arm, then there must be a benefit.
  6. Reminds me of a review of a harbor freight welder from some years back. He used fat girls to rate the welds.......
  7. For what its worth, for what you pay for 12 -16 fasteners at the parts stores here, you cant buy a large kit off ebay for the same price or even less. Last one I got had an assortment of 200??? They can be handy to have around for lots of auto projects.
  8. So, guess I need to throw one more jack in the mix here to measure, but I am guessing the right ones are better to run. Thanks for the info.
  9. Finally got around to doing my 521 tension rods and sway bar end links. Tension rod rubbers went in fine. I used the rubber out of two of these kits from rock. This is whats left of my sway bar end link bolt on the right. Its around 6 1/2 inches long. The kit came with these 4 1/2 inch bolts and small spacer to go between the upper inner and bottom inner rubber/washers. The one I took off had a long spacer (no pic). So I just did some Ratsun research and rock research. They list the kits I got as applicable for 65-70 520 and 521's. They show nothing for a 71 or 72 521. The 73 620 kit looks more like what I had on my truck, long spacer inbetween the rubber/washers and it tells me the bolt is 6 1/2 inches long. According to Ratsun, 521 and 620 drum brake trucks used the same sway bars. As everyone one knows as well as I that lots of shit gets swapped out over the years by folks, I am not surprised. I am guessing these had been on there for a while as it took several heat treatments to get the sleeve off the old bolt. Here are my questions. Are the 620 kit links better to run? Do they stiffen/preload (hard to guess the word I am thinking of) the sway bar for less body roll? Are they different because the lower control arm has the mounting point different?(dont think so, because you can run 620 drum shit on a 521 yes?) So, which kit should I run? My brain tells me the right one, my other brain tells me to put what was back on there. If it matters, I am running the front too low. And to add insult to injury, I had been really excited to do this inside my garage. I had access to the 2 post lift and the pad lift. Never occurred to me that I had to drive over a hump and down a ramp to get in the building. She wont go in at this height without several long 2x8 ramps. Looks like I will be picking some of these up off the side of the roads to make me a set.
  10. Not sure who to have beef with. On the right is one of my old sway bar link bolts. Top broke off when I went to loosen it, and the sleeve was rusted in place in the middle. Cut the bottom and applied a few heat treatments to get the sleeve off. And on the left, the bolt that came in my Centric 521 kit from rock. Juuuuussstttt a hair to short, like 1 3/4 to 2 inches short. I cant find another thread with someone saying they got the wrong kit. So, either rock sent the wrong kit, Centric plowed me or I have some bastardized setup already in place. Edit: I was sort of right. The truck had a 620 kit in it. So, the dreaded PO screwed me.
  11. It twas the pump. Just had shit luck with all the pumps. Got the air working and found a factory radio to slide back in. Off to the lot she goes.
  12. Not a Nissan obviously, but I am confused about a issue. My dad bought a 98 Tacoma 4wd with the 2.7. Power steering did not work. Reservoir was full of what appeared to be a chocolate shake. No fluid flow. He got me a pump off ebay to install. I cleaned the old res completely, nothing left on the screen. Flushed the system out with several quarts of Dextron 3 before I put it on. Went from nasty shit to looking like clean atf. Installed, bled and it talked like no tomorrow. No amount of bleeding seemed to help. But the power steering was there and worked great. In between fiddling with it and other projects, I took the old pump apart and noticed the vanes were stuck in place with the gunk. Cleaned the old pump out completely and reassembled and tried tossing it back on to see if it was just gummed up to shit. Sent ebay pump back. Nothing, no whine or fluid flow. Got a pump at the pull a part that looked oem and fairly clean. Same thing, no flow or whine. Got pissed and bought a new, not reman from the napa across the street. Has flow, but no power steering. Seems like a lot if I aim the return hose at a bucket and start it, makes a mess. I do not have a power steering pressure tester (the one fucking tool I dont see harbor freight having, but a tool I would buy from them as it would be seldom used). Pressure hose looks good, no leaks. Return looks good but I am going to replace the rubber part as its just trans hose. Rack is a bit moist, but no leaks under the truck when it sat for 3 days in the same spot. Not sure if I am having a shit go at pumps or if the rack just happened to go out after I took the ebay pump off (seems unlikely). Soooooooooo, basically I am looking for ideas. Just confuses me. Dont wanna throw anymore $$ at it. I know remans and aftermarket parts suck. I would appreciate any ideas. Thanks
  13. I know why your xterra sounds like a tractor sir. Along with the hole, it was cracked all over. Found quite a few folks claiming the first gen had bad castings.
  14. That cat can sure lay a bead.
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