datsunfreak Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 5 hours ago, KELMO said: There was what looked like an AC drain tube in this hole. Possibly made from a large caliber weapon from inside the cabin of the car. More gooder now. The guys who did the AC installs at the dealership sometimes got "crafty" to make those drain line holes. Sadly, this was very common. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 Dealer tech under the dash with his cordless hole punch. 1 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 22, 2022 Report Share Posted December 22, 2022 16 hours ago, Skib said: Dealer tech under the dash with his cordless hole punch. Imagine you're three stalls down from this guy doing a brake job and you hear "FIRE IN THE HOLE!"... 😄 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2022 20 hours ago, thisismatt said: That entire spot welded on keystone shaped panel is the cowl drain. It wraps around a bit to the underside. After I took off the upper cowl part, I was able to somewhat see it on the firewall side. I'll take a look next time up on stands at the underside. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2022 17 hours ago, datsunfreak said: The guys who did the AC installs at the dealership sometimes got "crafty" to make those drain line holes. Sadly, this was very common. Bro, there was no "craft" involved in that part of the install.🤣 1 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2022 280ZX strut bottom, 510 strut top (without spring) Some suspension bits. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 22, 2022 Report Share Posted December 22, 2022 I think the zx strut is 1.75" shorter than the 510, although I believe there were some differences in 510 strut length also. Do you know if the zx strut still has the oil bath dampers? Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 I haven't pulled the guts out of it yet, just took the nut off for a quick peek and I think it does. I'll find out later today or tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 Also pulled the hubs off. 510. 280ZX Something I found interesting was that the nut on both spindles was only finger tight. That does not seem to be correct to me. If it is, I may need to relook at the 1200's. It has been a while since I have done any work like this, and it seems the process was torque to X lbs and back off a 1/4 turn maybe. Could be it is time to go read some books. Yes, I said it, I have books. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 Yeah, that's something I struggle with too. Naturally, I feel that a wheel bearing should have some preload, but if going to the next notch in the castle nut means too much preload, then it's best to go back a notch, even if this means having zero preload. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 24, 2022 Report Share Posted December 24, 2022 This seems to be universal for most Datsun hubs. The 510, 1200 and very early 610s use different smaller outer wheel bearings that might be different. This is based on the later. Tighten nut 18-22 ft lbs. Spin several turns in both directions to seat, check or re-torque 18-22 ft lbs. Loosen nut 60 degrees, (1/3 of a half turn) Install the adjusting cap so that cotter pin can be installed. (use a spring scale on one of the lugs to measure starting torque to turn spindle.... new parts 118 in oz. old parts 3.3 pounds or less. I've never done this as long as the hub turns freely and smoothly) Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 24, 2022 Report Share Posted December 24, 2022 I use a manual fish scale for checking bearing preload, but it's pretty subjective as there is a breakaway moment that you need to be prepared for. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2022 On 12/5/2022 at 7:46 AM, datzenmike said: L series... Note that the center line rib is closest to the left side mounting bolt LEFT is for L series Well. I finally pulled the transmissions out from hiding. From DM's statement and pic, it appears I have the proper 5 speed for an L motor. The dirty one is the 4 speed for an L series. Had to dig out 4 to get to the 5 speed. And there is still another 4 speed back there. 2 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2022 From the bottom of the strut to the top of the "casing": 280ZX 16 1/2" (+/-) 510 18 1/4" (+/-) It also seems there is a collar on the 510 spindle whereas on the 280ZX spindle it appears to be part of the casting. IIRC, the 620 or 720 front spindle had a collar as well and it always came off with the hub/bearings. People would always tell us we got them the wrong parts until we pointed out what the set up was. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 25, 2022 Report Share Posted December 25, 2022 Probably to do with the smaller outer wheel bearing. The 510 wheel bearings were used through '73 on the 610, '74 on the B-210 and strangely all 210s. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 25, 2022 Report Share Posted December 25, 2022 Is that a 60 series 5 speed? I need one for a project. I'm actually going to run Datsun power in my '65 Sprite. The built 1275 motor in there now is getting pulled to use as a mule motor for my dad's race car, and a friend gave me a "built" A14, so I guess I'll give it a shot. Kinda goes against my grain, but what the hell. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 25, 2022 Report Share Posted December 25, 2022 Front to back L series 71B 5 speed, '79 or older. 63 series 4 speed for L series engine, '68-'79. The rest are too far away to be certain. Next two look rather thin so 56 series (they has the ribs) 4 or 5 speed really can't tell from here. Clutch arm would be above the starter bulge. Last one looks like a 63a dogleg. They were smooth case. 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2022 14 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Is that a 60 series 5 speed? I need one for a project. 13 hours ago, datzenmike said: Last one looks like a 63a dogleg. They were smooth case. Yes, it is a 60 series transmission for an "A" motor. No, it is a 4 speed that I did not inspect close enough before I brought it home. 2 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2022 Engine bay stuff. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 27, 2022 Report Share Posted December 27, 2022 Nice. Do you think it will match? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 27, 2022 Report Share Posted December 27, 2022 4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Nice. Do you think it will match? The color shouldn't be too tough to match since it's a fairly modern color/paint code, and it's not like this car has ever seen the sun since it was painted... 😁 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2022 No, it will not match. We are doing something completely different. Well, unless we completely hate what we did different. Yes, it has seen the sun. When I brought it home from your place, when I moved out of ABQ, when I moved into this place. I have even washed it like twice, I think. So there ppppfffftt.🤪 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 28, 2022 Report Share Posted December 28, 2022 (edited) Do you know the paint code? My notes on the car say it's "2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser, Electric Blue Pearl, code PB5". Just in case... 😉 Edited December 28, 2022 by datsunfreak Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2022 Appreciate the paint code, but... Some people are gonna hate me for that, but I don't care. 3 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 29, 2022 Report Share Posted December 29, 2022 1 hour ago, KELMO said: Appreciate the paint code, but... Some people are gonna hate me for that, but I don't care. Well, the firewall was already black anyway... 😁 I like it, but would probably also suggest just finishing it off and making the whole thing black? Or maybe just the front half of the wheel wells so it's blue on top, black on bottom? Quote Link to comment
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