So, I bought this goon ..........

[KELMO]

So, as we move forward (as slowly as possible), a couple questions arise.

 

What Brake Master cylinder do we use?

280ZX brakes front, 200SX (S110) rear disc.

 

What clutch master?

280ZX 5spd, L18 Motor

 

I have an OEM oil pan gasket. Do I use a wee bead of silicon on the pan surface and block surface or be a baller and use the gasket.

 

I have my own opinions for these questions, just looking for a general consensus.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

1 hour ago, KELMO said:

So, as we move forward (as slowly as possible), a couple questions arise.

 

What Brake Master cylinder do we use?

280ZX brakes front, 200SX (S110) rear disc.

 

What clutch master?

280ZX 5spd, L18 Motor

 

I have an OEM oil pan gasket. Do I use a wee bead of silicon on the pan surface and block surface or be a baller and use the gasket.

 

I have my own opinions for these questions, just looking for a general consensus.

 

280ZX brake master

 

Any clutch master

 

Most OEMs now don't even use gaskets. On an oil pan, I feel that using an old style gasket is just asking for leaks. I ditch them altogether and use The Right Stuff RTV.

 

[KELMO]

24 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

280ZX brake master

 

Any clutch master

 

Most OEMs now don't even use gaskets. On an oil pan, I feel that using an old style gasket is just asking for leaks. I ditch them altogether and use The Right Stuff RTV.

 

280ZX was my thought.

 

Clutch master I was thinking 510.

 

Most of the OEMs now are machined a little better. I am fairly certain it was you that said "Datsuns don't leak, they mark their territory". I have a considerable investment in drip pans. Each car gets a minimum of 2 to keep the floor clean. My thought was a wee bit of RTV on the block and pan. If it leaks, well, I would be surprised if it didn't. Plus, before I got hosed at my last job, I picked up a couple OEM gaskets.

 

Edit: My mistake, Datsunfreak made the quote about Datsuns don't leak....

Edited March 12, 2023 by KELMO

[Duncan]

I'm no brake wiz at all, but I might look to see if they offered a 280ZX with 4 wheel discs.  If not, the the disc/drum type, but do a search on Ratsun for "residual pressure valves". It's been posted here many times, and it's explained better than I can.

 

I put a 280zx master cylinder on my wagon with a B110 brake booster, and it was buttah.

 

The 510 clutch master and slave worked fine on my wagon, as well.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 12, 2023 by Duncan

[datzenmike]

If you don't have a booster a 15/16" zx master will be like stepping on a brick. You need the help of a booster.

 

All 280zx were rear disc brake so the 280zx master has the correct residual valves already for your 200sx rear discs.

[KELMO]

Regular Z is rotors, ZX is pads from the info I have. Talking about the rear.

 

Where in the French Toast did you find a booster for a B110? Ain't never seen that. B210 maybe? Got me one of those around here somewhere.

 

[KELMO]

Also, just in case nobody knew... an L18 block uses 10mm O.D. bolts for the alternator mount bracket. An L16 uses an 8mm bolt for the alternator bracket.

I just learned this.

 

I also just learned that I do not have the bolt that mounts the alternator to the bracket.

 

Frickinfrackinchickenshackindingdongdangit.

 

Or, more to the point, Fiddlesticks.

[slowlearner]

8 hours ago, KELMO said:

Also, just in case nobody knew... an L18 block uses 10mm O.D. bolts for the alternator mount bracket. An L16 uses an 8mm bolt for the alternator bracket.

I just learned this.

 

I also just learned that I do not have the bolt that mounts the alternator to the bracket.

 

Frickinfrackinchickenshackindingdongdangit.

 

Or, more to the point, Fiddlesticks.

 

I gather you're complaining about a lack of metric bolts. Go your local junk yard and lift them from a Subaru. 

[thisismatt]

ZX are all disc, but changed rear caliper types early/mid run.  ZX masters are getting hard to find. The wildwood 1" master might be a good/best option, ala

 

https://zcardepot.com/collections/master-cylinder/products/brake-master-cylinder-1-wilwood-240z-260z-280z

[Duncan]

14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

All 280zx were rear disc brake so the 280zx master has the correct residual valves already for your 200sx rear discs.

 

Funny, it's been so long, and I have done many cars over the years.  I remember changing the springs, but my memory was a bit fuzzy.

 

I knew someone would pop up and have the appropriate info.

 

 

[Duncan]

14 hours ago, KELMO said:

Where in the French Toast did you find a booster for a B110? Ain't never seen that. B210 maybe? Got me one of those around here somewhere.

 

Again, my fuzzy memory fails me again, but I think you're correct about the booster coming from from a B210. 

 

The booster unit went out on my wagon, and it was not hard to find a replacement.  The hard piece to find is the aluminum rectangular spacer that goes between the firewall and the booster..

 

If you have the unit, it is well worth adding.  I've driven a few 510's with ZX masters, and the brake pedal is like pushing a concrete wall..   Not real sure how it works on a LHD 510, though.

 

I like French Toast and bacon. 

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

17 hours ago, KELMO said:

Most of the OEMs now are machined a little better. I am fairly certain it was you that said "Datsuns don't leak, they mark their territory". I have a considerable investment in drip pans. Each car gets a minimum of 2 to keep the floor clean. My thought was a wee bit of RTV on the block and pan. If it leaks, well, I would be surprised if it didn't. Plus, before I got hosed at my last job, I picked up a couple OEM gaskets.

 

Edit: My mistake, Datsunfreak made the quote about Datsuns don't leak....

Yeah, wasn't me, but I like it.

 

If you insist on using a gasket, use the RTV on the pan, but nothing on the block. The RTV on the pan side helps with the bumps and curves of the pan. For that matter, be sure to tap the pan rails flat before you install it and get the oil pan bolt strengthening ribs or whatever you call them. I think Ermish sells new stainless ones.

[datzenmike]

The L20B comes with an L shaped strap that fits on one rear corner of the oil pan. I cut up a second one to finish around the rear and up the other side.

 

Over tightening the bolts will deform the pan upwards around the holes. I used two hammers and tapped them down flat 

[KELMO]

This engine actually has one of those "L" brackets on it currently.

[datzenmike]

Yeah only one side has it.

 

A search of the use of that part shows '72 and on, on the 510, and all L series 4 cylinder engines after that. Not used on the 521 L16 which ended production in early '72. Must have been a problem Nissan addressed. 

[datsunfreak]

On 3/11/2023 at 8:02 PM, KELMO said:

Also, just in case nobody knew... an L18 block uses 10mm O.D. bolts for the alternator mount bracket. An L16 uses an 8mm bolt for the alternator bracket.

I just learned this.

 

One thing I learned the hard way was if you use an alternator that is heavier than the stock one, it likes to break off those 8mm bolts in the block. 😋

 

On 3/11/2023 at 5:00 PM, KELMO said:

What Brake Master cylinder do we use?280ZX brakes front, 200SX (S110) rear disc.

 

FWIW, I have had good luck with a 7/8 from a 240Z.

 

Quote

I have an OEM oil pan gasket. Do I use a wee bead of silicon on the pan surface and block surface or be a baller and use the gasket.

 

Again, good success personally using a cork gasket and wiping it down/soaking it with wheel bearing grease. Makes it come off easy if you have to remove the pan later, and seems to keep them from leaking. 

[Z23T]

I'm going to agree with Mike on the 7/8 master cylinder if you aren't using a booster. The 280ZX M/C is 15/16 bore and when I tried one with no booster the pedal was way to firm. I switched to the 280Z 7/8 bore and the pedal feel was perfect for me.

[KELMO]

This page needs more pics. Or at least a couple.

 

This is the pile of crap that came out of the cowl drain.

 

A couple better shots of it on the ground.

[datzenmike]

Even the stock alternator will eat those 8mm bolts, I had it happen. in the '70s on my 521. A friend mad a bracket and moved it to the other side below the distributor. The problem is two fold... the bolts were small 8mm and there was only two. This made it unstable on an axis drawn through the center line of the two bolts. Just like a two legged stool. This is why the L20B and maybe the L18 went to three bolts. A tripod is the most stable stool.

 

 That's that center drain? The one no one knows is there??? and is always crushed.

 

 

[KELMO]

5 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

That's that center drain? The one no one knows is there??? and is always crushed.

Yes, that is the one. I would not have known about it if someone hadn't pointed it out earlier in this thread. I spent more time cleaning that out than I would have thought. Crap just kept coming out of it.

 

As far as the Alt bracket, I'll have to get some pics of it.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Crushed or rotted out.

[KELMO]

23 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Crushed or rotted out.

This one was neither.

 

While I was looking for some clevis pins, I found these.

 

Also, gotta love when you have to fix brand new shit.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I have scoured the web for good quality factory type wire holders and everything out there is junk. Like the plastic that holds together the pieces for plastic models, junk. I wish aftermarket companies would realize that guys will buy good quality stuff, if they made it.

[KELMO]

I honestly cannot remember when I acquired those, or where. It is possible that back in the late 80's when I had 510's was when I got them.

[datzenmike]

4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I have scoured the web for good quality factory type wire holders and everything out there is junk. Like the plastic that holds together the pieces for plastic models, junk. I wish aftermarket companies would realize that guys will buy good quality stuff, if they made it.

 

Go to the wrecking yard for factory stuff.