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About slowlearner

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    Sydney, Australia
  • Cars
    Wif wheels an stuff
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    Cars an stuff
  • Occupation
    Church pastor

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  1. Cool! Love your work. Can't wait to see what comes next.
  2. Another update, as I mentioned the car hasn't been running right. Now I know why. My neighbor and race boat guru, Tony diagnosed the carburettor as the problem. Its a stock Hitachi that came on the L18 in the 180B/610. It has two issues. 1. The idle circuit is not working at all. The idle mixture screw makes no real difference to the car. We pulled it out and sprayed carb cleaner in there and it made no difference. It's only running on the mains circuit. 2. It's running PIG RICH. Like, you have to choke the carb with your hand to get it to start. Tony thinks the main emulsion tube may have an issue too. I cleaned it out when I did some work on the carb before, but it doesn't seem to be helping. I really need a proper diagram of the carb, but I don't want to buy a whole 610 service manual just to get it. Can someone send me a link?
  3. I have wondered if they've been the victims of their own success. Too many paying jobs to get Binky finished. πŸ˜‰
  4. Another update. I managed to get the car out yesterday and drive it down the driveway. It died at the bottom and refused to restart until I put some more fuel in it. Weird. Anyway, I have managed to do a few things. 1. Turned it around and got it nose first into the garage. 2. Hosed all the dirt (lots and lots) off the underside and the engine bay. 3. Get the idle right. 4. Adjust the back brakes up, although I think they could do with more. 5. Drain the radiator (eww), flush it and refill it. Unfortunately, I've also ascertained the brake booster is cactus. I'm hoping I can get it out and replace/rebuild it without pulling the whole brake system apart and needing to bleed it again. I'm kinda caught now. I could pull it apart and throw the new motor in. I'm not sure. I have to move in two months and ideally I want to be able to drive it to the new house. Not sure what to do. I guess I'll do what I do best. Procrastinate more.
  5. Please don't weld like he does. I know he doesn't care, but every time he thinks about welding a pigeon get's nervous. #birdcrap
  6. 13B, rx7 5 speed and a welded diff. You know you wanna 🀩
  7. A bit of an update. Having got the car out of the garage last week, I've had constant issues with brake fluid leaking from the front callipers. I was having to hang off the spanner to get them anywhere near sealing and even then they were seeping fluid every time I pumped the pedal. I tried all manner of fixes. None worked. In the end, I called the brake shop that reconditioned them. They put me through to the tech who rebuilt them, but the basic story was this. They didn't re-seat/machine the sealing surfaces where the bleeder nipples seal. Nor did they pressure test the callipers after the rebuild. 😑 Sure, the callipers were in rough condition. Both bleeder nipples were hard to get out. Apparently one was broken (although I didn't notice that when I dropped them off) and the other was super stiff. The point is, cleaning up the sealing the surface and testing them is basic and he just didn't do it. Really not impressed. The tech described his mistake as, 'a bad learning curve'. He didn't actually apologize either. He was obviously embarrassed and I wonder if his boss made him call me back and admit it. The good new is the callipers are back in the shop being fixed properly this time, at no extra cost to me (already spent $200 on them). The bad news is, the car is up on jack stands again waiting for someone to do their job properly. ☹️ I'm also having issues with the carb. For some reason, it's not starting (without starting fluid). Then it doesn't want to idle once warmed up. I guess there's still junk there somewhere. Did I tell you how much I hate carbs?
  8. Can't comment specifically on the 200sx ECU, but most prime the fuel system on start up for a second or two. Then when you actually kick it over they'll keep running. Are you getting spark?
  9. Goes to 3 shops looking for copper washers. Gets cranky with three different shop assistants. Comes home and find a whole bag of them in his toolbox drawer. πŸ˜”#oldfool
  10. Managed to steal an hour two last night and this morning to work on Nana. The master cylinder bled up ok last night and then the rest of the bleed went without issue... or so I thought. So this morning I moved everything out of the way and tried to start the car. Obviously the car had other plans. Didn't want to start, then once it was warm, it didn't want to idle. I did manage this though... Straight away, two leaks became obvious. 1. Water pump, which I already knew about. 2. Both front calipers. Which should have been obvious because the pedal was rubbish. The hand (park) brake also wasn't at it's best. So here was me trying to drive a car that wouldn't run, wouldn't stop... you get the point. The plan was to drive it out onto the road and then turn it around for a quick wash and get ready for putting the race motor in. Hmm, not today. Having looked at my other callipers, I now realize I should have had copper washer between the soft line and caliper. Stupid, old man, again. Hopefully I can duck out to the parts shop after a memorial service I'm conducting this afternoon. Fun time! 😞
  11. I wish I had more to report today, but werl… I spent most of the day with my wife and daughter going to and from a 15min medical appointment. In retrospect, I think my wife wishes she'd left me at home. I'm philosophical. My daughter has had a major eye infection the last two weeks and seeing the specialist was really a privilege. Three hours of traffic and an hour waiting not so much. Anyhow, I managed to get some calliper bolts off my Datsun guru on Sunday. Went to put them on today and of course, they were too long. I destroyed my last hacksaw blade shortening the first one. So a trip to the hardware store was needed before anything else was done. Having got them all the right length and beginning installation, I found a major issue. The bottom of the calliper was fouling on the three of the tie rod end. After scratching my head for a while I realized why. They were on the wrong side. I guess this is another 'I'm new to datsuns' moment. Anyway, after playing musical struts, I had everything back in. I gotta say, I much prefer this to the VW front end. πŸ™‚ Of course that wasn't the end of it. Seems I have other things to learn. i was trying to bleed to system and the master cylinder wasn't playing ball. The front circuit would bleed, but not the rear. Apparently I should have 'bench' bled it (but I don't believe in that). So I need to get that sorted before I can FINALLY DRIVE THE DAMN THING OUT OF THE GARAGE! 🀬 Anyway, that's enough temper tantrums from me. Old fool that I am.
  12. One of the guys from my car club runs a 4wd/rally channel on Youtube. Thought you might enjoy this vid. It's full of 510s, a 610 and a Violet (stanza). Dattos are still very popular club rally cars over here. You should subscribe. A lot of his classic rally vids have datsuns in them.
  13. Back out in the shed for a short while this afternoon. Got the driver side brake drum done so both are ready for bleeding now. Yay! πŸ˜ƒ Have to say, I don't understand that whole ridiculous 'lock plate' system. Why couldn't they just have a double acting slave like everyone else. It would have more than halved my install time. Groan. Anyway, that's done now. So hopefully I won't have to rebuilt it any time soon. Having done that, I was all ready to install the front calipers when I discovered something... No caliper bolts... πŸ˜– I really don't understand what happened to them. I suspect I handed them over, attached to the struts when I swapped them. Worse than that, the 510 bolts were too short and three different stores couldn't help me. Datsun has to spec the nuts M12x1.25, the rarest thread in the world. This all happened at 4:45pm of course. So yeah, you could say I was more than a little grumpy. The car is SOOO close to moving under it's own power. 😞
  14. I've got a 69 510. It's a dry, country car and amazingly rust free aside from one spot under the fuse box and a little bit on the frame rail. The rear quarters, doors, etc have very, very little in the way of rust. A few tiny bubbles, but much of it is just surface rust and gravel rash. What I want to do is treat it somehow to prevent it from spreading as much as possible. The car has very thin, original paint, but it's just getting a generous coat of wax. I'm avoiding panel work. So what can I spray inside the door bottoms and rear quarters to arrest what rust is in there now? Penetrating oil (like INOX)? Cavity wax? Other ideas?
  15. Well, this afternoon I signed some papers that will pretty much obliterate the datto budget for the next little while. Lucky I bought all the expensive things before that happened. Of course my wife wants the car driving in the next 3 months. It's doable, but maybe not on $0. This oughta be interesting... πŸ™„
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