So, I bought this goon ..........

[KELMO]

1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Well, the firewall was already black anyway...  😁

 

I like it, but would probably also suggest just finishing it off and making the whole thing black? Or maybe just the front half of the wheel wells so it's blue on top, black on bottom? 

Nope, not gonna do it.

 

What brought me to do this was a leaking brake M/C that pealed a good portion of the paint on the firewall and left frame rail. Additionally, the paint on the back half of the wheel wells were a little jacked on both sides.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I paint engine bays tool grey. This is a race car thing going back to the 1930s. Racers didn't know what color the car would be after the sponsors got ahold of it, so the entire car was painted in grey first. This made changes in sponsorship easy.

[datsunfreak]

58 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I paint engine bays tool grey. This is a race car thing going back to the 1930s. Racers didn't know what color the car would be after the sponsors got ahold of it, so the entire car was painted in grey first. This made changes in sponsorship easy.

 

Funny, I was always told this was to make it easier to spot leaks? Every race car builder I know paints them gray and that was the reason they always told me...  😄

 

Seems to have been a fad with the Oregon guys for a long time too...

 

Edited December 29, 2022 by datsunfreak

[datsunfreak]

2 hours ago, KELMO said:

Additionally, the paint on the back half of the wheel wells were a little jacked on both sides.

 

Yeah, the painter didn't remove enough stuff when the engine bay was painted, and just taped around stuff. 🙄 

 

The car was originally Cactus Green with a dark green vinyl top. I tried to get the guy I was building it for to keep that combo, but he was building a "show car", so...

Edited December 29, 2022 by datsunfreak

[KELMO]

8 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Yeah, the painter didn't remove enough stuff when the engine bay was painted, and just taped around stuff. 🙄 

 

The car was originally Cactus Green with a dark green vinyl top. I tried to get the guy I was building it for to keep that combo, but he was building a "show car", so...

The painter part is an understatement. Jeebus.

Part of the vinyl top parts are still on the car, mostly the retainers on the "D" pillar.

The guy you were building it for probably didn't understand the concept of a "show car".

 

I ain't bitching, I love this thing and just want to finally get it on the road. Ain't gonna be a show car and ain't gonna be all Tanker status but it should be nice...from my point of view anyway. This won't be a show car, but I will show it.

[datsunfreak]

10 hours ago, KELMO said:

This won't be a show car, but I will show it.

 

[KELMO]

On 12/22/2022 at 7:31 AM, datzenmike said:

I think the zx strut is 1.75" shorter than the 510, although I believe there were some differences in 510 strut length also. Do you know if the zx strut still has the oil bath dampers?

Had to open up the struts for other purposes and no, both sets have replacement inserts.

 

On another note, I have the GTX2 LCA kit from T3 and it turns out the steering arm/knuckle (whatever its called) has the small diameter hole for the ball joint stem to go through and I had forgotten that there were 2 different sizes. I have 2 other 510 strut sets and am hoping the ones I need are on the struts that are on the wagon and not seriously installed. Otherwise, I will have to dig out the 4 door from the back of the shop and hope for the best.

[datsunfreak]

36 minutes ago, KELMO said:

On another note, I have the GTX2 LCA kit from T3 and it turns out the steering arm/knuckle (whatever its called) has the small diameter hole for the ball joint stem to go through and I had forgotten that there were 2 different sizes

 

Does the T3 kit use a tapered fit or just a straight bolt through it?

 

Edit: Never mind, I was thinking steering knuckle not ball joint... 🙃

Edited January 4, 2023 by datsunfreak
I am a dumbass

[KELMO]

Just some randomness....

The 2 different steering knuckles for the 510. And yes, I did have to take apart the 4DR. The one on the left has the larger diameter hole for the ball joint pin. The curious part about that is the # stamped in it, H2541 which makes me think 1200, B210, 210. The # stamped on the other ones was 23041 which I would attribute to a 510.

 

 

 

[datsunfreak]

1 hour ago, KELMO said:

The one on the left has the larger diameter hole for the ball joint pin. The curious part about that is the # stamped in it, H2541 which makes me think 1200, B210, 210. The # stamped on the other ones was 23041 which I would attribute to a 510.

 

FWIW, the B210 and 210 (B310) use the bigger ball joint also. In fact, the B210 front suspension is almost identical to the 510. So, maybe?

[KELMO]

There is a '79 210 out there but I've had enough of removing (ok, burning and pounding to death) ball joints and tie rod ends for the time being. I may suggest to T3 that the GTX2 lower control arm kit mention needing the larger ball joint in their product description.

At some point I will remove the front suspension from the 210, but not just yet. I did take a quick look at the steering knuckle on it, and it seemed a bit different than what I was looking for at the time.

The wagon is a '71 and had the smaller ball joints. The 4DR is a 72 and had the larger ones. My quick reference book only shows one part # for ball joints on a 510.

[datzenmike]

Later 510 knuckle L&R H2501 Probably a natural progression to a larger ball joint, same as the front wheel bearing. The latest 510 ball joint is the same part number as the B-210 40160-A8600

 

B-210 L&R knuckle U0101 Not the same part number ass the 510.

 

210 knuckle W5000 

[datsunfreak]

44 minutes ago, KELMO said:

My quick reference book only shows one part # for ball joints on a 510.

 

Yeah, this is a common problem in 510 world. 😁

 

Often the early smaller joints are difficult/impossible to find. Most people switch to the later steering knuckles on the early cars. This is really something you needed to do anyway for the long term health of the car.

 

45 minutes ago, KELMO said:

There is a '79 210 out there but I've had enough of removing (ok, burning and pounding to death) ball joints and tie rod ends for the time being.

At some point I will remove the front suspension from the 210, but not just yet. I did take a quick look at the steering knuckle on it, and it seemed a bit different than what I was looking for at the time.

 

They make great donors for a 1200, which I assume you already knew. T/C rods, LCAs, tie rods, and steering knuckles from it are what you need to do a strut/brake upgrade on a 1200, while also simultaneously upgrading all of the joints to beefier stuff.

 

You can even use the 210 struts, but it's a lateral move (brakes wise) on a 1200. It just gets you into brakes that are slightly easier to find parts for. 

[KELMO]

10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The latest 510 ball joint is the same part number as the B-210 40160-A8600

IIRC, that is the # that was in the quick ref guide that I, um, acquired at some point from a place of employ.

Damn, I miss my catalog.

9 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

Often the early smaller joints are difficult/impossible to find. Most people switch to the later steering knuckles on the early cars. This is really something you needed to do anyway for the long term health of the car.

It is also something I needed to do to make the T3 GTX2 LCA kit work. Now I just need to find another set for the 4DR I just robbed from.

Impossible to find? Ha, I got 2 sets (slightly destroyed but still got 2).

 

9 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

They make great donors for a 1200, which I assume you already knew. T/C rods, LCAs, tie rods, and steering knuckles from it are what you need to do a strut/brake upgrade on a 1200, while also simultaneously upgrading all of the joints to beefier stuff.

I was fairly certain about this which is why the 210 remains here instead of the scrap yard.

And no, it is not worth saving.

[datzenmike]

510 steering knuckle RH (LH similar)

 

-07 '70................ 40052-21003.......................... 40160-21000 ball joint (small)

08 '70- 02 '71.... 40052-A8600.......................... 40160-A8600 ball joint large, same as the B-210/710/610

03 '71-............... 40052-H2500 and H2501

[KELMO]

Some stuff happened in the shop today.

All of this is just mocked up and hand tightened. Once the coil over kit arrives and that is assembled, we will do some adjustments as needed.

 

Edit: Um, forgot to resize them pics bro.

Edited January 11, 2023 by KELMO

[KELMO]

Seriously hope I have another 510 engine harness around here somewhere.

 

[Duncan]

On 1/10/2023 at 6:32 PM, KELMO said:

Some stuff happened in the shop today.

Now THAT is some fancy-assed stuff!

 

Nice!

 

 

[KELMO]

Laid in the engine harness so I can start to figure out what bits I am missing.

This ought to be fun.

 

[KELMO]

After dinking around with the harness I had, I found the one that came out of this car. Here we go again.

More T3 stuff showed up.

Then problems started to arise. The replacement insert is about 40 mm shorter that what came out of the ZX strut housing. The replacement insert is about 1 mm larger in O.D. and does not want to go into the ZX strut housing. It seems to me that the replacement inset would move up and down inside the strut housing. Shouldn't the gland nut touch the top of the insert? Have emailed T3 with questions and they requested pics and also suggested I may need to put some washers inside the bottom of the strut housing (wait, what?).

Also, just cuz I wanted to see what it looked like.

[KELMO]

One other item. I ordered a radiator through Amazon, Champion cooling 2 row for $195.00 + shipping.

Missus Kelmo comes home last night and asks if I had returned anything to Amazon. Well, no. Go in and look at the order and it shows a refund and shipping has been cancelled. Go back and look again and they show 3 in stock but the price is now $249.00. Needless to say, I'm a little put out.

Not sure if I will go back and order at the higher price or try another vendor.

[datsunfreak]

2 hours ago, KELMO said:

The replacement insert is about 1 mm larger in O.D. and does not want to go into the ZX strut housing.

 

This is bad. 

 

2 hours ago, KELMO said:

It seems to me that the replacement inset would move up and down inside the strut housing. Shouldn't the gland nut touch the top of the insert? 

 

It should be touching, yes. The nut should never bottom out on the tube. It's fairly common to put a spacer in the bottom though. I have done this a few times because the shorter stroke shock suited my needs better.

 

For max low, you could always remove a bit from the strut tube? This would make it ride much better when lowered. And I'd bet T3 does this (or recommends this to be done) often. 

[datsunfreak]

2 hours ago, KELMO said:

One other item. I ordered a radiator through Amazon, Champion cooling 2 row for $195.00 + shipping.

Missus Kelmo comes home last night and asks if I had returned anything to Amazon. Well, no. Go in and look at the order and it shows a refund and shipping has been cancelled. Go back and look again and they show 3 in stock but the price is now $249.00. Needless to say, I'm a little put out.

Not sure if I will go back and order at the higher price or try another vendor.

 

This has happened to me twice in the last year. Kinda pissed that Amazon keeps letting it happen, to be honest...

[datsunfreak]

2 hours ago, KELMO said:

Have emailed T3 with questions and they requested pics and also suggested I may need to put some washers inside the bottom of the strut housing (wait, what?).

 

Also, not washers. Ever.

 

Use a piece of thick wall pipe that the OD of it is close to the ID of the tube. 👍

[KELMO]

Moving along...slowly and with a bit of frustration.